So, What Have You Done Today?

[Willy iine 18806]

@Ferruz Nice job trying to figure out the ESC positioning.  That lip on the aluminum chassis is a pain for sure.  On my aluminum lower deck MID I run a 1060 so the foot print is small standing on its side.  I have this 240S ESC which Kyosho recommends in their manual.. this one is going on my Fantom however.

If you decide to do the lower CF deck, your possibilities become more open.  I run a XR10 no issue.

[Frankster 2033]

29 minutes ago, Kol__ said:

Today I fitted original wheels and tyres to my DF-01, added an RX, and tested and set up the electronics. Here she is, sitting next to her little, but more sophisticated brother. Now she's ready for a run🙂

Nice Manta!   What did you do to the front shock towers?   Looks like a cap or something over the top.  

[Willy iine 18806]

29 minutes ago, Kol__ said:

Ah man that car is so sweet Willy, it's like a Japanese version of Eleanor (if you seen Gone in 60 seconds). Makes me very tempted, it's £250 in the UK.

Thanks!  Yeah, I loved that movie with Nicholas Cage and Angelina Jolie.     

[alvinlwh 5895]

Finished replacing all the plastic balls on the MTX-1 with metal balls. There must be like 40 in total. Feels far more lively now with no suspension binding.

Also replaced the servo mount plate with a metal one. The only hopup I got for it so far.

[Ferruz 11702]

3 hours ago, Kol__ said:

Today I fitted original wheels and tyres to my DF-01, added an RX, and tested and set up the electronics. Here she is, sitting next to her little, but more sophisticated brother. Now she's ready for a run🙂

Those shocks look perfect with the box art! 😎

[Frog Jumper 3661]

Replaced the kit CVAs on my CC02 with some Desert Lizards…

 

[Ferruz 11702]

3 hours ago, Willy iine said:

@Ferruz Nice job trying to figure out the ESC positioning.  That lip on the aluminum chassis is a pain for sure.  On my aluminum lower deck MID I run a 1060 so the foot print is small standing on its side.  I have this 240S ESC which Kyosho recommends in their manual.. this one is going on my Fantom however.

If you decide to do the lower CF deck, your possibilities become more open.  I run a XR10 no issue.

Thank you for the tips, I might just fall for that CF deck eventually. And that black/red Mid...

[BuggyDad 4475]

6 hours ago, Ferruz said:

...like, a lot. 

🤣

Luckily for me my wife doesn't think I'm going crazy,

 

I hate to break it to you but I think she's just humouring you til help arrives... 

😉

[BuggyDad 4475]

7 hours ago, Ferruz said:

Now, I knew it was going to be a tight spot for the ESC... but still 😳  not a task for the claustrophobic. I haven't played Tetris in forever, and this just felt like it, though at least you can bend the cables! I lost count of how many hours I spent trying to make it fit. It was harder than expected, also because I was going to sacrifice the fan to better fit the ESC, but decided against it last minute. Also, am I glad I did some thinking ahead and figured out the electronics together instead of just installing the motor a see the ESC later (they barely mention or draw the cables in the manual 😆). I would have had to take it apart again for soldering/fitting cables.

Anyway, after many attempts, I think I found the right position for the ESC.

It's not attached yet, I'll do that once I solder the cables and make sure everything fits and that the servo can still "serve"!! Very tight in there indeed. I think I might even gently drill two holes in the bottom of the ESC casing so that I can fit it flush with a spacer and two bottom screws as per the manual... it would feel so nice and tidy. And once firmly set in that spot, it won't protrude any further than the battery tray:

That's it for today. Excited to keep going.

Thanks for reading and sorry about the extra blabber!

Interesting. I have the same coming up - same ESC - I hadn't appreciated it was quite so tight in there, and screws into ESC casing is a new one for me. 

6 hours ago, Willy iine said:

@Ferruz Nice job trying to figure out the ESC positioning.  That lip on the aluminum chassis is a pain for sure.  On my aluminum lower deck MID I run a 1060 so the foot print is small standing on its side.  I have this 240S ESC which Kyosho recommends in their manual.. this one is going on my Fantom however.

If you decide to do the lower CF deck, your possibilities become more open.  I run a XR10 no issue.

I was considering buying the YR carbon fibre parts set for mine. I had thought the lower deck might be less beneficial, because there's not much value in saving low down weight, right? And because it'll get scratched up. But if it's a big deal on layout as well then maybe I'll have another think about that. Does CF improve this just because it's wider so you have a bigger platform on which to mount the ESC, or does it also somehow help you to mount it inboard a little? 

[toyolien 4681]

8 hours ago, Ferruz said:

I wish I got one with black cables as @toyolien did, but it's ok, no big deal. 

Mine came with the same colour cables as yours but I just took them off and replaced them with black wires instead 👍

[Kol__ 3377]

7 hours ago, Frankster said:

Nice Manta!   What did you do to the front shock towers?   Looks like a cap or something over the top.  

Yeah, I picked up a set of these to protect those shocks.

CR-0006 Black Plastic 1/10 Scale Shock Absorber Damper Cap Protector x 2 RC -

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403791147593?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=KLXIDDUuTtW&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=tZpl78SaSly&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=EMAIL

They'll likely only get a short number of runs, so I'd like them not to get damaged if possible🙂

[Re-Bugged 10150]

Got the Turbo Scorpion electronics finished and working today. I had to dremmel a hole at the front end of the battery compartment to get my LiPo Stick pack to fit.

Drivers head also completed and painting has started on the body. 

[moffman 5752]

8 hours ago, Kol__ said:

What exactly is going on here?😂😂😂

I perfectly understand what's @Ferruz is doing here😆 (I think?) I've been doing it to my front one since last year but unsuccessfully in my case🙄 I took mine to my LHS yesterday and the consensus was it could be when I've cut the plastic bottom shaft guide off the sprue I've cut the actual guide so its slightly smaller than it should be so we ordered a new sprue and see what happens? 

[moffman 5752]

2 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

Interesting. I have the same coming up - same ESC - I hadn't appreciated it was quite so tight in there, and screws into ESC casing is a new one for me. 

I was considering buying the YR carbon fibre parts set for mine. I had thought the lower deck might be less beneficial, because there's not much value in saving low down weight, right? And because it'll get scratched up. But if it's a big deal on layout as well then maybe I'll have another think about that. Does CF improve this just because it's wider so you have a bigger platform on which to mount the ESC, or does it also somehow help you to mount it inboard a little? 

Yeah I bought the YR carbon fibre set (much cheaper than buying it all separately and way cheaper than the kyosho CF) I put it all on apart from the main chassis simply because it was going to be a bit of a pain to change over and the alloy chassis is slightly wider and I kinda like the look of the mixture between carbon and alloy and the fact that the YR carbon is black and silver really does go well with the alloy

[BuggyDad 4475]

55 minutes ago, moffman said:

Yeah I bought the YR carbon fibre set (much cheaper than buying it all separately and way cheaper than the kyosho CF) I put it all on apart from the main chassis simply because it was going to be a bit of a pain to change over and the alloy chassis is slightly wider and I kinda like the look of the mixture between carbon and alloy and the fact that the YR carbon is black and silver really does go well with the alloy

If alloy chassis is wider then the YR cf one would make ESC fitment even harder wouldn't it? 

[Willy iine 18806]

4 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

Interesting. I have the same coming up - same ESC - I hadn't appreciated it was quite so tight in there, and screws into ESC casing is a new one for me. 

I was considering buying the YR carbon fibre parts set for mine. I had thought the lower deck might be less beneficial, because there's not much value in saving low down weight, right? And because it'll get scratched up. But if it's a big deal on layout as well then maybe I'll have another think about that. Does CF improve this just because it's wider so you have a bigger platform on which to mount the ESC, or does it also somehow help you to mount it inboard a little? 

On my yellow MID I run the Yeah Racing CF set and it’s a nice setup for the price.  The CF itself uses silver weaves so it has a lot of bling.  The CF is basically the same width as the aluminum lower deck, but since it is perfectly flat unlike the aluminum deck you have more mounting options for the ESC in addition to not having clearance issues with the servo horn with the bottom of the upper deck.  I have the 3rd party under tray for this car to protect the CF. 

There is the lower belt cover running down the near center of the lower deck so it does not necessarily help mount the ESC inboard.. but the flat surface gives one a lot more options on ESC orientation. 

My black MID uses all Kyosho CF.. that is my favorite out of the three set ups.   The quality is far superior* than the Yeah Racing CF.   Hope this helps.   
 

*I should note that if one takes the time to completely sand the YeahRacing CF edges and cement it, it can be as good as the Kyosho CF.  (wear mask when sanding CF)

 

[moffman 5752]

52 minutes ago, BuggyDad said:

If alloy chassis is wider then the YR cf one would make ESC fitment even harder wouldn't it? 

What I found is the carbon fibre chassis is flat which makes very slightly less space but still easier to fit the esc because the alloy chassis although very slightly wider is bevelled which makes it a bit awkward to fit the esc and Although I never fitted the CF chassis I did offer it up and the double sided tape adheres better to the CF aswell!

[Willy iine 18806]

So after getting a small dab of flavor working on touring cars again (Hakosuka GTR yesterday) after over 20 years, I think I'm going to start the 420X today.  I plan to make a few touring cars, but since they are too big and too fast for my makeshift track, I only plan to do a handful and move onto finishing my m-chassis collection and start a few Mini-Z. 

The 7PXR is nice.. I'm really glad I got it.  

[alvinlwh 5895]

End of my "staycation" so cleared the toys out of the conference room except a little SW-01 for some final fun before heading home.

[BuggyDad 4475]

4 hours ago, Willy iine said:

On my yellow MID I run the Yeah Racing CF set and it’s a nice setup for the price.  The CF itself uses silver weaves so it has a lot of bling.  The CF is basically the same width as the aluminum lower deck, but since it is perfectly flat unlike the aluminum deck you have more mounting options for the ESC in addition to not having clearance issues with the servo horn with the bottom of the upper deck.  I have the 3rd party under tray for this car to protect the CF. 

There is the lower belt cover running down the near center of the lower deck so it does not necessarily help mount the ESC inboard.. but the flat surface gives one a lot more options on ESC orientation. 

My black MID uses all Kyosho CF.. that is my favorite out of the three set ups.   The quality is far superior* than the Yeah Racing CF.   Hope this helps.   
 

*I should note that if one takes the time to completely sand the YeahRacing CF edges and cement it, it can be as good as the Kyosho CF.  (wear mask when sanding CF)

 

Thanks. This is good to know. I think for my use case the extra for Kyosho CF over YR would not be worth it, and I should be able to sand and glue edges no problem. Very fine paper I assume? 

[Busdriver 6209]

8 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

I hate to break it to you but I think she's just humouring you til help arrives... 

😉

In the 70’s that would have been X cert!!!!

 

[Willy iine 18806]

17 minutes ago, BuggyDad said:

Thanks. This is good to know. I think for my use case the extra for Kyosho CF over YR would not be worth it, and I should be able to sand and glue edges no problem. Very fine paper I assume? 

The edges are pretty coarse so I would use a file (with minimal force) and maybe finish #400-800 range?  

The hole positions are precise which was my main concern.  

GL with your build.  

[Willy iine 18806]

It's a pretty chassis for sure.  The kit only came with a spool for the front which I know will become an issue for me due to driving space, and the 10mm screw in one side would not fit into the drive cup to screw the cup onto the spool.. so I used a + head screw for that one side.. not that it's a huge issue, just one problem I found so far.  

After the test drive I will decide whether to get another diff or not for the front.  

Final update for today..  will continue on tomorrow!     Seems a very age appropriate kit for middle aged old folks..  It reminded me of my TOP Racing Sabre Mini’s.  Very high quality.  

Edited January 8, 2023 by Willy iine

[Ferruz 11702]

10 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

Interesting. I have the same coming up - same ESC - I hadn't appreciated it was quite so tight in there, and screws into ESC casing is a new one for me. 

As discussed above, the CF parts offer more options and less awkwardness when it comes to fitting the ESC, that's for sure. But if you want to stick to the kit's alu chassis and FRP upper deck, I feel like saying you can still fit a HW10BL120, you'll just have to sweat it a little!

Screws into ESC casing, yeah, sounds a little extreme. In general I tend to avoid invasive tweaks, but in this case I might do it: the ESC is right there above the two countersunk holes on the chassis, and the 6mm M3 screws that go there are exactly the lenght needed to grab into the ESC plastic casing and nothig else (therefore staying clear of the inner circuit board once fully tightened). It's tempting because it would keep the ESC still, flush and firmly into place, looking nice and tidy at the same time (of course a gentle pilot hole would need to be done). I'm sure there are plenty of other ways to fasten that ESC, but all I thought of so far would be more of an eye sore and feels not as effective. The ESC wires are pretty tough and I find that if angled enough -like in this case- they can pull it off the double sided tape, no matter its quality and the amount.

I'll think about it, can't work on it today anyway so I'll see when the time comes.

[Nikko85 3454]

More mucking around with another MF01x.

I had recently made the MF01x Pumpkin, but as I realised I wanted my CW01 to be a Pumpkin this left the MF01x chassis free.

I made this up with a single medium spacer, giving a wheelbase of 201 mm. As luck would have it I had a spare FJ45 body (£10 on Amazon!) doing nothing so I have made a new trail truck.

The wheels are Sand paddles tires over Abarth wheels painted white. I think it gives quite a sporty look, so I may give a racing/Dakar rally style livery. . The shocks on the CVA are much too stiff for this truck, so I cut some shocks from an old Radioshack which give a much softer spring, allowing some flexibility when on the rough stuff (i.e. if one wheel goes up the other stays down) which was not the case before. 

I had to make a new prop shaft from aluminium, but otherwise it was very simple. At the moment I've got a 21T motor and 18T pinion, but I'm going to drop this down to a Torque Tuned and 13T pinion to lower the speed and have good Torque. 

The bumper is made from the MF01x bumper place with a 3D printed upright part, ball connectors and a 5 mm aluminium bar. The bar was left over from a failed effort to make a prop shaft.

I've yet to drill the body mounts, as I may go for a silver shell I've got coming in, which would give me a silver (MF01x), blue (GF01) and orange (QD monster truck) collection but should look something like this:

I really like these shells, they have a quirky look to them that's very Tamiya. They are 1/12 scale and relatively accurate, if not that detailed. 

Here are the cut down springs.

Just the standard MF01x arms on this so not that wide. I do use 10 mm hexes that just about leave enough space for a non slip washer and thin nut. The wider hexes allow the wheels to run freely. 

 

Overall I'm pretty happy with how it looks. I've not been able to get to the park in ages with an RC car (we go twice a day so the baby can see the Swans and playpark!) but it's nice to have something back-garden scale, as I'm planning to make a trail there. I may run this as a faster truck, although I think at speed it might tip with the higher body and taller tires so it'll probably stay Torque Tuned at most. The 1/12 Jeep has a 35T which works nicely.

Of course I need to add a cat to drive it!