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9 hours ago, SupraChrgd82 said:

Got me an Element Knightrunner and immediately disassembled it.

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So that’s the ARTR version now then?

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8 hours ago, Yoshimitsu said:

@Mad Zero

I'd be keen to know what the surround is like to. 

A good tip I picked up on here was (if there's an indent to work with) Apply a large peice of masking tape along the indent then with a new blade run your scalpel along the indent and remove the tape leaving the surround. 

Make sure it's pressed down, then apply your chosen paint. I have never used an airbrush but I imagine it's ideal for this kind of thing. I just used Tamiya flat black acrylic, several coats to eliminate bleed.

Remove tape, Roberts your Mother's Brother.

I'm sure there are better ways. Folk on here are a mine of info 👌

Thanks (all) yes there is an indent but it changes profile as it goes around. My first attempts were along the lines suggested but due to the nature of the way the indent is moulded tape masking all amounts to cutting a freehand parallel line, imagine Edward Scissorhands as a sign-writer.
I’ve also tried lining tape with liquid mask to give me the negative (rough edges) , liquid mask with the indent wipes out with an ear bud (wobbly freehand) and various combinations of the above to get the king straight lines (I’m happy doing the corners freehand with a brush). 
Don’t worry too much tho it’s just a mediocre model I built over Christmas I’ve largely lost interested in. 

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2 hours ago, Mad Zero said:

Thanks (all) yes there is an indent but it changes profile as it goes around. My first attempts were along the lines suggested but due to the nature of the way the indent is moulded tape masking all amounts to cutting a freehand parallel line, imagine Edward Scissorhands as a sign-writer.
I’ve also tried lining tape with liquid mask to give me the negative (rough edges) , liquid mask with the indent wipes out with an ear bud (wobbly freehand) and various combinations of the above to get the king straight lines (I’m happy doing the corners freehand with a brush). 
Don’t worry too much tho it’s just a mediocre model I built over Christmas I’ve largely lost interested in. 

Yes, sometimes it seems there is no easy way. Often from the outside there appears a nice crisp line to follow but the lines inside the shell are more complex to follow. Could you use a paint pen and just run it along the edge?

I did see a very impressive solution on Instagram where someone was cutting out the windows, applying wire flex as rubber seal then reapplying the windows. It looked amazing! 

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10 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Another special thanks to @FourthProtocol

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Now I need to take on my wife’s challenge of making a rolling tool case.. 

Maybe after I build my Egress?  :lol:

Makes me think of a segment from the "D-Generation" Australian comedy show from the 90's. It was called 'Sh*tscared' an frequently featured a 'thumbs-up' pose while wearing a crash helmet. Some other Aussies might remember it.

 

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Soooo today I made the hugest mess of my workbench :blink:

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This build scratches an itch - something not American, European, or Japanese.

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40 minutes ago, FourthProtocol said:

Soooo today I made the hugest mess of my workbench :blink:

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This build scratches an itch - something not American, European, or Japanese.

Ooooh, that looks interesting. Would love to see more pictures. 

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I actually FINISHED something :lol:

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Chassis is a TA04-SS bought 2nd hand and rebuilt and restored to box-fresh. 

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It came with an uncut and unpainted TT body shell, but no stickers. It's been painted and sat on the shelf for weeks....

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The RB livery sticker set is utterly impossible to find, but I did manage to track down a pretty ropey scan which was somehow enough for Nathaneal at MCI to come up with the goods. With what he had to work with, I think he did a pretty amazing job, and I finally got around to applying all 60-odd of them :)

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15 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Another special thanks to @FourthProtocol

IMG_2022-2-3-182306.jpg.eb04a15292126f1ed8c872cf8436b57e.jpg

Now I need to take on my wife’s challenge of making a rolling tool case.. 

Maybe after I build my Egress?  :lol:

Is that a stock front bumper for the sand scorcher?

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1 hour ago, Frankster said:

Is that a stock front bumper for the sand scorcher?

No that is an eBay front bumper.  (okay that sounds bad) :lol:  LOL

 

@Juhunio  And all this time I thought you were just stocking up your RC store.  :lol:

 

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Nothing R/C , but I did pick up my new car 😁😁 😍. It's actually stunning with the optional body styling pack on it. It's pitch black outside so hopefully get some good photos of it tomorrow. It also happened to come with a few optional extras that I never knew it had specced 🤔👍

James 

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19 hours ago, Frankster said:

These are generic from AliExpress. Yeah racing has same set at a higher price. I also picked up a set @alvinlwh showed but the post and magnets end up in the rear windshield glass area.  

This is another generic one I picked up from AliExpress.  Takes a while to arrive. 
 

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Thanks. I did a search for the previous image with the double articulated ones and have ordered the same. I see what you mean about lead times though - April... 

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I went to Brussels today to pick up my signed copy of the Optima House artbook and meet Ryo aka optimaforever. Very talented and kind RC guy. If you love looking in RC catalogues I can recommend this artbook 100%. The picture of the turbo Optima on the beach alone is worth buying the whole book, it's better than the one on the grass in the 1987 Kyosho catalogue IMHO. 

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Took the regeared 3R M4 out for a test drive today after the disaster last week. 

App said I should get 17mph.

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But GPS speedo recorded 22+mph. Thinking it was a mistake, I reset it and tried again and still the same. 

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I wonder... 

And while it is not quite a disaster compared to last week, "only" 20mph winds today, but while driving into the wind at 20+mph, a 35mph gust ripped the body right off (last week was a 50+mph gust). This time, it actually blew the shell away from me towards a live road, luckily I managed to catch up with it. 

Turns out it was the paint that ripped out, the glue and magnets actually still stayed on the mounts. 

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1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

Took the regeared 3R M4 out for a test drive today after the disaster last week. 

App said I should get 17mph.

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But GPS speedo recorded 22+mph. Thinking it was a mistake, I reset it and tried again and still the same. 

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I wonder... 

And while it is not quite a disaster compared to last week, "only" 20mph winds today, but while driving into the wind at 20+mph, a 35mph gust ripped the body right off (last week was a 50+mph gust). This time, it actually blew the shell away from me towards a live road, luckily I managed to catch up with it. 

Turns out it was the paint that ripped out, the glue and magnets actually still stayed on the mounts. 

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On speed, how odd. I collected no data but when I moved from 17t to 19t on my buggy I didn't think it was much faster with the motor I have, which suggested to me that under the higher gearing I didn't have the power to overcome things like wind and rolling resistance to get to top rpm, at least not quickly, while under lower gearing I perhaps did.

That's bad luck on the body mounts. Not that lovely orange NSU shell? Gives pause for thought on magnetic mounts and perhaps finding ways to ask less of the paint - stick magnet to a larger piece of lexan which you then glue over a larger paint area?  Certainly it makes magnetic mounts look like a bad idea to me on an off road lexan shell, which is something I was half considering. 

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I'm waiting on delivery of magnetic body mounts to put a lexan shell on my M-05. Now I'm not so sure anymore...:wacko:

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1 minute ago, Tamiyastef said:

I'm waiting on delivery of magnetic body mounts to put a lexan shell on my M-05. Now I'm not so sure anymor...:wacko:

Magnets are fantastic for concourse cars with no pre-drilled holes.  

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8 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

Magnets are fantastic for concourse cars with no pre-drilled holes.  

But not ideal for drivers cars?

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On a driver, I guess you want to be sure the bond between the magnets is considerably less than that between the shell magnet and the shell itself, so they let go as they should. How you go about working that out is another matter...

I might try them on my Kamtec white shell though, where this wouldn't really matter, and the bond wouldn't rely on paint. 

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40 minutes ago, Tamiyastef said:

But not ideal for drivers cars?

If you don't crash chances are you'll be fine, so I'd use it if the bodies did not come pre-drilled.   But if you're racing your car then I'd probably just use clips.

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1 hour ago, BuggyDad said:

On speed, how odd. I collected no data but when I moved from 17t to 19t on my buggy I didn't think it was much faster with the motor I have, which suggested to me that under the higher gearing I didn't have the power to overcome things like wind and rolling resistance to get to top rpm, at least not quickly, while under lower gearing I perhaps did.

That's bad luck on the body mounts. Not that lovely orange NSU shell? Gives pause for thought on magnetic mounts and perhaps finding ways to ask less of the paint - stick magnet to a larger piece of lexan which you then glue over a larger paint area?  Certainly it makes magnetic mounts look like a bad idea to me on an off road lexan shell, which is something I was half considering. 

Ah, it makes sense now, wind. It is blowing 20mph, gusting to 35mph at the time I was running. Must be a tailwind that helped it gain that speed. I changed more than just the pinion, I went from a 24T pinion and 80T spur to a 30T pinion and 75 spur, FDR went from 6.67 to 5.00, but that is still not the sweet spot for the silver can, which I saw on another forum to be 4.00. I had since found 48T pinion and 48T spur, which will give a FDR of 2! Going to try that and see what happens. 😁 On that note, on another chassis, I ran a 34T pinion and 69T spur and I got 20mph as the app calculated, bang on the money, but that one was tested on a calm day. 

What happened is the Vallejo smoke tore off. I had always known that Vallejo will not "stick" as well as, say, PS. But didn't expect it to tear off this well aged (over 5 months since done) shell. The paint just forms a film over the surface without bonding to the underlying paint. It is now stuck on to polycarbonate spray although Absima instead of Tamiya one. I will see how it goes. If it still fails, I will Shoeglue duct tape down where the magnets will go. Then stick the magnet down to the tape, I used Shoeglue which can be removed from the magnets (metal) easily enough when I was prepping them for regluing, but in this case, it did not "let go" with the wind. If Shoeglue don't work, I will look into epoxy. 

The reason I used magnetic mounts on this shell because I do not want to make new post holes in it as it don't line up with the 3R M4 chassis at all. I believe you are planning to use such mounts on a hard shell? So you will be fine as you can quite literally use the strongest glue, 3M VHB or No-More-Nails tape for mounting. 

This is a basher/tester shell although that NSU was actually bought for the same purpose. (BTW the NSU had already suffered some paint rub by the battery wires)

This shell already had a hole torn into it months ago, just a day after I completed it. 

 

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1 hour ago, Tamiyastef said:

I'm waiting on delivery of magnetic body mounts to put a lexan shell on my M-05. Now I'm not so sure anymore...:wacko:

 

1 hour ago, Tamiyastef said:

But not ideal for drivers cars?

If you do not live in one of the windiest part of the UK like I do, AND you do not run when it is above Force 6, or when there is a weather warning in force, you should be fine. If you do, you may find that your car/shell is the least of your worries. 

Having said that, they do not stand up well to crash, or even bumps. The magnets "let go" when the car caught some air and the landing bump knocked the body off. Note this is a MTC like a M-05 (in fact this shell was previously used on a M-05) so I wasn't doing real jumps with it. Also, (was it you that I actually replied to?) magnetic mounts are not great if they end up where the body magnets cannot be adjusted to match the mount magnet. Only 3 out of 4 of my magnets latches on flat and squarely. 

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49 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

If you don't crash chances are you'll be fine, so I'd use it if the bodies did not come pre-drilled.   But if you're racing your car then I'd probably just use clips.

It really depends on a number of factor. Even if I do not crash, as a basher, I noticed that my clipped bodies straining the body posts during high/full speed corners. Meaning there is quite a bit of force pulling the body sideways. If it is a large or heavy body, then it will probably pull/slide right off the magnets. Of course, with me running them in high wind (or like last week during a weather alert), the magnets stood no chance! 

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1 hour ago, BuggyDad said:

On a driver, I guess you want to be sure the bond between the magnets is considerably less than that between the shell magnet and the shell itself, so they let go as they should. How you go about working that out is another matter...

This is easy, stick a piece of paper (or sticker) on the magnet, if still too strong, another and another until the desired "suck" is achieved. 

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14 hours ago, Willy iine said:

No that is an eBay front bumper.  (okay that sounds bad) :lol:  LOL

 

@Juhunio  And all this time I thought you were just stocking up your RC store.  :lol:

 

@Willy iine Can you share a link of screenshot?

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