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i had to deal with a situation that was staring me in the face for a while, my lazy option to toss all my RC related stuff into my TT02 box wasnt gonna cut it anymore. a trip to Canadian tire, dollarama provided a solution. i got 1 plastic tool box new and got a good 2nd hand one from my dad that was hardly utilized, purchased 2 containers from dollar store and a small $4 fishing tackle box. i think things are slightly more organized now and i still got plenty of space left in the bigger tool box to toss in some tires and useful parts as a mobile tool kit. havent had to use the 2nd tool box yet but im sure i will find some RC related stuff to put in there eventually. there is a full gear metal steering servo in one of those boxes meant for the slash but its there until i go for a low CG tray or if the stock servo gives up the ghost.

i got my TRX aluminum caster blocks for the slash but will wait a day until the aluminum wheel hubs come in to install the stuff on the slash. so much for buying a slash to run asap as a RTR truck... im nearly done reinforcing the body shell and will be installing 3 hop up parts on it even before i charge up the battery and turn the truck/radio on. i blame RL and work for not giving me time to achieve some of these tasks. as for the pics the only new things are the 2 clear bins, fishing tackle box, 1 tool box, 2 bottles of shoe goo, the caster blocks and the electric tape. electric tape is infuriating IMO you know you have some somewhere but cant find it for the sake of your life that you need to buy more to be able to find some when in need.

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2 hours ago, Robert5000 said:

With my skillset I’m not sure you’ve got much to look forward to 😄 
Building something that’s not a buggy raises a whole new set of challenges, that’s for sure. 

Nah I'm sure its going to be superb! And like the old trusted saying goes "you learn by your mistakes"

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Worked on “ghetto-fying” the Thunder Dragon I bought a couple years ago where the body clips attach. New chassis, gearboxes, bearings, and gave it a good cleaning. The body is a wreck as you can see. Since the front of it is broken/cut off, I’ll have to find a way to attach it.  
 

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These came from RCMart:

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im looking into all terrain tires i can use on the TD or just to replace the stock slash 2wd tires. im looking at  Proline 119411 Trencher 2M2 All Terrain Tire, Medium or proline badlands 2.2. getting tires for the trucks are sliiightly more expensive than drifting tires. currently the trencher 119411 2m2 all terrain are going for a good price for a set of 2 tires so im trying to get something good without trying to spend +$150-200 on a set of tires for 1 truck. given how expensive they are i might need to settle for 1 complete set and a set of rubber/foam inserts for the time the slash stock tires get worn out. which rims are the ones to look out for? i might be able to save a bit depending on the cost of rims and rubber/foam if i purchased them independently. i have parts coming in to allow modern tires on a TD arriving tomorrow. the pic shows the tires mounted but i dont know if the rims come with them. what are the strengths and weaknesses of the trencher tires? i know the badlands dont particularly like pavement but maybe the trenchers might fare better. im probably gonna drive it on the road around half the time.

im sure i could look at non proline sets and save money there but i dont know how long the tires may last. any advice will be greatly appreciated. i prefer the trenchers for the slash 2wd but im not sure how well they handle on grass and im not looking for race performance as im keeping the NiMH and brushed motors setup.

 i did choose to go with the trenchers for the slash 2wd but the TD is still up in the air as far as options go.

BTW would it be a good idea to buy the aluminum shock caps for the slash shocks as spares for the time they might blow off?

Got around to near completion on the slash body reinforcement and pretty much ended up with previous day's amount left had to use the 2 I got. The first one I squeezed the wrong way and ended up splitting the bottom seal with half of the tube left. No biggie, embarrassing and stupid, yes. I just smeared that onto the back bed body shell to fill the rollcage shape as initial plan. That made small imbalance so I went to add more to the front to weigh it down with a 2nd layer. Its fairly balanced now and I'm content with it. I also glued one side of the rubber tire sets and aluminum rims for my tt02 kit. Been procrastinating too long on that...

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Revival entries submitted for myself and my two boys.

Don't know if they'll actually want to race when the time comes. They've never driven any cars on a track before and  I haven't even got cars for the classes they've entered yet!

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Had some unplanned free time and tinkered wirh my M05s.

swapped over the tires. As I decided I will the oncoming Fiat 500 body use on my M05ver2 with silver wheels. And I have black wheels and rally tires coming from rc mart for the M05RA. That means... I continue my search for a appropriate 225mm rally body. :D
 

also a nice clean and new oil for the 54000 shocks.

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changed from 5mm to 3.5mm front 4.5mm rear. Ride height.

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oiled up bearings and added two foam inserts.

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the M05ver2 is lower then a RA without tires :D 

so similar but yet so different front ends.

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using one piece lower arms on the M05ver2 from tamiya reinforced and RA lower arms from RCTech reinforced.

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Also installed on the M05ver 5mm hex hubs and on the RA 6mm hex hubs

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Watching the terrible grey, foggy and wet weather outside, the worst condition for any outdoor activity :(.

 

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Took one of the Javelins to the local indoor buggy track, little man in tow.

Well nigh undrivable on Brat tires or carpet. Drove somewhat better on hard compound Turbo Optima tires.

Then little man broke  a rear hub. This kid apparently really hates Kyosho Javelin hubs for some reason. Third one he's broken, first time in the rear. 

I've got a replacement, but it's at home. Seems our racing day is over.

We go home and I try to burn off my battery, but one of my other Javelins is acting off. Either the transmitter or receiver. Didn't get time to diagnose because wife had a string of cries for help.

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4 hours ago, Charles M said:

  @Teddy Ruckspin, @Quattro 83, @moffman, I've just saw that you have a Top Force, 

 

For my project French Hummer as Crawler , I need to get size/dimension/measurement of the upper frame of a Top Force, to design the chassis frame. , if you or anybody can give it to me that great. Thanks in advance. 

 

If this is the part? Its length is 16cm, width at the back is 4cm and at the front its 3.5cm thickness of the carbon is 2mm (hopefully that's what you need?

20210221_162052.jpg

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Unexpected RC fun today. El kid asked if we could get one of the cars out and it turns out one on the NiMh packs had charge. He chose the Hornet over the Dual Hunter.

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He’s getting more interested in how things work and we had a good look at the JK chassis. He really wants it up and running so that spurred me into putting together a new rear damper mount. 

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Using the existing ones as templates, two new plates were cut and drilled. The aim is to use the old and new together for greater strength - one sheet on its own was just too floppy. Might need one extra in the middle too rather than a spacer.

El kid pointed out that there isn’t a hole at the front of the body for the winch line - will have to remedy that!

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My wife and I went for a little hike in a natural park yesterday and again took a walk in another park today. In both occasions I had an RC backpack duly packed with transmitter, batteries, a buggy eager to run and even some tools.

Well, the conditions just weren't right and I didn't even get to unzip the bag, not yesterday and not today, so I feel a bit like an idiot :lol: walks were fine though

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oh well thats a bit confusing... im installing the aluminum  wheel hexes on my slash 2wd. started with the rear and the first one went on without issues, got 1.5 threads sticking out from the wheel nut, the 2nd one has only a half thread sticking out. the wheel hexes dont have the snap connections and the pin is loose enough in the hexes when test fitted so i just have to bottom them out but i have 1mm difference gap between the 2 shafts.

off to go install the aluminun casters and RPM front bearing carriers.

EDIT: stupid Traxxas for not having the back and from on the 2wd at teh same dimensions. i tried the other one in the set. i hit luck by getting the rear on the first rear tire but not so much on the second rear tire. tried to install the one meant for the front wheel on the back tire. i now have a proper gap on the wheel nut...

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1 hour ago, Ferruz said:

My wife and I went for a little hike in a natural park yesterday and again took a walk in another park today. In both occasions I had an RC backpack duly packed with transmitter, batteries, a buggy eager to run and even some tools.

Well, the conditions just weren't right and I didn't even get to unzip the bag, not yesterday and not today, so I feel a bit like an idiot :lol: walks were fine though

That happend to me everytime in the last two months. I took my several times with me in the car as I wanted to run it but everytime something fidt not line up and i couldnt runnit. :D 

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oh well that turned out to be a cluster ____. my mind isnt all there, i was hungry as heck, i didnt have any caffeine tired not 100% there. last time i worked on a model in this state i broke a tiny part on a gundam model as it was a rather thin raised V part ie  front dark green part on torso and it was around the same time of the evening ie 8pm. i clearly didnt learn a lesson AT ALL!

it was all going good, got the rear hex hubs on and started the left side caster blocks. the aluminum caster blocks were hard to screw in the hinge pin put with a adjustable wrench i managed to get them screwed down. i forgot to add blue lock tite so i took it off and missed the newly made threads. stripped the  newly made threads and tried 2 new hinge pins but no bueno to bottom them out. used a adjustable wrench and vice grips to remove the 2 hinge pins. this is the hinge pin to secure the bearing carrier to the caster block. thankfully i didnt do this after the other side was installed as id have run out of hinge pins so i was able to put it back together again with the 2 extra pins provided with the traxxas aluminum caster blocks. i need to see if i can re-tap  the threads on the left aluminum caster blocks with my tool that ii left at work. i probably should've left the hinge pin in without blue lock tight to avoid stripping the threads for the time being... i just ordered a complete set of suspension hardware for the slash now.  i got the traxxas caster block with RPM bearing carrier on the left side with aluminum hex hub and the right side is untouched. i will need to try this again when its not evening and im way more alert. 

in regards to working on the slash tonight, im just gonna go read a book as i got way too many on my read list and they dont require any sort of aluminum hardware.

is it always that hard to screw the hinge pin in to aluminum caster blocks??? i might need to order another set if i cant retap the threads. its also a good idea if i got all the parts in one place before i start working on the kit, i forgot i left the RPM carriers in the slash instruction bag. panicked for about 5 min looking for it as i already had the caster block removed...

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Took my super astute off Ebay😕 OMG it's been quite a long time since I sold something on Ebay and I was reluctantly going to sell my super astute to make way for my topforce evo (limited space in the man cave) and because of the expense help to pay for it! But I've had to take it off because I was getting bombarded with silly offers and numerous people asking how much I want for it and the usual "have you a but it now price" (if I wanted to do a "buy in now" I would of done a "buy it now"😑) if it's not what they want to hear I was getting pretty abusive and very negative emails!!!! Is this the new way Ebay operates now?.......you eather sell your item for next to nothing or you just put up with crazy people email you because they have the a#$e because your not giving it away? I'll give that a miss in future!

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18 minutes ago, moffman said:

Took my super astute off Ebay😕 OMG it's been quite a long time since I sold something on Ebay and I was reluctantly going to sell my super astute to make way for my topforce evo (limited space in the man cave) and because of the expense help to pay for it! But I've had to take it off because I was getting bombarded with silly offers and numerous people asking how much I want for it and the usual "have you a but it now price" (if I wanted to do a "buy in now" I would of done a "buy it now"😑) if it's not what they want to hear I was getting pretty abusive and very negative emails!!!! Is this the new way Ebay operates now?.......you eather sell your item for next to nothing or you just put up with crazy people email you because they have the a#$e because your not giving it away? I'll give that a miss in future!

It does seem that there are two camps in ebay - one that thinks it is ok to ask stupidly high prices for things and those that think that you are doing them the favour by buying your items, so you should basically give them away.

To give a little anecdote: I was selling a part which was only £14, and considering there were others for almost twice that price for sale I thought it was very reasonable. I had this one guy offer me £10 including postage (I was charging £2 I think) to which I politely replied, no, it's a fair price as it is.

A week later he came back saying that as it had been up for sale for a while will I now accept his offer. I politely replied no, but thanks.

So he replied with "ok fair enough. Relist it for £11 inc P&P and I'll take it now, thanks"

:huh:

So about your Super Astute. I'll take it off you for £50 if you throw in the Top Force too. Sound fair? ;) 

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20 minutes ago, moffman said:

Took my super astute off Ebay😕 OMG it's been quite a long time since I sold something on Ebay and I was reluctantly going to sell my super astute to make way for my topforce evo (limited space in the man cave) and because of the expense help to pay for it! But I've had to take it off because I was getting bombarded with silly offers and numerous people asking how much I want for it and the usual "have you a but it now price" (if I wanted to do a "buy in now" I would of done a "buy it now"😑) if it's not what they want to hear I was getting pretty abusive and very negative emails!!!! Is this the new way Ebay operates now?.......you eather sell your item for next to nothing or you just put up with crazy people email you because they have the a#$e because your not giving it away? I'll give that a miss in future!

In semi-related news I just gave a low offer on a nib Avante Black Special (via the make offer button just to clarify that.) To my surprise the chap accepted, so I guess I'll get to find out the differences, if any, between the first and second run.

 

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We had a super fun week-end and managed to take all the cars out at least once so now there's a lot of cleaning and some repairs to do. I went a bit too hard with the Lancia and hugged a curb, not sure what to do about that, either paint if I can find the two tones of blue, or buy a new decal set.

FqBeJNe.jpg

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2 hours ago, jonboy1 said:

To give a little anecdote: I was selling a part which was only £14, and considering there were others for almost twice that price for sale I thought it was very reasonable. I had this one guy offer me £10 including postage (I was charging £2 I think) to which I politely replied, no, it's a fair price as it is.

A week later he came back saying that as it had been up for sale for a while will I now accept his offer. I politely replied no, but thanks.

So he replied with "ok fair enough. Relist it for £11 inc P&P and I'll take it now, thanks"

:huh:

Hah! :D Did you dignify his last "offer" with a reply? 

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1 minute ago, Robert5000 said:

Hah! :D Did you dignify his last "offer" with a reply? 

funnily enough.....no :P

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