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6 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

Yeah, that's a good direction too.  Are you going to be running the simensays hex hub compatible wheels and repo tires to go with them?  It can be a bit costly but it's all worth it, imho.  The nicherotors 4WD SWB WW2 is definitely one of a kind and very cool.  It drives considerably better than my GF01 version WW2 too.. however it does come at a cost.  :lol:

Yes, I had just edited my post above to reference the tyres and hex hubs. I’ve also purchased an m38 repro grill, windshield and brackets.

I was really tempted by the Niche rotors chassis but it felt a bit OTT for my needs

I’m still tempted by his HCT chassis too but I’ve put o e together recently and think I might try and mount another on an MF01x chassis. 

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15 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

That's the whole point of me trying a 550 here, I need the torque and cooling fan as I run it on a punishing surface that kills 540 motors. With the extra torque of the 550, I can use the larger pinion to make up for the lower speed. Turn for turn, 550 is slower than a 540 but the torque and gearing make up for the lost of speed. 

My TT-02B Blitzer Beetle may need a 550.   Added weight from hard shell and larger tires may over-stress the upgraded 540.  Something to think about 🤔

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2 hours ago, Frankster said:

My TT-02B Blitzer Beetle may need a 550.   Added weight from hard shell and larger tires may over-stress the upgraded 540.  Something to think about 🤔

You may need to "downgrade" the 540. In my TT-01(Ra), I burnt out a 23T, a 27T still ran rather hot, but when I put in a 45T, it ran very happily on that hash surface, although slow. I am planning to get a 35T or 30T sometime. 

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Today I started on my Ansmann X2 custom Beetle build. I forgot how nice the Ansmann kits were to build. Shame they are no longer making them. Carbon reinforced plastics feel really nice and lots of little anodised green components are a nice touch. Terrible instructions compared to Tamiya though! 
 

Indian takeaway tubs proving invaluable on this build. 

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On 9/9/2022 at 7:31 PM, Mark_McQ said:

Had some of my wheel designs printed in resin to test. I want to start selling them but it takes about 4-6 hours to print a single wheel using FDM and I can't see anyone wanting to pay £150 a set, so if these prove as robust as my previous prints I can pick up a resin printer.

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These look awesome. I’d love some OZ, Momo, Dymag style wheels in 2.2” but at £150 a set… Be interested to see what the resin cost is 🙂

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Morning run with the M05 mainly today... Full stock it is pretty deceptive: direction is impredictable.

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Two washers on top of the ball bearings on the ackerman and it's a fully different chassis, much more predictable... And it is much more precise than the M06, and while I think shocks could eventually improve the M06, I'm not even sure it is required on the M05...

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4 hours ago, Frankster said:

My TT-02B Blitzer Beetle may need a 550.   Added weight from hard shell and larger tires may over-stress the upgraded 540.  Something to think about 🤔

Are you already running brushless?  If not, those are conditions brushless shines in as it has a lot more torque and efficiency over brushed.. 

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Today ive taken the torque tuned motor out of the Blitzed DT03, holding it in my hand and giving it throttle it wants to move way less than a silver can so i conclude its busted, beyond sounding really bad.

Ive also designed a printed a holder to attach my phone to a tripod so i can try laptrax without having to mess around with getting the phone into a good place, balanced on something else.

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Just got back in from the drive.

The phone holder for the tripod worked very well, sadly laptrax colortrack didnt play nice since the cones i have are also yellow, i guess im gonna have to make a marker in some fluorescent color for the car for more reliability, the motion tracking mode worked for a couple of laps but would always start registering erroneously after a couple of minutes.

The Blitzer drives well with the silver can, dont really notice much difference from when the Torque Tuned was working but the silver can also got quite hot, i did not push it as hard however.

Do brushless systems get less hot? Id still be running it on 2s. 

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17 minutes ago, Ziddan said:

Today ive taken the torque tuned motor out of the Blitzed DT03, holding it in my hand and giving it throttle it wants to move way less than a silver can so i conclude its busted, beyond sounding really bad.

Ive also designed a printed a holder to attach my phone to a tripod so i can try laptrax without having to mess around with getting the phone into a good place, balanced on something else.

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Just got back in from the drive.

The phone holder for the tripod worked very well, sadly laptrax colortrack didnt play nice since the cones i have are also yellow, i guess im gonna have to make a marker in some fluorescent color for the car for more reliability, the motion tracking mode worked for a couple of laps but would always start registering erroneously after a couple of minutes.

The Blitzer drives well with the silver can, dont really notice much difference from when the Torque Tuned was working but the silver can also got quite hot, i did not push it as hard however.

Do brushless systems get less hot? Id still be running it on 2s. 

Brushless will run much cooler in the brushed motor gearing.  For example my MFour originally ran a 380 sport tuned motor and it was hot enough to grill a steak.  My current brushless running the same gearing only gets warm.. and significantly faster in speed.  :D 

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For me, continuing on with my Billy’s seat backs for my LandCruisers.. CC01 and CR01.  B)

Sorry for the messy picture.. (but still better than pantry closet shelf photo.. :ph34r::lol:

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Update.. got pulled into some honey do’s that set me back 2 hours.. :ph34r:

Finally got the front and rear of seat backs completed.  Still a ways to go.. 

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Will let the cement dry for a bit.. then sand and paint. 

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Final update for today.. got the shape done.  Will add some color tomorrow and finish both cars.  :D 

I’m thinking brown seat for the black CC01 and sand for the deep yellow CR01 LandCruisers.. what do you think?  

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Edited by Willy iine
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2 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Are you already running brushless?  If not, those are conditions brushless shines in as it has a lot more torque and efficiency over brushed.. 

On a 17.5 Turn brushless. Also picked a smaller pinion gear (forgot the size) to compensate for weight and larger tires. I have a motor fan with heat sink planned

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Yet another trip out with my daughter and C.Avante, first run with new Oil dampers so ofc its now more balanced(+ 2 off the stock dampers needed new oil when i replaced them, that did not help either). I tried to take some action shots while she drove, thats not easy..

Its run great with 2s 5200 mah 60c (seems like 60c helped a bit on accelration, my old Lipo 3000 mah had 20c). I miss some adult time with Top-Force :), but its better than nothing though my daughters prefer to play Tag with it rather than drive it, either way it was a bit Tamiya Quality time

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Got a nice big Nimh pack charged up this morning and we went out for a walk this afternoon.

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Our only running Dual Hunter...until it wasn't...

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As the big 5000mah pack ran out, we lost steering - a couple of screws securing the servo had backed out. Perhaps I had forgotten the threadlock...

It was really great to get back out with an RC car and the DH always brings a smile to our faces

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This afternoon finished builiding the first of three TA02 based builds.

No.1 - TA02SW with FRP chassis, sport tuned motor, low friction dampers - to go under a Taisan Starcard Porsche GT2 shell.

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Added a couple sponsor stickers to the sleeves of Mr. Arnold Applewhite today.

Car should be running a lil' faster now :lol:

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8 minutes ago, rc4ever said:

Installed  a MIP ball diff on my Monster Beetle , wow what a difference.

That's great to hear. Not least because I have one for my Hotshot rebuild that I still need to get on with!

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Only one problem so far, I noticed it sounds like it's slipping not getting full beans on full throttle I can work up to full speed but a hard launch and it has a high pitch squeal and aia right ? and if so how tight do I make the diff to make it run properly. Thanks.

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2 hours ago, rc4ever said:

Installed  a MIP ball diff on my Monster Beetle , wow what a difference.

I have the brace because I was turned off by the MIP price.   Would you say the ball diff is worth it?

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Yesterday was my first time at the local track in awhile, and it was nice to see so many people out having fun with their RCs :D

It's a public/free outdoor track, and someone has definitely been working on it, but the surface was dry and loose, so it was like driving on snow--just no grip whatsoever. The only grip was in the bumps, which of course tried to throw the car off its line, so I didn't worry about trying to be fast or anything.

I was really just trying to make clean-ish laps while dodging everyone and everything on the track. There was a son and father who had set up some plastic BMX kicker ramps in odd places, and the track was recently reconfigured so there were a lot of loose barriers and random steel stakes, and eventually a group of teenagers showed up with a few cars, so there was a lot to pay attention to.

Spent a battery in each car with no breakages and had a blast doing it, all in all a wonderful day of RC! (sorry no pics unless you want to see my grimy DT02 after a day in the dirt)

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On 9/11/2022 at 4:54 PM, Frankster said:

My TT-02B Blitzer Beetle may need a 550.   Added weight from hard shell and larger tires may over-stress the upgraded 540.  Something to think about 🤔

I run all my Tamiya with a Traxxas Titan 550 12T brushed motor and 2S (with a couple of exceptions for purely aesthetic reasons, in cars I rarely drive). The only modification is to shorten the motor shaft to fit inside various vehicles.

I did some boating yesterday morning, but in the afternoon I went to replace a broken shock shaft on my UDR, only to find that I needed to customise a couple of parts to make it all work. The shock shaft was broken in the rod end, so I had to rummage around in my spare parts to find an appropriately sized rod end. Then I realised that when the shaft snapped somehow the lower cap had disappeared too (don't ask me how) so luckily all of the Traxxas lower caps have the same thread, but I needed to ever so slightly increase the size of the hole. I would remove the tiniest amount, test and repeat, about 20 times until I got it perfect. Weirdly, I think it was more satisfying than if I'd just had the correct parts!

I'm still waiting on the shocks and heatsink I ordered for my GF01 build (am I being impatient? I ordered them on the 15th August).

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@lsear2905 so so you use the 550 motors for buggies or for on road cars?

what is 540 silver can brushed equivalent in 550? How many turns would the 550?

 

thanks in advanced.  

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Long weekend and busy with 3 RC projects

Monster Beetle: my body with the dull flat red looked good but the factory gold chrome wheels were out of place.  Finally found time to add PS flat clear.  Waiting to fully dry for 24hrs before mounting tires back on.

Before 

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Before

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After clear flat added to stock rims

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@Frankster Nice Beetle!  I like that satin gold finish.  I should try that in on my WW2 wheels.  Chrome finish is cool, but satin gives it extra character, I think.  

Not going to do it on mine, but now I am imagining a matte finish red HotShot with satin gold wheels..  hummmm!

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