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Finished painting the lightbuckets for my RC Arlos S14 Silvia bodyshell. The rear lightbucket has 8 individual clear lens pieces that have to be glued in place. Very detailed! Should I make a build thread of my bodyshells, even if they are not all Tamiya?

09-B1462-1.jpg

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I think I've just managed to buy something from a shop in Japan using a handling company! I guess I'll find out sooner or later! :) 

By the way, I noticed that there are a lot of restrictions on what countries are currently accepting in the way of post/packages from Japan at the moment, so may be worth considering before you buy anything.

https://www.post.japanpost.jp/int/information/overview.html

 

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3 hours ago, slydar said:

There's some cheap rere Super Astute parts around. I built the car up around those and some old Madcap parts, including the transmission.

Between discussions about reliability, parts availability, and the ratio's not being in a desirable range for the 17.5 brushless I wanted to run, I went with this.

I know about the Schumacher based printed one, but I think this works out cheaper.
It's Tamiya parts which I kinda prefer even though admittedly it's just bias, and it was a fun little challenge.

I slotted the 2 front mounting holes in the M06 case, and cut the FRP brace away as the 2 transmission mounting tabs now take up that space. 
Re-drilled the rear 2 in the Astute chassis. That's literally it. FDR with the 20t pinion is 5.8.     

That's really neat - thanks very much for sharing it :) 

You actually just given me a very cunning plan to improve upon an idea I had a while back.

I'm now looking up M06 parts :) Like I needed another project!! ;) 

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5 hours ago, c64orinoco said:

That looks aweome! Love the stoned-out panel van art!

thanks very much  and i would say you would know where that art is from ;)

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On 7/29/2021 at 1:15 AM, Juggular said:

Is that a MF-01X with portal gears? 

That is very well done.  

 

Thank You, It is:D

The portals are from a GF-01TR Monster Beetle Trail (which is now a 4wd Wild Willy) and more or less bolted right up to the little rig!  Considering it's more of a road car that can rally is does pretty good in trail and crawling enviroments, though I'm thinking that I may want to get one of the Holmes Hobbies outrunner motors and Castle ESC for it then swap my basic Traxxas 2.4 system and XL5 ESC/Integy 55t setup out for the DX3 I have in my SCX24 after converting that to the Furitec Lizard ESC/Surpass 1400kV outrunner combo at some point.

Here's a few pics from last night.

5B58473E-8299-447E-84D3-D79CEA5302B9.jpe3752617E-CF23-44CD-B5DC-D273281844C3.jpe99234055-385E-4009-978B-A484114BD1CF.jpe467C9331-898D-4098-AFD5-A68B5BCF2770.jpe9F72753B-AE3D-4F61-9B22-445D3A76ED89.jpe

 

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I am new to the Tamiyaclub and this is my 1st post. As a kid, I had the TAISAN STAR CARD Porsche 911 GT2 - and wrecked the body after a few years.

 

Today, nearly 24 years later, I completed the new body. I was lucky to buy the original decals on eBay. To cut and apply the stickers took me around 4 hours. So proud of the result.

7FF09628-5742-4DDF-BD71-288EF8F58C23.jpeg

039A9125-544C-4941-AA8E-E1E0145F783D.jpeg

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2 hours ago, Badcrumble said:

Happy Birthday @berman, that Swift is looking nice!

Many thanks! 😁

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1 hour ago, BJoe76 said:

Thank You, It is:D

The portals are from a GF-01TR Monster Beetle Trail (which is now a 4wd Wild Willy) and more or less bolted right up to the little rig!  Considering it's more of a road car that can rally is does pretty good in trail and crawling enviroments, though I'm thinking that I may want to get one of the Holmes Hobbies outrunner motors and Castle ESC for it then swap my basic Traxxas 2.4 system and XL5 ESC/Integy 55t setup out for the DX3 I have in my SCX24 after converting that to the Furitec Lizard ESC/Surpass 1400kV outrunner combo at some point.

Here's a few pics from last night.

5B58473E-8299-447E-84D3-D79CEA5302B9.jpe3752617E-CF23-44CD-B5DC-D273281844C3.jpe99234055-385E-4009-978B-A484114BD1CF.jpe467C9331-898D-4098-AFD5-A68B5BCF2770.jpe9F72753B-AE3D-4F61-9B22-445D3A76ED89.jpe

Your rig looks very very tempting for me to duplicate.  You are giving Tamiya good ideas.  And Tamiya should sell portal gears separately. 

Since the motor is in the back, is it not tail heavy?  

 

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oh god, what have i done again... been stewing on this for a while but decided to add a 6th car to the fleet when they are all built. NIB vintage Super Sabre. paid a decent vintage tax on it but it wasnt stupidly absurd. still a sizeable chunk of money $744 with tax. i considered a boomerang bit the blue parts and the body were not my cup of tea. now i need to order some spare parts to build and assemble the kit when it arrives. does the blue tamiya drive shaft work on replacing the coat hanger drive shaft? i think it does as the Manta had a coat hanger but the blue prop shaft works on that. 

i will now have a road/drifter, 2wd slash all rounder, the essential lunch box,  2 reres one built from separate parts and then the vintage kit sabre. i think i might fall for a comical hornet but its not screaming at me to buy a comical at this point. i dont have a crawler but im not interested in one to begin with.

i blame my habit of habitually saving and then splurging every once in a while. before ordering the Sabre i was only waiting for 1 online delivery and 1 set of rc tires. its weird to not expect some goodies and the items i purchase usually are RC related...

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@nel33 Congrats on the new car.  Always nice to have a unique car not so readily available in your collection! 

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1 hour ago, Willy iine said:

@nel33 Congrats on the new car.  Always nice to have a unique car not so readily available in your collection! 

thanks, im all for the unique stuff. its not really special if it looks like everything else out there. the body is ugly/unique much like how the TD was so different from the 3 other sister shell designs. i got nothing against the boomerang body, im just not a fan of the dustpan body lines. its the same reason why the top force evo body doesnt get my attention much. having space to store hobbies usually is kryptonite for me as i see an empty spot that needs filling... i had a good collection of plastic robot models for a long time then i rearranged them a bit to create more space and found new ones that could fill the gaps...

now im just ordering some useful parts. not going insane on the parts order but some smart selections or so id like to believe. blue A C parts boomerang (red paint can help), R suspension arms rear, F suspension arms ie hot shot series, they look like the same parts. 3x 48.5mm pins 2x, 2x 3x41mm suspension pins for the 38mm screw pins and a spare Flysky GT5 receiver to pair it up. i didnt yet order 3x3mm suspension pins. i hate them as 1mm difference is in sufficient and the filing of the arms is more specific on the boomerang chassis ie not solid oval but center and raised edges on the arms. i can blame TRF's super mega dragon for this to an extent, maximize the red and minimize blue, though im not hopping up that much LOL might compromise on blue prop shaft...

im hoping to find 3x 34-35mm suspension pins or atleast something that wont need 8 3mm washers. the 7 washer look on the 3x37mm to replace the 3x33mm is awkward to say the least. $126 for these parts ordered and its still cheaper than any used boomerang chassis on ebay but might buy a parts donor if the price is right.

were the Futaba servo splines 25T count back in 1987? i can easily order a lunchbox servo saver set if the tooth count is not the same as vintage specs.

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Body prept (sanded #240> #400 wet > #600 wet) and driver filled with some Tamyia putty, not the good one for small gaps... Need to find something more like plaster.

Ready for prime coat.

photo_2021-07-30_21-30-07.jpg

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50 minutes ago, Juggular said:

Your rig looks very very tempting for me to duplicate.  You are giving Tamiya good ideas.  And Tamiya should sell portal gears separately. 

Since the motor is in the back, is it not tail heavy?  

 

It should be surprisingly easy, if I were to do it again, now that I know what I’m doing. Just need the kits, tires, and appropriate motor to go along with what ever you choose for electronic ms and shocks.  Here’s my thread on the truck on here.

It is tail heavy too, that’s why the ESC and Rx box are shoved so far forward and part of I’m still using a NiMH pack in it. I’m thinking that one fo the shorter Holmes Outrunner motors might be lighter than the 55t it’s got now and torquier too.  I wouldn’t mind a shorty LiPo for it, but I’d want to try and design a more skid plate like battery retainer set and a front bumper that also acts as a skid and and would add more forward weight, but both being able to bolts into the stock locations.  I’ve got ideas and a couple quickie sketches on a junk mail envelope so far, but have no idea how to do any C.A.D. designing to make something printable (or machinable if one were to use delrin instead) with out using cardboard and scissors 😅

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1 hour ago, Goudar said:

Body prept (sanded #240> #400 wet > #600 wet) and driver filled with some Tamyia putty, not the good one for small gaps... Need to find something more like plaster.

Ready for prime coat.

photo_2021-07-30_21-30-07.jpg

Are you planning on spraying Tamiya’s TS laquer?   #600 might give you a brushed appearance as it shrinks unless a worn out sanding sponge equivalent to 1000+.  I use a somewhat worn #1000-1500 for final step before paint and between coats when I need to touch up a blemish or two or three.. or more.  :lol:

I usually use a blob of Tamiya standard plastic cement on the driver figure to close the gaps and hold the pieces together by hand with light to moderate pressure for 12-15 minutes.     I use the basic Tamiya putty as well when necessary, but most often on the driver figure cement does the trick for me.  

GL with the painting.   

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@nel33 The splines were 25T for Futaba.  Earlier ones were a square (?).    I see those from time to time when I buy used M38’s for restore.   

I always (except for my one shelf queen) swap out the electronics though with modern servos, ESC, receiver.  

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@Willy iine Hmm thanks. I would like to try something for this body, more punchy. With those cool curves.

I may post something about this new build. I found some cool hop ups for this nice lady and a bit of expirement with all decals/paint job.

 

It's my first try with candy color, I appreciate every tips you find usefull. ;)

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7 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

@nel33 The splines were 25T for Futaba.  Earlier ones were a square (?).    I see those from time to time when I buy used M38’s for restore.   

I always (except for my one shelf queen) swap out the electronics though with modern servos, ESC, receiver.  

thank you for the reply, the 25T will work well with the 20kg metal gear digital servo i will order for it. still have basics to order but some harder/rarer parts are ordered.

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Just now, nel33 said:

thank you for the reply, the 25T will work well with the 20kg metal gear digital servo i will order for it. still have basics to order but some harder/rarer parts are ordered.

I use those cheepo violet colored Chinese 20kg digital servos sold at Amazon because at the end of the day they work very well on my M38’s despite being super cheap.  :lol:  And I don’t need the super high speed or anything as I’m too slow anyways.  I like the high torque and digital accuracy of returning the steering to center.   They work better than the more expensive “high torque” servo’s I’ve tried on my M38’s.

IMG_Jul272021at45508PM.jpg.642dd6e1a5a75a27b8eb4528fdb5d95c.jpg

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5 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

I use those cheepo violet colored Chinese 20kg digital servos sold at Amazon because at the end of the day they work very well on my M38’s despite being super cheap.  :lol:  And I don’t need the super high speed or anything as I’m too slow anyways.  I like the high torque and digital accuracy of returning the steering to center.   They work better than the more expensive “high torque” servo’s I’ve tried on my M38’s.

IMG_Jul272021at45508PM.jpg.642dd6e1a5a75a27b8eb4528fdb5d95c.jpg

my pick of poison is Smraza brand, its likely an off-brand?? and likely made in china also LOL. they are $20 or so and 25T. these have served me well, not the fastest servo but functional.

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Finished painting the shell for my ScX10iii today. Too late to get any photos of it.

I enjoyed the painting process and even had success placing the window masks pretty much where they were meant to go.

I knew I was risking it going for a black hard top on a yellow body and, sure enough, I’d not managed to clean where the black had got through my masking effort in a couple of places. 

Each body I paint is a learning process and I feel like I’m slowly getting better at it. This time I tried plasticine to block holes (I also used it on the Mini pick up to block out the headlights) and cutting the overspray film so I could use matte clear on the roof and both techniques worked well.

Now I need to paint the interior so I can start on the chassis build.

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@berman

Do you think you could share the colour you used on the swift, that looks so good!

Small possibility I have some shells on the way again!

Thanks

nick

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I'm about done with the 5800kv Blitzer. I've decided I won't be painting it because it will be a runner, but I will apply the stickers.

2021-07-31-01-40-35.jpg

2021-07-31-01-40-02.jpg

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1 hour ago, nel33 said:

my pick of poison is Smraza brand, its likely an off-brand?? and likely made in china also LOL. they are $20 or so and 25T. these have served me well, not the fastest servo but functional.

Yeah, the ones I use is like $50 for a pack of 4. It's dirt cheap stuff, but as you said, it's functional and has been very reliable so why not?  Of course it would be cool to use some fancy high-end $350 servo for vanity factor, but the M38 chassis is enclosed/bump steer fever.. why would I use that when a $12 no-brand servo can do the same thing..  I have like 20 of them and none has failed me yet and very accurate performance on the cars.   

@DeadMeat666 Nice looking car you got there!

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41 minutes ago, DeadMeat666 said:

I'm about done with the 5800kv Blitzer. I've decided I won't be painting it because it will be a runner, but I will apply the stickers.

2021-07-31-01-40-35.jpg

Goodbye back tyres 👋🏻👋🏻👋🏻, that’s the last time you’ll see them like that 😆

Those Black body shells buff up nice just with some automotive polish, there’s a few around that are plastic safe, but I have a sneaking suspicion that the motor will end doing more damage than any polish would. Enjoy it.

Edit :- Just keep an eye on the suspension arm screw pins as the have a habit of backing out. 

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