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Installed sway bars in one of my re re Javelins.

Besides being a pain, I am wondering whether I should have left it the way it is. My other re re Javelin (converted Turbo Optima) has sway bars and I like the way the two cars have different characters.

Still, disconnecting or uninstalling the sway bars is easy enough if i want to go back.

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Had a dry day today so did a bit of rattle can work as er indoors won't let me spray indoors. The grills and light buckets were done with mini pots and an airbrush which I can get away with. 

Needs masking tape removing as the ridges are silver, rubbing down and laquering but I'm well happy with the colour. It's Halfords paint and it's Citroen Wicked Red Metallic, slightly darker than box art but I really like it

IMG_20210215_170042.jpg

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I got in a quick run with the DJI spark yesterday, then finished off the evening with the first night run for the Kyosho Mini Z.

908312330_2021-02-1520_50_31.jpg.7b1c0f70cbd2f83a6f017aff384af6e8.jpg

My maths tells me that's 12 cars (and the drone) so far. I also found some more shelf space in the garage for my 'beater' Bandit.

My plan for today, because it's too warm to run anything fast outside, is to run a few inside vehicles - Q32, SW-01, HBX Devastator... we'll see.

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Well, February got me back to the hobby, due to some pretty unfortunate circumstance. Still, I'm getting a a kick out of tinkering and running these things. The week before I ran the 1989 Kyosho Hi Rider, and last Sunday the all-stock original Clod Buster got all the attention from the people around. I told the guys, "wait & see me bust some Clod Buster myths when I turn this old goat on". And with the original MSC, cheapest Futaba servos you can find, a 1800 Mah NiCD batt pack, and a proper 1992 radio to go, nothing stopped the Clod to steal the show! If you keep the MSC clean and in good shape it works great. Anyway, here some photos...

GPKMa9c.jpeg

Here's some alu "double washers" I've made to keep the anti-rotation brackets to break. They keep everything in place, and you don't need to modify anything or use different screws. You put them on and if you want remove 'em, no sweat! ;) 

miKibfM.jpeg

Oh, my heart will always belong to the Clod Buster! :wub:

SJZZfkn.jpeg

Finally, the truck and the boys...

CfVJDs1.jpeg

Y'all be safe and have a good week! :)

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19 hours ago, dannymulder said:

The 100a blx esc in the arrma are junk, I had the same problems with mine in a typhon 3s getting 8 minutes on a 5200mah  55/100 3s lipo this in not normal, with the same batteries I get a 25 minutes runtime on my losi rock rey and traxxas rustler 4x4.

if you want to keep the arrma do yourself a favour and buy a hobbywing max10 sct esc for it, then you get longer runtimes.

I was very disappointed with mine arrma, servo is crap so is the radio and the esc, broke the suspension arm only from light bashing never broke an suspension arm on my tamiya, problems with the gears and leaky shock, I sold mine because I did not want to replace all the elektrics and other parts

I was going to buy the max10 today, but went out to my car and found a nail through the tyre sidewall, and since the other rear is getting low, I am replacing them both, so there goes the money for that, and with the delay in the Escort and M07, I was going to use the extra money to pick up the M06 Type2 at my LHS 🙄

I also got told to go home today as I have a scratchy throat, so have to go get tested for Covid tomorrow.

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3 hours ago, mongoose1983 said:

Well, February got me back to the hobby....

Good to see you back, Erich.  I still have box of stuff set aside for you. If you have a chance, please PM or Whatsapp me.

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2 hours ago, berman said:

I was going to buy the max10 today, but went out to my car and found a nail through the tyre sidewall, and since the other rear is getting low, I am replacing them both, so there goes the money for that, and with the delay in the Escort and M07, I was going to use the extra money to pick up the M06 Type2 at my LHS 🙄

I also got told to go home today as I have a scratchy throat, so have to go get tested for Covid tomorrow.

That is a terrible day - I hope you're OK.

I set up my indoor micro crawler track and drove the HBX Devastator for the first time in ages. After spending so much time driving the Kyosho I'm struggling to justify keeping it - especially when they're going for such stupid money on eBay at the moment. Plus, mine has a Porsche Cayenne hard body and RC4WD tires. I might list it with a stupid price and see what happens.

The Kyosho was a champ as always.

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It's funny how things can rapidly snowball when you're under engaged (I've been in too many work motivational meetings lately!) and not able to get out and do stuff....

Normally I'd spend a few hours at the weekends tinkering in the garage with other peoples resto projects or one of my own. The ones I have on the go at the moment are all paint related, and as the weather has been truly atrocious for the past few weeks and I'm not about to ruin their prized possessions I've been at a bit of a loose end. So, I've spent a bit of time getting my King Cab built and am nearly there (last part minus the body arrived today!) and the rest of the time has been spent sorting through spares and generally gazing at my collection.

It's here that the combination of these two activities has snowballed. As most will realise, the Astute and the King Cab share several common parts, so I've been rummaging through both sets of spares to get the King Cab built. As I mentioned before, this has been built mainly out of the spares from my Monster Racer. A while back I converted my Astute into a Jamie Booth replica, so all the original parts had gone in the spares box, and combining those with the bits from the King Cab I thought "hang on, I'm not far off having a spare Astute here....." Deja vu anyone? :huh::rolleyes:

So I did a quick scan through:

  • gearbox, check.
  • arms, check. 
  • shocks, check
  • wheels and tyres, half check
  • various bolts etc, check
  • bumpers, check

A plan began to form in my head. Why not strip down the Jamie Booth replica, leaving only the original parts on it, clean up all the original bits I didn't fit originally (original shocks, wheels, radio gear, battery holder, arms etc) and make it a super clean example of how it was back when I was a kid. This would leave me with a bunch of Madcap arms, Hi Caps, front wheels - I could combine them with the spare gearbox I had and make a sort of Super Astute hybrid I can have a blast with!

The first obvious thing I knew I'd need was a set of FRP chassis parts, along with some rear wheels and tyres and a rear wing mount.  

Now, if I'd been sensible and not had so much spare time and a mind prone to wandering, a quick build with a box of spare bits and I'd have a nice Astute runner. Sadly dear friends, that's not the way things are now, is it? :) 

While searching for those parts I noticed a set of Super Astute front and rear arms for sale at a very reasonable price. "Now, if I get those I can leave the Madcap arms on the Original Astute and not have to worry about the broken steerers I've got - that'll be a sensible thing to do." And so they were added to the basket. A day or so later it dawned on me that I had spare Astute battery holder, but not a Super Astute one, and if it was going to be a runner, having a longitudinal battery would be so much better, so a SA battery holder tree was ordered. Then I remembered I'd also need the rear upright brace in that case, so that got added too. As I was paying for shipping I may as well get a set of screws to keep it all tidy.

While I was waiting for some parts to arrive I began stripping the Jamie Booth down and getting the original bits all cleaned up. Everything was going well until I arrived at the arms and uprights. As everyone knows, the Astute uprights at the back are an engineering marvel that falls apart at the lightest of careless exhalations. The ones on mine aren't terrible - they work, but they aren't pretty. At the front both steerers have broken. As I had thought earlier, I could just leave the Madcap arms and uprights on it (they are brand new originals) and it would look lovely. But it wouldn't be how it was meant to be. Resigned to this fact, I took a look at the arms. The backs were in very good condition, hardly a mark on them. The fronts were a bit bashed. I had a go at filling some of the dings and sanding and smoothing them and made some progress, but they just weren't perfect. Hmmmmm, what to do.....? <_<

Obviously, original unused arms and uprights are just about impossible to find this side of a unorthodox organ donation, so another way had to be found. Rcjaz make alloy uprights and steerers, but not arms, so that would only fix half a job. Plus - and I know I'm going to sound picky here (as if I hadn't before) but they'd be metal, not plastic! There's nothing for it - I'll just have to 3D print some of my own! So, a few hours later, I have a set of models created, uploaded to Shapeways and ordered. Right - that's everything sorted for the Original Astute.

But hang on a minute Jon - if you're going to build the spare parts into a Super Astute, you can't have a standard transmission. But that's ok Jon, you just built one of them and put it in your Monster Racer. Just pop it back out and you're all sorted!

:mellow:

Nope - it just looks too pretty in the Monster Racer - I'll just have to get another TCC.......

I'm sure I'd make a fascinating study for a psychologist who specialises in OCD behaviour.....

 

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One thing leads to another @jonboy1! Hopefully there will be peace and tranquillity at the end of the journey!

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Over the ;ast few weeks I've been pondering moving some of the fleet. Dipped my toe in the water last month with spectacular results, ye you guessed it nothing;) So moving forward apart from the construction of the Escort I deceided to concentrate on getting the fleet spring ready!!  The Dual Rider I have part dismantled, will be using the motor and ESC in an old boat project, well one of them, I have several unfinished. Ive started to get all I need to get the TT02-T on the road as a Metro 6R4 Rally car . Just need some paint* and work out the body posts. I have recently put Madbull wheels on to the Arqoshot with a 10.5 brusless set so the Madbull was looking a bit sad. Now I've ended up with more time on my hands as I have aggravated a chronic back condition, which means opiate strength painkillers. Very effective but the days pass in a bit of a haze^_^ so Idecided to get the Bull back in shape. I'never really sorted the steering issue so I rigged up a double ended tie rod in place of the bent wire

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I need to reduce the end points slightly as it binds on the servo at full lock. So once I'd done that I needed to address the wheels that I had taken off to put on the DT-03. I have 6 whhels and tyres from the Dynahead that I never used but the are all hex fittings. Enter the hex converters i bought a long time ago but never got to work. Well after playing with multiple combinations of bearings, bushes, washers and nuts it worked. I drilled out the wheel hub so I could get an 850 bearing in. The aluminium hex and hub is push fitted into the back of the wheel, actually hammered, so wil be interesting to see how well it lasts. May have to glue them in but I had 6 so i've still got 4 left if it goes wrong.

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Edited by Busdriver
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52 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

IMG_2381.JPG.fb966a217a551ee58e58ffdb663cec4e.JPG

 

That Burger King design is awesome! Is that your own creation?

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so i went into the LHS to get some bearings for my TD build for when it comes it march?? and some extra paint for touch up/future projects and came out with a few more items. 1 can of paint, 8x and 20x bearing for the TD, 2x 2wd RPM slash bearing carriers, bearing oil CST 47 @40C and my slash 2WD that came in yesterday for LHS in-person pickup. the RTR slash was a complete surprise to see it was in but i still need to do some work to make the connectors Traxxas-Tamiya to work with my Tamiya plug batteries. the traxxas battery with it has the charger and my DC-AC adapter does the trick. i need to put fiber tape and shoe goo to reinforce the slash body from the start before i run it. i learned my lesson with the TT02 fast on running unreinforced bodies and wall impacts. i have yet to open the wrapping on the slash and cant wait to do that in a few minutes.

i just put the 2 kits side by side just now a  O.O thats a fair size difference between the 2. i have to find space for these 2 RC, 2 1/10 bodies (coupe M2 and FD3s) and later on the Thunder Dragon... it doesnt help that i got 26 Gundam kits taking up some useful wall/dresser space, not to mention 5 plastic model cars that require glue/ paint.

on a side note, currently one YT channel i enjoy watching is Life of Boris and im thinking of putting 3 adidas white stripes on top of the shell as a fun joke to Slav the truck up LOL

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IMG_4277[1].jpg

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1 hour ago, nel33 said:

the RTR slash was a complete surprise to see it was in but i still need to do some work to make the connectors Traxxas-Tamiya to work with my Tamiya plug batteries. the traxxas battery with it has the charger and my DC-AC adapter does the trick. i need to put fiber tape and shoe goo to reinforce the slash body from the start before i run it. i learned my lesson with the TT02 fast on running unreinforced bodies and wall impacts. i have yet to open the wrapping on the slash and cant wait to do that in a few minutes.

I would recommend staying away from Tamiya connectors for larger, more powerful cars. It might be time to look at changing over your fleet to XT60 (2-3S) or XT90 (4S-6S). 

I ran the Bandit XL5 (coincidentally the exact same electronics as that Slash) last night and for something that owes me less than AUD$100 it was an absolute riot on my small track! 

1914641260_2021-02-1619_06_48.jpg.68d5715c0b5ae74ef80da70a121da9f9.jpg

82124690_2021-02-1619_01_56.jpg.4888419e580154b5b7c9f7b368883e4d.jpg

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16 minutes ago, lsear2905 said:

I would recommend staying away from Tamiya connectors for larger, more powerful cars. It might be time to look at changing over your fleet to XT60 (2-3S) or XT90 (4S-6S). 

I ran the Bandit XL5 (coincidentally the exact same electronics as that Slash) last night and for something that owes me less than AUD$100 it was an absolute riot on my small track! 

1914641260_2021-02-1619_06_48.jpg.68d5715c0b5ae74ef80da70a121da9f9.jpg

82124690_2021-02-1619_01_56.jpg.4888419e580154b5b7c9f7b368883e4d.jpg

thank you for the reply, i got those connectors to avoid buying more batteries than needed but given im getting a TD then maybe a 5000Mah traxxas battery might be an idea as i got 2 batteries for TT02 and 1 TRX that comes with the RTR. the connectors was a quick easy way for me to utilize the stuff i had. though Tamiya connectors arent the end goal, Deans is an option im looking at but im not keen on soldering the wires that come with the battery.  i got a better Traxxas charger setup now (ie battery->DC car->dc/AC wall adaptor) the traxxas-tamiya connectors might not be used that often. that being said i know that Tamiya connectors are good for lower electrical demands rather than higher ones so its been on my mind for a while. the TD will be the last RC i will buy (famous last words...) but a shell or 2 extra isnt of the table. the longevity of Tamiya connectors on the Traxxas was a concern??/worry on my mind from the start. 

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Got started on the chassis transplant and facelift of the Anytime Baby. At this point, I'll do a complete stripdown and clean up of every component, he deserves it.

Decomposition before resurrection!

20210216-123216.jpg

Always fun working on the Hornet.

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23 hours ago, mongoose1983 said:

Well, February got me back to the hobby, due to some pretty unfortunate circumstance. Still, I'm getting a a kick out of tinkering and running these things. The week before I ran the 1989 Kyosho Hi Rider, and last Sunday the all-stock original Clod Buster got all the attention from the people around. I told the guys, "wait & see me bust some Clod Buster myths when I turn this old goat on". And with the original MSC, cheapest Futaba servos you can find, a 1800 Mah NiCD batt pack, and a proper 1992 radio to go, nothing stopped the Clod to steal the show! If you keep the MSC clean and in good shape it works great. Anyway, here some photos...

GPKMa9c.jpeg

Y'all be safe and have a good week! :)

Where did you find/get the Corvette body ???

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26 minutes ago, Ryz82 said:

Where did you find/get the Corvette body ???

I got the body from someone in Switzerland, years ago. It is the original 1989 version. Unfortunately, the guy cut the rear wheel-arcs because he had it mounted over a Tamiya Thundershot chassis :(

2xyKo7v.jpg

You can get a repro body for this truck (minus the mock Engine) from TBG bodies in Canada. They got it all 100% correct except for the underside of the front part:

vintage-1989-kyosho-hi-rider-corvette_1_

 

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so my excitement has changed to SOP body reinforcement on the slash shell, the 2 sides and most of the top roof are reinforced with fiber tape and shoe goo the front end and truck bed have yet to be reinforced but i got a good 50% of it reinforced with 1 layer. used up the 3/4 tube of glue and started on the last spare bottle of it just now. does shoe goo have a commercial sticker?? cause most on my RC body shells (3 shells) have now the contents of 4 bottles of it once i have finished the last bottle i have. i might just even finish off the roll of fiber tape i bought or atleast get close to finishing it once i get around to working on the FD3S drift body shell. im leaning more to needing to buy another roll of fiber tape if anything...

i thought the body shapes of the GTR33 was annoying enough to apply the fiber tape and the glue, the slash has even more angles on it than the 33...

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5 hours ago, nel33 said:

so my excitement has changed to SOP body reinforcement on the slash shell, the 2 sides and most of the top roof are reinforced with fiber tape and shoe goo the front end and truck bed have yet to be reinforced but i got a good 50% of it reinforced with 1 layer. used up the 3/4 tube of glue and started on the last spare bottle of it just now. does shoe goo have a commercial sticker?? cause most on my RC body shells (3 shells) have now the contents of 4 bottles of it once i have finished the last bottle i have. i might just even finish off the roll of fiber tape i bought or atleast get close to finishing it once i get around to working on the FD3S drift body shell. im leaning more to needing to buy another roll of fiber tape if anything...

i thought the body shapes of the GTR33 was annoying enough to apply the fiber tape and the glue, the slash has even more angles on it than the 33...

Well at least you've invested your time wisely. When (not if) the Slash body is kaput, I recommend a Jconcepts Bajr body (version 1, the v2 is horrific). The reason is because they're tough, the exposed wheels mean way less parachuting when jumping and the curved roof means you'll end up on your wheels way more often if/when you roll. Also, 'Deans' connectors are considered a bit old hat now, because over 2S they're not very reliable. 

I got a run in with the SW-01 and the Q32 this afternoon, and lockdown is over tonight! That means 15 of 28 vehicles run in 5 days, plus 2 out of 2 quadcopters. Back to work tomorrow...

548091342_CameraUploads13.thumb.jpg.cc5f42e427b4b969bbe46b6939a55b66.jpg

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12 hours ago, jupitertwo said:

That Burger King design is awesome! Is that your own creation?

 

12 hours ago, jupitertwo said:

That Burger King design is awesome! Is that your own creation?

The stickers are NASCAR stickers from Nathaniel at MCI in Canada. Vast selection if you like playing around with schemes. He will change colours to suit. I think he can re scale them. The BurgerKing scheme was a a play on Madbull(cow)😂

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Nothing to do lately, cant attend the postal racing because of cold weather and missing body for the M05RA, I could use other cars but slicks wont do good at such cold weather, hopefully I am getting the M05RA body shell by next week. I like the track layout tho.

so out of boredom I started rebuilding yesterday night shocks I have put up for sale. Finished the Carson CH04 Nitro touring shocks 62mm with original yellow Carson springs. Dated back to 2004.
 

Now I will move on with the offroad shocks, basically inspection, new oil and add missing parts. Oil used is Factory Team  silicone shock oil 40w 500CST used on all dampers.

oZM3bAg.jpg
 

The CVDs on picture are not for sale. I need to put one of them together and they will be a nice upgrade for the FF03. The pin is retained by a metal oval piece impossible to take out??

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The result. The Hpi are alu-plastic see through. No way getting that threaded plastic I even think  it might been glued? 
the other came out fine.

PLFz8Ym.jpg

hpi

mBj5gH7.jpg
JQZU8M4.jpg

 

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Did some building on the hobao dc1 chassis and build the shocks for it 

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On 2/5/2021 at 6:43 PM, Robert5000 said:

Probably bad form to quote myself, but just thought I'd report back with the winner of the post race. Tamico get's the victory, no surprise really as RCMart has a slight geographical disadvantage and Modelbau Seidl didn't get off the start line until the day after the two others kicked into action.  

EDIT to say, well this obviously should've been in the postman brought me thread, but there you go. 

 

tamicodelivery.jpg

12 days later the shipment from RCMart arrived. A devastating win for Tamico, but still quicker than Modellbau-Seidel. So all glory is not lost for RCMart. 

As I dug through the tiny box I see that I've been blind and ordered both a MIP Monster Beetle diff and not just the rebuild kit for it. For the price I'm not expecting the TI screw set from Yeah Racing to be non plus ultra, but figured they were worth a try. 

 

covid relief.jpg

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