Jump to content
Badboy

So, What Have You Done Today?

Does the club need more member blogs...  

361 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

14 hours ago, nel33 said:

the one i got has 5 extra tips, one is more wide and broad, i need to figure out how to swap the tip out first for that. currently using long flat thin one but will dig deeper into the other tips for the xt60 connectors, the fine tip takes too long...

Usually the tips are just held in place by a grub screw or a regular screw on the side of the heater core barrel (or what that portion is called).. you loosen it and just pulls out.  Otherwise some tips are just screwed into the heating core.   Definitely try filing the tip so that you have at least a good 3-5mm heating tip.  

 

For me, I bought another SandScorcher today NIB along with 2 ball diff sets.  The first one is arriving hopefully tomorrow.  I plan to build one of them and the other to be kept on display.  Honestly I wanted the original vintage one to keep NIB, but could not find one in a nice box under $2K.

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The last parts arrived ^_^

I added the dampers and solved the problem with the rear body posts. In hindsight it was easy, but I didn’t know that the front body posts come in two length -_- I randomly discovered that when looking at my TT-02 Type S Impreza.

The electronics with the little receiver also fit very nice.

794c1362-a9a6-4865-897j0o.jpeg

be1b36fd-ac46-4330-9qijtg.jpeg

74af5b31-e06b-4b0f-9omkdy.jpeg

b01ad16e-543b-4e89-azqjqj.jpeg

4ba823d2-54eb-4852-b5akkx.jpeg

  • Like 10

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fitted one set of the m-chassis dampers to my #1 M05, and removed the CVAs and put them on my MF-01x escort.

The other set will go on my M-four, because it is missing the rears, which the previous owner replaced with some generic alloy cheap ones which are too long.

gRIDFT4.jpg

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, wtcc5 said:

The last parts arrived ^_^

I added the dampers and solved the problem with the rear body posts. In hindsight it was easy, but I didn’t know that the front body posts come in two length -_- I randomly discovered that when looking at my TT-02 Type S Impreza.

The electronics with the little receiver also fit very nice.

794c1362-a9a6-4865-897j0o.jpeg

be1b36fd-ac46-4330-9qijtg.jpeg

74af5b31-e06b-4b0f-9omkdy.jpeg

b01ad16e-543b-4e89-azqjqj.jpeg

4ba823d2-54eb-4852-b5akkx.jpeg

Is that ESC a 1080 painted black? Including the wires? 🧐 Those electronics are looking very clean!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Usually the tips are just held in place by a grub screw or a regular screw on the side of the heater core barrel (or what that portion is called).. you loosen it and just pulls out.  Otherwise some tips are just screwed into the heating core.   Definitely try filing the tip so that you have at least a good 3-5mm heating tip.  

 

For me, I bought another SandScorcher today NIB along with 2 ball diff sets.  The first one is arriving hopefully tomorrow.  I plan to build one of them and the other to be kept on display.  Honestly I wanted the original vintage one to keep NIB, but could not find one in a nice box under $2K.

There was a simple core barrel?? Fitting to remove the sleeve and just lift off the tip. Will need to file it a bit, the 2mm angle are the sweet spot for the heat...

20 hours ago, Badcrumble said:

@nel33 Holmes Hobbies has some good soldering videos on you tube if you would like any general how tos, I watched them a few times then had a go at soldering motor wires - bullets at one end, direct to the motor at the other. It worked and wasn’t too untidy so I was quite pleased for a first go.

Battery connectors - XT60s - are my next adventure.

I did look at some YT vids on good tips to solder wires. Some proved to be less helpful simply because my choice of 12 gauge wire made clearances a bit too tight. 14 awg wire might have made some tips more useful but 12 AWG is the max i could use. It's just slightly undersized for the max can of the xt60 connectors, 10 gauge wire won't fit but 12 is the limit. With some minimal pre-soldering I could fit the hot wires into the cans but if they dry too fast or just slightly too thick, they won't enter the can. Some trial and error proved flux on the wire and connector as heat transfer medium does the trick.

I made sure to know which connectors and wire insert plugs I needed but forgot to verify if positive or negative went on which. Only when it was all done it occurred to me. I got the 50/50 percent result correct. I need mollex crimplers, the mollem crimpers were great. One co worker had them and I need to find a set online now, not gonna bother soldering Tamiya wire crimps anymore.  

Speaking of motor plugs, gotta order , some, the 1080 doesn't have then on the motor wires.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I built the other m-chassis dampers for the M-four. Don't have the other pair of black springs so fitted the included white/blue white/yellow ones in the interim. Also missing some ball connector nuts for the top of the rear dampers so ordered some though the LHS.

Also built the chassis of my M05Ra. Went together ok. Weird, Tamiya have included the V1 chassis A parts, but on the same sprue, included the rear section of the V2 chassis, so you get the box section at the back for the droop screws (but no v2 or carbon 1pc arms). 

I only installed bearings, has the factory pinion, a temporary servo and still have to trim out and paint the dirt shields. Also want to do the TT01 hexes to bring the rear out.

Didn't have to build the pogos either, as the Escort ones were still sitting on the table 😄

Found m-chassis number 15 too, not far from me... :ph34r: Or should I just call it quits? 😄

 

pHerx5e.jpg

 

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Pylon80 said:

Is that ESC a 1080 painted black? Including the wires? 🧐 Those electronics are looking very clean!

Thanks!

I don’t know if it is a Carson rebrand. In Germany it is sold as Carson Dragster 3. It is the mandatory esc for the Tamiya Euro Cup here. Tamico sells it:

https://tamico.de/Carson-500906246-Brushless-Set-Dragster-3-16T
 

It already comes with black cables. The motor wires are made shorter by me. Without fan (not necessary with 16t) it doesn’t look bad.

Savöx 1251mg black edition servo already has a very short cable.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

got 2 sets of charger adapters from XT60 battery to tamiya plug charger, XT60 adapter to tamiya plug ESC. not in the mood to repeat all the junk i had to deal with to get these 2 sets done. the bullet points are:

not having an item to clean the tip

 overheating the can to the point i wasnt able to properly plug it to the battery well

not having all the concentration and tools nearby to correct the bad angle of the cans

went through 6 female XT60 connectors to get to this point to have 2 good ones.

i got some stuff to order ie motor plugs and find some good item to clean soldering tips... dont have the energy right now to post the pics of this cluster.

  • Sad 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finished off my Optima, only the body and tidy the electrics and install the driver to do,this one took me what seemed like an eternity to build and all 100% of my own making!. Has anyone ever done a build that you just can't get your concentration on?? I think every stage I must of Done about half a dozen stupid mistakes!.....chassis rails upside down, chain gearing on one diff and belt on the other(I mean REALLY!!! what an idiot) chain around the wrong way and wondered why it was so noisy! And it goes on and on! Don't even get me started on the evil but necessary e-clips for the shock shafts!, I've gone for years without one of those little critters somersaulting into oblivion!........I lost five!! Interestingly I had a original set of satin chrome wheels (pack of two)  and I bought the equivalent re-release set and the original are far more shiny?

20210805_075414.jpg

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, MICHAELs TopForce17 said:

Finished a rere Ultima in red.

IMG_1031

IMG_1034

 

That looks stunning mate! The gold shocks with the red and white wheels look just so right!👍

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I decided I did not like the lens decals I used previously, so painted the lens area gunmetal and swapped to these decals for a more neutral look.   

IMG_Aug52021at82237AM.jpg.39e75169dee6fc9c659e65dae175359b.jpg

IMG_Aug52021at82257AM.jpg.0c5af86126355b0a51f690caed2085e9.jpg

IMG_Aug52021at82219AM.jpg.7abfb582b3055b2ce406df67591627f9.jpg

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, wtcc5 said:

Thanks!

I don’t know if it is a Carson rebrand. In Germany it is sold as Carson Dragster 3. It is the mandatory esc for the Tamiya Euro Cup here. Tamico sells it:

https://tamico.de/Carson-500906246-Brushless-Set-Dragster-3-16T
 

It already comes with black cables. The motor wires are made shorter by me. Without fan (not necessary with 16t) it doesn’t look bad.

Savöx 1251mg black edition servo already has a very short cable.

Well the entire thing looks amazing especially with that spiffy receiver that doesn't have an antenna! The ESC definitely looks like a HW 1080 rebranded. I'm doing the electronics on the F1 right now and it's so hard not to make it look like a messy bundle of wires...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, nel33 said:

got 2 sets of charger adapters from XT60 battery to tamiya plug charger, XT60 adapter to tamiya plug ESC. not in the mood to repeat all the junk i had to deal with to get these 2 sets done. the bullet points are:

not having an item to clean the tip

 overheating the can to the point i wasnt able to properly plug it to the battery well

not having all the concentration and tools nearby to correct the bad angle of the cans

went through 6 female XT60 connectors to get to this point to have 2 good ones.

i got some stuff to order ie motor plugs and find some good item to clean soldering tips... dont have the energy right now to post the pics of this cluster.

So what it sounds like is you may need a wet sponge to clean your solding iron tip after each application.  You can choose to use any kitchen sponge with water for that.  

As for the solding surface, are you tinning (pre soldering) the contact and wires before soldering the wires to the contacts?   That will definitely help with soldering heavy gauge wires.

Are you using any helping hands (jig) to hold the connector while soldering?  That is a must have if you are not using one so that the connector does not move around.  When I was a kid I had no money to buy any special tools so taped the connector or contact or motor or wire to my work table so that it would stay put while soldering.  :lol:

I hope some of this is helpful and encourage you to give it another shot.  I've been soldering since I was about 10 years old which is ~40 years ago.. 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Started the GF01TR.   Silly Tamiya only included enough 630 bearings in their hopup to do 2 reduction drives where I needed enough to do 4.  What the heck, just include enough to do all 4 and double the price.  :huh:  The only reason why I bought these together with the GF01TR from Tamiya was for convenience..otherwise I would've just bought from FastEddy.

I used the included bushings for 2 of them as I won't be driving it that much anyway.  

IMG_Aug52021at43824PM.jpg.d62a45fc3f5d52637a01f786e10d7ce9.jpg

Will continue on tomorrow.  :D

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Willy iine said:

So what it sounds like is you may need a wet sponge to clean your solding iron tip after each application.  You can choose to use any kitchen sponge with water for that.  

As for the solding surface, are you tinning (pre soldering) the contact and wires before soldering the wires to the contacts?   That will definitely help with soldering heavy gauge wires.

Are you using any helping hands (jig) to hold the connector while soldering?  That is a must have if you are not using one so that the connector does not move around.  When I was a kid I had no money to buy any special tools so taped the connector or contact or motor or wire to my work table so that it would stay put while soldering.  :lol:

I hope some of this is helpful and encourage you to give it another shot.  I've been soldering since I was about 10 years old which is ~40 years ago.. 

 

 

most of my issues came with the choice of 12 AWG wires... the pretinnng of the wires is a bit difficult as getting the right amount on the wire and fitting the wire to the can is hard, untinned its just barely big enough to accept the wire, its 50/50 the pretinning is correct. i could try cut 5' of wire and hope i get it correct. i used flux as a heat transfer method but its too unpredictable. i will try with 14awg that i have stored away and see if i can make more connectors. with proper pretinning. 

heating the can without pretinning was very close or past the connector heat limits. i do have a helping hand device, my father's set that was missing 1 hand. an old alligator clip serves as useful stand in. for the connectors i used an automotive flat needle nose vice grips to hold the connector and 2mm?? solder wire as pressure to keep it against the can. the aligator clips did leave some marks on the wire even past the toothy part.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Started the GF01TR.   Silly Tamiya only included enough 630 bearings in their hopup to do 2 reduction drives where I needed enough to do 4.  What the heck, just include enough to do all 4 and double the price.  :huh:  The only reason why I bought these together with the GF01TR from Tamiya was for convenience..otherwise I would've just bought from FastEddy.

I used the included bushings for 2 of them as I won't be driving it that much anyway.  

IMG_Aug52021at43824PM.jpg.d62a45fc3f5d52637a01f786e10d7ce9.jpg

Will continue on tomorrow.  :D

I’m looking forward to your thoughts on this build and then running it.

Great looking, quirky Tamiya kit 👍

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just had the eBay £2 selling fee which is good news.

Now the KH has gone I will list the LB and see how I get on.

Just going to pick them off slowly but surely and just see where I get too. 
 

8 in total still, so it’ll take a while and it’ll give me a chance to take stock and keep the models of most interest 👍

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, moffman said:

Finished off my Optima, only the body and tidy the electrics and install the driver to do,this one took me what seemed like an eternity to build and all 100% of my own making!. Has anyone ever done a build that you just can't get your concentration on?? I think every stage I must of Done about half a dozen stupid mistakes!.....chassis rails upside down, chain gearing on one diff and belt on the other(I mean REALLY!!! what an idiot) chain around the wrong way and wondered why it was so noisy! And it goes on and on! Don't even get me started on the evil but necessary e-clips for the shock shafts!, I've gone for years without one of those little critters somersaulting into oblivion!........I lost five!! Interestingly I had a original set of satin chrome wheels (pack of two)  and I bought the equivalent re-release set and the original are far more shiny?

20210805_075414.jpg

looks sick! hows the weight  ? and box art body ?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finished off my optima (actually late last night) did a homage to  my original one which I regretted selling even more so I can't remember the justification on why I sold it or even how much I got for it? Original one has the silver turbo optima wheels and bridgestone tyres 

20210805_212123.jpg

IMG_20160501_084059.jpg

  • Like 10

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

just replaced the screen on the laptop and for the first time since last year i can see again with out lines all over the show:)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...