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A good days work though must improve my photography!! 4E4824D2-D398-4F1E-AD90-2C665F9E335E.jpg

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1 hour ago, Elbowloh said:

I've now also become a subscriber! 

I thought that i've been using all the info and resources here for a while now and should pay up to help keep the place going!

 

I also did! Should’ve done it sooner.

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1 hour ago, Sogogi said:

That would’ve been nice! I havent seen anyone running tamiya there except me lol it would be cool to meet fellow tamiya owners

The time I went there a guy was drifting old school with an AWD TT-02 and we took a picture of our cars! It was nice to see one guy and he's running a Tamiya too!

Here's the picture :)

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Spent some time reprograming my old Futaba 4PK after realizing that I inadvertently overwrote a previous car's "slot" when I set up my DT03 a while back.  How did I find that out?  By overwriting the DT03 slot when I decided to fire up the electronics in my TC01 build... :( :angry: :wacko:

Whoops!

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This was on Sunday but haven’t had a chance to update here yet.

fitted the TA06 gear diff to the TD2. Along with the anti roll bars and rebuilding the shocks with new springs and different oil.

Thanks a lot to @BuggyGuy and @ThunderDragonCy for answering my questions on set up last month. I’ve not had a chance to run her yet because of the weather but everything feels so much better. 

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A friend of mine asked me to paint his Lancia body. Didn't put much detail and decals to it as it will be heavily used for this weekend's RC rallycross event that we've planned months ago.

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More progress on the printable 1/10 Kubelwagen:

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My justification for it being Tamiya adjacent is that ive borrowed the suspension design from the wild one for the front, ORV for the back, gears from the ORV and its using leftover grasshopper rear shocks (maybe fronts too) and 380 motor.

Mechanically its done except for the front shock mounts, after that i gotta make a way to attach the body and split the body to fit on my printer.

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Had some progress on the Ground Station.

I did cut out the sponge where the bits were sitting in, used only edges that are shaped to fit nicely into the corners. Ont he right of the monitor I had put a row of the bit seats, to add a softer sponge effect. Makes sense when I push the monitor in... right side first, I have to push the bit seats on the right first before I insert the left side into the sponges to get a nice and snug fit. Two small 2 cm Velcro tapes hold the monitor. So I could always remove if I want to take it out.

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I did re-solder the AV cable, added audio input.  Picture before below (did add a 3,5mm connector to external audio output, speaker, but a true mess of wires) 

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Had to make a Y lead with 12V switch to power the RX and Monitor of the same battery and to turn it on and off.

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It works and looks nice so far, still a lot of work to do, like drilling a hole for the RX to have the antenna sticking out. 

https://imgur.com/JxeWCn3 a video

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7 hours ago, Nicadraus said:

A friend of mine asked me to paint his Lancia body. Didn't put much detail and decals to it as it will be heavily used for this weekend's RC rallycross event that we've planned months ago.

PdJCnjdh.jpg

wkakH8Dh.jpg

XvapM41h.jpg

MrncCi3h.jpg

S3IZe1eh.jpg

ZVU4eKrh.jpg

 

 

To bad you cant POP THE HOOD!!!  what's under the clear hood looks awesome

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After stumping up £42 in customs fees I needed to let my simmering blood cool off, so I did a little work on the FAV - my current favourite Tamiya.

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Frog Universal Joints and an Extra Speed rear under-guard

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Surprisingly easy to assemble these, not as fiddly as the Touring-car sized CVDs. I did spill AW grease on my brand new cutting mat though. That stuff really won't wear off...or wash off it seems. Any tips?

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Step 1: Jack up your car!

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Under Guard fits nicely, it just attaches in these existing 4x screw locations which otherwise hold the plastic 'roll cage' assembly together.

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Takes a bit of tweaking to get this parallel with the rear cross member as the fixing holes have tolerance for up/down movement.

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All done. Looks absolutely spiffing.

 

 

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Have started ordering replacements for my damaged race cars.  Yokomo BD11 and electronics acquired, then the electronics for my son's car and the F1, but I can't find a TB05 Pro available anywhere.  I've just posted a wanted, hoping that someone here has one tucked away they no longer want (or had forgotten about!) and are willing to part with.  I have all the TA07 spares, but he can't run that anymore as the club insists on a plastic tub shaft drive.

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For me, had to go to the office for my money making gig so did not have much time... but managed to make 4 liners which will go on my new commercial grade black wire shelf for the pretend RC shop.   Taking tomorrow off so I hope to get the wiring and everything done..

The color is gray, but looks kinda yellow in this picture.. :wacko:    This is 72" width x 18" depth.. perfect for RC.  

IMG_2023-3-9-185005.jpg.b8432b318a9e11fbc37323037145bdc1.jpg  x4 :lol:

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I saw Plaza Japan had the part I've been waiting for (a small part for the Kyosho Jimny) but of course they didn't have the other parts that RCMart had... so adding shipping to both orders added almost 40% to each order!! Guess I just have to keep waiting for RCMart to get that part in.

I also put a Kyosho Mini Z 4x4 (my spare 4Runner) and a Proboat UL19 on the chopping block, considering I recently bought the TRX4M and on Wednesday night a bought another RC yacht, so I'm trying to stick to my (rarely enforced) 1 in, 1 out policy.

Also, and this was fun, I actually got to use the local proper 1:10 RC offroad course for the first time in 5+ years! I was rusty as heck but it was great fun... 

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11 hours ago, ChrisRx718 said:

Step 1: Jack up your car!

I love the tiny little jack stands :)

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Was have breakfast this morning and saw this in the table. So got to thinking, can I make it RC? Metal shell.

Just measured it 175mm wheelbase.

Just checked, WR02 is 172mm.

Any other options for chassis?

 

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Fitted the long tie rod steering set to my TT-02 Type S. Can't wait to try it out at the track. The steel turnbuckles that came with it were replaced with blue aluminum ones for the blue bling we all love :D

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On 2/19/2023 at 8:23 PM, BuggyDad said:

I had a few hours to play with today, no tools with me but some cars and batteries. And some dry tarmac in the sun. So my plan was to get my M-08 going and have a go at the postal racing. I cut some TC sized foams down for the tyres (seem just right) but they need glue and because I want to be able to remove them I used shoe goo, which takes at least 24 hours to dry so the car is out of action. So I got wheels etc onto my newly built up TT-02SR and took that out instead. 

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And good lord is it fast. 

So it is lightening quick but I also have a problem with transmitter/receiver in it. It seems to lose connection occasionally at about 20m or so away. These two facts are not happy bedfellows. Evidence for which can be seen above (reopened old wounds mostly - it's not a new shell).

The antenna is really open on this and up in a straw, so I don't think it's that - my other same model receivers are fine here. I will swap in a different receiver I think first to see if that fixes it. But to cloud the issue this transmitter has a bit of form. It's a 2nd hand basic Absima CR3P and it can do odd things. Like today it's end point to the right needed reducing while the left did not. On the screen L&R both showed 100%, but when you go into it for setting, R was 120%. Then adjusting it down to 100% didn't make a difference (it did on screen, not on the car), so I changed it to a silly value like 30% and that did. Then back to 100% and it's OK. The transmitter has done similar before. I've been running my XV-01 with it fine but it took time to get that to neutral settings. I have found some very strange settings in it from previous owner, and whenever I add a new model I could be starting with anything, plus as above I can't trust my adjustments. I wish I could do a factory reset. 

On the plus side, car seems mechanically excellent. It's tight, steering has minimal play now,. It's light. It seems to corner in a neutral way. Once I've tackled the shonky electronics I think it'll be a winner. So far, I like my TT-02 a lot. These tyres are for the wet though. Perhaps too grippy, and I'd be better fitting the cheapies I have, which I intend to do, rather than destroying these in double quick time. 

I did also try the M-08 on these TC wheels. It was odd. Oversteery but slow. I didn't chase this down because, well, let's get the normal wheels on then work on it. 

I believe I saw a GR3E receiver, which is used on a low-end Fly Sky either GT2B or GT3B/C. I would ditch that controller for anything performing (like a crawler), and get a decent radio. They make such a huge difference to the experience with a decent response. Best advice I was ever given.

If it helps, I got a Futapa TP4M, but even a Fly Sky GT5 will feel like an upgrade in response and precision.

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Let's call it 'Ground Station version 1.1.2'

My first conclusion was totally wrong, and I am surprised I came up with such a idea at first. The wires were wrong and the monitor doesn't support Audio. But the best part is yet to come. 

This is the correct setup, just followed instructions of an Aliexpress add, for 7 inch TFT monitor, it is a monitor used for truckers and car enthusiasts for parking or surveillance.

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No Audio, just AV1 (camera 1) and AV2 (camera 2), the green wire is signal for switching from AV1 to AV2 when you engage reverse gear.

I have, in the meantime while building this, ordered a RC832 5.8GHz RX to replace the RC305 I currently own. The RC832 is a 40ch receiver with display for Frequency and Channel, while switching in between frequencies and channels is done via two buttons on the RC832, the RC305 uses rocker switches and is a 8ch RX.

 

I also have learned that on both RX's the AV1 and AV2 outputs mean separated video and audio. See picture.

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This is the best part of this story, because I have three camera setup's with VTX and microphone, this means I could have on 3 of my RC cars a camera with mic to see and listen while driving, Can't be a bad thing tho. Especially on speed runs, to see the road in front of the car far in distance.  I also see this idea good for Crawler short videos and fun.:lol:

 

I have added a 5-6 mm thick sponge layer on the bottom of the case. The RC832 is ''secured'' with the male part of Velcro tape, it snugs into the sponge and can be easily removed.

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I am using an antenna wire to extend the length of the antenna to RX distance, might make a holder for the antenna, the wire is so long that the top end of the antenna wire is just about 1 cm longer than the case, but the antenna itself has about 5-6 cm length. Far away enough to mount it away from the electronics, also I could remove the RC83 easily out of the case and considering wire length, place the receiver about 3-4 cm out of the case, which would extend the antenna to RX/Case for about 15-19 cm.

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