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24 minutes ago, Re-Bugged said:

Maybe the Aluminium needs a bit more meat?

Not true either as Tamiya fronts on my M-05 takes 1050s while YR ones on this M-06 takes the stock 1150s. Bizarre is all I can say. 

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It is true there are all sorts of different aluminum grades in hardness and casting characteristics.. . just because one was casted at one thickness does not necessarily mean it translates to another. 

 

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31 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

It is true there are all sorts of different aluminum grades in hardness and casting characteristics.. . just because one was casted at one thickness does not necessarily mean it translates to another. 

 

That is true, but I will expect the same brand to just use one grade, we are not building an aircraft here after all and will probably cost them more to formulate and have different grades of materials.

So YR, for example, will probably be using the same grade for their front and rear hubs, yet their fronts takes the kit 1150 sized bearings but rear takes the smaller 1050s. 🤷

Also, such silliness can probably be designed out. The difference is just 1mm extra thickness after all. 

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2 hours ago, whahooo said:

Today iv'e fitted my Bigfoot shell on the Clod.

Sadly it sits a bit lower in the Back because the Bodyposts are lower for the clods lowered bed.....

16412940862031775932819.thumb.jpg.fb627716bf4dd48d8eb01abe25128c99.jpg

 

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What are the mods to the clod buster?  She looks great

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12 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Besides the new rere Egress and Porsche, what other cars do you own?

@Willy iine Far too many. Though in the world of TC, you can never have too many, right?

Mostly a collection of TL-01 rally cars and various buggies (+the Blitzer series).

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32 minutes ago, Frankster said:

What are the mods to the clod buster?  She looks great

Not much:

2 aluminium anti rotation bracets 

1 aluminium Chassis Brace from China

8 120 mm duakeate Shocks from China

2 25T GT tuned Tamiya Motors

Ballbearings

4 Planetary covers

A chinese Soundmodule

8,4 Volt Battery

Self made anty sway bar

Lexan Body and

Stickers for around 50 or 60 Euros for ****** Stripes on its Side!

 

I think thats it. I spent around 200 or 250  or even 300 or more Euros on Hop ups and don't know where they went

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Completed the Rebuiltd of y neo scorcher I fortunately had a spare bathtub that I bought just in case. (After driving this into an invisible steel post.) . and everything else was salvaged or I had a spare, the YR lower arm is a bit distorted so won't be featuring any more. 

IMG_20220104_194156.jpg

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@whahooo I’m about to start a bit of a rebuild of a clod I recently purchased. Can you tell me about the planetary covers and also what you did for the sway bar?

 

24 minutes ago, Yoshimitsu said:

51800071624_56ea977dc8_k.jpg

 

Looking great as usual @Yoshimitsu looking forward to seeing it develop!

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8 hours ago, msgimartin said:

@Willy iine Far too many. Though in the world of TC, you can never have too many, right?

Mostly a collection of TL-01 rally cars and various buggies (+the Blitzer series).

Too many is the correct count.  :D  Looking forward to seeing your various projects!

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A bit more work on the Vanquish restoration.  The rear arms, dogbones and cups, rear bumper and front lower arms are now installed.  Had to stop there.  I need a 25x3 tapping screw for the rear bumper because the original is bent, as is one of the inner hinge pins for the lower front arms.  

20220104_221710

 

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WPL D12, cut down to 176 mm wheelbase, QD Pumpkin body added.

m3PYCgW.jpeg

UobywPj.jpeg

I'll do a full build post tomorrow.

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Printed some axle stands, painted them and put them direct to use (not scaled)

eepmo4m.jpg

kgz0uda.jpg

OdxIHO9.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Nikko85 said:

WPL D12, cut down to 176 mm wheelbase, QD Pumpkin body added.

Nice. I’m looking forward to more details. Where did you perform the surgery? I can’t tell any difference from my D12 as I remember it (I haven’t got it in front of me)

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@Lee1075 Cool jack stands!  Actually I bought a couple for my GF01-SWB the other day.  For some reason this chassis keeps slipping off the WR02 tire stands so decided to just jack stand them up at 4 corners like in your picture.   Hope to receive them soon.

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@Willy iine, hope it works out for you :)

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5 hours ago, GeeWings said:

Can you tell me about the planetary covers and also what you did for the sway bar?

The planetary covers are from Pro Line.

They are not made for the standard wheels and you have to drill 2 little holes in the wheel.

 

The swaybar is made from Pianowire that i have bent and covered with shrinkungtube, attatched with zipties.

 

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Thanks @whahooo that’s a really useful and interesting thread as the Clod I purchased recently is like new and run once before living on the shelf:

0EE3FCFB-6C05-4AEE-81B4-0AF2CC385007.thumb.jpeg.a7e4653ece83100a654fa8eeef524567.jpeg

But it’s stock out of the box so I plan to make some basic upgrades to start with and then see how I go. I’ve also got a half-baked plan to use one of my Pro-line F100 shells on it as a runner:

782F19BA-245D-4FBC-85CB-751383428C7C.thumb.jpeg.a9cc7adcf4ca1f19c7e31072987a68cc.jpeg

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While not Tamiya, I did my first weathering job tonight.    Figure best I learn on something small and not too valuable in case it didn't go well. 

 

WPL C44 w D12 2WD Chassis.jpg

WPL C44 3.jpg

WPL C44 2.jpg

WPL C44 4.jpg

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@OnTheTrail that looks excellent. I would have thought you were a veteran at this, not someone doing it for the first time!

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9 hours ago, GeeWings said:

Nice. I’m looking forward to more details. Where did you perform the surgery? I can’t tell any difference from my D12 as I remember it (I haven’t got it in front of me)

I took out a section of the main chassis rail, just 16 mm, and I also remove the back section where the battery would usually be placed.

I also cut down the shaft to allow for the shorter wheelbase.

The quality isn't great to be honest - but it's very light, fast and has a tiny turning circle. I wish Tamiya would make something similar, but with Tamiya build quality. 

 

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53 minutes ago, Nikko85 said:

I took out a section of the main chassis rail, just 16 mm, and I also remove the back section where the battery would usually be placed.

I also cut down the shaft to allow for the shorter wheelbase.

The quality isn't great to be honest - but it's very light, fast and has a tiny turning circle. I wish Tamiya would make something similar, but with Tamiya build quality. 

 

Cool, thanks.

I’ve not even tried mine yet as it was delivered to my office ages ago and I’ve not been back to bring it home. All I did was open it and have a quick look.

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Put on custom Tyre decals for the shelf wheels of my impreza 07.... As always a pita because it didn't stick on the old rubber (discarded semi slicks, although washed with soap water), so CA had to help... 

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2 hours ago, GeeWings said:

Cool, thanks.

I’ve not even tried mine yet as it was delivered to my office ages ago and I’ve not been back to bring it home. All I did was open it and have a quick look.

So, this is what I did.

I cut the chassis U channel just after the screw attachment tab in the middle of the car, cutting out about 16 mm.  I then drilled four 3mm holes in the reinforcement struts in the channel, and then placed a stainless steel threaded rod through these holes. 

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Then I epoxied over the top of this bar, locking the bar into place, and the two halves together. 

OZTFTpL.jpg

I could smooth and sand this back, and fill to make it look perfect, but I'm happy with it mechanically. It's now got a 70 x 3 mm bar holding it together, and that is under a lot of strong glue, which will also help stick the halves together. The best option would probably have been finding a U channel that could sleeve over the original and then bolting both sides to this, but I didn't want to spend too much, and to be honest, it's solid and works.

65tZ5cf.jpg

Car itself is pretty fun to drive, but not quite sure I get the hype.

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