So, What Have You Done Today?

[Gruntfuggly]

Ouch! Sounds like you need more space...

Had my first attempt at drape moulding an inner tub cover for my Stadium Thunder. Needless to say it was a disaster. My mould is way too difficult to shape, so I'm going to have to do a version 2...

[Raman36]

Rebuilt the Dyna Storm runner's gear box with ceramic diff balls and new slipper clutch. Then broke both front wishbones, both C-hubs & bent universal in a speed & manhole induced cart wheel. not quite used to the 5.5 brushless power yet!

Think I need to find a more suitable place to run the cars other than the close I live in....

Ouch big time.

As a rule of thumb, 5.5 is too much for modern buggies. Most mod racers use 8.5. On an older buggy, the max I would put would be a 13.5.

[F2 Stu]

I'd say its my driving thats a contributing factor, but yes ive had a lot breakages from clipping kerbs on other cars, its a less than ideal enviroment but so conveinient!

incidents aside and its now fixed with it on charge for tommorow, It was hoot

[XV Pilot]

Today my wife and I took Gonzo and Happy Tractor (her Rising Fighter and my Farm King) on a geocaching outing to a new park we discovered on Google Earth. The cars had a good run, and we found the cache we were looking for. All in all a good day!

[backtomyroots]

Ordered everything I need except for the esc/motor for my upcoming TXT-2 Agrios build !

Then posted some questions specifically about the power plant options, ideas.

So, what have you done today ?

[HereBeMonsters]

They both got naked in the garden just now:

Nice chicken! We have a couple as well - they love chasing the scalers around the garden, a bit scared of anything quicker!

[Percymon]

Not much today, as been away for the weekend.

Have managed the build up a few turnbuckles, add the ball nuts and install them on the Vajra build - still waiting on my package form Jason for a plastic front upright.

[Daves956]

Well it's been the last day and half but I got a few things done and undone.

Took the javelin out for it's first outdoor drive and lost an upright screw after about 20 minutes. Was going fine until then.

End over end flipped the sc10 and dislodged the on off switch and the same rear tire became unbonded again.

Four wheeled over everything I could find with the TXT

Ran the bush devil and the weather is still too cold to run the F103. No damage to the 103 but it was close.

Soldered up deans plugs on batteries and Escs. Also did some motor leads on the new 55 turns.

Did the body mount magnet thing on the Ratrod and drove it around indoors. It runs great and is so cute.

Finally did the primary body for the bruiser. The stock body is so good it's for show only.

Here's a current picture

[matman]

Just made a big order with Stella models .

$700. bucks of Stella goodness + postage ..

RM stuff & Green Grasshopper + other goodies .

Will post in the percymons post thread .

When it arrives ....

[mr crispy]

After a trip to Mick Charles models i painted the Kamtec Rough Rider shell blue with black roll bar. Decided to use a sheet of white vinyl to add the white racing stripe which will run the full length on the body and hopefully help protect from gravel rash a bit.

The vinyl will also make nice number backgrounds on the side pods. Ordered an A4 sheet from the bay.

[Daves956]

I got a HPI savage and Traxxas Emaxx basicly given to me to see if they were worth working on. They're both nitro at 2.5 and 3.5 cc with electric start. For multiple reasons neither are worth converting to electric and I finally looked at them as parts. These were both RTR so no bearings and cheap electronics but so far they've donated 2 sets of shocks and 3 servos worth keeping. The only reason I even mentioned this is to kinda let everybody know what the RTR have to offer. Not much as far as these two are concerned. However, I did meet a gentleman that can't get his very vintage scorcher to work....Now that I can fix.

[Daves956]

While I wait for inspiration on a couple hot rod projects I at least got busy on one of the bodies. It's not too bad so it will go with one of the chassis to be named later projects

.

[berman]

Got bored this afternoon waiting for my Mother to come over for a visit,

so decided to do 'Top Speed Runs' with my four Tamiya monsters...

Using the most professional 'industry standard' of speed trap equipment,

consisting of a car gps unit wrapped in an old sock in the bed of the clod and jugg,

and said sock pegged around the rollbar of the bullhead and to the body mounts of the txt-1 here is the result of my findings:

Juggernaut 16.3 km/h

Bullhead 15.6 km/h

Clod Buster 17.2 km/h

TXT-1 14.9 km/h

All are completely bog stock with absolutely no modifications apart from ball bearings, and used the same

20c 7.4v on their stock MSCs.

I realise there are many variables, including wear and tear etc etc but it was a fun waste of 30 mins

Happy to see the old Clod, the grand daddy of 4x4x4, reign triumphant haha

[Percymon]

Not a huge amount this weekend

dabbled a little with the Vajra chassis as a few more little items arrived (waiting on front gearbox outdrives now)

stripped down the cut n shut that arrived Friday -

- the Tamiyas bit will be on ebay tonight, the rest turns out to be a Optima Mid SE with the optional Kyosho lwb frp chassis conversion. No bad thing but was hoping for a swb car, so this may get a fibrelyte chassis yet. Need a load of other parts before that though !

[SteveU30]

Got bored this afternoon waiting for my Mother to come over for a visit,

so decided to do 'Top Speed Runs' with my four Tamiya monsters...

Using the most professional 'industry standard' of speed trap equipment,

consisting of a car gps unit wrapped in an old sock in the bed of the clod and jugg,

and said sock pegged around the rollbar of the bullhead and to the body mounts of the txt-1 here is the result of my findings:

Juggernaut 16.3 km/h

Bullhead 15.6 km/h

Clod Buster 17.2 km/h

TXT-1 14.9 km/h

All are completely bog stock with absolutely no modifications apart from ball bearings, and used the same

20c 7.4v on their stock MSCs.

I realise there are many variables, including wear and tear etc etc but it was a fun waste of 30 mins

Happy to see the old Clod, the grand daddy of 4x4x4, reign triumphant haha

Absolutely love this, both the well spent 30 mins and the pic of them all lined up!

[y2blade]

took some photos in the sunshine this morning

[Gruntfuggly]

Just stripped down my F350 hilift - lots of rust and bent bits - it's had a lot of use without much maintenance though.

[TA-Mark]

I got a HPI savage and Traxxas Emaxx basicly given to me to see if they were worth working on. They're both nitro at 2.5 and 3.5 cc with electric start. For multiple reasons neither are worth converting to electric and I finally looked at them as parts. These were both RTR so no bearings and cheap electronics but so far they've donated 2 sets of shocks and 3 servos worth keeping. The only reason I even mentioned this is to kinda let everybody know what the RTR have to offer. Not much as far as these two are concerned. However, I did meet a gentleman that can't get his very vintage scorcher to work....Now that I can fix.

The HPI Savage should have 25 engine on it. This is 0.25cui or 4.1cc. They are a hard engine to kill if it's been looked after. I retired my 0.25 engine after it's done 75 Ltrs of nitro and still has excellent compression, replaced with an OS30VG dogbone twister. All Savages came with full bearings in the RTR versions.

A Savage 25 to electric conversion is a very simple task now the Flux versions have been released. Motor mounts, stronger spur gear, Mamba Monster ESC/2200Kv motor and battery holders for upto 6S are readily available. Ballistic, near unbreakable truck with 6S Li-Po, crazy fast even with 4S Li-Po. Not to mention, cheap on parts if you stick with the durable plastic suspension.

One thing to check to see if it's one of the very first series is the bevel gears in the diff. If it has the 4 bevel gear diff, this truck is one of the later Savage 25s and is a reliable vehicle worth holding on to if you like big puffy wheels. The 2 bevel gear diff versions eat diffs like a Tamiya TNX.

The RTR electrics on a Savage 25 are Futaba (even though they have HPI branding). The same as a Futaba 2PK or 3PK AM set.

[Daves956]

The HPI Savage should have 25 engine on it. This is 0.25cui or 4.1cc. They are a hard engine to kill if it's been looked after. I retired my 0.25 engine after it's done 75 Ltrs of nitro and still has excellent compression, replaced with an OS30VG dogbone twister. All Savages came with full bearings in the RTR versions.

A Savage 25 to electric conversion is a very simple task now the Flux versions have been released. Motor mounts, stronger spur gear, Mamba Monster ESC/2200Kv motor and battery holders for upto 6S are readily available. Ballistic, near unbreakable truck with 6S Li-Po, crazy fast even with 4S Li-Po. Not to mention, cheap on parts if you stick with the durable plastic suspension.

One thing to check to see if it's one of the very first series is the bevel gears in the diff. If it has the 4 bevel gear diff, this truck is one of the later Savage 25s and is a reliable vehicle worth holding on to if you like big puffy wheels. The 2 bevel gear diff versions eat diffs like a Tamiya TNX.

The RTR electrics on a Savage 25 are Futaba (even though they have HPI branding). The same as a Futaba 2PK or 3PK AM set.

My mistake on the motors, I don't know that much about nitro. The Savage one turned but it had next to no compression and the electric start motor was cooked. The Traxxas motor was siezed. Both recievers and half the servos were DOA. Everything rubber is shot on both of them. Something I didn't mention is the leaves and dirt and rust, both look to have spent at least one winter outside without bodies. The savage tranny locks out the opposite direction and is just a forward and reverse box so not much use for it as an electric. The steering on the savage is definately bushinged but haven't gotten to anything else yet. The savage has potential but the traxxas is just too far gone.

To put the savage back together would be a complete rebuild plus a tranny and transfer.My best guess for just parts to make it a roller is over 300 so I'm not sure that it's worth putting that kind of money into it..

[TA-Mark]

My mistake on the motors, I don't know that much about nitro. The Savage one turned but it had next to no compression and the electric start motor was cooked. The Traxxas motor was siezed. Both recievers and half the servos were DOA. Everything rubber is shot on both of them. Something I didn't mention is the leaves and dirt and rust, both look to have spent at least one winter outside without bodies. The savage tranny locks out the opposite direction and is just a forward and reverse box so not much use for it as an electric. The steering on the savage is definately bushinged but haven't gotten to anything else yet. The savage has potential but the traxxas is just too far gone.

To put the savage back together would be a complete rebuild plus a tranny and transfer.My best guess for just parts to make it a roller is over 300 so I'm not sure that it's worth putting that kind of money into it..

Ouch! You didn't mention the terrible abused condition. Must agree then, parts bin what's good on them. Replace with a new or good secondhand Flux version sounds like it might be the cheaper option to get an electric one.

The steering bellcranks are the only spot that doesn't have bearings. One of the only upgrades I did on mine when I first got it. The other was inline fuel filters. I do prefer electric, but it is good for a change to drive an engine. The way the power comes on and how the vehicle brakes is completely different to electric. I can run electric all day and no one ever really looks. Start a nitro up and you have an instant spectator crowd. I've emptied the local pub onto the footpath before running the Nitro Mustang up the main street of town flatout.

[Klausen]

Finally brought the Optima Mid to life today.

[Daves956]

Ouch! You didn't mention the terrible abused condition. Must agree then, parts bin what's good on them. Replace with a new or good secondhand Flux version sounds like it might be the cheaper option to get an electric one.

The steering bellcranks are the only spot that doesn't have bearings. One of the only upgrades I did on mine when I first got it. The other was inline fuel filters. I do prefer electric, but it is good for a change to drive an engine. The way the power comes on and how the vehicle brakes is completely different to electric. I can run electric all day and no one ever really looks. Start a nitro up and you have an instant spectator crowd. I've emptied the local pub onto the footpath before running the Nitro Mustang up the main street of town flatout.

I've seen a bunch of nitros lately but everybody I know warns me to stay away from them as runners. I live on the continental divide at 1 mile elevation so ever changing weather and thin air make them unstable at best.

[TA-Mark]

I've seen a bunch of nitros lately but everybody I know warns me to stay away from them as runners. I live on the continental divide at 1 mile elevation so ever changing weather and thin air make them unstable at best.

I'm about 1150m (3725ft) above sea level so know what you're saying about changing conditions and thin air. At most it's only a twist on the mixture screw and maybe a change of glow plug temperature to match the daily conditions. Being able to tune the fuel mixture well comes with practice. And they are a lot more upkeep and dirtier than electric. After run care is important (clean filters, purge fuel, clean off oily dirt, after run oil etc), but I see that all as part of spannering on them and enjoy it as much as building them.

[bromvw]

When i lived in Zambia ( central Africa ) we where well above the 3000 ft level . i was only in the early teens but i recall that cars had to be re jetted to cope with the thin air .. Could you do the same with glow engines ?

[TA-Mark]

When i lived in Zambia ( central Africa ) we where well above the 3000 ft level . i was only in the early teens but i recall that cars had to be re jetted to cope with the thin air .. Could you do the same with glow engines ?

Rejetting on a real car is much the same as adjusting the mixture screws on a simple 2-stroke. When there's less air (thinner air), you adjust for less fuel to keep the mixture right. Rejetting a real car's carby (which doesn't have adjustable 'running' mixture screws, only idle mixture) is the same thing. Nitros have both idle and running mixture screws like a 2-stroke snipper engine.