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Hummmm.. as I was placing my ClubBug on the stands, I noticed the fender paint cracked again.  I need to go back and check, but I think it was this same side that cracked months ago. :wacko:  Dang it.. I can spot repair it again so no big deal, but just a hassle.  

IMG_2022-8-7-163232.jpg.25d822d8e7e1e2099acdbfb0732e9c0f.jpg

Update.. Yeah, went back to 12/18/2021 and it was the same side.. what the heck.  I will strip away all paint in that area this time, not just the battleship red (blue).. Something is wrong with the shrink rate with the white under it.  

Even got rid of the ugly orange peel last time too..  oh well.  

IMG_2022-8-7-164447.jpg.abed73445fa9661bec392eea796ddd11.jpg

Edited by Willy iine
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3 hours ago, Busdriver said:

Finished my first Porsche/TT01-E. it’s a non box art VIP Cup racer. Usual bearings, oil shocks and pinion but with a 13.5t brushless motor. It’s in Core RC metallic graphite paint with the red accents being Tamiya Mica red. Those eagle eyed members will notice that the rear spoiler is not the kit one, in fact it’s the one from the Europa. This body isn’t the prettiest Porsche but at least the wheelbase fits!!! D6B9FB40-80F7-4E29-8035-12C05244B2DC.jpg 8A42856A-4294-449C-A164-762603CA38F5.jpg

 

That came out looking great!

Love the red accents. Your color choice worked perfectly!

-RC Perspective

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I built the ball diffs and completed the rear end of my Avante Black.

y4miSv-I8DsdRr8fpHTBxM1SV1hg17JkPvSlXqu1

Big catch was me noticing the front gearbox bevel gears binding at the appropriate point of the build. The problem turned out to be a tiny excess mold flashing on the propshaft bevel.

y4m9DGh38I3pPoGVVZ_iQNYYzazp7qnOz1U9Tzi6

Surprising how slow a build it is. There's a fair amount of screw organising needed all the way. And whilst I'd heard about the play in the metal ball joints, it was only as I'd completed and connected the rear wishbones I got a feel for how bad it actually was. Mine''s only going to be a light runner, but it's astounding this was ever signed off to be a top-end racer, even in 1988.

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21 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

 

DF0C893F-406E-4E77-8AA4-10A12572C5F3.md.

What a joy to see & hear the Knight Hauler chugging around to complete the race where the other two temporarily failed 😁 It’s the first time I’ve given the big rig a proper run, and it definitely won’t be the last 👍🏻 

 

 

Never thought I'd say this to another lad but

Good to see you got your semi out for some fun in the fresh air 🤣

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Today I was planning on some racing by post, but sudden torrential rains put a halt to that plan. So I took out the usual suspects instead, and ran them in the few moments of breaks between thundershowers.

Screenshot-20220807-211717-Video-Player.

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Screenshot-20220807-212432-Video-Player.

Screenshot-20220807-211105-Video-Player.

Screenshot-20220807-144611-Video-Player.

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Masked up the body of the LRP Twister Buggy. 

WCKkrE9.jpeg

I hate reverse masking! 

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For me, sanded down the fenders on my Billy’s ClubBug in prep for fresh paint.  Upon close inspection, both fenders had cracks in the paint.. 

I could tell from removing the initial blue layer that the crack was not between the Racing White and Blue.. it was between the Primer and Racing White TS paint.  

IMG_2022-8-8-083752.jpg.d734665c6ae15a3d63478f8049ac5228.jpg

To solve such problem, the quick solution is to take away all paints from dumb builders like me.  :lol:

The root cause was due to me using gray putty on this car where I should’ve been using white to minimize primer layers.. I think the primer did not have enough time to cure before I started applying the thick layer of white, followed by blue.  

I used more primer along the hood and nose pieces to clean up the parting line.  The fenders also got primed as I sprayed across the body and I think my can was too close resulted in the thick layer of primer that did not get a chance to fully cure before it received the white TS layers.  The rest of the car has no cracks including areas I primed.. 

IMG_2022-8-8-083812.jpg.10318d05065e2f68fd55e2a8ac1533c4.jpg

Will mask and fix her up later today.  :D 

IMG_2022-8-8-090627.jpg.0807685809b4eeb40b71d4c5145d5323.jpg

Update..  Going to hit it with some paint.. wish me hope.  :ph34r:

IMG_2022-8-8-110049.jpg.a2009e7d55de6d822d3c39bd5a828c7b.jpg

Update.. relying only on hope, battleship red paint went on nicely.. 

IMG_2022-8-8-114255.jpg.6135cc7014829a52602803481462b437.jpg

Update.. Had two bleeds due to insufficient hope..  :blink:

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So micromeshed them out..

IMG_2022-8-8-133651.jpg.d5749e86a052b9ea667fa6eed9a9b7f8.jpg

.. and she is back in business.  :D 

IMG_2022-8-8-133811.jpg.35a0370b36cb1472e7d8de72bb69a0fd.jpg

Finally back to where I was supposed to be this morning.. :ph34r:

IMG_2022-8-8-134535.jpg.2c888afc2cce7a9251e25950c0f83ab3.jpg

 

Going to work on some shop decore next for Willy's shop.  :D 

Edited by Willy iine
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4 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

Masked up the body of the LRP Twister Buggy. 

WCKkrE9.jpeg

I hate reverse masking! 

What will be your color scheme? 

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1 hour ago, No Slack said:

What will be your color scheme? 

Undecided yet. I am thinking PS-56 mustard yellow sides and black (if I can find some black) centerline with a bit of clear left to see through (like the Super Astute). 

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4 hours ago, Willy iine said:

For me, sanded down the fenders on my Billy’s ClubBug in prep for fresh paint.  Upon close inspection, both fenders had cracks in the paint.. 

I could tell from removing the initial blue layer that the crack was not between the Racing White and Blue.. it was between the Primer and Racing White TS paint.  

IMG_2022-8-8-083752.jpg.d734665c6ae15a3d63478f8049ac5228.jpg

To solve such problem, the quick solution is to take away all paints from such dumb builders like me.  :lol:

The root cause was due to me using gray putty on this car where I should’ve been using white to minimize primer layers.. I think the primer did not have enough time to cure before I started applying the thick layer of white, followed by blue.  

I used more primer along the hood and nose pieces to clean up the parting line.  The fenders also got primed as I sprayed across the body and I think my can was too close resulted in the thick layer of primer that did not get a chance to fully cure before it received the white TS layers.  The rest of the car has no cracks including areas I primed.. 

IMG_2022-8-8-083812.jpg.10318d05065e2f68fd55e2a8ac1533c4.jpg

Will mask and fix her up later today.  :D 

IMG_2022-8-8-090627.jpg.0807685809b4eeb40b71d4c5145d5323.jpg

Update..  Going to hit it with some paint.. wish me hope.  :ph34r:

IMG_2022-8-8-110049.jpg.a2009e7d55de6d822d3c39bd5a828c7b.jpg

Update.. relying only on hope, battleship red paint went on nicely.. 

IMG_2022-8-8-114255.jpg.6135cc7014829a52602803481462b437.jpg

Its so sad and scared with these masks on headlights :(

Do everything right, we believe in you B)

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2 minutes ago, SimTechRC said:

Its so sad and scared with these masks on headlights :(

Do everything right, we believe in you B)

Thanks!  It turned out okay.  :D  Just sucked that I wasted so much time just to fix it.  But this is a special car to me, so worth the trouble.  

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44 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

Thanks!  It turned out okay.  :D  Just sucked that I wasted so much time just to fix it.  But this is a special car to me, so worth the trouble.  

if it's not a secret, what binds you to this car?  i love cars, but cars with history are in a separate category.  At one time, I became interested in rallying thanks to the game Richard Burns Rally, so when I saw a body with the name Burns on the window, I had no doubt that I would buy it for myself.  And thanks to its, I found out what Tamiya is and ended up on this forum.

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16 minutes ago, SimTechRC said:

if it's not a secret, what binds you to this car?  i love cars, but cars with history are in a separate category.  At one time, I became interested in rallying thanks to the game Richard Burns Rally, so when I saw a body with the name Burns on the window, I had no doubt that I would buy it for myself.  And thanks to its, I found out what Tamiya is and ended up on this forum.

Interesting travel path to get to this site!  :D 

For me, this is a special body I made (inspired by JennyMo's original design) taking a section out of the Sand Scorcher.. I did two others with the similar set up.

IMG_Oct22021at14144PM.jpg.5ff75cfd61ae4c4fd6c61cbfcef17d7d.jpg

IMG_Oct62021at60547PM.thumb.jpg.291faea88901f9e0176696a23b487194.jpg

The battleship red reference is the fenders on these cars are using battleship red paint by Tamiya.   :D  White balance is off in the picture, the red is a lot darker in person.  

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So by the time I got to making decorations for Willy’s shop, I was so tired I ran out of ideas.  lol :lol:

Banner..? :ph34r:

IMG_2022-8-8-172107.jpg.0968463f66cc4a3fadb753172cbc99aa.jpg

IMG_2022-8-8-172127.jpg.9d1d7cfd6fd5c532f57975d676ea987b.jpg

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I built the front end on my Avante Black.

I have no intention of using the provided shocks and have the appropriate set of VQS HiCaps ready to go. But I thought I could get clever with the front end and run a hybrid Avante 2001 setup, using the appropriate tower

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No I can't... That's throwing the metal balljoints at the only place they'll fit. I'd be OK swapping out to "regular" balljoints to fit them to the lower screw (actually lower than the default Avante setup), but the body mount on the 2001 is way higher than the default Avante. I'll cut to the obvious choice of using the correct X-shaped shock mount...

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Sunday I drove the E-Revo (and made it very muddy), Kyosho Mini Z, which I touched up with some Gundam markers, and then bought a new RC boat.

PRB08041T1_A4_SEDQK1RO.jpg.jpg?quality=8

I spent yesterday waiting to see if it had shipped yet. I checked again this morning. It has not.

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Finished masking up the wing of the LRP Twister Buggy as well. Now ready for painting when the paints arrives. 

ran7XRw.jpg

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I’ve been trying to locate where I packed all my rc building tools for the move, been through everything many times and still nothing :( Have found a couple cars in eggs and a mini skyline though :)

1440A824-4FE7-47F4-9F76-22AE0E99D72B.thumb.jpeg.c08936f0f8901a632d19e4ab458f7716.jpeg

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So for today, want to make sure Willy stays awake while working on his cars so decided to make another mug.  

IMG_2022-8-9-101015.jpg.f364baee87a0f18b1bed8eb66ed73566.jpg

My funny he think he is son recommended I make a “MEN” sign for the back.  

.. No.  <_<

Update.. so apparently I was not the one awake.. :blink:

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And take 2  :D 

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Update.. painted the mug and coffee.. also started making casters for Willy’s next accessory.  :D 

IMG_2022-8-9-155139.jpg.ce0593b82900ed34810e2400f25848a8.jpg

Final update for the day..  mug is complete with coffee black.. and sanded the casters.  I will add posts tomorrow and make a frame.  :D

IMG_2022-8-9-180142.jpg.e3e077f264d5455608ca25b79e0265f1.jpg

Next up after the next accessory I will make a stool for him and place the mug on that. 

IMG_2022-8-9-181358.jpg.6319e3193d1e6bd31883bc70964a7b42.jpg

Encore post..(?)  So I didn’t like how long the handle was so cut about 4mm off and reattached it. 

I think this look more the part.  :D  

 

IMG_2022-8-9-185257.jpg.77770e64d8ba7da66b4440ac29b6f6d7.jpg

Edited by Willy iine
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I made a rolling chassis.

y4mKsi9IavRHQaFK23vSJx5PrQpuksrZFMLRW_GD

Waiting on delivery of a carbon tower for the front shocks. It would run like this, but you wouldn't want to do anything too exciting with it. Next up is the body. I've shot a test on a scrap of polycarb and can't wait. Definitely something to see outdoors.

PS sorry Perry, but I needed to know I had room behind for the receiver and ECU.

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On 8/9/2022 at 12:31 AM, toyolien said:

Today I fitted some Tamiya Aeration Dampers on to my Optima Mid:

jV7jekb.jpg

 

0ANdIlA.jpg

 

So wrong, but so right - I imagine they will be a much better performing shock, mainly because they will still have some oil in them after a few runs!

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