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Since the new photo contest started on the main site I've been keeping an eye out for good sunny weather, but no luck so far. It's been mostly cloudy and rainy and now there's a thick haze everywhere due to some big wildfires in northern Ontario, whose smoke recently reached our area. An eerie, orange sun briefly appeared through the smog yesterday, it was quite the sight but nothing that could be properly captured by any of my cameras. I tried to find some good spots for a scenic picture, but as long as it's this hazy there's no way anything good will come out, colours way too dull!

Still there were a few good trial shots, as well as the usual fun. It was good to involve my wife for once, with the excuse of the pics to be taken :P as for the pic competition, I'm afraid I'm gonna have to enter something from last year though I'd love to go for something new if I just get a chance.

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@Ferruz Now that is some serious air time your car can achieve.  Nice pictures!  I can feel the action and excitement.  

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ran out of TS-68 off to the LHS to buy another can. the exterior is done and bottom lips of the body. a thin layer is on the inside already but no paint  left :(. off to spend money for a good reason :) .

Tamiya can still keep their profit margins if they just made 200ml spray cans.........

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@nel33 I agree that those TS cans are small.  In the USA they cost like $7+ shipping so they add up pretty quick.  But they are very good paints.   

I didn't get much done today, just glued the new Billy heads that reminds me of Kashira heads from Sen to Chihiro..  :lol:

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Also fixed the spare mounting angle as it was not completely horizontal due to how the bracket was designed (came with my car).  I made a diagonally shaped spacer to compensate.

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4 hours ago, nel33 said:

Tamiya can still keep their profit margins if they just made 200ml spray cans.........

I totally agree with that! 

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So it turned out my hunch that I purchased a 2nd can was correct, I had another one as I checked before leaving to that area of the city. It still didn't change my mind about visiting the arcades after buying some veggies at a stall nearby. Didn't visit LHS but I just got back now. The interior of the shell is painted and I need to correct the dark brown stripe. I haven't yet taken off the masking, hoping for clean lines and no bleeds.

I was one layer of paint short for the body, typical of small paint cans. They should make 200ml cans and 33-45% higher price of a 100ml can. We will still buy the 200ml if they ever make it...

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@nel33 Good to hear you did not need to buy another can.  Which masking tape are you using?  I use Tamiya's masking tape and have zero bleeds.  Might help to also use a squeegee to press the tape evenly onto the plastic body..(?)     Or might be using too thick of a coat?  Not sure.    

btw, Yoshimitsu and Re-Bugged are masters of masking!

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Got 1/4 blue masking and coremake brand with thinner ones.  I try to get the color in 3 passes, an extra 1 or 2 for touch ups. I had a feeling I would need 2 ts68 cans from EXP in painting the 1/10 bodies.

I'm HORRIBLE when it comes to lasr paint touch ups and patience. The top line had a bit of paint bleed, nothing huge but noticeable. Corrected 80% of it and need to correct the last bit on right rear corner. Scrapped away some fresh paint bleed with plastic pen cap, not perfect but will fix and live with results from it. I vow to just fix those 2 areas and move onto installing chromish parts. That scrapped area might need to be ecoliaed as painted rust area/bubbled paint. When I'm rushing I forget to press the tape in properly, I had a nice clean line with same tape when I first put brown stripe.

The tan brown touch up done, not gonna mess around there more. Waiting 15min to put dividing paper towel to touch up red brown. And the final touch ups are done, the paint layers are starting to add up so it's going to have to do. Need patience to wait for it to dry and reveal the work.

That red brown paint is a godsend for over runs looking at it. The body is supposed to look old so some brown discoloation/rust might happen.

I can't wait to mask the Manta body, I got 4 colors to put on and a few marked off areas.

EDIT: the body is pretty much done, not sure if im going to paint the lights or if stickers are included but i wont bother painting the window pillar. the chrome pieces are on and i broke the first item on the lunchie... the headlight installation is a pain in the rear. the first went on well enough with some force. had it lined up well enough. the right side didnt go so well. didnt line up the top tab 100%??? but the top tab broke. the front of the lens was still intact. a bit of clear aquarium silicon on the sides and then some more when its placed in the groove grills. wiped the excess off the surface and filled the grooves. dont think it will be falling out anymore. will take some pics of it in daylight but i like it. will go reinforce the rounded edges next on it namely on the top and back half as the front window pane covers a fair amount of space...

i just need the stickers for this to be made and it will be complete. will have to risk breaking the front A pillars in the future and then order another to paint the same way. the rear does have some paint lines where i masked the touch ups. a light scraping with my nail got rid of most of the ridge, still visible if looked at closely.

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6 hours ago, Willy iine said:

btw, Yoshimitsu and Re-Bugged are masters of masking!

Well, between you and me Artline, felt tip, and sharpies have covered up more than you’ll ever know 😉 

I do try to remember to burnish the edge of the masking tape with a finger in between coats as well particularly in panel joins.

 

Something you could do @nel33 is run some thin panel tape along the edge of the stripes if they worry you to much. Please don’t get to stressed over them though. Things that bothered me when first started, don’t anymore and it’s good to look back over some of them and compare them to stuff I’ve done recently and see how I’ve have improved. A bit of a timeline if you will.

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15 minutes ago, Re-Bugged said:

Well, between you and me Artline, felt tip, and sharpies have covered up more than you’ll ever know 😉 

I do try to remember to burnish the edge of the masking tape with a finger in between coats as well particularly in panel joins.

 

Something you could do @nel33 is run some thin panel tape along the edge of the stripes if they worry you to much. Please don’t get to stressed over them though. Things that bothered me when first started, don’t anymore and it’s good to look back over some of them and compare them to stuff I’ve done recently and see how I’ve have improved. A bit of a timeline if you will.

at this point its not a stressing factor. some oversight can just be explained away with creative thinking. the paint bleeds are fine with me, the paint job is supposed to look a bit tired/imperfect.think 1/4" masking tape was sued for the lines and 3/4' for coverage to block off areas i dont want paint on. i got more than enough paint on the brown stripe as it is so im not gonna push my luck anymore.

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Not quite today, but I painted the driver for the Super Storm Dragon shell, he came out looking a bit creepy, but I'm happy enough with it.

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@nel33 I think painter’s tape blue is too coarse for 1:10 models.  I use that while painting my drywall on my house.   

After I mask a line with Tamiya masking tape, I make 2 light passes over the mask to seal the paint around the mask.   This helps prevent any bleeds.  Then go over the entire car.  

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I took apart my trusty monsterized TT02B for a good clean and a full set of entirely pointless upgrades (yay!)

Hard black chassis

Reinforced plastic diff covers and arms (the aluminum arms will bend/break eventually I figure)

Stainless steel M3 screws (the stock ones are backing out after every run, especially at the shock towers)

Replacing some metal shielded bearings with PTFE

Aluminum battery standoffs and CF battery strap

Aluminum servo brace

new rear UJs to replace the rusty ones

 

Here is the 'before' shot (even though most of the above will not really be visible after it's been installed lol):

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Thought I was missing some essential screws for a build planned for next week.

Went out to the garage and grabbed the first random screw bag I could find. 

Yay! Metal bag A for the Hornet has the right ones!

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16 hours ago, vanpeebles said:

Not quite today, but I painted the driver for the Super Storm Dragon shell, he came out looking a bit creepy, but I'm happy enough with it.

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Great painting skills, I I love it. Looks almost real.

And yes, totally creepy!! Wouldn't want to race against him 😆

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took some pics of nearly completed lunchbox body sans custom stickers. might see what decals are with the kit for tail lights but its not the highest priority now. had to get to work so the delay in posting them is why im posting now. i got the full set of pics in the build thread if you want to see how the rust effects look like on the side fenders. i took 18 pics today and rather not overload this thread with pics.

also @Ferruz you gave me an evil idea with that comment but i dont know if its possible to accomplish yet. a Jason mask/Frankenstein racer mask from the Death Race series...

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IMG_Jul222021at123511PM.jpg.e7f33a890b8e1ef60ff9d3069c188764.jpg

 

Update.. one is TS5 and the other TS28.. still undecided on the cars..

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4 hours ago, Willy iine said:

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Update.. one is TS5 and the other TS28.. still undecided on the cars..

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Crazy how much detail you can get in the eyes ! I can't get even close to that. The brush is too soft and just smears the paint around when trying to work on such a small area. 

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10 minutes ago, rwordenjr said:

Crazy how much detail you can get in the eyes ! I can't get even close to that. The brush is too soft and just smears the paint around when trying to work on such a small area. 

Thanks.   I use Tamiya's standard modeling brush HF #87048 to paint the faces.  The black pupil and white reflection dots I just use a generic household tooth pick.  :lol:  Nothing fancy used.  

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Just now, Willy iine said:

Thanks.   I use Tamiya's standard modeling brush HF #87048 to paint the faces.  The black pupil and white reflection dots I just use a generic household tooth pick.  :lol:  Nothing fancy used.  

do you use the paint straight out of the jar or put it on a pallet? one factor that is making it smear for me is that its very runny. even after stirring it up. 

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6 minutes ago, rwordenjr said:

do you use the paint straight out of the jar or put it on a pallet? one factor that is making it smear for me is that its very runny. even after stirring it up. 

I do use a pallet to mix my colors, but depends on what color I use and viscosity I may end up straight out of the bottle.   I only use the basic colors (see toothpicks I used to stir) and just mix as I paint.  

Typically after I'm done my pallet looks like a mess.. I did not use the graphite nor the dark silver mix today.

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6 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

I do use a pallet to mix my colors, but depends on what color I use and viscosity I may end up straight out of the bottle.   I only use the basic colors (see toothpicks I used to stir) and just mix as I paint.  

Typically after I'm done my pallet looks like a mess.. I did not use the graphite nor the dark silver mix today.

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youre using tamiya paint right ? is it runny?

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Just now, rwordenjr said:

youre using tamiya paint right ? is it runny?

I use Testors enamels for the face, helmet trim, and the random camo patterns.  The helmet is Tamiya's TS laquer spray.  

I keep the enamel pretty fluid by adding thinner where needed.   I hate and do not accept brush marks unless intentional.  

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3 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

I use Testors enamels for the face, helmet trim, and the random camo patterns.  The helmet is Tamiya's TS laquer spray.  

I keep the enamel pretty fluid by adding thinner where needed.   I hate and do not accept brush marks unless intentional.  

oh okay. im using the tamiya paint in jar and its real runny 

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