So, What Have You Done Today?

[Frankster 2033]

3 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

Also @BuggyDad

Here is how I did my next car, with the different brackets. 

I Shoeglued duct tape to the body, then glued the magnets to the duct tape. This way, if it tear out, it will tear off from the tape instead of directly risking tipping off the paint. The bond to the slick duct tape don't appear to be great, but Shoeglue take ages to dry so have not fully tested it yet. If this still fails, I will try No-More-Nails tape, which had been proven to be extremely strong and long lasting on my phone holder to phone case connection. 

Does this solution work as I am trying out magnets myself. 
 

also how did you fix the paint on your other NSU car after the magnets pulled the paint off? 

[Beetlemankurt 676]

@Frankster, Yep it works. I tried a slightly different variation as I used the aluminum tape used for Hvac systems that you get from hardware stores  as it's sticky as anything!

I did this method as the glue I used first time around on the magnets melted the paint which then led to me using tape as a barrier.

The tape has held up really well over time, ripped it once but just stuck it back down again and it's been fine since. I suppose that depends how strong your magnets are too.

Kurt

17 minutes ago, Frankster said:

Does this solution work as I am trying out magnets myself. 
 

also how did you fix the paint on your other NSU car after the magnets pulled the paint off? 

 

[alvinlwh 5895]

24 minutes ago, Frankster said:

Does this solution work as I am trying out magnets myself. 
 

also how did you fix the paint on your other NSU car after the magnets pulled the paint off? 

I just did this yesterday, so did not have a chance to test anything out yet. The ideal is to glue the duct tape to the paint (larger area than the magnet) to spread the load. Then glue the magnet to the duct tape so that if it pulls off, it will pull off from the duct tape which is securely glued to the paint instead of directly from the paint. 

On hindsight, I could have just use No-More-Nails tape directly on the duct tape, so if this method don't work, that's what I will go to next. Applying the tape directly to paint maybe a bad idea due to possible concentrated force. 

Hope I make sense. 

EDIT: the paint that pulled off does not need repairing as it was the overspray of the smoke for the windows. Under it then is the real white roof and that one did not pull off. 

[GeeWings 2830]

1 hour ago, Tamiya_Cars_4_Life said:

So, what have you done today?

Today I've been impressed and scared in equal measure by this:

1 hour ago, Tamiya_Cars_4_Life said:

Runs around 55mph!!

[SupraChrgd82 1425]

Sprayed the flares and bed with bedliner and mounted the Club5racing chase rack on the Knightrunner. Tomorrow I’ll make an attempt to mount the roof luggage rack in straight.  It’s almost done…

 

[Re-Bugged 10150]

Starting mocking up what stickers to put on the Terra Scorcher, rummaging around the spare stickers I have some from the 2CV could be trimmed a bit to work…

But I’m thinking a few of the kit supplied ones are best after all, maybe with a stray one from something else on the back? More for the colour than anything.

[Frankster 2033]

Painting my Porsche 911 RSR white.  How many PS cans do you typically use?  Also do you back paint the cars in silver or black?

1 can white + 1 can of silver?   Any advise is appreciated 

[Aerobert 2145]

1 hour ago, Frankster said:

Painting my Porsche 911 RSR white.  How many PS cans do you typically use?  Also do you back paint the cars in silver or black?

1 can white + 1 can of silver?   Any advise is appreciated 

I would go with one can of white, then 2 or 3 layers of silver and then black as I like the shells dark inside.

Here was a discussion not so long ago. Maybe it helps.

 

 

 

[Frankster 2033]

45 minutes ago, Aerobert said:

I would go with one can of white, then 2 or 3 layers of silver and then black as I like the shells dark inside.

Here was a discussion not so long ago. Maybe it helps.

 

 

 

Thanks @Aerobert for link to other discussion. 

I have a white body in progress.  Will try 1 can of white + 2 coats of silver and 2 coats of black + permanent marker for body panel gaps. Wish me luck

[Willy iine 18806]

Painted the Egress body today.  I am making this one box art so used Tamiya’s PS Bright Silver.   I basically used the entire can, left a little just in case I need to touch up later.  

I will see if I can start the decals later this afternoon.  

Now getting ready to head downstairs to drive my Willy cars.   

[Willy iine 18806]

2 hours ago, Frankster said:

Thanks @Aerobert for link to other discussion. 

I have a white body in progress.  Will try 1 can of white + 2 coats of silver and 2 coats of black + permanent marker for body panel gaps. Wish me luck

I caution you to have a very even white coat before you apply the silver and other layers especially if you are going to paint in a cold stairwell and possibly feel rushed.

I personally do not layer colors as it is difficult to tell how even the base color is.  

The silver I painted this morning in a HVAC controlled room taking my time.. I still would not trust myself to layer black as I can tell it is not completely even under intense light, so I only used silver.  

(I can use white over silver but the effect is about the same as layering more silver so I don’t do it)   

GL! 

[topforcein 1764]

7 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

Starting mocking up what stickers to put on the Terra Scorcher, rummaging around the spare stickers I have some from the 2CV could be trimmed a bit to work…

But I’m thinking a few of the kit supplied ones are best after all, maybe with a stray one from something else on the back? More for the colour than anything.

personally i would apply as few as possible seeing the beautiful paint you have achieved  should not be cover'd up

[Willy iine 18806]

2 minutes ago, topforcein said:

personally i would apply as few as possible seeing the beautiful paint you have achieved  should not be cover'd up

Yes me too, just enough decal accents only.  

 

[Willy iine 18806]

I got tired of using a Dean to Tamiya adapter on Billy’s Beetle so cut the TBLE02S wire a generous amount to attach a Tamiya connector back on the ESC and made a Tamiya to Deans adapter for when I need it. 

[Frankster 2033]

9 hours ago, Willy iine said:

I caution you to have a very even white coat before you apply the silver and other layers especially if you are going to paint in a cold stairwell and possibly feel rushed.

I personally do not layer colors as it is difficult to tell how even the base color is.  

The silver I painted this morning in a HVAC controlled room taking my time.. I still would not trust myself to layer black as I can tell it is not completely even under intense light, so I only used silver.  

(I can use white over silver but the effect is about the same as layering more silver so I don’t do it)   

GL! 

Thanks @Willy iine   All painted by the time I read your message.  I have same concerns with even-ness. Between coats, I hold body up to light to see the areas I need to apply more PS paint. I did have another can of white in storage but wanted to try the silver route with final black backing.  Will send photos tomorrow.  

BTW, do you score the window masking edge first before removing?

*edited for spelling and grammar.  Sorry was half asleep when typing

Edited February 14, 2022 by Frankster
Spelling

[Willy iine 18806]

12 minutes ago, Frankster said:

Thanks @Willy iine   All paint by the time I read you message.  I have same concerns with even-ness. Between coats, I hold body up to light to see the areas I need to apply more PS paint. I did have another can of white in storage but wanted to try the silver route with final black backing.  Will. Send photos tomorrow.  

BTW, so you score the window masking edge first before nodin

I mean if you can achieve a nice even coat, layering different colors is no problem.   If your coat is thick you will want to very lightly score the masking tape edges while removal.. but the whole purpose of using backing layers is to have a light coat so not sure if you need to.  

Maybe in the future if you only need basic colors (or want to make custom colors),  you can look into acrylic paints you can just brush on.  Then you can paint inside your room or bath room with the vent running if you need it.  Acrylic polycarbonate paint (the one I use) have almost no scent compared to enamel/lacquer and is non-toxic.

[alvinlwh 5895]

An unusually calm day so took the kids out for a walk with friends, and of course a drive.

 

 

 

[Willy iine 18806]

@alvinlwh  Loving the first picture above!   

[silvertriple 3557]

Each iteration is getting closer

Small details in the oven for the rear wheel and will be finished...

[alvinlwh 5895]

1 hour ago, Willy iine said:

@alvinlwh  Loving the first picture above!   

Unable to get any running pictures as I cannot drive and take pictures at the same time. The 2WD Holiday Buggy didn't do too well, too much brunches around causing it to ground out. Should have brought the Thunder Dragon with 4WD instead. Did enjoyed the water splash though. 

[Aerobert 2145]

Cleaned and refilled the dampers of my M-02. Does anyone know what dampers these are?

[InsaneJim69 1584]

Ermmm I cleaned the real car today.....

I do however have my 1997 and 1998 Laguna BTCC cars ready to go in the living room. 👍

James 

[Nikko85 3454]

Not a very exciting day, but got a few things done. In my initial design of the 1/14 MF01X trail truck the battery doors were bolted onto the truck on both sides, and needed a hex driver to replace the battery. Solid, but not ideal, I mean, who wants to have to use tools to replace a battery..

I used two body extension mounts to create a horizontal attachment bars on one side, so I could use clips to take off the battery door (and replace the battery).

After some flip flopping I decided to go for the 2000 mAh 7.4V lithium Ion battery I got from Amazon. This is smaller and lighter than the 4500 mAh 4.8v NiMH four cell, and gives more speed, so I'll probably drop the power on the dual rate so the battery lives longer, even at 50% speed this has got enough to be very nippy. Limiting speed through D/R rather than voltage means I've got more flexibility - I can drop the speed to 60% for a similar experience with the 4.8v but I've then got the option of a much faster vehicle if wanted. 

Before work both sides looked like this:

And with two body posts..

Not the clearest photo, but here the two horizontal body mounts with clips now secure the door, so I can replace the battery without tools. The doors themselves are these:

From IKEA, spares found at work.

The large hole is just large enough to take a Tamiya lead, so the wire can do through the door! 

 

[Willy iine 18806]

@Nikko85 Nice idea.   I too keep those anchor brackets and repurpose them all the time!  

 

Okay.. taking a quick break.. will finish the body today, I think.  My wife hasn’t called me with her honey-do list today so keeping a very low profile…  shhhhhh.. i'm not here..

 

[Nikko85 3454]

I also found a way to convert the QD monster truck to hex and widen it  by around 5 cm, which should give it far more stability as it is quite roll prone, especially with a much faster motor. It's now almost the exact same dimensions as the lengthened GFO1, which is cool. This also means I can swap out bodies and wheels with the GF01 too, so it's a mix and match between the GF01 and QD.