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2 hours ago, ImALlama said:

I got it from https://store.f1rclab.com/vf1/, I had a bunch of spare f103 and f104 parts so I figured I’d build another car just needed a lower chassis. They were the only place I could find that had one with their vf1 package so I figured why not build a vintage f1

Oh wow, that store has A BUNCH of Tamiya stuff.   Thanks for the link even though it wasn't for me.  :lol:

So next year after the touring car I will build, I plan to do one F1 car to decorate my pretend RC shop.. but I want like the best one out there.  I saw the Xray X1 Luxury and I think that is the one I am going to go with.. any thoughts on that chassis or any other recommendation?  I have never purchased a 1:10 F1 chassis so no idea what I am doing.. which is like every day for me.. :lol:    What I want is dual CF deck chassis for sure..

TIA!

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Supplemental post to my pics in the RC Gallery thread, and a holdover until I get this stuff posted in my build threads;

After very much durability testing of my 3D printed aero parts for the TT02 chassis on the basher chassis, I feel the added reinforcement is sufficient now. Aside from smashing straight into something at speed ( Waste Management Can), they are sufficiently durable for hard use. The impact to the garbage can was absorbed by the front splitter and no damage was done to any part of the chassis. So hard hits will sacrifice the aero parts to save the chassis most of the time. But I have gotten to the point where even flipping and rolling on pavement in most cases does not lead to breakage of the aero parts. Every situation will be different, and I can't test them all, so YMMV.

The ultimate goal is to print in CF-PETG. I know it doesn't have the increased impact resistance as compared to CF-Nylon, but I currently can't print nylon.

The possible final revision on the basher, The side skirts are now attached to the chassis with E6000 adhesive instead of the double sided Gorilla tape,

PXL-20221026-203031126-PORTRAIT.jpg

PXL-20221026-202935998-PORTRAIT.jpg

PXL-20221028-195956756.jpg

And the same reinforcement added to the speed run chassis parts,

New in the front

PXL-20221031-152851076-PORTRAIT.jpg

new in the back

PXL-20221031-152835302-PORTRAIT.jpg

 

More soon,

-RC Perspective 

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44 minutes ago, RC Perspective said:

Supplemental post to my pics in the RC Gallery thread, and a holdover until I get this stuff posted in my build threads;

After very much durability testing of my 3D printed aero parts for the TT02 chassis on the basher chassis, I feel the added reinforcement is sufficient now. Aside from smashing straight into something at speed ( Waste Management Can), they are sufficiently durable for hard use. The impact to the garbage can was absorbed by the front splitter and no damage was done to any part of the chassis. So hard hits will sacrifice the aero parts to save the chassis most of the time. But I have gotten to the point where even flipping and rolling on pavement in most cases does not lead to breakage of the aero parts. Every situation will be different, and I can't test them all, so YMMV.

The ultimate goal is to print in CF-PETG. I know it doesn't have the increased impact resistance as compared to CF-Nylon, but I currently can't print nylon.

The possible final revision on the basher, The side skirts are now attached to the chassis with E6000 adhesive instead of the double sided Gorilla tape,

PXL-20221026-203031126-PORTRAIT.jpg

PXL-20221026-202935998-PORTRAIT.jpg

PXL-20221028-195956756.jpg

And the same reinforcement added to the speed run chassis parts,

New in the front

PXL-20221031-152851076-PORTRAIT.jpg

new in the back

PXL-20221031-152835302-PORTRAIT.jpg

 

More soon,

-RC Perspective 

I really like the X stiffener on the rear body posts. On many cars these always seem to bend left or right making wheel fitment asymmetrical. Keep up the great work!

Suggestion from nitpicking-me: if you are running out of travel on the shocks but still want to use these short springs you can add a 3mm shim under the spring retainers. The pre-load collars will move back up in the middle of the adjustment range. I did  that on my last car where I am using long CC01 shocks with normal-length rally springs.

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Installed bearings and drive shaft.  
6574B4A3-8A36-41CE-B66C-1DD3324AAEF2.jpeg.e93299472d47babfb82ea2b7b9096ee8.jpeg

Reused black dampers from DT-02 Nissan Titan.  They are too long but work.  Wheels installed and have black wheel nuts added.  Installed ESC and cockpit.

The battery pack is too tight and cannot fit into slot.  Are new generation of batteries that much bigger?

2DA1A83F-E89E-4C33-976C-A1ABF115AFF8.jpeg.8fa0e1465515ee0a75d219ae81c7255d.jpeg

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13 minutes ago, Pylon80 said:

I really like the X stiffener on the rear body posts. On many cars these always seem to bend left or right making wheel fitment asymmetrical. Keep up the great work!

Suggestion from nitpicking-me: if you are running out of travel on the shocks but still want to use these short springs you can add a 3mm shim under the spring retainers. The pre-load collars will move back up in the middle of the adjustment range. I did  that on my last car where I am using long CC01 shocks with normal-length rally springs.

Thanks! That's actually one of the prints I downloaded and printed off Thingiverse. I like how much it stiffens the body in the rear. Also keeps the tires from rubbing the body as much in the back.

It's actually a poor man's work around for droop. 

I had an issue where it would spin on letting off full throttle at high speed that I traced back to rear droop. So I put stiffer springs in the front and remounted the shocks to use the end of travel as the droop stop. Worked perfectly.

-RC Perspective

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I got my NiMH today, swapped one of the Tamiya connectors to t-connector and applied the QR label for my charger.  B)

The benefit of these battery packs is that they are the smaller size..  some packs have become so huge they don't fit in vintage cars very well..  like my TurboScorpion.. or even my WR02's.  

IMG_2022-10-31-114054.jpg.c60d5df98d99f9e8abd85c04e713aa01.jpg

@Frankster huh.. coincidentally I got these that fit older cars.   Also check out the ONXY packs as they are even smaller in size. 

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20 minutes ago, RC Perspective said:

to use the end of travel as the droop stop.

Yes, this is how the TT-02 (non type-S) is adjusted for droop, using internal shims inside the shocks. The ratio is about 1.5mm of wheel droop for each 1mm of internal shimming. It changes a bit depending on which shock position you use on the shock tower.

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12 hours ago, nel33 said:

nice, just be warned if she really likes it then you will need to buy some more kits... are you using a traxxas ESC? it does have a handy 50% setting. its a bit slow but should be useful.

@Ferruz i had plans to use metal straws for my TT02D but never got around to  making the modification. life got in the way and some other stuff.

I noticed that setting, very clever on the part of Traxxas. Probably end up getting a Traxxas Nimh battery and charger since the esc already has their proprietary connector installed. With that 50% setting it should last her quite a while. I've been sketching up paint scheme ideas and my sister in law said she would print up some graphics on her vinyl cutter gizmo. I'm terrible painting lexan, fingers crossed.

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4 hours ago, bRIBEGuy said:

Nice!  The 2wd Slash is a TON of fun, and pretty tough to boot.  Lucky kid for sure!

Thanks, she's very special to me, almost like a daughter. Our family suffered a major loss earlier this year that really hurt her, so I'm trying to do my best to keep her from dwelling on it. Funny thing, we grew up in such an isolated area, I didn't even know hobby grade r/c's existed until age 11.

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For me decided to replace Willy’s stool legs to round dowels now that I have the proper size in stock.  :lol:

IMG_2022-10-31-141431.jpg.b9bb6d0ce143b442e4e901b541ad970e.jpg

IMG_2022-10-31-141439.jpg.95c0c54530d1e6f7893c7ea4665e6270.jpg

Using precision EWH technologies to align legs evenly... :ph34r:

IMG_2022-10-31-141455.jpg.d2f8224e67260154e0cefe00131ff29e.jpg

Will sand, mask and give it some color in a little bit.   B)

Update.. added color.. will unmask in a bit..

IMG_2022-10-31-153320.jpg.c52e1b42ff8ce2cac4484384fd247896.jpg

Update.. finished the legs.  It’s very similar looking on photo vs before, but the round legs look more the part in person.  :D 

IMG_2022-10-31-161205.jpg.19c8948ca85ce6aec0ee5b85f3e20464.jpg

 

Updated the picture in my profile page.  :D 

IMG_2022-10-31-162651.thumb.jpg.0b95bb1454ec36c46b7c66341a514ca2.jpg

 

 

Edited by Willy iine
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1 hour ago, RushRebel said:

I noticed that setting, very clever on the part of Traxxas. Probably end up getting a Traxxas Nimh battery and charger since the esc already has their proprietary connector installed. With that 50% setting it should last her quite a while. I've been sketching up paint scheme ideas and my sister in law said she would print up some graphics on her vinyl cutter gizmo. I'm terrible painting lexan, fingers crossed.

yeah, they thought of most of the stuff. i opted for the 40w AC-DC converter charger. the proprietary plugs are rather annoying for some but im fine with using them. it does force you to buy proprietary equipment to match it. you might want to get some better tires for it. its not that great on grass i got proline trencher w.2 M2 tires for it and it has much more grip. the downside is the tires weigh a bit more, about the weight of 5 stock tires:4 trenchers. not a big issue but you'll see the acceleration and grip improve. there are a few basic hop ups that make sense but you dont need that much honestly. the stock  tires are one of the bigger annoyances.

@Willy iine amazon batteries are weird to say the least. some fit great and others are just a bit off. i have 1/3 batteries that doesnt fit the manta as the battery door piece cant sit 90 degrees, just 1/8" is all it takes...

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5 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Oh wow, that store has A BUNCH of Tamiya stuff.   Thanks for the link even though it wasn't for me.  :lol:

So next year after the touring car I will build, I plan to do one F1 car to decorate my pretend RC shop.. but I want like the best one out there.  I saw the Xray X1 Luxury and I think that is the one I am going to go with.. any thoughts on that chassis or any other recommendation?  I have never purchased a 1:10 F1 chassis so no idea what I am doing.. which is like every day for me.. :lol:    What I want is dual CF deck chassis for sure..

TIA!

I had no idea either, so I just kept buying each chassis I could get my hands on so I could maybe learn something :lol:. At the moment I only have experience with tamiya f1s, though a few other brands are on my list just haven’t made it to the top yet. Also (maybe it’s just me or when I got into them) it seems f1s are never in stock or discontinued quickly so that’s kept me from trying others. From everything I’ve researched the X-ray seems to be the way to go for racing. Im planning on getting one eventually (would get one now if there was somewhere/other people to race with) but I probably won’t be getting anymore f1s for a lil while, unless I come across a tamiya f201 for a good price or the fgx 2022 gets released.

 

here’s a list of the different cars in case you haven’t come across it yet:

https://www.rcformula1.com.au/index.php/racing/buyers-guide

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42 minutes ago, nel33 said:

 

@Willy iine amazon batteries are weird to say the least. some fit great and others are just a bit off. i have 1/3 batteries that doesnt fit the manta as the battery door piece cant sit 90 degrees, just 1/8" is all it takes...

It's not so much Amazon's problem, but manufacturers have decided to wrap the cells with thicker shirinkwrap (and some use larger gauge wire) and that results in bigger profile.  It is annoying, but if you get certain ones they will fit older cars.  Some explain that in their product description.  

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30 minutes ago, ImALlama said:

I had no idea either, so I just kept buying each chassis I could get my hands on so I could maybe learn something :lol:. At the moment I only have experience with tamiya f1s, though a few other brands are on my list just haven’t made it to the top yet. Also (maybe it’s just me or when I got into them) it seems f1s are never in stock or discontinued quickly so that’s kept me from trying others. From everything I’ve researched the X-ray seems to be the way to go for racing. Im planning on getting one eventually (would get one now if there was somewhere/other people to race with) but I probably won’t be getting anymore f1s for a lil while, unless I come across a tamiya f201 for a good price or the fgx 2022 gets released.

 

here’s a list of the different cars in case you haven’t come across it yet:

https://www.rcformula1.com.au/index.php/racing/buyers-guide

Thanks, this is very helpful!!   Unless something changes I think I will try the XRay..  I would like to get a Tamiya one, but I have this thing about chassis design.. I much prefer dual CF deck chassis where possible.

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25 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

It's not so much Amazon's problem, but manufacturers have decided to wrap the cells with thicker shirinkwrap (and some use larger gauge wire) and that results in bigger profile.  It is annoying, but if you get certain ones they will fit older cars.  Some explain that in their product description.  

in the case (literally) of that battery its not a shrink wrap issue. the small rectangular bulge where the battery wires exit at the end interferes with the tolerances to close the battery door

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8 minutes ago, nel33 said:

in the case (literally) of that battery its not a shrink wrap issue. the small rectangular bulge where the battery wires exit at the end interferes with the tolerances to close the battery door

Yep, manufactures are using different end caps too as there is no standard for it, probably.   Just get the right ones and you'll be fine!  Because I have packs that work.. just need to get the right ones.  If you can find the old ONYX brand ones, they are even smaller.  

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2 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

Yep, manufactures are using different end caps too as there is no standard for it, probably.   Just get the right ones and you'll be fine!  Because I have packs that work.. just need to get the right ones.  

yep, i got 3 NIMH batteries and only one gives issues with manta. not sure if it will hive issues with others i need to build but it works well enough on the ones i did have built.

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7 minutes ago, nel33 said:

yep, i got 3 NIMH batteries and only one gives issues with manta. not sure if it will hive issues with others i need to build but it works well enough on the ones i did have built.

Yeah.. but if you can find the ONYX ones definitely try those..

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1 minute ago, Willy iine said:

Yeah.. but if you can find the ONYX ones definitely try those..

thanks, i will consider those  when the time comes. the TD2021 should be fine, the Super Sabre well, i will need to check when i build it.

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14 minutes ago, nel33 said:

thanks, i will consider those  when the time comes. the TD2021 should be fine, the Super Sabre well, i will need to check when i build it.

NP, I found them at TowerHobbies if you're interested.  B)   Come to think of it, I think that is a Dynamite (Tower) Brand and ONYX is the product name. .(?)

 

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7 hours ago, Willy iine said:

I got my NiMH today, swapped one of the Tamiya connectors to t-connector and applied the QR label for my charger.  B)

The benefit of these battery packs is that they are the smaller size..  some packs have become so huge they don't fit in vintage cars very well..  like my TurboScorpion.. or even my WR02's.  

IMG_2022-10-31-114054.jpg.c60d5df98d99f9e8abd85c04e713aa01.jpg

@Frankster huh.. coincidentally I got these that fit older cars.   Also check out the ONXY packs as they are even smaller in size. 

Thanks. Will check this out.  Looks smaller in capacity but at least it will fit!

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9 minutes ago, Frankster said:

Thanks. Will check this out.  Looks smaller in capacity but at least it will fit!

There is a 5000mAh ONYX one if you can source it in your area.  The one pictured is smaller, but the ONYX is even smaller in dimension so that would be a safer bet. 

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8 hours ago, Pylon80 said:

Yes, this is how the TT-02 (non type-S) is adjusted for droop, using internal shims inside the shocks. The ratio is about 1.5mm of wheel droop for each 1mm of internal shimming. It changes a bit depending on which shock position you use on the shock tower.

Truth be told, I popped the cap off one of the shocks to put the spacers in, and closed them back up without doing so, cause I couldn't be bothered with it. My actual workbench is a mess and I didn't exactly feel like cleaning it all up yet :lol:

So I chose to mount the shocks and set the height adjustment to the point I still had proper compression/rebound, but greatly reduced the droop in the rear. Out in the wild its the same result as using the spacers inside the shock. May not be the "proper" way to do it, but there is more than one way to skin a cat, so to speak.

@Willy iine, Stellar work as always! I got a lot of catching up to do on what you've made recently!

I've got the next 2 days off so lets see how much I can get done!

-RC Perspective

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Put a fresh body on my 4-Tec 2.0 now that I’ve thrashed it and know it works again and really well too. Just spent parts of the last 3 days getting it to this point!

FullSizeRender_dqUXoKavcB69XAJT7arotv.jp
FullSizeRender_wo6AVZwTRc9tiDMSxmS6y2.jpFullSizeRender_2rhqdz14yU69Wge7zrMfpC.jp

 Just a simple, classic, Metallic Blue and Pearl White, both still with Pactra finishes, had to make my own wing since the one from the body went AWOL a decade ago and was going to wrap it with some carbon fiber printed vinyl from XXX Main, but what I got wasn’t wide enough so I just wrapped the side plates for now, May fab up another and do a carbon fiber (carbon fibber?!) style paint job on it.

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Ordered brass pinions for the juggernaut to replace the aluminium ones. And a simple lipo charger that charges through the balancing connector. Enough stuff to get through the winter. :lol:

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