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All the rain in south Germany prevents my friends and me from driving…

In the last couple of days I wanted to work on my cars, but found nothing more to do, so I decided to build my first TT01 chassis. An Audi A4 btcc kit, that I bought nearly a year ago (TT01 kits are very affordable at the moment here with prices below 80€ including motor, esc and body set).

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The build was nice. Compared to the TT02 it has its ups and downs. I enjoyed it:

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Coming to the body, I wasn’t in the mood to mask and paint. My old M3 now has this chassis and a place on the shelf:

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Then yesterday, I felt sorry for my Tamiya Euro Cup (Gentleman class) TT02. It became a very nice full hop-up car last summer (as seen on „thercracer.com“), but then had to give away a lot of parts for my other projects (KR-mf and TT02 KR). So when it stood on the shelf without front axle and all sad, I took it and went through all my spare parts and even exchanged parts from other chassis to complete it as far as possible:

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And that worked pretty well. Still some parts missing (damper and electronics). These are ordered and will be added in the coming days. If everything goes according to plan, I will use it in a friendship race in two weeks.

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Morning folks,

Finally got around to painting/decaling the body for my Terra Conqueror. They're reproductions since I didn't want to use my NOS body set, but I'm happy with MCI Decals and Team Blue Groove as usual!

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I fitted a pair of 55mm Yeah Racing Big Bore Go shocks to my refurbished Rough Rider. Thanks to whoever on this forum suggested this - one question though - as part of the process of fitting the shocks, you remove the torsion bar - does this have any negative impact on the chassis? Does the torsion bar stiffen and strengthen the chassis as well as providing the spring for the rear suspension?

I was thinking of some 70mm shocks for the front as well but the Yeah Racing ones are too wide to fit past the front arms. I have found some internally sprung shocks but I think I will see how the back is first.

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I've been making sloooow progress on restoring a sad looking hotshot I bought on ebay. I'm trying to keep the original look but with independent suspension... quite a pain to make it all fit!

hotshot1.thumb.jpg.f0bdadde2e551e18fecd2e9c10a7c3f6.jpg

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3 minutes ago, RizFiz said:

I've been making sloooow progress on restoring a sad looking hotshot I bought on ebay. I'm trying to keep the original look but with independent suspension... quite a pain to make it all fit.

That is cool!

This will be a pullrod in front?

Waiting for more pictures :)

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Just now, wtcc5 said:

That is cool!

This will be a pullrod in front?

Waiting for more pictures :)

Yep- It would have been so much easier if I could work out how to get pushrod to work well, but without adding holes into the front arms I couldn't work out how! So it's pullrod, and I'm going to have fun trying to fit in the esc above the battery :unsure:

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1 hour ago, RizFiz said:

I've been making sloooow progress on restoring a sad looking hotshot I bought on ebay. I'm trying to keep the original look but with independent suspension... quite a pain to make it all fit!

hotshot1.thumb.jpg.f0bdadde2e551e18fecd2e9c10a7c3f6.jpg

Those are cool wheels!  Info???

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24 minutes ago, Frog Jumper said:

Those are cool wheels!  Info???

The original wheels it came with were quite badly buckled.. a few too many kerb interactions I guess! So it's just them with the center replaced with an aluminium disc to take out the wheel wobble. I quite like the look, but might update it a bit so the aluminium center is a little bit bigger. 

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The F104 chassis is complete, what a pleasure it was to restaure/build. Next up is electronics, wings, setup and finally chassis protector. Can't wait to enter it in postal racing, seems doable for this month's round.

PXL_20210803_211104097.jpg

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11 hours ago, wtcc5 said:

(as seen on „thercracer.com“)

That was you! Amazing project 👍

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@Pylon80 Thanks!

The F104v2 is my favorite F1 chassis. I hope you will win with it ;)

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Swapped out the electronics on my junk RTR… I could spend more time on it, but why.. :lol:

Before..

IMG_Aug32021at51537PM.jpg.1988c65ed76420804a5c1a7918046788.jpg

New servo mount posts.. the servo is a 5 pin :blink: and too lazy to figure out which wires were to be used so tossed it in the trash.  Also this motor is weird.. it does not brake consistently and jumps to reverse for some reason..PCB is on the outside of the endbell.. tossed in trash.

IMG_Aug32021at51551PM.jpg.d31caa0fb94d75807fc4a82dcbc31b7a.jpg

Final..  I did not want to cut the Tamiya connector off the 1060 so just made an adapter using the RTR’s ESC’s fake Deans..ESC also went in the trash.  The car runs off 1:18 Lipo so instead of spending time converting to standard NiMH, decided to just run Lipo. 

IMG_Aug32021at51600PM.jpg.5faf5f07feeff4fedcb9f0c15b3ff2e3.jpg

The car actually drives pretty nice..

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tried my hand at soldering, 12 AWG or slightly thinner wire onto tamiya connectors is annoying as heck. didnt have the proper tools nearby for the task so it made things more annoying. will need to get the right tools on hand before i try to solder it to the connector first.

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37 minutes ago, nel33 said:

tried my hand at soldering, 12 AWG or slightly thinner wire onto tamiya connectors is annoying as heck. didnt have the proper tools nearby for the task so it made things more annoying. will need to get the right tools on hand before i try to solder it to the connector first.

Why not just get the Tamiya connector hardware and Molex crimp tool?  It's really easy to make the connector and no soldering needed.  

I made this adapter today.. 2 min?

IMG_Aug32021at85047PM.jpg.536fe642bfeb63464d0f02a822968eab.jpg

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21 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

Why not just get the Tamiya connector hardware and Molex crimp tool?  It's really easy to make the connector and no soldering needed.  

i should consider that, the other side will be Xt60 i do have traditional crimp channel locks that could also work?? i dont think there is a way to escape soldering the Xt60 parts or maybe there is? what about cold crimping the wires to the tamiya then adding a bit of solder? i need a good secure and safe connection. one set will be to charge the XT60 connector battery though it also has traxxas connector (non ESC connector) that could be used for that. the other adapter will be to use tamiya connector batteries to the HW1080.

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Picked up these from the other hobby shop... :ph34r:

mArLRFf.jpg

 

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2 hours ago, nel33 said:

i should consider that, the other side will be Xt60 i do have traditional crimp channel locks that could also work?? i dont think there is a way to escape soldering the Xt60 parts or maybe there is? what about cold crimping the wires to the tamiya then adding a bit of solder? i need a good secure and safe connection. one set will be to charge the XT60 connector battery though it also has traxxas connector (non ESC connector) that could be used for that. the other adapter will be to use tamiya connector batteries to the HW1080.

The Tamiya connectors use a pretty thin crimp area so if your Channel-Lock brand one is thin, then it should work.  I have several crimpers for automotive use (stereo/radar detector/air horn/accessories hard wire, etc,  etc), that are too thick, so I bought a crimper made for Molex connectors to do the Tamiya connectors (this includes the battery connectors and the motor wire connectors typically found on the 1060's, TBLE02S's, etc). 

I personally only use Tamiya connectors and Deans, and some banana connectors so haven't had to solder the connector you posted.

As for soldering the crimp area, it is not necessary.  If you crimp it correctly the wire will not slip off the connectors unless you tug it so hard that the connector breaks.

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13 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

The Tamiya connectors use a pretty thin crimp area so if your Channel-Lock brand one is thin, then it should work.  I have several crimpers for automotive use (stereo/radar detector/air horn/accessories hard wire, etc,  etc), that are too thick, so I bought a crimper made for Molex connectors to do the Tamiya connectors (this includes the battery connectors and the motor wire connectors typically found on the 1060's, TBLE02S's, etc). 

I personally only use Tamiya connectors and Deans, and some banana connectors so haven't had to solder the connector you posted.

As for soldering the crimp area, it is not necessary.  If you crimp it correctly the wire will not slip off the connectors unless you tug it so hard that the connector breaks.

thank you for the reply, i do have some thin channel locks more specifically the wire strippers thin tip. im making 2 sets of each as im havent tried soldering the xt60 connectors yet. my co worker has  the molex type. does the soldered wire tip need to be hot or would cold/dried coat bond properly with the new solder?

im choosing xt60 simply because i dont want to cut off the 1080 battery connector.

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5 minutes ago, nel33 said:

thank you for the reply, i do have some thin channel locks more specifically the wire strippers thin tip. im making 2 sets of each as im havent tried soldering the xt60 connectors yet. my co worker has  the molex type. does the soldered wire tip need to be hot or would cold/dried coat bond properly with the new solder?

I always heat the wires hot before I apply solder.  Cold solder can cause a mess of problems including poor adhesion and uneven spread.  The idea is to get the wire hot in the least amount of time (to prevent the wire jacket or your connector from melting) and apply solder.  

I sometimes use alligator clips as heat sink to direct heat away from the area I just soldered.

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1 minute ago, Willy iine said:

I always heat the wires hot before I apply solder.  Cold solder can cause a mess of problems including poor adhesion and uneven spread.  The idea is to get the wire hot in the least amount of time (to prevent the wire jacket or your connector from melting) and apply solder.  

I sometimes use alligator clips as heat sink to disperse the heat away from the area I just soldered.

thank you for the reply, i clearly will need to practice that a bit as getting the wires to temp will be tricky.

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Just now, nel33 said:

thank you for the reply, i clearly will need to practice that a bit as getting the wires to temp will be tricky.

If you are soldering heavy gauge wire you can file off the tip of the soldering iron to get a larger heating surface.  For example, when I make battery packs I need a lot of heat to solder the tabs in the shortest amount of time so I use a solder tip I cut and filed for a stubby large surface.  It almost looks like a tip of a large flat-head screw driver.  It provides a lot more heat in a short amount of time vs using the same iron with a narrow or fine/long tip.

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1 minute ago, Willy iine said:

If you are soldering heavy gauge wire you can file off the tip of the soldering iron to get a larger heating surface.  For example, when I make battery packs I need a lot of heat to solder the tabs in the shortest amount of time so I use a solder tip I cut and filed for a stubby large surface.  It almost looks like a tip of a large flat-head screw driver.  It provides a lot more heat in a short amount of time vs using the same iron with a narrow or fine/long tip.

the one i got has 5 extra tips, one is more wide and broad, i need to figure out how to swap the tip out first for that. currently using long flat thin one but will dig deeper into the other tips for the xt60 connectors, the fine tip takes too long...

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@nel33 Holmes Hobbies has some good soldering videos on you tube if you would like any general how tos, I watched them a few times then had a go at soldering motor wires - bullets at one end, direct to the motor at the other. It worked and wasn’t too untidy so I was quite pleased for a first go.

Battery connectors - XT60s - are my next adventure.

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