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@Wez-li - Ha!, just what i did this saturday (close to identical Screwbox), did also crab a tool-box for my solder stuff only, got tired off mixing it with my RC-tools 

edit: hmm come to think off it Screw-box sounds a bit nasty, does it not?

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12 hours ago, nel33 said:

Thank you for the reply, I know the slash is prone to rolling and a low CG  tray is on the list of thing in mid to long term. Lower CG and better stance look and sound great though if only I didn't get a TD it would be an shorter term goal.. That being said, I'm going to see how roll happy the slash currently is and learn from it. The body is a pain to reinforce, the 80 degree edges on the front hood make the fiber tape hard to hold the80 degree shape so I need to heap glue through it to make contact with the shell. I don't plan on going all in on the slash upgrades but anything to make it tougher and more stable, the RPM from bearing carriers are for when they break in the future. I like your idea on the alternative body shell, the current body is pretty much a coffee table mounted on a chassis, no offense intended. Having the alternate body to make it land on its wheels should be very useful. I saw what 1 medium hit vs concrete wall did to my TT02 shell, it might have only been a small 1 inch crack but never again will that occur so easily. What is it with the v2 body that makes it different from the v1? They look the same but material wise they might be not.

So I guess they have improved upon deans plugs  with different plug types, it worth taking a look at the xtc60

So the V2 is more of a "sand rail" design with protrusions - I find them unattractive but more importantly I think the added protrusions would weaken the body and prevent it rolling back onto its wheels. Be careful spending too much on a 2wd brushed Slash - you'll very quickly find yourself spending more than if you'd just bought the LCG brushless 4x4 version. I would enjoy it for what it is, then, if you love it go out and buy the better model and sell the brushed one (maybe swap bodies with the new one if your original one is stuffed and you've upgraded to the Jconcepts). That said, the tires you run will make a huge difference (I like the narrower Proline Badlands) and just replace parts as they break with a mix of RPM plastic and Traxxas aluminium (especially these).

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1 hour ago, lsear2905 said:

So the V2 is more of a "sand rail" design with protrusions - I find them unattractive but more importantly I think the added protrusions would weaken the body and prevent it rolling back onto its wheels. Be careful spending too much on a 2wd brushed Slash - you'll very quickly find yourself spending more than if you'd just bought the LCG brushless 4x4 version. I would enjoy it for what it is, then, if you love it go out and buy the better model and sell the brushed one (maybe swap bodies with the new one if your original one is stuffed and you've upgraded to the Jconcepts). That said, the tires you run will make a huge difference (I like the narrower Proline Badlands) and just replace parts as they break with a mix of RPM plastic and Traxxas aluminium (especially these).

thank you for the reply. the sand rail could make for a comical hair spike/plume though i think it may adversely affect the roll over correction LOL. the sand rail is an interesting feature but i can see how that sand rail can cause some issues depending on rollover speed and geometry. i know i might be reading a bit into the YT "essential upgrades" trend but my plans ATM end with the low CG tray and maybe some other shocks to help it remain more stable. apparently a bit of fuel line on the shock shaft to provide a physical barrier to limit shock travel helps in stability. not sure if thats bogus or just overhyped handling but it doesn't really cost much to try if you have the parts. i started with a TT02D kit for $340 in total costs and all the added stuff i bought for it has already ballooned mostly being spares and a few hopups... i did go a bit crazy on TT02 tires/rim combo 5 complete sets with different rubber/plastic tire compounds and plastic or aluminum rims. other things were common items for the hobby that are useful for other models. i bought a 2nd nice shell for the TT02 and got a free hardly used  M2 coupe body for newb driving mistakes.

i dont plan to do that with the slash, i know it may not handle as well as a 4x4 so i will enjoy it for what it is and upgrade what breaks. i got enough Gundam models and plastic car models not counting the RC kits im planning to own so my slash will likely be the only one of 3 kits. storage space is limited enough though a body shape to help roll recovery when the current one is done for is something im rather interested in. not too crazy about the body design but a good idea regarding for functionality to recover from rolls. i think 1 road/track?? drifter, 2wd truck and 4x4 buggy should cover most of my bases.

so i guess you advocate more for the solid caster blocks for the slash, not that its a bad thing. i did see some vids when rpm caster parts had enough flex that the shaft bent before the RPM parts went. it was a very interesting issue that came with some parts combo. i do agree the 4x4 may handle better but its not something i regret. i will be looking into 2.2 tires for the TD just to give it more options on road surfaces, those proline badlands look like they can do the trick and last a while. obviously id need some adaptors to make it work on the TD but if the same sort of tires work on both truck and buggy then its convenient for me. im still new to knowing which tires can handle most terrain and still handle the road fairly well.

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7 minutes ago, nel33 said:

so i guess you advocate more for the solid caster blocks for the slash, not that its a bad thing. i did see some vids when rpm caster parts had enough flex that the shaft bent before the RPM parts went. it was a very interesting issue that came with some parts combo. i do agree the 4x4 may handle better but its not something i regret. i will be looking into 2.2 tires for the TD just to give it more options on road surfaces, those proline badlands look like they can do the trick and last a while. obviously id need some adaptors to make it work on the TD but if the same sort of tires work on both truck and buggy then its convenient for me. im still new to knowing which tires can handle most terrain and still handle the road fairly well.

Yes, the aluminium caster blocks are probably the most essential upgrade, once the pin inside the plastic one bends your steering is never the same. Proline Badlands are not designed for on-road, but your stock ones should be fine for that (and their lower grip levels will reduce rollovers, too) and save the Badlands for dirt/grass. The stock shocks are great and do not need upgrading, but picking the right shock oil/preload/spring combo is definitely worth the time and effort. If you plan on jumping it do not get the LCG chassis.

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2 minutes ago, lsear2905 said:

Yes, the aluminium caster blocks are probably the most essential upgrade, once the pin inside the plastic one bends your steering is never the same. Proline Badlands are not designed for on-road, but your stock ones should be fine for that (and their lower grip levels will reduce rollovers, too) and save the Badlands for dirt/grass. The stock shocks are great and do not need upgrading, but picking the right shock oil/preload/spring combo is definitely worth the time and effort. If you plan on jumping it do not get the LCG chassis.

thank you very much for the reply. tire choice and shock oil choices are rather complicated in RC. so the stock slash tires are able to handle most surfaces with enough versatility without excelling om any particular terrain? tires are slightly easier to understand in my case but fine tuning the shock setups ie oil and spring choice is a bit confusing to me atm on how to go about learning the  details.  im sure i can figure it out with experience, ive had this same sort of confusion with adjusting opening times on certain components on work related equipment and im fine with it now. is there any tire that can handle both on and off road with decent tire life?

shock setups are one big mystery to me ATM. i destroyed?? my OG plastic rims/drift tire on the TT02 (CVAs/400 CST oil) on mostly smooth asphalt within only 10 minutes of combined run time. 1 rim was still good, 2 lightly cracked and one completely done for so i made the choice to invest in aluminum rims. i still cant figure out why outside of  maybe harsh?? /sudden turn/drift inputs why they didnt last even an hour of total run time...

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I think I just ordered a Sand Scorcher. Tamico said they have a delay of a few days which I assume means they have stock and delivery will happen in a few days. Also shipping is free, to the other side of the world. Fingers crossed

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19 minutes ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

I think I just ordered a Sand Scorcher. Tamico said they have a delay of a few days which I assume means they have stock and delivery will happen in a few days. Also shipping is free, to the other side of the world. Fingers crossed

Excellent!!  Didn’t know they did free shipping. Did you have to pay the listed price or do they take of the VAT? I’m guessing they don’t take it off. 

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3 minutes ago, Re-Bugged said:

Excellent!!  Didn’t know they did free shipping. Did you have to pay the listed price or do they take of the VAT? I’m guessing they don’t take it off. 

They didn't take VAT off but I figured the free shhipping worked out ok.

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Drove it. The term men cannot multitask is clearly a lie...

A0-E7682-B-99-E0-43-F8-921-B-C7-B80-DCB4

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9 hours ago, simalarion said:

@Wez-li - Ha!, just what i did this saturday (close to identical Screwbox), did also crab a tool-box for my solder stuff only, got tired off mixing it with my RC-tools 

edit: hmm come to think off it Screw-box sounds a bit nasty, does it not?

Yeah a bit lol

I need another box for parts now, my other ones are a mess! 

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19 hours ago, Robert5000 said:

12 days later the shipment from RCMart arrived. A devastating win for Tamico, but still quicker than Modellbau-Seidel. So all glory is not lost for RCMart. 

As I dug through the tiny box I see that I've been blind and ordered both a MIP Monster Beetle diff and not just the rebuild kit for it. For the price I'm not expecting the TI screw set from Yeah Racing to be non plus ultra, but figured they were worth a try. 

 

covid relief.jpg

Poor Modellbau-Seidel came in last place with their arrival today. To be fair though, the shipment had to make a detour from Modellbau to a mail forwarder, and then I opted for Czech Post instead of DHL, so I'm probably partly to blame here. Either way it's nice to be able to load up on some Super Astute and Egress decals and tyres. 

 

modellbau-seidel.jpg

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4 hours ago, 53HRA said:

Drove it. The term men cannot multitask is clearly a lie...

A0-E7682-B-99-E0-43-F8-921-B-C7-B80-DCB4

Now we know what all panic buying was all about last year. Where’s the 🍝 🤣

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Decided to change out the plastic bushing in the M05 ra, while building it I was missing two gold metal bushings and one 850 bearing for the gearbox. 
I found yesterday those two missing bushing and changed them now to all four being metal bushings, as I eventually will use it for rally I dont want bearings there. Another time I get bored I will open the gearbox and change the single bushing inside the gearbox with a 850bearing I have now. :D 
JzrqlvU.jpg

tXDHUdi.jpg

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I got the new 1080 ESC, did the changes i wanted and i soldered the 14awg silicon (nice cables) directly to motor. No its ready for Lipo :). I will run RC cars for my kids on the old Nimh batteries.spacer.png

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Did some body bulding todayimage.png.b7c5fce0a29dc00b85cf72e9dd5b57d5.png now I have a one pack:D No seriously I have had a bit of time on my hands  due to a chronic back condition. I get moments of activity amongst the haze of opiate based painkillers!! I was inspired the other day  by a post by @Raman36's sons VTA Camaro, and  I rememberd a project that I started and never really finished.  When I first got my TT02-S I had planned to do a multiple body build so that two bodies could be swapped around with little work. I used magnets and velcro but it never really worked. If I hit the slightest thing the bodies would pop off. So I put it all away. When I saw the Camaro post I realised it was the body and chassis that I had. I even had the VTA wheels though mine were black. I also had a very cheap Bay racing truck that I had done in NASCAR Bud colours. So I dragged them out and decided to give up with magnets just use body posts. So the first one is the Bud truck,IMG_2387.JPG.daf6aa2f37b608839e8c17cef0f354ea.JPGIMG_2388.JPG.f55ef2842e8baa89b27b37e5d4fc0aea.JPGIMG_2389.JPG.628618e5fd764db6bb04c1a2e3a9fe8f.JPG

Now due to the rear deck it has very short posts. The fronts are fine for both bodies. So I had to come up with a plan. Enter post extensions. These are Tamiya and come as a set with 5.5 and 6mm fixing. They can either be fixed to the short post with a body clip, which is what I did as I want to be able to use both bodies, or for a permanent fix superglue works well. This is the end result,IMG_2384.JPG.4866368f26fe9cb651bd936be8895ee7.JPGIMG_2385.JPG.5724e6e071effd117904714651b56aa5.JPGIMG_2386.JPG.27bde72d1916a7991860b4d289d06239.JPG

Having done this I realised I had another unfinished project the Rally Metro 6R4. This is to fit on the TT02-T chassis that I had. I got a free set of wheels from L&L when I bought the shell. I have a set of Belga stickers that I am going to combine with the L&L ones. The front is done with body posts but the rear is actually magnets. Difficult to see clearly as its unpainted at the moment. I need some red paint for the Belga scheme,

IMG_2390.JPG.0d04f0edd3853f4a01b9de07f7c44778.JPGIMG_2391.JPG.707a7302a9b03720028983dd78b1273e.JPG

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Found a couple of hours to spend on the TXT2 build today. Moving at glacial pace. Have come to the realisation I should try to source an electric screwdriver as I got pretty fed up with all the screws fastening the chassis plates. 

57B6D68E-F414-4691-AF70-10026205AF3E.jpeg

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On 2/16/2021 at 7:49 PM, lsear2905 said:

That is a terrible day - I hope you're OK.

Thanks mate, yeah tested negative. It was just a sore throat from being outside in the pouring rain on Monday. Got to be safe though.

Turns out my other tyre that i decided to replace has a repair done previously, and all the belts around the repair were frayed and broken, so good thing I replaced both.

Today I am going to list some stuff for sale, got a big box of ORV stuff, and no longer own anything ORV chassis related.

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Finished a solder job to replace all ESC and Nimh/Lipo batteries with XT-60 Amas plugs. I do not need all the Tamiya plugs/adapters anymore, i strangly enough is a bit attached to those because of childhood memories ;), but does anyone need this?. Have in mind i live in Norway thinking off shipment costspacer.png

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I went from this

2F3B6484-8686-4202-AD16-C710A3CD19E4.jpeg

To this

19C2B826-1AE4-4FDB-A733-B8921FD33ABC.jpeg

Pretty good condition other than a fractured motor mount  

ill swap out the 27mhz and MSC but i know nothing about TA01 chassis and even less about the hummer version. Any must do mods?

How is everyone cleaning 20yr old plastic parts these days?

 

 

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9 minutes ago, blofeld said:

I went from this

2F3B6484-8686-4202-AD16-C710A3CD19E4.jpeg

To this

19C2B826-1AE4-4FDB-A733-B8921FD33ABC.jpeg

Pretty good condition other than a fractured motor mount  

ill swap out the 27mhz and MSC but i know nothing about TA01 chassis and even less about the hummer version. Any must do mods?

How is everyone cleaning 20yr old plastic parts these days?

 

 

Ive directly see that Hummer Chassis due to long arm. ( and confirmed by the rims at background) 

I've ordered a Aluimium TA01 Motor mount, just before discover some into my Tamiya parts. 

The Hummer Chassis is a mix betwwen TA01, TA02 and DF01. The thin drive shaft can be change for aluminum version ( ordered too ) . 

 

About cleaning plastic parts, soap, tooth brush and hot water. Some Chemical soap is good ( CIF brand  in Europe ) as the one is used for the bathtub. Can be logical to use the same for Tamiya Bathtub ....  B)

You can leave it for 24h into the bath ! 

Some people use Ultrasonic machine to clean it. Never try on my side. 

 

I've planned to transform my Hummer into a Crawler, I've open a topic about that. 

 

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13 minutes ago, blofeld said:

Any must do mods?

Bearings, steel pinion, all-plastic gearset, alloy motor mount and possibly a sturdier propshaft of you are planning a motor upgrade. The bolt-through mod for the rear gearbox cover is also a good idea. 

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39 minutes ago, blofeld said:

I went from this

2F3B6484-8686-4202-AD16-C710A3CD19E4.jpeg

To this

19C2B826-1AE4-4FDB-A733-B8921FD33ABC.jpeg

Pretty good condition other than a fractured motor mount  

ill swap out the 27mhz and MSC but i know nothing about TA01 chassis and even less about the hummer version. Any must do mods?

How is everyone cleaning 20yr old plastic parts these days?

 

 

if you live in the uk what do you plan on doing with the msc and resistor

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1 hour ago, Charles M said:

Ive directly see that Hummer Chassis due to long arm. ( and confirmed by the rims at background) 

I've ordered a Aluimium TA01 Motor mount, just before discover some into my Tamiya parts. 

The Hummer Chassis is a mix betwwen TA01, TA02 and DF01. The thin drive shaft can be change for aluminum version ( ordered too ) . 

 

About cleaning plastic parts, soap, tooth brush and hot water. Some Chemical soap is good ( CIF brand  in Europe ) as the one is used for the bathtub. Can be logical to use the same for Tamiya Bathtub ....  B)

You can leave it for 24h into the bath ! 

Some people use Ultrasonic machine to clean it. Never try on my side. 

 

I've planned to transform my Hummer into a Crawler, I've open a topic about that. 

 

Thanks! Saw your thread. Am following with interest. 
I’ll start the cleaning then order some bits

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51 minutes ago, topforcein said:

if you live in the uk what do you plan on doing with the msc and resistor

Sell it to you😉?

yes am uk

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I was out giving my top force its fir run after a full rebuild when I crashed it full speed into this, oops:unsure: , and broke the bumper  off the bulkhead, I forgot to put all three screws in, it was only held on by one 

oops.jpg

crash!!!!.jpg

top force run.jpg

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