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On day shift this week first time in 10 years !! What a weird feeling, hoping that since it's a 3pm finish I can get the kids to the park with their DT02 and Grasshopper for a play about, but with this storm on its way and 60-70mph winds forecast for here in Aberdeen, that might be doubtful 🙄😕

Currently doing some Hydrogen service training at work with our H2 Double Deckers. 👍

James.

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Had great fun running it on road rubbers. Stuck like glue to the black top, a bit too well that top speed suffered and went from oversteer to understeer. Probably due to the 4WD width fronts. Now feel like getting a cheapo DT-03 and sticking a stupid motor in for a cheap trasher (don't wanna trash this body) but they had gone up from £72 to £116.

Lights, essential for night running, not so much for "show me the way" (they are not quite enough for that anyway) but to show me where the car is pointing (I got a red light on the rear as well). 

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Picked up a HSV-010.  Had to google this car as a NSX gen 1 successor.  My first road car and will be interesting as it is belt driven.  Need to get some electronics and paint before I can start. 

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Assembled the @simensays wheels onto repo sand tires..  looks so good. B)

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Here is the back side.. M3  (10mm) screws and nuts.

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Took a few random shots with my SWB M38.   Seems the @nicherotors is even shorter wheel base than the SWB M38!

Will take it for a spin later today.

Added rubber switch cover from M38.

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Front is significantly wider than the M38.. I should narrow it a bit.. 

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These Tamiya factory painted bodies are meh..  I think I’m going to paint the entire body. 

Update.. Definitely going to paint it to my usual scheme.. this body is off my other GF01.. 

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Edited by Willy iine
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Finally got Volt Alarm(s) so i can out the Lipos in C..Avante. I used 3.2 as alarm setting (for each cell ofc) and tried to Gaffa tape it to get the sound a bit down. As this is 4wd (even if this is a small model) i knew from the start that this kit needed Lipo to shine and even with Battery in Storrage mode i can see right away that it goes much better.

Do you think its ok to drive with this Lipo alarm in the Snow?, i have the alarm in the plastic bag it arrived in.

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1 hour ago, simalarion said:

Finally got Volt Alarm(s) so i can out the Lipos in C..Avante. I used 3.2 as alarm setting (for each cell ofc) and tried to Gaffa tape it to get the sound a bit down. As this is 4wd (even if this is a small model) i knew from the start that this kit needed Lipo to shine and even with Battery in Storrage mode i can see right away that it goes much better.

Do you think its ok to drive with this Lipo alarm in the Snow?, i have the alarm in the plastic bag it arrived in.

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I like your Avante!  I should build mine too.. 

LiPo likes to be above 3.7v, so I think I set my alarm at 3.7 or 3.75 or something.  

I think you’ll be fine if unexposed to water and taped onto your chassis so it does not fling around.   I usually use fiber tape to secure or mount on velcro. 

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Decided to use the thinner hex hub and cut the axle thread on the front to make the front track narrower. 

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Still wider than the M38, but the front to rear is staggered so it looks correct. 

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Nearing completion for the 1/24 Karmann Ghia. All that are left are the extremely fragile mirrors. 

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And also completed a Mini 4WD, the Dash-001 Great Emperor. This one is fully painted as it will be a shelf queen being a rere of a 3 decade old chassis from my childhood. Hopefully they will release a RC version of one of the Dashes.

Naked with 13mm bearing SS rollers. 

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Fully dressed. 

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8 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

Nearing completion for the 1/24 Karmann Ghia. All that are left are the extremely fragile mirrors. 

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Looking very nice to my eyes.

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Did a bit of what I started yesterday after a migraine knocked me around a bit.

Painted in the windscreen & rear window rubbers. I’ve also had some Angel Eye headlights in the spares box that were intended for my Mini but are to big to fit, so tried a mock up on the Escort. I think there’ll do the job nicely 🙂

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Too busy juggling work and kids today so didn’t get the chance to go check out the hotshot and clod. Did get a brief run out with the GF01 Land Cruiser, the first since fitting the new ESC, servo and radio gear. I’m also now running it on 2S Lipo. It’s like a totally different car. Will stick with this combo for the next couple of builds (two Wild ones) I reckon.

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I bought some wheels, but I'm worried I made a boo boo.

I was looking for chrome or white wheels for the GF01. I found some rear wheels + tires for the mad bull. They were quite a good deal at £12 for a pair of real wheels and tires. I ordered a couple of pairs. 

Although the tires + wheels were for the mad bull, but also started to work with the WR02 - does this mean they'll also work for the GF01? £24 for the tires and wheels for the GF01 seemed like a good deal - but now wondering if I've made a mistake? In my mind two sets of rears for the WR02 should work back and front on the GF01.

Like @Willy iine I've also pick up a green Radio Shack Ford F100 body - so I want to avoid the green/yellow look too much. I may strip the chrome and paint white/grey instead. 

 

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11 minutes ago, Nikko85 said:

I bought some wheels, but I'm worried I made a boo boo.

I was looking for chrome or white wheels for the GF01. I found some rear wheels + tires for the mad bull. They were quite a good deal at £12 for a pair of real wheels and tires. I ordered a couple of pairs. 

Although the tires + wheels were for the mad bull, but also started to work with the WR02 - does this mean they'll also work for the GF01? £24 for the tires and wheels for the GF01 seemed like a good deal - but now wondering if I've made a mistake? In my mind two sets of rears for the WR02 should work back and front on the GF01.

Like @Willy iine I've also pick up a green Radio Shack Ford F100 body - so I want to avoid the green/yellow look too much. I may strip the chrome and paint white/grey instead. 

 

Yes, they will fit fine. Depending what you are after but RCMart currently has both the R31 House slick and buggy tyres on sale. They are big though:

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1 minute ago, GeeWings said:

Yes, they will fit fine. Depending what you are after but RCMart currently has both the R31 House slick and buggy tyres on sale. They are big though:

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Many thanks that's a relief. I've looked that those RC mart tires and they look great - but the postage to the UK is quite expensive and I like trying to get a bargain. If I sell the tires I'll have got the rims for around £7! 

 

 

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1 minute ago, Nikko85 said:

Many thanks that's a relief. I've looked that those RC mart tires and they look great - but the postage to the UK is quite expensive and I like trying to get a bargain. If I sell the tires I'll have got the rims for around £7! 

 

 

Oh, that is a great price. And yes, I dread to think I have spent just on shipping fees in the last few months. There have been far too many RCMart orders 😳

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5 hours ago, GeeWings said:

Oh, that is a great price. And yes, I dread to think I have spent just on shipping fees in the last few months. There have been far too many RCMart orders 😳

Yeah, it was around £12 for the rims and tires . For the GF01 Chrome wheels best I could find was £19 + postage, so this way I've spent £24 plus postage and got 4 extra tires. As I've got a GF01 and Tamiya QD MT having a set of 115 mm tires is always good! 

I've avoided any overseas orders so far - as I'm always worried about it getting lost, waiting in port for 6 months, or hidden costs. You do miss some total bargains, but it keeps it easier!

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@Nikko85 Yeah, freight can get expensive so I usually just order a bunch and use their FedEx option at RCMart.  I stopped using them for a while earlier in the year because they were really unresponsive when I had to wait months for my orders.

But then I could only source those slick tires and wheels from them so just bit the bullet.  

 

In other news, I got my GF01-SWB set up to where I like it.  Suspension is setup soft and lower than my usual GF01 and now running a Savox 1251MG and aluminum servo horn with no servo saver action.   I only drive my cars in my makeshift track and I don’t usually crash so no issue.  I have a couple of high torque servo savers on order so might swap to that later on.

Car drives very well.   

The dog bones are clicking at times (due to the lowering) so ordered a couple sets of Tamiya universals as well. 

Delicious and proper amount of negative camber. B)

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E6000 glue dried for 24 hours on Firestorm Tyre setup, but first i glued on the ESC again! (But today with Gorilla mounting tape as even the 3M double tape gave up on me) ofc i washed with alcohol first and the Gorilla one is much better i could tell right away, then i mounted the Tyres and added some threadlock. So, Agrios is all ready to go now, if weather is ok tomorrow i wll take it out for a spin.

So!, Agrios is now a more complete Monster-Truck and went from looking kind off handicapped to the Badass i believe it was suppose to be out off the box:spacer.pngspacer.png

Edit: Ahh ofc some tyres are the wrong way, forgot to check that after i added first. Ok, out off bed and fix since its threadlock on and all…Sight

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Began painting the Beetle shell for the car I am building for my daughter for Christmas and oh boy, it's a lot harder than it used to be. It's been at least ten years since I last painted an RC shell – probably closer to 20, to be honest – and a lot has been lost in the meantime. I used to have a technique which involved brush painting details like lights, window frames and some sponsor logos, then masking off and spraying larger single-colour areas, starting with dark colours and finishing with lighter ones. It used techniques I had practised when I was much younger on 1/32 slot car shells, which I used to do entirely by hand, and which I got so good at painting I once won a concours class at the BRSCA UK Nationals. Without wanting to big myself up too much, I was good at it. Good enough that I won some trophies for it and made some pocket money from painting RC shells for other people.

But my eyesight has not improved over the intervening time and I am now finding it very hard to see what I am trying to paint and hold the brush in a stright line, as I can't see where the polycarb is against the background. On top of this, it seems it is very hard to find paint suitable for brush painting now. Pactra is no longer sold and the water-based paint I have managed to find is too thin and runny for the task as it is designed to be used in an airbrush. I will get the job done, no doubt, but I fear the results will not be up to my previous standards and maybe disappointing. It looks like I am going to have to dig out the airbrush and compressor I bought a couple of decades ago and learn how to use it.

Meh.

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Having recently returned to painting small things like I did in my teens, I feel your pain @Yalson. It sounds like the airbrush will be the way forward.

And don’t forget you reached that competition level with practice - it takes a few goes to get rid of the rust. I’m sure your daughter will be pleased because you made it.

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Finished wiring up the ESC to the motor in my SA, calibrated the ESC and ran it on the bench. It scared me lol (first brushless set up I’ve done). Can’t wait to run it outside.

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@Cynan That looked tidy, picture was also so clear i first thought it was a picture taken from a RC webshop.

what is SA?.

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