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3 hours ago, MadInventor said:

Finally finished off some hotshot style alloys for my re-re Terra Scorcher build. Similar to hotshot items, but smaller size for the Thundershot / Falcon spike tires

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Did you actually cut these wheels on a CNC machine?   If so, wow! 

 

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Cleaned up my lawn mowing TT01, refitted the servo arm, replaced the fried Surpass ESC with some Aliexpress special. 

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Don't think the fan works very well but I like it, makes it look "serious". Also, this will be my "go to" ESC now for non lighted cars as it has brake on neutral (F/R setting) which I quite like, but for some reason, its BEC cannot power the lights brightly. 

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Looks like the toe needs setting again. Now ready for installation of a new 18T motor. The old ESC only support down to 20T.

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Nice truck @Re-Bugged!!

 

What I worked on today.. the chassis parts I made today pieced together.  Still a ways to go till the finish line, but starting to take shape.  

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Ramblin Ron now has color. He looks a bit like a zombie, which I guess it's fitting giving how close we are to Halloween :)

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I should have done a better job trimming the mold lines. Too late for that!

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14 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

Nice truck @Re-Bugged!!

 

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Thanks mate, the Blackfoot is my go to plug & play to get a quick RC fix out the back.

It also won me a Monster Beetle once in a main site comp 😁

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The CSS is coming on fantastically, it’s screaming out for some blue shocks, I can hear it from here 😉

Does Mrs Willy iine have any cake decorating equipment left now though?

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I got t plug soldered on the new HW 1060 and installed it in the FAV. It’s pretty much RTR now. Except I can’t get myself to cut into the nerf bar/ side panel to fit a battery pack. But it’s either that or install a side plate from a new ReRe . 

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Great progress.  I want to see it in action

On 10/24/2021 at 5:26 AM, Willy iine said:

Between last night and today I decided that I just could not get myself to do the box art on my comical SS.  Mainly I’m not a fan of those fake brand stickers it comes with (nor slapping a lot of decals in general as some of you may have already noticed) so I decided to go off the rails again.  :lol:   

I ran with off-white for the main body color to get some warmth and consistency to accommodate the battleship red I will use for the sides.   

Still undecided whether to go gloss on the off white or matte it down.  I have a bunch of 1:1 car detailing gear so getting rid of the orange peel is no issue.  

However, I got 2 pin holes in the putty between the hood and cone.  I’ve never had this happen before, but with my poor vision I am sure I must have missed it.  I’m going to have to file a parting line there after the paint dries and re-spray..  might consider doing a black bonnet.

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Update..

Grooved a parting line for the bonnet to cone so that I could rid the pin holes.   Actually the car looks better with this parting line.. 

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7 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Did you actually cut these wheels on a CNC machine?   If so, wow! 

 

Nope, an old school lathe. Just winding handles and measuring with a caliper. But I have had a bit of practice, I made 28 for the War Rig.........

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8 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

Beautiful job on the wheels Mr @MadInventor   I hope we going to see them mounted on the car 👍🏻 

The car is erm, still unassembled in the box.....

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For D12 Kei truck, I tried to install a diff... the teeth are too blocky, they don't turn smoothly. They tend to lock.  If that was its only problem, I would have filed them but the whole thing didn't fit well into the axle either.  This was a total failure. 

Is it weird that I enjoyed failing?  I had a Star Wars audiobook on, and I was totally in the zone wrestling with this thing alone.  At my age, total concentration comes by less often. I loved having it for few hours.  

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24 minutes ago, Juggular said:

Is it weird that I enjoyed failing? 

I think not. Us real modellers enjoy looking for problems (small or big) where none really exists and solving them (as you seen from my many questions). If not, we will just buy RTRs (or as my friend said, Kyosho) and be done with. The whole reason we buy unbuilt and then find "problems" here and there is to make something unique of our own. Even with RTRs (in your case), we still will take them apart (usually) to mess around with them. 

When I was in the army... 

"This is my rifle. There are many like it, but this one is mine."

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The Nissan pickup received a few coats of TS-13. After a few hours did the window trims with a brush and attached the extra bits.

It turned out quite good but now I'm finding myself thinking that it would be fantastic to have a clear windshield and a cockpit. Future project I guess!

For the moment I'll let it cure an extra day before sponsor stickers are placed. I'm still debating how to manage the white "Nissan" on the blue stripe. Will probably hunt for some "close enough" font standard vinyl letters from the stationary store before I decide to pull the trigger on something more costly.

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Today I stripped down the  FAV and Wild One that I recently purchased. I wanted to clean them up and see what needs replacing. Both are in OK condition overall but needs some work. The FAV especially; front shocks are seizing and one of the rears is cracked at the top joint.

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But then my son came home, saw the FAV shell and driver and declared he loved it! So I’m now hastily rebuilding the FAV using the best of both models to get a decent runner. I’m not going to stress about making this one too great as I’ve been protective of the Egress and the GF-01 Land Cruiser and want him to be able to let rip a bit more with this one.

So, I also spent some time purchasing some new shocks, 3D printed engine and other parts for the Wild One which will be ‘my’ runner.

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8 minutes ago, GeeWings said:

Today I stripped down the  FAV and Wild One that I recently purchased. I wanted to clean them up and see what needs replacing. Both are in OK condition overall but needs some work. The FAV especially; front shocks are seizing and one of the rears is cracked at the top joint.

8C3807CC-F908-4752-AF39-9B8AC4C2215D.thumb.jpeg.f4b19073aef7d89585e813b696a5fe77.jpeg

But then my son came home, saw the FAV shell and driver and declared he loved it! So I’m now hastily rebuilding the FAV using the best of both models to get a decent runner. I’m not going to stress about making this one too great as I’ve been protective of the Egress and the GF-01 Land Cruiser and want him to be able to let rip a bit more with this one.

So, I also spent some time purchasing some new shocks, 3D printed engine and other parts for the Wild One which will be ‘my’ runner.

So, as a fellow FAV enthusiast I’ll ask for your input on restoration. Cut the right hand side side panel of the battery box/ nerf bar / or get a side plate from a re re . Otherwise I can’t think of a way to fit a battery

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I’d had my stitches out yesterday and I’ve been waxing and varnishing doors on the top floor this week. 

Just a few minor minor bits for me to do before the carpets going in. 

Bed shopping today, then its furniture, curtains and blinds.

The gardeners are already booked for Monday and then breath 😂

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12 minutes ago, Dakratfink said:

So, as a fellow FAV enthusiast I’ll ask for your input on restoration. Cut the right hand side side panel of the battery box/ nerf bar / or get a side plate from a re re . Otherwise I can’t think of a way to fit a battery

I used a small soft case 3 cell LiPo in mine, and put the power cable directly through the radio tray into the battery compartment. You can see the hole in the chassis below. 

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18 minutes ago, Dakratfink said:

So, as a fellow FAV enthusiast I’ll ask for your input on restoration. Cut the right hand side side panel of the battery box/ nerf bar / or get a side plate from a re re . Otherwise I can’t think of a way to fit a battery

Both the NiMH and LiPo batteries fit fine in the FAV and the WO. What’s the issue you are having?

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3 minutes ago, Grumpy pants said:

I’d had my stitches out yesterday and I’ve been waxing and varnishing doors on the top floor this week. 

Just a minor w minor bits for me to do before the carpets going in 

Bed shopping today, then its furniture, curtains and blinds.

The gardeners are already booked for Monday and then breath 😂

That seems a lot to do for someone whose just had stiches out :blink:  Didn't the doc tell you to take is easy for a while ?  Look after yourself :)

 

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34 minutes ago, GeeWings said:

Both the NiMH and LiPo batteries fit fine in the FAV and the WO. What’s the issue you are having?

They fit, but where to route the plug ? 
if you use a standard “stick pack” Nihm or lipo, it fits but takes up the entire battery tray. On the Re Re ones they have a hole in the right hand side panel of the battery compartment to route the wire/plug . The original ones used a “hump pack” and the cable went up into the chassis under the driver cover . 
one can use a smaller battery but otherwise I can’t think of a way to route a standard size stick pack without cutting ( or ordering the already notched bit from a modern one ) 

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5 hours ago, MadInventor said:

Nope, an old school lathe. Just winding handles and measuring with a caliper. But I have had a bit of practice, I made 28 for the War Rig.........

That is awesome, nice work.  Honestly it looked so good I thought you either bought them or just painted them initially and did not understand the weight of your post.   

Well done, I always like seeing custom parts and cars no one else has!! 

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31 minutes ago, Dakratfink said:

They fit, but where to route the plug ? 
if you use a standard “stick pack” Nihm or lipo, it fits but takes up the entire battery tray. On the Re Re ones they have a hole in the right hand side panel of the battery compartment to route the wire/plug . The original ones used a “hump pack” and the cable went up into the chassis under the driver cover . 
one can use a smaller battery but otherwise I can’t think of a way to route a standard size stick pack without cutting ( or ordering the already notched bit from a modern one ) 

I connect mine under where Willy is sitting (general area)..  ie: inside the battery compartment. 

Even shows some random Deans style connector the previous owner installed (or came with the 1060, not sure)

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38 minutes ago, Dakratfink said:

They fit, but where to route the plug ? 
if you use a standard “stick pack” Nihm or lipo, it fits but takes up the entire battery tray. On the Re Re ones they have a hole in the right hand side panel of the battery compartment to route the wire/plug . The original ones used a “hump pack” and the cable went up into the chassis under the driver cover . 
one can use a smaller battery but otherwise I can’t think of a way to route a standard size stick pack without cutting ( or ordering the already notched bit from a modern one ) 

I’ll try and find picture for you later but I filled in the mouse hole on my re re Wild one and routed the cable internally. I use standard race packs. That way you don’t see the cable at all.

*edit* looks like @Willy iine got there first. 

Edited by Busdriver
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i just decided to bad word it and buy the 50927 lanevo VII WRC body set on ebay. saw it a few months ago and decided not to buy for wallet's sake. i presumed someone would snap it up in the mean time but no takers for it. $181 later and its on the way. the stickers arent in perfect condition with a bit of curling  if i remember correctly but i dont care. if the light stickers are good then its fine. not going to use the majority of them in 1st place. going to recreate my Initial D Ver 3 evo7 with this one. its for tb01 chassis but same 257mm wheelbase. it might give me the kick in the but to continue trimming, mask, paint and reinforce the FD3S body.

my tt02 body wish list for my sole model is going to be complete now :).

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