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1 hour ago, Kol__ said:

First battle scars...

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I have the same battle scar on my MB.  Others have installed Lunchbox tires (lower and wider) on factory wheels to minimize roll overs

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I bought a GF01 Landcruiser kit on eBay to take advantage of a 20% off EOFY eBay plus offer. I can put it next the BNIB WW2 I bought a few weeks ago. 

Still not sure what I'm doing with either car, but they can sit there for a while before I decide.

I've also been given an original Wild Willy by someone who didn't know what to do with it (it's in a very sorry state) and TBH I have no idea where to start!

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@lsear2905 having quickly looked up the offer you mentioned I’ve purchased another one too 🤫 It seemed rude not to at that price 😂

Getting an original WW sounds exciting. There are plenty of resources, not least here at TC, that should be helpful. 

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1 hour ago, GeeWings said:

@lsear2905 having quickly looked up the offer you mentioned I’ve purchased another one too 🤫 It seemed rude not to at that price 😂

Getting an original WW sounds exciting. There are plenty of resources, not least here at TC, that should be helpful. 

I'm glad you got that offer. I've realised I now need to buy 42 bearings (26 for the GF01, and 16 for the WR02) so I'll bulk buy from China and just wait...

I'm going to disassemble the WW, clean it all up and then do a stocktake of what I have, and what I need. My concern is that if I need a new grill, new tires (and I suspect a lot more) then it won't be economically viable, or even particularly fun. I'll keep you all informed! 

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1 hour ago, lsear2905 said:

I'm glad you got that offer. I've realised I now need to buy 42 bearings (26 for the GF01, and 16 for the WR02) so I'll bulk buy from China and just wait...

I'm going to disassemble the WW, clean it all up and then do a stocktake of what I have, and what I need. My concern is that if I need a new grill, new tires (and I suspect a lot more) then it won't be economically viable, or even particularly fun. I'll keep you all informed! 

Yes, it was a great price. 

My plan is to put a Wild Willy body on mine along with some of the @simensays 3D printed parts.

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IMG_2022-6-21-073620.jpg.b29311f8a09d709d76975610e9d41935.jpg

:ph34r:

Cleaned up my entire pretend RC shop today. :D   That MiniZ is in the worst location next to where I sand the bodies and plasticards near an outlet HVAC register so can get pretty dusty after a build.  

The rest of the shop does not get much dust.  I can go months without dusting the cars fortunately.

IMG_2022-6-21-084929.jpg.f16845cd7d361a5e5f414aac1c19fad7.jpg

Edited by Willy iine
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Once said, you can't un-see it @Willy iine I had been staring at it for ages. I had a feeling the emoji was dust-related. :D

I'd need a mushroom-cloud emoji given the state of my garage...

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16 hours ago, Kol__ said:

Lovely work @Juhunio, I did the same with my DF-01 shocks. I went with Boomerang piston rods. I'm really not a fan of the fixed metal pistons, no adjustability at all there.

What did you use? The 50601's for the front and 19805917's for the rear?

Cheers! I am committed to keeping this as close to bone stock as possible so thought I would give the one piece pistons a go...but, nah!

Yes those are the rods I used, all left over from my DF03 build :)

 

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Built a device that I don't understand, and now need to learn to install code on it that I REALLY don't understand. :D  I did power it up and the smoke stayed in, so phase one was a success.989576019_MFU3.thumb.jpg.e17538ebda3abd1d04b14b4562ed3202.jpg

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On 6/16/2022 at 1:43 AM, OoALEJOoO said:

What an awesome place to run! Get some corner markers for a track layout and it would be a real blast.

It could be that the 6xAA is starving the motor during hard acceleration. Playing with the ESC voltage cut-off can give you some hints. Having it disabled would let the battery provide any power available to the motor, which could be insufficient under high-power demand. Having the cut-off enabled will trigger if indeed the motor is starved.

This is what happens when I run a 6xAAA pack on anything other than a T3-01, say a TT-02. With voltage cut-off disabled all punch is lost, while having it enabled makes it totally undrivable. The T3-01 however, is a rocket with the 6xAAA pack since it's a very light vehicle.

I installed a 7.4 Li Ion pack and it roared to life, honestly can't wait to try it now. 

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@Yoshimitsu my first ever car age 17 was a v reg Ford escort in red I put rostyle (think that's how its spelt?) Wheels and spotlights on the front! I thought I was the dogs dangly bits in that carB) right up until the time I bumped into the back of a VW beetle and because of those big spots the brackets they were on pushed the slam panel right back bursting the radiator and busting the water pump:(

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This is my second driver dude I’ve ever done. The first was the monster beetle guy which turned out ok. But  This time  I tried my best to give more detail. 🙈.  But I’m learning. Hats off to you guys who pull this off effortlessly.  Still some fine touches to sort out. But almost there. ISH!!  

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Today I did some work on one of my favourite models of all time, my 4WS WR-01 Twin Detonator:

2022-06-22_10-19-32

Since day 1 it has been running plastic geared servos and has never skipped a beat, but being in need of two steering servos for my racing teapot, I decided to get two metal geared ones for this beast and move its existing servos to the teapot which its based on an M-03 and has no need for heavy duty servos.  

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I took my two monster trucks out for a quick blast. They look similar but are very different. The red one is a GF01 with lengthened wheelbase, new shock positions and a 1/14 scale monster truck shell, the other is a Pumpkin Quick Drive with brushless 12T 2030 motor and 2 cell Li-Ion battery with a widened wheelbase. They are both now almost exactly the same dimensions, although the GF01 is almost double the weight of the QD. Whilst the GF01 is much more mechanically complex they both have a charm of their own.

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Last time I drove the QD pumpkin I was using the 7.2v NiMH AA pack, and the acceleration wasn't great, this time I swapped for a 2 cell Li-Ion and it was an absolute rocket!  

Despite the tiny motor it was faster than the GF01, although struggled with traction and doesn't put down power through the transmission or  wheels anything like as smoothly. Driving on the loose gravel and dust was a challenge, the QD has a tendency to slide around, pushing out the back and will easily drift into an unintentional slide, so going straight is not so easy.

I may play with the punch (and even EPA) of the QD to give a balance between outright speed and drivability. Whist I'm there I should probably add the voltage cut off - I'm not quite sure what the deal is with Li-Ion batteries - they seem to be much more common than Li-Po for normal uses (laptops etc) but are not without risks either.

I'm almost done with these 1/14 Monsters, I've got another QD to make up (9.6v AA into an 18T brushless motor) and a Radio Shack  4x4 which I'm going to try and turn into a high traction high torque crawler (essentially a GF01TR at 1/10 the price!).

 

 

 

 

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Build the gearboxes of my new fire dragon, It took me some time to get them perfectly smooth, had to polish the gears with a file and cut some excess mold away with a knive,  I think it cost me 2 hours, but it was worth it, now they are smooth as butter.52165732331_36a205dd6b_k.thumb.jpg.458a7ea74cf8ce333c636dc1db1f09ac.jpg

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No RC today, besides making a stand for my nicherotors Wheeler later on tonight.

I was organizing my RC battery charging station and realized my 12V (25A) power supply on the lower shelf (I use a different dual charger for NiMH) is from 1997.  :lol:  .. but this thing is still going strong,   I have a smaller one in my garage I bought at the same time (10A) where I use it for bench testing car electronics.  

IMG_2022-6-22-160320.jpg.9c536b3fcd627851c74fd348659ea4be.jpg

A quick stand I made for the nicherotors Wheeler.   It holds the car at the arms so the tires do not droop.   Will let the glue dry for an hour or so.. 

IMG_2022-6-22-172946.jpg.985abb3bec876881ac28c5bec021dfff.jpg

Edited by Willy iine
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Clamping hubs for The Hornet.  Such a fine car that takes to modifications so……..poorly.  But it’s so dear to my heart I can’t help but give ‘er the red carpet treatment.

42C1D20A-94FB-40FE-A599-3D269C231169.jpeg

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9 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

Today I did some work on one of my favourite models of all time, my 4WS WR-01 Twin Detonator:

2022-06-22_10-19-32

Since day 1 it has been running plastic geared servos and has never skipped a beat, but being in need of two steering servos for my racing teapot, I decided to get two metal geared ones for this beast and move its existing servos to the teapot. 

Nice looking truck, very clean with nice wheels and tyres  Big fans of that chassis in this household. Hopefully some developments to share soon.

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Despite my early optimism, the CVAs on the TT02-B are still knacked

I used the DT02 set (54567)

They are stuck, stiff as a board. It takes an inordinate amount of pressure between thumb and forefinger to get them to compress. Enough to squish a banana. Maybe even a plum.

Once they're 'de-stuck' they're fine, moving very smooth and free. But if I leave them for 5 minutes they seize up again

I've switched in the fancy aluminium dampers from my DF03 to make sure its not the TT02B suspension arms that are sticking, and it all moves freely with those dampers in place so it's not the suspension. Must be the CVAs

I've ditched the one-piece pistons in favour of two-piece pistons and rods, ditched the black o-rings in favour of red, thoroughly greased the o-rings....but they still stick :(

Any ideas? 

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