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Boxing day is a lazy day for my family as all family Christmas parties are on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day. So there is plenty of time to build Lego with the little girl or do some RC stuff. So I managed to finish the Mad (Tiger) Fighter. I've installed the driver, made some additional detailing on the body and build a battery holder from styrene as I don't want to spend €16 plus postage for the complete tree. It will definitely work for now.

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More pics in my project thread.

After that I cleaned my building space for the next project. My wife gave me this lovely kit for Christmas. :wub:

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Edited by Aerobert
Forgot the pics.
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Finished off paranoid Perry and his cockpit on my super avante and tidied up the electrics switch it on for its first run and to make sure everything is true and straight!......first time ever I've got it spot on first go! Well done me!!!😆 

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About 6 months... This is the time my son needed to break something on his Lunchbox, good proof how much the CW-01 chassis is strong enough... I'm quite surprised it did not happen before... He succeed to broke a rim while running full speed to an improvised jump (not sur if it is the jump or the reception which led to this...
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My son has 5 cars, and the Lunchbox seems so far the most full proof car:

  • Traxxas Slash - a rear axle broken in first hour
  • DT03 - a chassis broken after 3 weeks
  • Super Storm Dragon - doesn't run much but the rear body/suspension mounts are broken after 6 weeks
  • Lunchbox - about 6 months, and a rim broken...
  • TT-02 has not run yet doesn't really count :)
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On 12/25/2021 at 2:30 PM, Sgt.Speirs said:

Working on an alternative transmission (TRF201) for my Nissan King Cab chassis due to the original ball diff is worn out:

7e71bf14-0448-4689-al9k18.jpeg

 

Looks interesting mate, are you documenting this anywhere?:)

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Attempted to move radio gear from the V5 Golf Mk4 but realized halfway into things - the MC112B speed control is too big for the Frog and the new included speed control has the newer style Futaba connector while my radio equipment has 3 pin male connectors.

So we're stuck for a bit until I figure out what I want to do.

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Love the way the black cans look.  I need a few more black sport tuned for my cars.  Harder and harder to find.  I wish the sticker was placed so you read it from the back.  

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Unwrapped my "present" today (my family practice unwrapping presents on Boxing Day) and since I bought it, there is no real "excitement". But what is exciting is I can finally get the Green Slim that was accidently wrapped into the present and I cannot do much for the last few days as it is required for shocks and diff. 

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31 minutes ago, Kol__ said:

Looks interesting mate, are you documenting this anywhere?:)

I‘ll planning a build log here in the next days/weeks.

So everybody who is interested can follow this ;)

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It seems this day is a very successful RC day. :D I've just changed the stock steering in my Dirt Thrasher to a blue alloy one. The main drive shaft and the servo mounts were changed some days ago as they were previously mounted in my Top Force.

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Nothing exciting, but since I got done putting up the sound baffles and canvas painting on my music room walls much faster than I thought, I decided to install the winch hook on my GF01-SWB WW2 body.. only for the hook to break at the rope post while installing. :blink:

So fixed it with a short dowel.  :lol:   Once dry, I will repaint the area and install on my WW2.  

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Final touchs for my Bear Hawk rebuild. Now, time to drive ?!

Repro decals from MCI, that was not as best as I expected, but for a runner it's fine.

 

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Two cars for two nephews. One was a 21 year old Tyco Toy Story 2 car, and the other a radio shack. I had used the body of the radio shack on my gf01 monster truck, so this got some Lego base plates hot glued to the chassis, so he can make a Lego car or monster truck or star wars crawler!

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80% finished in masking the body. Black trim before dark silver as the main body color.  Paint masking only covered the front windshield and part of the side glass  had to make my own for the rear side windows and rear window  ACDB3C83-FC9B-4D1C-AA7E-31739AF7C800.jpeg.f9441a1963903686d83cbb138cd477f6.jpegAB84125F-8807-4A9D-ABE9-BAF4F7050C06.jpeg.cccb6f6e0b0858393cbccfdb1f222b1c.jpeg3DB774CF-F41B-408E-8723-F6D09D7034F6.jpeg.bad56ff1ebb0e7a11aff80db6e755dca.jpeg

Received a servo for my belated birthday too!
 

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Now that I got my Green Slime out of my "present", I can crack on with my builds, starting off with 2 sets of shocks. 

3Racing M05/6 aluminium shocks

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And shocks for a mystery build. 

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Presents from the bargain bin at the hobby shop today, only three dollars for everything! Brand new Rustler wheels for only $2? How could I resist?

I'm actually more excited about the caster blocks, which will be used for the front suspension on the Nikko Big Bubba. Of course, I still need to finish the rear suspension, but at least I can start mocking up the front in the meantime.

And in a pleasantly surprising development, my wife has expressed a bit of interest in getting an RC of her own at some point :D

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My lexan BRAT body was on the porch this morning at 6:30am.  Who knows when the USPS works anymore.   Heh.

I'll be masking that tonight.   Still gotta find oil based paint.  Will probably check Hobby Lobby today for the badword of it.  Or I'll check some hobby shops in Florida while on vacation this week.

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Finished masking.  2 colors, main dark metallic silver with black trim. 50D44870-2F3D-4EA1-9CE0-D9FFA8AB210B.jpeg.0fe8d699ca0e8543d94adb37cab726bf.jpegpaint looks good but upon closer inspection it is transparent when looking through the body. 
45942A99-EE7E-45BA-BDB2-64CDB8C66455.jpeg.3db17ecf17162fba39b963545ac9ef05.jpeg762C894C-3BF4-44AC-AD33-5F77CAA10C41.jpeg.a3d0300ed1b8f6416d2c3817b952b9d7.jpeg5BC6AA59-57E6-40D7-AA18-3A73464BBEEE.jpeg.a2d006891428a56bc8105bfb79a560dd.jpeg

from the outside it is not too noticeable…

877B0DC4-77CA-4AA1-9CB2-2DC98677FACF.jpeg.c768ee35f3187061681cb54a841eff8c.jpeg0F3A5D39-BB5F-4193-A25C-C192FDE66B04.jpeg.bc5007bc19166db70f2411df8cebff95.jpeg208E99DA-8653-40A0-8C50-472C5FC5579C.jpeg.c89b477bdc62a3ba7ae15fcc1a6e4e3a.jpeg

need some advice:

1. Get another dark metallic paint can and add another coat?

2. Paint with black as the under coat?

3. Leave it as is?   Overall prob not notable when on the car low to the ground   I will need to make sure the light buckets are properly sealed. 
 

Also I do like the look of the yellow masking tape for the headlights… anyone know how I can apply transparent yellow polycarbonate paint or film on the cheap?   I do not want to spend crazy money on a rattle can for just small headlights. 

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@Frankster I would give it more coats.. and it appears you have some spitting from the paint can.  This usually happens when the can is tilted downward too much, painting too close, or pressure inside the can is too low (can might be too cold or spent).

Take your time and buy more cans of paint if you don't have any.  You will want to lay down a clean even layer of the base color before you apply any other backing colors.. otherwise it can show through. GL!

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Started my BH wild one! First time I've built a wild one!

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1 hour ago, Frankster said:

. Get another dark metallic paint can and add another coat?

This, in fine layers. It'll fade away to the point you can't see it. Had this on my Terra Scorcher, soon vanished. Just make sure the can is super warm and fully shaken before you spray. 

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On 12/26/2021 at 1:39 PM, JeffSpicoli said:

Love the way the black cans look.  I need a few more black sport tuned for my cars.  Harder and harder to find.  I wish the sticker was placed so you read it from the back.  

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Nice buggy there Jeff :)

Back in the day I used to spray enamel over the silvercans. What I dislike a lot about the new ones is the silver endbell. Looks super tacky on some cars imho.

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A damp day here but ran hotshot on the Christmas lipo and it’s a stormer, may need to invest in new gears though sounded a bit off…

However a damp road did not agree with the TL01!

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