So, What Have You Done Today?

[Willy iine]

I set up the dampers on my Pajero this am and proceeded to test mount a winch. 

Will paint it later today.

[topforcein]

wilst cleaning my lunchbox shelfa i noticed the wheelie bar mount was cracked/split on the gearbox,, so order'd a new one the the other day and turned up yesterday so 

swoped it over today and back on the shelf  

[nel33]

got some progress on the lunchbox, going to do some weathering effects on the chromes pieces. the shocks arent the same length of the stock friction but it makes a bit of contact on the motor. i got the lunchbox  steering servo and arms. not going to use them right now as i will test out the stock arms and upgraded steering arm. the model of horn is the same as i got before but it actually fits the 25T servo gear! i got a black servo arm and silver/grey now. the amazon seller sold just he horn and spline set but the splines didnt fit even when advertised as 25T.  this new one had the splines actually fit and the arms will be a later upgrade, currently using upgraded horn with ball mounts.

[Willy iine]

I can really use those long shocks on my Pajero 5844, nel33!  My Pajero is running stock dampers with some friction material I installed this morning..
 

Quick easy install (winch)..

[Willy iine]

@nel33This is my CW01 which I think it is the same as your LunchBox(?)

I use to run this chassis a lot and the small  rear suspension axle springs  kept breaking after so many jumps so I made mine run a 3rd coil spring instead.  Hasn’t broken since.  
 

[Yoshimitsu]

Chipping away at my hill climb special homage. 

[Willy iine]

@Yoshimitsu That is some superb masking skills on the polycarbonate.  Nice job.  I love the color choice.  

[nel33]

1 hour ago, Willy iine said:

@nel33This is my CW01 which I think it is the same as your LunchBox(?)

I use to run this chassis a lot and the small  rear suspension axle springs  kept breaking after so many jumps so I made mine run a 3rd coil spring instead.  Hasn’t broken since.  
 

I didnt use the stock friction shocks but i did install shapeways transmission brace to keep the axle from flopping. I see you did reposition the rear shocks to be vertical, that's interesting. Might need that if things break on mine. It's a CW01 but the body will be stock dodge van painted in retro brown colors.

Where did you get that body? It would be interesting if a Kei truck body could go on that chassis. I dropped by LHS again today to buy dust weathering affect, the corners of the chrome parts are hard to scrub nicely with scotch bright pads. Some dust effect could hide that.

[Cynan]

Attached a few bits to the main body on my WW today and glued up some or Willy himself ready for painting.

[Willy iine]

25 minutes ago, nel33 said:

I didnt use the stock friction shocks but i did install shapeways transmission brace to keep the axle from flopping. I see you did reposition the rear shocks to be vertical, that's interesting. Might need that if things break on mine. It's a CW01 but the body will be stock dodge van painted in retro brown colors.

Where did you get that body? It would be interesting if a Kei truck body could go on that chassis. I dropped by LHS again today to buy dust weathering affect, the corners of the chrome parts are hard to scrub nicely with scotch bright pads. Some dust effect could hide that.

My CW01 constantly took a beating, but besides the axle springs breaking earlier on it’s been very reliable.  The 3rd spring maintains the factory articulation which is important on the car, I think.   The cups I used are Tamiya’s pinion gear setup cups.    The dampers are Tamiya’s budget oil dampers, but with TRF X-rings inside to prevent oil leaks.   
 

The body is a Tamiya kit body.  
 

@Cynan GL with your WW2 build!

[nel33]

i did consider a 3rd shock mod but the transmission brace works just as well to reduce flopping. less modification to install the transmission brace than a 3rd shock in my case. if only i can find a Kei van body body... though the design and custom stickers i got planned for it will make it one of a kind to my knowledge.

huh... i got a fairly serious issue with the motor clearance. just rotated the rear tire a bit and heard a knocking sound when turning the tires. how much can i bend the motor wire mounts  as i need to correct this before it runs on its own power? breaking the motor wire connection wont be the end of the world as i dont plan to use stock silver can on the TD2021 (sport tuned 540)

[Willy iine]

Nel33 You can bend it 90 degrees if you have to.  Just don’t reciprocate too many times.  

[toyolien]

39 minutes ago, nel33 said:

i did consider a 3rd shock mod but the transmission brace works just as well to reduce flopping. less modification to install the transmission brace than a 3rd shock in my case. if only i can find a Kei van body body... though the design and custom stickers i got planned for it will make it one of a kind to my knowledge.

huh... i got a fairly serious issue with the motor clearance. just rotated the rear tire a bit and heard a knocking sound when turning the tires. how much can i bend the motor wire mounts  as i need to correct this before it runs on its own power? breaking the motor wire connection wont be the end of the world as i dont plan to use stock silver can on the TD2021 (sport tuned 540)

On my Lunchbox I just un-soldered the motor wire and re-soldered it on at 90 degrees. Problem solved without bending the tabs.

[nel33]

46 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

Nel33 You can bend it 90 degrees if you have to.  Just don’t reciprocate too many times.  

thanks, i went to 30-45 degrees and re arranged the motor tie wrap a bit better. it clears the tire nicely now. i set the end points just now and it had its maiden drive in the carpeted hallway. i wanted a good left turn radius as the right side turned more but didnt want to stress the reinforced plastic horn or servo. its harder to set the end points on this one as the servo is the limit rather than the body obstructions ie TT02 driveshaft well walls. i climbed shoe hill with the lunchie  instead of actually moving them out of the way LOL. got to try some dust and rust effects on the stock friction bodies before i do that on the chrome parts that will get on the body.

i temporarily lost 1 drive pin on the rear when i had to put the tires on the right way to follow the directional pattern. it doesnt want to move much at all if its missing a pin. that was corrected quickly and located the lost pin. 

 

@toyolien that though did cross my mind, i will keep that in mind should it break or the clearance gets too tight. i still need to practice my soldering skills and learn my new soldering iron first. i will need to practice anyway in preparation to solder XT60<->Tamiya connections that relate to the manta, mostly for charging compatibility purposes (Tamiya charge plug).

[jupitertwo]

Bit of progress with the BRZ . A lot of stickers to place, so taking it steady. Also I need to locate the rear wing.

 

Popped a body on the TB05,as while I’m still waiting on the first choice esc, but I’m itching to get this out for a spin outside. 


Started on what might be the full time body for the TB05, thinking of gun metal to match a mini-z I have

 

Also stared at this box a little, but managed to resist for now. Perhaps if I get the BRZ completely finished, I’ll allow myself  

 

[Willy iine]

Ooo~ another A90 in the works, I see (jupitertwo).    I’m taking mine out tomorrow morning for a drive.  Her motor is a B58.  

[Willy iine]

40 minutes ago, nel33 said:

thanks, i went to 30-45 degrees and re arranged the motor tie wrap a bit better. it clears the tire nicely now. i set the end points just now and it had its maiden drive in the carpeted hallway. i wanted a good left turn radius as the right side turned more but didnt want to stress the reinforced plastic horn or servo. its harder to set the end points on this one as the servo is the limit rather than the body obstructions ie TT02 driveshaft well walls. i climbed shoe hill with the lunchie  instead of actually moving them out of the way LOL. got to try some dust and rust effects on the stock friction bodies before i do that on the chrome parts that will get on the body.

i temporarily lost 1 drive pin on the rear when i had to put the tires on the right way to follow the directional pattern. it doesnt want to move much at all if its missing a pin. that was corrected quickly and located the lost pin. 

Does your radio have EPA or travel setting?  If so, I use that to set the max steering angles.   My 20kg servos are quite big compared to traditional basic servos so on vintage cars sometimes I just can’t center the servo physically on the chassis and forced to use sub-trim and EPA to compensate.   
 

Agreed about the drive pins.  They slide off very easily on these cars.  Have fun with your car! 

[nel33]

6 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

Does your radio have EPA or travel setting?  If so, I use that to set the max steering angles.   My 20kg servos are quite big compared to traditional servos so on vintage cars sometimes I just can’t center the servo onto the chassis and forced to use sub-trim and EPA to compensate.   
 

Agreed about the drive pins.  They slide off very easily on these cars.  Have fun with your car! 

the Tactic ttx300 does have epa settings though im still a bit basic on those functions. its not the most easy one to figure out but setting EPA is easy enough when you know the setps. the dual rate function is still a bit confusing to me.

did you shim your lunchbox in regards to the wheels? i didnt like the side to side slack on the rear but 5mm washers fixed that on the rear and also the front between the bearing and lock nut.

[Willy iine]

Just now, nel33 said:

the Tactic ttx300 does have epa settings though im still a bit basic on those functions. its not the most easy one to figure out but setting EPA is easy enough when you know the setps. the dual rate function is still a bit confusing to me.

Dual rate just attenuates the steering angles evenly left and right.  You will want to set up the EPA first, then use dual rate if the lock to lock angles are too much for your driving environment.  

[nel33]

1 minute ago, Willy iine said:

Dual rate just attenuates the steering angles evenly left and right.  You will want to set up the EPA first, then use dual rate if the lock to lock angles are too much for your driving environment.  

thats the confusing function that i still dont understand in practice. the end points are set to a safe degree at the very least. i got the dual rate at the limit 100% i think. i do see that it wants to turn left when it gains full speed and i need to correct that. got the same issues with the slash but not sure how to correct that. the steering trim setting has been gradually corrected to the point where i i will run out of dial to adjust it.

[Willy iine]

23 minutes ago, nel33 said:

thats the confusing function that i still dont understand in practice. the end points are set to a safe degree at the very least. i got the dual rate at the limit 100% i think. i do see that it wants to turn left when it gains full speed and i need to correct that. got the same issues with the slash but not sure how to correct that. the steering trim setting has been gradually corrected to the point where i i will run out of dial to adjust it.

Usually when I drive my cars I have Dual Rate set at 100% (no function) unless I encounter traction rolling or the front end bites so much that it causes snap oversteer, etc.  

These cars that have huge bump steer can be difficult to align to make them drive straight.  It can be caused my many things.. including and not limited to servo torque (not enough torque to re-center), weak servo saver, front toe angle, binding axles/bearings, weight distribution while under throttle.  Given that your steering servo is adequate and pointing straight after each and ever turn, first thing to adjust is your front toe angle.  Give it some toe out and see if that helps.  If not, then your throttle is causing unbalanced weight distribution on the rear.  In this case, rule of thumb is raise rear right ride height on your damper since your car is tracking left on throttle.

[nel33]

31 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

Usually when I drive my cars I have Dual Rate set at 100% (no function) unless I encounter traction rolling or the front end bites so much that it causes snap oversteer, etc.  

These cars that have huge bump steer can be difficult to align to make them drive straight.  It can be caused my many things.. including and not limited to servo torque (not enough torque to re-center), weak servo saver, front toe angle, binding axles/bearings, weight distribution while under throttle.  Given that your steering servo is adequate and pointing straight after each and ever turn, first thing to adjust is your front toe angle.  Give it some toe out and see if that helps.  If not, then your throttle is causing unbalanced weight distribution on the rear.  In this case, rule of thumb is raise rear right ride height on your damper since your car is tracking left on throttle.

thank you for the reply. the suspension settings are also an issue on adjustments. i still need to learn the fine tuning of how these cars drive. its not that easy but i will get the hang of it eventually...

[ImALlama]

F1 body is finished, just waiting on some parts and then I can get the car done

 

[Willy iine]

@nel33 Yeah, it's all trial and error for me too.  GL with the setup.

@ImALlama Those are nice color schemes!

[nel33]

first time rust weathering so if you have to roast me then keep the temps low please. think i over did the side fenders a tiny but but i considered areas where water finds places to rest and take that into account. i took the Bob Ross technique and didnt worry about not being perfect to be to predictable. the rear bumper and front grill turned out fairly well. used light rust wash, dark rust wash and dust effect to remove some hard to scrub chrome shine i was able to get easily at.