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3 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Modified my GF01 and WW2 body to lower it one notch down from where I had it before.   I did not cut Willy’s shoe, btw.   That would be horrible for Willy.  :blink:

Also made fender liners for the front to cut off all light visible towards the front of the body underneath for a cleaner look.  

IMG_Aug152021at32633PM.thumb.jpg.2e9c681d89827774800d9e11b15c33c9.jpg

 - vs- factory height WW2 (WR02)..

IMG_Aug152021at41520PM.jpg.77270e5b165ac1fdc1c06133a69c6259.jpg

I took a Dremel to that foot on mine to thin out the sole of the shoe, but also cut down on the part of the chassis where body clip for battery cover goes through. Between that and the modification to the bottom of the floor where the big hole was, I don’t think I can get the body any lower.  I am curious, what method did you use to paint the Monster Beetle TR wheels? I may want to shoot mine in flat black to try on mine, if I do that. Are you using any foams in those tires too? I put the firmer Schumacher ones in what it has now.

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19 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

All is not lost, maybe turn it into. Force India F1?

13CA681B-FAC2-456A-9CEF-EBC5F520EE67.md.

That would’ve been perfect, or close enough, perfect if I had the newer body. Wish I had jumped on here before continuing with it.

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So here they are! The pink one came out all right, in sunlight blue shines through at certain angles and looks pretty good. The red one, well this is the best angle that makes it look least like the horrifying nightmare it truly is. Started out great, then all kinds of things just kept going wrong. Planned on using it for speed attempts anyway so maybe a crash or fire will sort it out :lol:.

CC5350F6-0CC3-4A95-BF09-B4B89C9D4313.thumb.jpeg.979193336d3d491125e696c1f632863a.jpegC6D2B9EE-EFE7-48F3-B7C3-109DCB78A4AE.thumb.jpeg.6eca8d99d7065b4ec44ae9d596139754.jpeg

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2 hours ago, BJoe76 said:

I took a Dremel to that foot on mine to thin out the sole of the shoe, but also cut down on the part of the chassis where body clip for battery cover goes through. Between that and the modification to the bottom of the floor where the big hole was, I don’t think I can get the body any lower.  I am curious, what method did you use to paint the Monster Beetle TR wheels? I may want to shoot mine in flat black to try on mine, if I do that. Are you using any foams in those tires too? I put the firmer Schumacher ones in what it has now.

On my GF01 I completely removed the left side of the battery lid including the clip area.  That alone gave plenty of clearance for Willy's foot without cutting.  (My cars are all designed around Willy and Billy so if anything needs to be cut, it would be on the car side).  I also trimmed half of the bottom of the body where the "L" shaped reinforcement is under the shifter area and opened up the rectangular hole (for the switch on the M38) to provide clearance for the right side battery clip area.  The next highest point to the bottom of the body is the steering servo, but it is already at the same height as the WR02 WW2, so I'm happy where it is.

As for the GF01TR Beetle wheels, I just used TS70.   The only prep I did was lightly sanded the lips on both ends.  If spraying over WW2's chrome plated wheels, I would sand the chrome completely off at the lips and leading edges prior to TS paint.  No foams in the tires, I like them soft for max grip.  :D  No glue used either.   I only run black can on my GF01 and factory Torque Tuned on my GF01TR.     

I have a couple more sets of spiked tires coming so going to paint the WR02 Jimny's wheels (factory is white) either black or gunmetal using TS tomorrow.  I think I'm going to paint my other GF01's (LandCruiser body with WW2 wheels)  black as well.

 

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tried to make progress on the manta just now but hit a few road bumps with instructions. not all mentally there on concentration to muss around with Flysky GT5 radio and receiver. got the servo saver done on the manta, borrowed the electronics from the lunchie to check the position of the arm and set it fairly well, its a tooth angle off from being 90 degrees like usual... looked at the instructions again and saw the MSC and ESC steps can be a bit confusing in regards to the steering servo. think i got it figured out though will wait for a night's sleep/rest before i go about building it. correct me if im wrong about some of this stuff, the HW1080 isnt ready yet as the motor plugs havent arrived yet so that stuff will happen a bit later.  any suggestion on where i should put the ESC? i was thinking inside of the tub behind the steering servo but i havent mocked up the electronics until the steering servo is in. not sure where i will put the ESC on/off but will find a spot when the rest of the electronics are sorted.

manta steer.png

mantasteer 1.png

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I have a early MFC-01 that has been sitting in the spares bin for years, as it doesn't work with a 2.4ghz radio, so spent most of the weekend installing it in my Globeliner/Kenworth. It has a custom raised floor for the speaker and MFU unit, and the battery tray will now only take a small soft pack lipo. I also fitted the control unit into the existing floor upside down, so the unit truck can still be switched on and off, and the volume adjusted, outside the cab, but can't be seen.

It was difficult because the interior is already glued in, and that made fitting the roof clearance lights and the signals/indicators difficult, but I got there. Did the rear tail lights, ran some reversing lights even though there is no light buckets there. I also have to make some buckets for the headlights either tonight or tomorrow, and find the parts for the electronic coupler detachment.

Then I will try and tidy up the details etc.

Then check over the other 2 trucks, and get the other 2 and my tank from the LHS and check them over, as we have a Truck show on this weekend 5.5 hours south of me 🙂

 

25kCK05.jpg

 

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21 minutes ago, berman said:

I have a early MFC-01 that has been sitting in the spares bin for years, as it doesn't work with a 2.4ghz radio, so spent most of the weekend installing it in my Globeliner/Kenworth. It has a custom raised floor for the speaker and MFU unit, and the battery tray will now only take a small soft pack lipo. I also fitted the control unit into the existing floor upside down, so the unit truck can still be switched on and off, and the volume adjusted, outside the cab, but can't be seen.

It was difficult because the interior is already glued in, and that made fitting the roof clearance lights and the signals/indicators difficult, but I got there. Did the rear tail lights, ran some reversing lights even though there is no light buckets there. I also have to make some buckets for the headlights either tonight or tomorrow, and find the parts for the electronic coupler detachment.

Then I will try and tidy up the details etc.

Then check over the other 2 trucks, and get the other 2 and my tank from the LHS and check them over, as we have a Truck show on this weekend 5.5 hours south of me 🙂

 

25kCK05.jpg

 

I saw that truck show advertised. Its close to my inlaws and even further away for me so won't be checking it out. Apparently there is sometimes one in Pukekohe, much better, although I think when I see a truck I'll want one and that is expensive

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i need to buy 3-4 measuring tapes.... i got 3 here but cant even find them when i need them. i got the steering arms on the manta setup using the only tool i was lucky to locate: Vernier caliper tool. i even bought a cheapie measuring tape thats only standard and i cant even locate that one right at the moment... im sure i will find one of the 4 measuring tapes in a day or 2 when i dnt need them LOL.

currently charging the XT60 connector battery, the soldering connections look good and cool. it reads 5.9v when i connected it to HW1080. wont give it a fill charge yet, will complete the charge after some sleep first to monitor it closer. this brings me to 5 live batteries with 1 spare tamiya connector battery sitting un-charged.

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4 hours ago, Willy iine said:

On my GF01 I completely removed the left side of the battery lid including the clip area.  That alone gave plenty of clearance for Willy's foot without cutting.  (My cars are all designed around Willy and Billy so if anything needs to be cut, it would be on the car side).  I also trimmed half of the bottom of the body where the "L" shaped reinforcement is under the shifter area and opened up the rectangular hole (for the switch on the M38) to provide clearance for the right side battery clip area.  The next highest point to the bottom of the body is the steering servo, but it is already at the same height as the WR02 WW2, so I'm happy where it is.

As for the GF01TR Beetle wheels, I just used TS70.   The only prep I did was lightly sanded the lips on both ends.  If spraying over WW2's chrome plated wheels, I would sand the chrome completely off at the lips and leading edges prior to TS paint.  No foams in the tires, I like them soft for max grip.  :D  No glue used either.   I only run black can on my GF01 and factory Torque Tuned on my GF01TR.     

I have a couple more sets of spiked tires coming so going to paint the WR02 Jimny's wheels (factory is white) either black or gunmetal using TS tomorrow.  I think I'm going to paint my other GF01's (LandCruiser body with WW2 wheels)  black as well.

 

Thanks!  I may have to give that a try then, not sure which paint I want to use.  It may be a bit until there’s time to do so though, over the last few years, I’ve acquired a few parts that should give my 1:1 a little more power and now that we’ve upgraded it’s ability to stop and turn, we can turn to making it quicker😁

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16 minutes ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

I saw that truck show advertised. Its close to my inlaws and even further away for me so won't be checking it out. Apparently there is sometimes one in Pukekohe, much better, although I think when I see a truck I'll want one and that is expensive

We had a display at the Bombay Truck Show the month before the pandemic, and there is another one on Feb 12th 2022 which we will be at. I know how you Jafas don't like leaving Auckland, so if you come along to this one I will let you have a drive. 😄

Then you can dig into your bottomless pit of excuses and explain to Mrs Gillham why you really really need one of these in your life. I will get the pen ready to sign your divorce papers. :ph34r:

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Just pulled the trigger on a Fighting Buggy... will be nice to add a SC chassis to the same shelf as my Sand Scorcher, yay!

Also, first NIB purchase for 5 years! 😲 The temptation is strong.

image.png.92c7b8662237ecb68c5cc9f88ea7555a.png  

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5 hours ago, BJoe76 said:

Thanks!  I may have to give that a try then, not sure which paint I want to use.  It may be a bit until there’s time to do so though, over the last few years, I’ve acquired a few parts that should give my 1:1 a little more power and now that we’ve upgraded it’s ability to stop and turn, we can turn to making it quicker😁

You are very welcome.  Good luck with your 1:1 project!   :D 

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Bought a Prusa Mini a couple months ago and have been working with  Fusion 360, YouTube, forums, etc to learn all I can the last six weeks. One key piece of the printing puzzle I didn’t pay attention to was humidity. Spent that last six weeks printing a copy I created of the CRP Blackfoot body mounts. Printed on everything….PLA, ABS, PETG to no avail. After putting my spools in a sealed container with two pounds of silica beads, I have finally achieved a decent, kinda ok, amateur print in ABS (white), and a center test piece in PLA. The first print without a mess of melted, stringy crap. Now if I can just work out the speed and the other kinks. Great fun though!

zbJ1z58.jpg

 

yoAOiPd.jpg

 

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Happy Monday Tamiya crew,

Not a bad few days. Finished my Super-G rebuild (I know, wrong rims...) and the Super Hotshot Re-Release. Thoroughly impressed with the Hotshot kit. Granted, it's not cheap (Chris @ RC Madness in Enfield CT hooked me up though!) but you get...

- Sport Tuned Motor
- Yellow CVAs
- Full Ball Bearings
- Ball Thrust Bearings
- Sway Bars

I'm finding that the best part of every build is painting that silly little driver figure. Call me Bob Ross. lol

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worked on the manta chassis, got servo installed, have the motor plugs in for the 1080 ESC in but havent installed them yet. stripped the 4 plastic holes with 3mm machined threads. drill and tap later on with some modified 2.5mm washers with widened interior diameter later i got the ESC table secure. need to take a break before i cause another unwarranted error. 1 rear hole has a bit of play but the rear suspension components will make it solid. just need to pray the mods i made to front tray holes hold. getting another chassis tub for the manta is getting a bit tough to find, low stock out there...

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Today I painted the wheels on my WR02 and GF01 using TS gunmetal and semi-gloss black.   Paint is still wet in this picture..

IMG_Aug162021at44321PM.jpg.48f0bc4debecd8ac85f909e55e457baa.jpg

 

IMG_Aug162021at44304PM.jpg.4be2911814fd06e5990bfbe10e7aaef0.jpg

Also painted the NOS bottle for my other WR02 WW2.   

IMG_Aug162021at44334PM.jpg.295ec911f30d5d086f5a5813763482b0.jpg

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Crashed my just finished yesterday body into the bottom of a fence and tore a hole in it. 

inCollage_20210816_231722697.thumb.jpg.c71f400beeba6d152cd6d5b15b1ede81.jpg

  • Sad 7

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Before crashing it, did a speed run. 

Sports Tuned with stock pinion gear, couldn't quite break the 10mph barrier. Still plenty of speed to tear a hole into itself. 

Screenshot_2021-08-16-23-23-05-955_com.huami.watch.hmwatchmanager.thumb.jpg.9f08b5d9316d8e3292c4d0e9202cdf5f.jpg

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@alvinlwhWell the good news is it looks like you burned some calories though? :lol:

Hope you can plug up the hole and decal it over..

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7 minutes ago, Goudar said:

@alvinlamI got similar thing on my first run with my TT02 Impreza, dog of my brother made a little dent on lexan twice. Scares from the past, anyway that was an awesome first run. :)

Here is a little souvenir :

https://youtu.be/5i7TJUjfA_s

Similar thing happened to my Subaru Impreza! I took my TT01 right after I finished repairing it and modded it to rally specs to the beach and drove it straight into a puddle killing the (old AM) RX and Tamiya 101 ESC. 

https://youtube.com/shorts/mO1RAvCKBRE?feature=share

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10 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

@alvinlwhWell the good news is it looks like you burned some calories though? :lol:

Hope you can plug up the hole and decal over it.  

That's me using my smartwatch as the data logger. 1.64km in just 121 steps? I must be really tall. 🤣

Anyway, this is my basher body, as long as I didn't screw up my wife's body (pun intended), it's OK. 😁

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10 hours ago, Willy iine said:

You are very welcome.  Good luck with your 1:1 project!   :D 

Thanks, it's appreciated!  After how well the csar responded to the brake upgrade and better than stock rear shocks and spring, I think my Dad is wanting to dig in and installing the few power goodies I have  even more so than I am:lol:

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Swapped steel screws and sway bar mounts for aluminum in the 3racing M4 and added an aluminum bumper mount.
771CC56A-0884-4721-A6BB-9BACFA3F2531.jpeg


Put in a Bowhouse steering kit with bump stops and swapped the Integy battery mount for a SOR Graphics mount in order to move the battery 3mm lower in the Element Enduro.

CE9B125D-B9CC-4F0C-B449-64732F06F788.jpeg
 

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im really starting to hate 3mm machined bolts... had issues with esc deck on manta now the lower mount point for the rear suspension have 1mm play, even tried a modified 2.5mm washer under the 3mm machined bolt head, still 1mm of play on the  chassis-transmission box..... think i will break out some tamiya self tappers i didnt use on the lunch box for this thing.

thread tapping the gear box hole inserts isnt really possible... the top mount bolts are fine but im not happy at all here.

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