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Stared at this TT02 for a while trying to figure out what's missing, need to download a manual and buy some parts bags :lol:

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Finished off the electronics install in the "For the Mogs" TT-02 charity build. 

2020-08-06_01-17-14

Now all we need are body posts and a charger. (And maybe a manual?)

2020-08-06_01-16-58

 

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Went to my local shop today before to see what they had and walked out with this...paid a little more than if i ordered from tower but id rather support local. 

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I received the "Carbon damper stays for TRF Short Shocks" today for the M07, so I went to work installing them, and I also swapped out the TRF springs for the soft/more suitable stock springs that came with the kit, as someone on here had advised...

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I also took out the M-Grip tires and blue (?) inserts for them to install onto the wheels...

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After fitting the TRF shock towers and the wheels, I'm still a little unsure about the end result, it looks WAY too low for anything except polished marble :lol:. I may have to take apart the shocks and remove the single o-ring that the included booklet told me to install for M chassis....

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And here is the finished product (without the body) so far: The M07RR, or what an M07RR would be like if it existed I suppose:

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4 minutes ago, DeadMeat666 said:

After fitting the TRF shock towers and the wheels, I'm still a little unsure about the end result, it looks WAY too low for anything except polished marble :lol:. I may have to take apart the shocks and remove the single o-ring that the included booklet told me to install for M chassis....

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That looks excessively low.  How much clearance did you have with the other shock towers?  

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Just now, SupraChrgd82 said:

That looks excessively low.  How much clearance did you have with the other shock towers?  

None at all. The car was on the ground lol.

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13 minutes ago, DeadMeat666 said:

None at all. The car was on the ground lol.

I'll measure and post a pic when I get home from work.

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 @DeadMeat666 Where is the piston/valve in relation to the shock body? Is it fully extended or sitting in the middle with the chassis at driving weight? 

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The ugly Mad Bull purchase from last year turned into a slightly better Mad Bull.  Or at least in my eyes. Plus, I had some really old yellow paint I was about to toss and decided it was good enough for this thing. 
 

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22 hours ago, xzenonuk said:

nice :D

 

i use some super glue on hopper decals when they start lifting up as well :)

 

awesome hornet  :)

 

love the long arial tube, been thinking of using one that long on some of my models just for looks for a proper retro asthetic  :)

Thanks !! I’ve got a stick transmitter coming soon to pair it with. 

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22 hours ago, xzenonuk said:

nice :D

 

i use some super glue on hopper decals when they start lifting up as well :)

 

awesome hornet  :)

 

love the long arial tube, been thinking of using one that long on some of my models just for looks for a proper retro asthetic  :)

Thanks !! I’ve got a stick transmitter coming soon to pair it with. 

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3 hours ago, SupraChrgd82 said:

@DeadMeat666 - I have about 6mm of clearance at rest, about 2mm of droop and tire compression. It's about the height of the tire sidewall.

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@SupraChrgd82 I measured as well; it's around 5mm. Isn't that too low for running on tarmac? And the piston is around 3/4 extended at rest. These TRF Short Shocks are VERY short. I still think I should open up the shocks and remove the o-ring below the piston inside.

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37 minutes ago, DeadMeat666 said:

@SupraChrgd82 I measured as well; it's around 5mm. Isn't that too low for running on tarmac? And the piston is around 3/4 extended at rest. These TRF Short Shocks are VERY short. I still think I should open up the shocks and remove the o-ring below the piston inside.

5mm is probably too low for anything but very smooth, stone free tarmac, but i have consistently been surprised by how my touring cars at 6-7mm ride height easily negotiate the stony, rough tarmac outside my house. You will end up with s very scuffed chassis tub, but they will run fine. 

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Just now, ThunderDragonCy said:

5mm is probably too low for anything but very smooth, stone free tarmac, but i have consistently been surprised by how my touring cars at 6-7mm ride height easily negotiate the stony, rough tarmac outside my house. You will end up with s very scuffed chassis tub, but they will run fine. 

Ok you just scared the crap out of me! The last thing I want to do is scuff the chassis tub on tarmac. Every time I see a scratch or scuff on something I've built (except if it's on the body, which is easily replaceable), I die a little inside. That's it, I'm going to pull the shocks and lengthen the stroke to make the car sit a little higher before daring to run it on tarmac :lol:.

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8 minutes ago, DeadMeat666 said:

Ok you just scared the crap out of me! The last thing I want to do is scuff the chassis tub on tarmac. Every time I see a scratch or scuff on something I've built (except if it's on the body, which is easily replaceable), I die a little inside. That's it, I'm going to pull the shocks and lengthen the stroke to make the car sit a little higher before daring to run it on tarmac :lol:.

Regardless of how high you run it, it will scuff. I have a rally car at 15mm and because of the soft shocks it still bottoms out occasionally. Running higher also makes it more likely to tip over in corners. If it's a runner, get some clear vinyl and stick it on the underside to protect it. 

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I built my new Konghead yesterday and today, complete with coloured gears and clear chassis.

Old one has been stripped down, cleaned and posted for sale.

Photos to come (of the new one).

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Sorted out my spare screw box last night. 

IMG_20200807_143558.thumb.jpg.046303622d455d090e7be02468ac0285.jpg

Bit sad, but quite thereputic (sp) when you consider the week I've had :lol:

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9 hours ago, DeadMeat666 said:

Ok you just scared the crap out of me! The last thing I want to do is scuff the chassis tub on tarmac. Every time I see a scratch or scuff on something I've built (except if it's on the body, which is easily replaceable), I die a little inside. That's it, I'm going to pull the shocks and lengthen the stroke to make the car sit a little higher before daring to run it on tarmac :lol:.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/jconcepts-14x5.5-chassis-protective-film-sheet-2-jco1155/p20871

https://www.amazon.com/Team-Associated-Chassis-Protective-Sheet/dp/B000VCXSPQ

https://www.rcplanet.com/rc-parts/r-c-car-truck-parts/pro-line-1-10-scale-universal-clear-chassis-protector-pro630900/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIi5rDz76J6wIVRAnnCh1dQgt8EAQYAyABEgIHgfD_BwE

 

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Took the latest Nikko project our for a test drive. It's some way off being finished yet but it seems to go along ok.

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The motors may need a re-think though. The stock motors are 2x Mabuchi 380s I think 45T similar to the Grasshopper uses. I installed two 23t 390 motors and they perform great but they get pretty hot. 

I can't really tell if they are "too" hot though, it all feels the same to me over about 50°c lol. I know the stock motors get hot and indeed the Grasshopper motor goes thermonuclear after a thrashing but I assume they stay somehwere just inside melting temps. I'm not sure if these 390s are a bit too highly strong for the job though. They are a little longer than 380s but they are 23T so can draw quite a bit more current too, especially with a hobby ESC.

I only drove it around for about 10 minutes mostly on road and they seemed quite toasty.

My eventual plan is to install 540 motors as the chassis is designed to fit them (the stock 380 motors come in plastic mounts that have outer dimensions that are like a 540, some versions come from the factory with 540s) and they would of course work up less of a sweat compared to 380s or 390s.

The only obstacle is finding pinions. The stock pinions are 7t but made for 2.3mm shafts and it's hard to find 7t 0.8m (or even 32dp) pinions for 3.175mm. Rc4wd used to make them but not any more. Hot racing make some intended for the Clod which would be ideal but the postage is way more than the actual pinions cost!

The other option is to temporarily "borrow" 7t pinions from another Nikko truck I have which has 540s as standard so has 7t pinions with the correct 3.17mm bore.

I guess the motor temps might be ok, need to get the temp gun out. And it was fairly hot today too for Wales but still, I don't feel like they would be happy after 20-30 mins of scrambling around on dirt/gravel/grass/sand etc which is what I need from an RC so a 540 swap will probably be on the cards in the near future. I could just use 390 size brushless motors too which are way cooler than brushed and wouldn't quite have the gear killing torque of 540 size brushless motors but that's more money even if I get cheap stuff, need two motors and 2 seperate speed controllers for that.

Anyways, it's running at least and beginning to resemble something now after being in bits for years.

Later on, I think me and the kid might go for a walk down the rugby pitch and I'll take m y Neo Frog that I usually use at the beach, see how the sand paddles work on grass.

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Trying to work out what parts I'm missing to build this. IMG_20200807_192653.thumb.jpg.f7563cf1123526ad0cc09b538dcbad2d.jpg

Want to do a rally car B)

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Finally fitted the chrome and clear parts to my Blitzer Beetle. This has been on the go for nearly a year now!

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gave the sandviper a much needed overhaul, new chassis, new gearbox side and gears, new bumper, new servo mounts etc :)

i will probably do more but thats enough for one day, im surprised the old 10+ year old chassis hadn't snapped in half yet lol

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