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Initial cut of Mustang body.

For the most part came out clean and straight, only needing a little sanding around front spoiler.

Wheel arches, using trusty compass cutter, came out smooth, but did under-estimate the diameter slightly, nothing significant that it cut into the body, was actually a little narrower actually, so top of one of the arches has maybe 1mm that could be trimmed, but for now have left as going back in with scissors may highlight the issue worse as the curve will no longer be perfect, even if more true to mould line.

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After this, started trying to work out which body mounts I was going to use, and how to best get them true to body.

As per previous topic/post (How to measure body mounts (magnetic) - Build Tips and Techniques - Tamiyaclub.com) this will be my first foray into magnetic/stealth mounts, so it's a learning experience, and since for the near future I will be running multiple bodies on the same chassis, I want to try and have as little swap out as possible in terms of positioning and adjustment.

Initially I was going to use those mounts shown in my previous post, across ALL 4 posts. However, upon lining up with the body (at least the Mustang for now) that puts the posts and magnets clear in line of the rear window, eek, so even if tinted, you're gonna see them. At which rate I may as well drill the holes and leaves posts as normal sticking out. So while scratching my head, I found the other set of mounts I purchased at the start of the year - Xtra Speed (https://www.rcmart.com/xtra-speed-1-10-rc-aluminum-stealth-body-mount-black-xs-59496bk-00066497). Which turned out to be a good idea, as those have adjustable (both horizontal and vertical) for at least one of their mounts (typically rear).

So at the moment I have the initial single magnet top-of-post mounts on the front, and have used the Xtra Speed bar mount at the rear. 

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Note the photo of the rear mounts shows single magnets on top. These are the ones that come with the other single style mounts, the actual Xtra Speed kit comes with a bar with two magnets, but I think that will be too rigid for the bodies, so will likely just use these instead - unless I go velcro.

The Xtra Speed mounts also have options for mounting on the front, using a cap that sits on top of the post, and then the bar screws in between those posts. So no additional adjustments and offsets like the rears in the photo above.

Unfortunately the kit comes with 2 different size bars. The longer of which, remains un-used at this stage, as its too wide for the TT-01/2 mounts. Although I am capable of screwing and mounting them, the extra width pushes/bows the posts out quite a bit. On initial dry fits with full height posts this was quiet noticeable and in my opinion probably way to flexible and prone to doing damage to the body, if a hard enough shunt or crash.

Having said that, however, now that I've had to trim the front posts right down, that flex may well and truly be less of an issue, but also, the shortened posts may mean there is not enough flex at all to even get the bar across? Something I may try later today once I've trimmed the remaining front post down.

Its a shame the Xtra Speed kit doesn't come with both bars equal size, even if there was one kit for long and one for short, as the shortened bar does fit perfectly between the caps that sit on top of the posts.

The initial dry fit for this looks to be good, as the rear bar sits just outside the Mustangs window and on the boot/spoiler section.

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My only concern is, in order to get the Mustang to sit at decent height - about 2 to 4mm of space between top of tyre and wheel arch - the front mount has to be right on the VERY bottom pin hole for the mounting post. Which on the TT-01/2 XV-01 type posts, is right on the elbow joint, meaning I had to trim the strengthening, angled, plastic section in order to get the mount to slide far enough down. Even now, with the trimming and sanding, it didn't completely sit down far enough, but I still managed to get the body pin through with some force, to lock it in place. So obviously the post has been weakened to accommodate the mount, but by how much, and if this will truly cause an issue since the shaft is now much shorter and going to cause less flex/strain on the elbow, is unknown.

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I think they should all be fine, the only question that will remain is if I stick with magnets, or instead opt for velcro ? As I have some concerns with the glue and magnets showing through the paint job based on tests I've already done - again another topic regarding Shoe Goo and alternatives.

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Replaced the old BL motor Ares Pro 17.5 to Rocket V3 17.5. The Rocket has much more torque and magnets are very powerful compared to the Ares. Will test this on the track soon.

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Continuing on with the comical SS body, made dimples for the door handles, and pretty much finished sanding the driver side. 

Will work on the passenger side after a break.. I should be receiving the Blitzer Beetle cone today so will drill holes for the indicators and install onto this body as I want to use a winch on the front and the SS cone is too big..

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Update..

Since the cone I got today (red one) was the wrong one I decided to just go with the SS nose.  The overall sanding is complete, doing the last round of putty and sanding.  Tomorrow I will clean up the nose joint and make the door handles.. If all goes well I will begin the painting over the weekend. 

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Now I am really confused with all the Beetle cones because this is not what I wanted. lol :lol:

This must be the Monster Beetle cone.  What I wanted was the Blitzer cone which was also red so I placed the order.  

Now I feel dumb like those people that think all silver cars are the same. 

So I guess I will just use the SS cone this time.. I mean it’s fine, just will go without the winch. 

IMG_Oct212021at43520PM.jpg.f76ed5c6f65937a2a4e538a7cbefa16f.jpg

 

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Blitzer nose is 9115052 @Willy iine

A bit deeper than the SS and MB and with more cut out to clear the shock towers. It also doesn’t have the mounting holes at the bottom for the the MB spotlights, or indicator holes. It’s a bit more orange than red 👍🏻

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21 minutes ago, Re-Bugged said:

Blitzer nose is 9115052 @Willy iine

A bit deeper than the SS and MB and with more cut out to clear the shock towers. It also doesn’t have the mounting holes at the bottom for the the MB spotlights, or indicator holes. It’s a bit more orange than red 👍🏻

So I guess not only do I think silver cars are all the same, I'm also color blind!   :lol:

This is what I thought I bought.. I guess it is orange!

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14 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

So I guess not only do I think silver cars are all the same, I'm also color blind!   :lol:

This is what I though I bought.. I guess it is orange!

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Soon you'll have a degree in Tamiya Rhinoplasty to add to your resume!:lol:

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13 hours ago, Yoshimitsu said:

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That is lovely 🥰 I love orange beetles 

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Thank you sir. Anything to avoid the box art.😋 It's a VW colour too. Brilliant orange.😎

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46 minutes ago, Yoshimitsu said:

Thank you sir. Anything to avoid the box art.😋 It's a VW colour too. Brilliant orange.😎

I know , I always keep a can of it, I’ve used it on many models

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Well actually yesterday as well. Started to cut out my Kamtec delivery. First is the TT02 dust/dirt cover and the second is my ABS Bowler body, boy is it thick plastic. Very solid but still not that heavy. One think I have realised is that I hadn’t cut enough off the Lexan one which is another reason it never looked quite right. I might cut the bumpers of both and make new ones fitted to the chassis, also add a front skid plate. I’m toying with themes for the ABS shell. At the moment it’s a Camel yellow body with Camel/Dakar style stickers!! I’m also planning to sacrifice one of my many CC01 tyres to make a more realistic double tyre rack at the back. Anyhow that’s the plan today!!!

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14 hours ago, Yoshimitsu said:

Thank you sir. Anything to avoid the box art.😋 It's a VW colour too. Brilliant orange.😎

What?!  Now that I'm trying to make my Comical Sand Scorcher box art, you claim I am obsolete?  Dang you move too fast for me, can't keep up with the times, Yoshimitsu! :lol:  Hahaha

This week has been a busy work week and people are calling me left and right..as soon as I pickup my tool, phone call..tele-conference..urgent email need reply ASAP! lame excuses, more lame excuses, etc.. 

So this morning I cleaned up the nose joint on my comical SS only to find the left side plastic not only over laps the hood, it is too thin to support putty... so I cut that out, waiting for cement to set, and will putty before I need to get back to work. 

 

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Update..

Sanded the nose joint, made door handles and mounted them onto the body. 

Also masked the exterior and painted the interior.. once fully cured I will mask the windows from the inside along with the inner fender flares in prep for exterior paint tomorrow. 

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Update...

Okay after all the meetings and calls for work, at least got the masking done.. now overspray proof, hopefully.. will do the white tomorrow and blue the following.  Yes I will probably forget to paint the the tail housings. lol

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Edited by Willy iine
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Took the girl to karate, but those of you who knows me, the reason is the school is also my driving grounds, which is my real reason for 'volunteering' to take her.

Slapped on new road tyres on to the Thunder Dragon and popped in the new lipo and swapped in the new RX with the new CR3P for a test drive. 

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PS can someone tell me if I got the treads on the right way? 

Boy, TZ + lipo, what a handful! Rolled at almost every full speed turns. Might need some help/suggestions at countering the body roll. After a few road rashes, knocking a body clip off, twisting the real posts around, I decided to take it to its natural environment, the rugby field. Yes even though it is on road tyres, at least I will not risk smashing it up on its second outing. 

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Original plan was to "race" my girl since now I got 2 TXs, but the lipo alarm went off before her classes finished so no race. Not that it will be a fair race anyway, since it will be a 370 ST vs 540 TZ. 😁

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Your tires are pointed the correct way. 👌😁
 

Rear sway bar might help with roll.

And you might try axle extensions to bump out the tires a few mm…

Next time, pack a small kit:  wheel nut driver and off road wheels. 5min to swap them out and you’re good to go playing rugby!

 

And I had been driving on the ball field next to my sons swim practice, but now they have little league girls softball out there!  Who do they think they are!?!

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1 hour ago, Frog Jumper said:

Rear sway bar might help with roll.

And you might try axle extensions to bump out the tires a few mm…

Is this a hop up kit or something? 

What type of axle extension? I can try thicker hexes, but don't think there are much room there (as discussed on another thread). 

1 hour ago, Frog Jumper said:

Next time, pack a small kit:  wheel nut driver and off road wheels. 5min to swap them out and you’re good to go playing rugby!

Yes, that's what I usually do. Just that today is a wet day so I thought will not be getting on the field, but excessive roll overs put me off driving on tarmac. Plus I planned today to be a straight on speed run, thinking the road tyres will work better than the kit pins. It was surprisingly sweet handling on those and NiMHs. 

1 hour ago, Frog Jumper said:

And I had been driving on the ball field next to my sons swim practice, but now they have little league girls softball out there!  Who do they think they are!?!

That's what kids are for, "Honey, I will take the kids to XYZ, you can chill at home". 

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46 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

Is this a hop up kit or something? 

What type of axle extension? I can try thicker hexes, but don't think there are much room there (as discussed on another thread). 

Yes, that's what I usually do. Just that today is a wet day so I thought will not be getting on the field, but excessive roll overs put me off driving on tarmac. Plus I planned today to be a straight on speed run, thinking the road tyres will work better than the kit pins. It was surprisingly sweet handling on those and NiMHs. 

That's what kids are for, "Honey, I will take the kids to XYZ, you can chill at home". 

Rear sway bar from Terra Scorcher.

And I’ll look around for a axle extension for you. Most come with a long nut to solve your issue.

And yeah. Saturday mornings I go to the LHS after I drop off my son at swim and my wife sleeps in. Winner winner chicken dinner!

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20 minutes ago, Frog Jumper said:

And I’ll look around for a axle extension for you. Most come with a long nut to solve your issue.

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This kind? I have some and had a bad experience with them with a wheel exploding. The "collar" (?) nut is bigger than the wheel hole and I have to open up the wheel hole to allow it to get through, probably weakening the wheel in the process. Went flying off during a speed run. 

Just a thought, it might be over geared for lipo? Looking back at my own build thread, I got the 17t (biggest?) in it. Perhaps I should drop it down? What you think? 

EDIT: Rear sway bar from the TS, how do I get that? Parts tree + screw bag? Or...? 

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3 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

 

This kind? I have some and had a bad experience with them with a wheel exploding. The "collar" (?) nut is bigger than the wheel hole and I have to open up the wheel hole to allow it to get through, probably weakening the wheel in the process. Went flying off during a speed run. 

Just a thought, it might be over geared for lipo? Looking back at my own build thread, I got the 17t (biggest?) in it. Perhaps I should drop it down? What you think? 

EDIT: Rear sway bar from the TS, how do I get that? Parts tree + screw bag? Or...? 

Yeah, that's it.  But look for one where the OD is the same as the OD of your axle...

As for the TS rear sway bar, you can try to find #58078, or you can put on together with parts.  I did both (since I wanted spare parts) but had to order the actual bar from Tony's.  The rest was ball connectors and some turnbuckles.

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2 minutes ago, Frog Jumper said:

Yeah, that's it.  But look for one where the OD is the same as the OD of your axle...

As for the TS rear sway bar, you can try to find #58078, or you can put on together with parts.  I did both (since I wanted spare parts) but had to order the actual bar from Tony's.  The rest was ball connectors and some turnbuckles.

Em, shouldn't that be the ID that is the same as the OD of the axle? As in the hole of the collar nut being the same as the shaft? So the end result is the collar that slips into the hole of the wheel will be bigger then the axle. Impossible for ID and OD to be the same given the thickness of the metal? Perhaps it is wheels with bigger axle holes that I should be looking for? 

Also, another issue I noticed when using them was huge vibrations, not unexpected I suppose? Will that be OK or can it break parts? 

I will print out the TS manual and see what parts I need. I do not really have much spares given my limited collection. 

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