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So, What Have You Done Today?

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some more, fitted a different Receiver, from my main transmitter. I like how everything has a little bit of blue on it, the motor can, esc, receiver, hop ups, still  missing a lot tho.

ready for speed runs... what diff ratios equals now with touring tires?

eWA3fDd.jpg

is there like some kind of foam bumer for the m05?? lots of space here...

 

PWi0QOs.jpg

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3 hours ago, unixphreak said:

I added oil-filled coil overs to my Black Edition. Now I just need to polish the body and wait for spring to run it.

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That looks good👍 this one is probably the best edition since the original the box it comes in looks good aswell like the avante  black special makes a change from just a sticker on the standard box! 

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In the RC part of my day, I kept going with the TS driver.  His body is now done, but he's still got quite a primer face... planning on some eyes for tomorrow.

Also, I managed to go out for the usual workout just before the curfew

Screenshot-20210111-203054-Video-Player.

Screenshot-20210111-204304-Video-Player.

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6 hours ago, unixphreak said:

I added oil-filled coil overs to my Black Edition. Now I just need to polish the body and wait for spring to run it.

spacer.png

 

What type/ brand of dampers are they? I also have the Black Clod in my list of builds. Thanks!

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Did more work to fit those giant Hyrax on my Losi’s tonight and geebus are they huge😶

 

001(154).HEIC
001(153).HEIC

 

I was also finally able to order one of the Minster Beetle TR’s from Tamiya USA direct tonight, right about midnight Central Standard Time on 1/13/21 too😁

 

Price was decent too, just shy of $180, free shipping and only had to pay Illinois state sales tax too!

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23 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

Now, would I do something like that to you??😉

If your having doubts now then absolutely, definitely do not click on this link...

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=134660&id=49381 

There are some outstanding examples fully decked out with a faux motor and added accessories, something for down the track for me as I’m enjoying it stock bar the 13.5t LRP BL (2s) in it for the time being. 

I must admit I was tempted to message you to see what you were chasing for yours 😬 but I’ve now invested in some M05 bits and bobs and pulled the trigger on a MK1 Escort shell yesterday, before they disappear again, that came up at an Aussie shop on eBay. It’s the same one that L&L in the UK sell. So I’m going to need a chassis for that project.

I tried Round 7 of the Postal Racing on Stock & SRB wheels with the WO,  I never would have thought they would have made so much difference.

While the Stock wheels (in the garden) are great for holding a straight line at speed, they struggled on the tight turns. Where as the SRB wheels made it much more nimble, turning in much sharper.

I came to the conclusion that that’s why the FAV’s are so popular. Now at least I have a sort of FAV until they get rere’d again.

All the best in deciding whether to let yours go........or not 😉

It’s a great looking model, prettier than the FAV to me anyway and my wife likes my WO as well.

I decided to list it on the ‘Bay as there was a £1 selling fee offer at the weekend and I’m being ambitious on the price so I’ll sit out and see. That in its self tells I’d be happy to keep it 😉.

Its my 4th WO and I’ve had 2 FAV’s so I clearly like the model, the other 5 were sold 5 to TC members so they’ve been kept in-house 😂.

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after 2 months of not running anything I took my tamiya ta-03rs for a spin, that was not a good decision to run it on a very rough carpark on  wet tarmac the result after 5 minutes drive was.

50830634833_3eb4da362a_k.jpg

 

 

I Think a need a new body:ph34r:,  But I have 1 new hpi peugeot body for it and 2 used toyota corrolla bodies for the car.

The body was allready full of cracks and repaired several times.

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Ordered bearings for my impending TXT-2 and M04 builds.

Re-wired the 1:48 scale shop so the roof fits better, started to fabricate a 1st floor chimney to hide the wiring and continued to paint a set of shelves for it.

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21 hours ago, Ferruz said:

In the RC part of my day, I kept going with the TS driver.  His body is now done, but he's still got quite a primer face... planning on some eyes for tomorrow.

Also, I managed to go out for the usual workout just before the curfew

Screenshot-20210111-203054-Video-Player.

Screenshot-20210111-204304-Video-Player.

Wow! Looks like your on Mars! Bit excessive just to get away from the lockdown restrictions 😄

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Ordered a few Holmes Hobbies Trailmaster motors, now that some of them are available and finally wrapped my niece’s gifts, since we’re finally going to get together with my Sister and her family on Sunday!

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I've been researching pinion and spur gear sizes for my Outlaw project.

I fear my low turn brushed crawler motor might not be quite right for what I have in mind. Certainly if I use the standard Axial AX10 gearing.

So I'm planning on dropping the pinion quite a bit and I've ordered a temperature gauge so I can try a few experiments.

I also stumbled across some Injora beadlock wheels that are just like the ones on the jerp recently run by the friend of a friend.

Rubicon-NYE-2020.jpg

So they have been ordered, due in February / March. Just hoping they will fit on my SCX10iii.

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Instead of buying something from China, a brake from an old pair of inline skates has been given new life as the shock mounts for the Blackfoot.

blackfoot_newfront_011321_01.jpg

blackfoot_newfront_011321_02.jpg

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I had a go at making a glitch buster but it didn't seem to make much difference tbh.

I tried fitting a beefier servo to my Lunchbox and it draws enough current to make the lights dim when you first move the steering. It just seems to be the fleeting current burst when the servo motor first moves from stationary because the lights go straight back to normal again and even when you hold the wheels locked and apply full steering and put the servo under strain, the lights return to full brightness.

The ESC I have only has a fairly weedy 2 amp BEC so I was going to just put the previous servo back in but then I decided that as it's only a split second issue when you first start steering, a glitch buster might do the trick!

Well it made absolutely no difference at all. I tried a 1200uf capacitor first with no joy so I tried a 3300 too but no cigar.

Maybe it would work to fix other problems but not this one. I think I wired it correctly but maybe I goofed up somewhere? Seems pretty simple though, just two wires. I tried the 3rd channel and the power port but got the same result with both. Maybe the wires could have been shorter but I would have thought there would be some semblance of a difference even if that was the case.

Oh well! The truck drives fine still and like I say, it only seems to be a that initial transition of the servo motor going from still to moving, you can load it up and the lights still dim and come straight back up. I would leave but it's just a bit irritating visually lol.

I'm just going to put the original servo back in as it was perfectly adequate.

Seems like for an issue like this, there's no substitute for an external BEC or an ESC with a better BEC!

20210114_162716_copy_1280x960.thumb.jpg.6bfdddfaaa6b0756cf34517b587cd15a.jpg

20210114_162924_copy_1280x960.thumb.jpg.5f568ea62ffa71e03cd1fbd373c36c6c.jpg

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27 minutes ago, nowinaminute said:

I had a go at making a glitch buster but it didn't seem to make much difference tbh.

I tried fitting a beefier servo to my Lunchbox and it draws enough current to make the lights dim when you first move the steering. It just seems to be the fleeting current burst when the servo motor first moves from stationary because the lights go straight back to normal again and even when you hold the wheels locked and apply full steering and put the servo under strain, the lights return to full brightness.

The ESC I have only has a fairly weedy 2 amp BEC so I was going to just put the previous servo back in but then I decided that as it's only a split second issue when you first start steering, a glitch buster might do the trick!

Well it made absolutely no difference at all. I tried a 1200uf capacitor first with no joy so I tried a 3300 too but no cigar.

Maybe it would work to fix other problems but not this one. I think I wired it correctly but maybe I goofed up somewhere? Seems pretty simple though, just two wires. I tried the 3rd channel and the power port but got the same result with both. Maybe the wires could have been shorter but I would have thought there would be some semblance of a difference even if that was the case.

Oh well! The truck drives fine still and like I say, it only seems to be a that initial transition of the servo motor going from still to moving, you can load it up and the lights still dim and come straight back up. I would leave but it's just a bit irritating visually lol.

I'm just going to put the original servo back in as it was perfectly adequate.

Seems like for an issue like this, there's no substitute for an external BEC or an ESC with a better BEC!

20210114_162716_copy_1280x960.thumb.jpg.6bfdddfaaa6b0756cf34517b587cd15a.jpg

20210114_162924_copy_1280x960.thumb.jpg.5f568ea62ffa71e03cd1fbd373c36c6c.jpg

Perhaps maybe even larger? I've heard 4700 being tossed around, and even higher with the newer high torque digital servos.

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6 minutes ago, Grumpy pants said:

Posted my sold wheel set out and hovered over a WW2 kit purchase.... 

Didn't you recently sell one?!

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2 hours ago, El Gecko said:

Perhaps maybe even larger? I've heard 4700 being tossed around, and even higher with the newer high torque digital servos.

I'll see if I have any bigger ones laying around. If not, it starts to get expensive enough to just get a cheap BEC instead lol. 

I guess I could put a few in parallel though like those packs you can get, see if I get anything? I'm thinking there must surely be limits to what the you can achieve with those tiny wires and servo connectors, though.

Mind you, talking about cost effectiveness, while I know cheap Chinese capacitors (not the decent ones, I know there's a difference) tend to be rubbish for constant use such as TV and PCs etc, I wonder if they would suffice for a glitch buster? Even if the cheap one only has 1/5 the lifespan you're hardly going to burn through it quickly for this usage scenario I would have though? I can literally get 20 Chinese ones for the price of 2 Panasonic or other big brand.

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1 hour ago, Badcrumble said:

Didn't you recently sell one?!

I did exactly that 😂, I sold two WW2’s last year 🤦, but I’d really like  a NIB kit as I don’t want the faff on taking something apart, cleaning it and repairing it etc, etc. 

 

 

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I just got around to gluing the other side of my plastic drift soft rubber tires with Krazy glue. I got 3 sets of the same black and red plastic rims. One was just glued with soft rubber, one set is going plastic drift and the 3rd set will be spares. I'm thinking of doing the last set with 2 rubber tires and 2 plastic drift tires.

I tried fitting the old drift tires on the black red rims and the old tires are 2mm thinner than the rims I want them mounted on. I could try using the foam insert with th hard drift tires but I can also wait for the other set to test fit them. Maybe that special sticky tape might be needed for these rims... Though my drift tires on the aluminumrims seem to be a better fit width wise, I just don't have the MST tool to remove them yet. Destroyed my skin trying to remove by hand when dunked in hot water.

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