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I bought this factory painted WW2 body a while back and the driver figure bothered me as it is unfinished.

So I gave Willy some brows, better eyes, some blush on the cheek, wear on the suit, gloves, boot, and painted the buckles.

 

LEFT (Before)  / RIGHT (After)   Honestly I should've filed off the parting lines and spent a bit more time on it..but oh well.  Placed on my GF01 chassis.

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Weather finally got a lil warm, so I had to take the chance to work on the Superchamp body. A couple of years ago Nelson @Cooltoys sent me this fantastic Fighting buggy bodyshell to work on replacing the body of my original Superchamp.

As you'll see in the pictures below, it took me some serious elbow grease to remove the moldlines off of the body. This is something I'm not fond of in the new bodyshells Tamiya is making. The moldlines are noticeable more pronounced than before. And oh, I don't like them! Also, I had to correct the mods Tamiya made to the body to make it look more like the original. Pictures below:

The body all worked up. I've decided against using primer this time. I've noticed primer kind of takes away the final shine on hardbodies. But that's just my feeling about it.

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That's all the material I removed off the new shell. I hate moldlines, tube frames must be perfect! Also, what about that stupid squarish angle Tamiya changed the original sides with? No! That had to be worked on to make it good. See:

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And here finally the Tamiya TS-54 sprayed to it properly. I'm absolutely loving it! :wub:

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Decals will be applied sometime later. In the meantime I'm enjoying the look of this beautiful body with this nifty color!

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That's for now. :)

Y'all stay safe and have a good week!!

 

 

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21 hours ago, nel33 said:

Unfortunately that's not in my books, I got proline trenchers coming in relatively soon and a battery ordered. A LCG tray is somewhere in the medium term future for the slash but I'm just content having fun with its stock stuff. I had a full metal gear steering servo for it but it's now earmarked for the TD.  If there is anything I will spend my acorns on, it would be a vintage Manta chassis or a TA01/TA02 should I find the right deal. I want my Depth charge err Manta Ray but nothing is reasonable these days... The slash is good but it's size makes sto5age space interesting...

We did have a true shelf queen back in the day, a sprint dirt racer RC car. It didn't have a radio and back then I just thought the weight and sproingy metal stick was just for fun. Now I know it had something to do with a RC transmitter. It was a yellow body with silver or grey huge deck wing on top and one on the front end. I didnt like it's huge spoiler back in the day, still don't but it's a RC regret I just realised I might have. It was a hard body and I'm sure my mom tossed or gave it away long ago. I hope she gave it to an RC fan who put it to use... I'm 95% sure its gone as I remember seeing it stored away long ago then remembering that we got rid of it later on. It could've made for an interesting (butt fugly IMO) restoration project these days.

I was thinking it would be a small price to pay get your brother into it... and then you have something else to bond over. 🙂

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2 hours ago, berman said:

I was thinking it would be a small price to pay get your brother into it... and then you have something else to bond over. 🙂

I don't deny that it would be an extra bonding experience. He is a fairly busy person with his occupation so free time isn't the easiest to come by. He does have more current financial situations to take into aspect. His pay is pretty good but things like recent house purchase do divert attention a fair bit. It seems he is content driving my current slash for the time being. should it bite him harder, i will help him into the addiction. I do wonder how much more different a 4x4 slash handles but alas I went 2wd and am happy with that. The slash might be faster the TD or Manta Ray  but I don't mind. The TD is 4wd so I can then handle areas the 2wd can't. I'm sure 3 RC kits will occupy more space than I intent to allocate so I need to be more careful of future?? Kits size.

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well today i finally finished the resto of my 58100 top-force that has been with me since new and used in anger many many times.

as any one that own's one if these or a manta -ray the plastics are the first to go and that is what has been done here both gear box's changed

new front bumper

new all j parts fitted 

new threaded shafts swoped for same or used turnbuckle where cant get replacement shaft plus new ajusters

all new screws fitted either stainless for metal and tamiya plastic screws swoped  also

all brass and metal either swoped or autosol'd 

ball diffs are original plus gears also drive shaft original and original hop-up wheel hex's plus ball race still same from 1992 

original shocks still working perfectly 

original shell/wing/undercowl plus stickers

original wheels and tyres original steering servo

the original novac receiver and tekin 410 if about somewhere and i have to find them i do have a mri motor for it but i really dont want to put it in as it is nip

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Built my first ever set of Double Cardan joints. They now wear the crown awarded to "Most Fiddly Thing Ever" :lol:

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They're part of an M07-R, which is coming along nicely. It's a satisfying, precise build, but the use of plastic spacers on the centre shaft and wheel axles seems a bit odd, as is the amount of bearing that protrudes between the front upright and hex hub

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I just put the 2nd layer of ps 31 on the slash body windows. Might go for a 3rd layer but I want the black window lines to still shoe fairly well .  Probably going to tale the slash and OG body for a run today. The new body is far from ready to use ATM. I need to finish the tint and reinforce the body first.

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I logged in today. That was a first since last year :(

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15 minutes ago, NWarty said:

I logged in today. That was a first since last year 

Welcome back!

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So I got my used M38 SWB Willy today from Japan so decided to take a few hours to disassemble it and more importantly, disinfect it.  Since I did not want to turn the black chassis into a funky looking white ugly mess using harsh detergents, I used 70% IPA to disinfect.  

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It's from near 40 years ago so it has its blemishes.. which I like.

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Only real problem I found on the car was the long tube tip where the bearing goes on had been completely severed.  I've restored 6 used Willy's thus far besides a new build, but this is the first time seeing that.  Even the bearing was a little bent on the side.  Anyway, I have a bunch of LWB Willy parts and luckily it's the same tube on the SWB, so I swapped it out.

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Other issues were minor like one of the bumper spring was bent, which I fixed;  also the skid plate was bent, which I also bent back and resurfaced.  Whoever made this car went to town with threadlock so it was a royal PITA at times to take some of the screws off.. and grease... he or she nearly packed the gear box with grease.  lol

Took some Wenol to polish the metal parts.  Tomorrow I will begin putting it back together.  

 

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Had to hit the hardware store for a bunch of stuff today. I did accidentally swing by the RC car section (only toy grade of course, but still) and found out the ultimate RC item: a remote controlled SHARK 🤣🤣 🦈🦈🦈

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Didn't know they got this far, anyway the idea is awesome!

I later found myself slowly driving the Hornet around, wondering how well the sharkie would do in the fresh snow 😅

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At the end of the day, I better stick to wheels.

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I bet if there was an RC boat called ‘Orca’ sitting on the shelf next to that shark @Ferruz they would sell like hot cakes :lol:

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So my paint job on the slash wasn't perfect, I forgot to closely inspect for paint bleeds and smudges. It's not terribly visible so I can live with it. There were some areas the red wasn't thick enough and the silver backing came through a bit. I just took off the protective film to see these areas, was hoping the smudges were on the protective film, nope. Can't do anything about the minor black smudges but the silver backing was dealt with by lightly spraying the exterior of the shell. The thing will likely roll a bit in the future so some minor external touch ups will happen eventually. I need to cut 4 washers from juice box and reinforce it before running the she'll. 

I managed to do a 2.5x  front flip with slash in the park road. Full speed at bump gave the she'll and chassis a test. No serious damage. I really like how it's fairly robust, I don't stress over smashing it too much and the rolling thing is part of the package. there was a minor jouge where the curved road edge and sidewall sent it onto the grass instead of stopping it. It's bound to take some damage to front bumper so it's nothing to lose sleep over.

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2 hours ago, nel33 said:

So my paint job on the slash wasn't perfect, I forgot to closely inspect for paint bleeds and smudges. It's not terribly visible so I can live with it. There were some areas the red wasn't thick enough and the silver backing came through a bit. I just took off the protective film to see these areas, was hoping the smudges were on the protective film, nope. Can't do anything about the minor black smudges but the silver backing was dealt with by lightly spraying the exterior of the shell.

Didn't you know that's why they put stickers in the box? No-one's paint job is perfect! :lol:

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6 hours ago, Saito2 said:

Welcome back!

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2 hours ago, lsear2905 said:

Didn't you know that's why they put stickers in the box? No-one's paint job is perfect! :lol:

what are these "stickers" you are referring to?? it anything those smudges are personalized touches to the paint job to make it unique.

in all honestly, i really didnt examine the masking lines i did after i removed the masking tape. the smudges are more unintentional paint transfer as my fingers made contact with the black painted area when i put the red paint on. i should've let it dry for longer. im not the biggest fan of stickers unless they are to make it look like factory parts ie lights, window seals ETC. one side is fairly nice barring some minor paint bleeds on the black/red line the other has more unique marks as i held the body with my left hand.

alot of this was avoidable with more care but i cant do much about that now. the rush you get when you see progress on the paint job is very deceptive...

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Got a bit rambunctious with my Terminator Clod, so fixed these with some spares. Have ordered we Jconcepts Tributes wheels, then realised I bought them from a seller I really didn't want to deal with again (took their sweet *** time to ship last time).

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Washed the wheels, tires, and inner ring on my new to me M38.  The tires are in decent condition but since the chassis is not at shelf queen level it will be a mild runner and thus will run the repo tires.  I had to tire-hoard those repro tires out of HK before they were all gone since I arrived to the party late.  Not to the point I ran a small production lot at Pit Shimizu years ago, however..

Foam is in excellent condition with no flat spots.  The inner wheel is 90% salvageable (will need to see if I can torque the bolts without the nut spinning due to massive use of thread lock by whoever made this thing) the outer wheel will need to be resurfaced.  The screw heads were painted so will need to dip those in thinner for an hour or so..

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Going to begin assembling the chassis back together later today.   

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Dropped by the LHS for some PS5 paint, left with team associated 35wt oil and some of my orders. I only have a bit of 400cst oil from the tt02 kit so 425cst oil will be useful. I got my A and B trays for tt02, the parts I wanted were for the shock tower mounts but the trays have a few more spares for my kit now. The Jconcept 1/10 sprinter buggy tires are in, no news yet on the rims and rear tires.

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I got the chassis back together.  The left drive axle is slightly binding and that might explain why the long axle tube was broken on that side.  I will shim it later. 

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Since this is a mild runner I am running a 1060.  The resistors are just for show.  I should be getting the Bruiser transmission caps in a couple of weeks so will swap that rubber tube out where the resistor leads come out of the lid.  The one on the car tore apart so could not use.   

To make access easier I made a jumper Tamiya battery connector between the lid and ESC.  Going to work on the wheels next..

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Mocked up the motor and transmission for my Outlawcrawler project. Confirmed the FTX driveshaft matches the clone SCX10II geearbox, need screw to fix the motor to the plate.

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Over lunch I finished off the basic planks for the deck of the JK. Trimming and staining to do.

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Finished setting up the SWB Willy this morning with the refinished wheels and body borrowed from one of my other LWB Willy’s.    Everything checked out, drives 100%.   The biggest difference I noticed vs my LWB Willy’s is that the SWB likes to pop wheelies easier making on-throttle fast turns a little more difficult to prevent push-under.   I love the thing though.  :D

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Going to work on restoring and repainting the body next to match my other Willy’s simple military theme.  

 

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I picked up a set of flourescent yellow touring car wheels, proper racing slicks, and foams and put them together while watching wrestling. 

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Here's an essential for all ESCs installed inside covered tub chassis. A high RPM fan.

Because ESCs placed in enclosed areas build up more heat as it lacks proper ventilation. One of the reasons why some ESCs overheat or gets fried.

I found a perfect spot to install this one. Mounted on the MSC servo screw slot, facing directly to the ESC.

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