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Today it suddenly struck me i need a RC Bag. So many times did i think «FFS i have nothing to bring 1 RC and the equipment i need to Run it and do small fixes», so finally Today my brilliant brain thought «RC Bag!» as we now are going to my parents home for Easter i might be able to take 1 RC car with me this time, WooT.

Amazon had some amazing ones with perfect departments for Part, bits & tools also, but needed one fast before Easter so i odreted one from a «Local» store (did have extra departments but not as good as those i found on Amazon).

Will post in «The Postman Brought Me» when i get it, so now you all have something to look forward to ;)

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11 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

Weird. 

Did you put the springs on upside down? 

:lol: I reckon that's possible

9 hours ago, Pylon80 said:

Did you leave any air at all when you built them? It is important to leave a bit of air ('aeration damper' ;)) to compensate for the volume of the piston rod as it travels in and out of the damper body. That minute amount of air will mix with the oil which is normal and per design for these shocks.

Yeah, built as per instructions where you raise the piston up (but not all the way up) then seal them. Even drilled and screwed the damper caps like I saw on a thread on here.

7 hours ago, OnTheTrail said:

When the shocks were off the car, did they want to spring back?   If not, then check for a piece of flashing on the side of the piston discs (not sure of the actual part name but the disc like thingy with the holes on the inside of the shock) where you cut it off the parts tree.   I had this happen to a CVA so I had to disassemble it and just cut off the flashing with a knife and then it worked fine.  

The piston disc things aren't off of a parts tree they are separate items with no flashings. Nothing is binding, I'm out of ideas.

On the old 'bench test' (squeeze between thumb and index finger) they feel normal and free-moving. They return to their extended position as you would expect. Same once fitted on the car, if you lift a wheel up it will spring back downwards.

But rest the car on a flat surface and the dampers won't allow the springs to 'lift' the car back to its' neutral position, as per my animation.

Not impressed, will have to rebuild them tonight and see if I've gone wrong somewhere. The whole damper assembly feels very un-Tamiya like and they were a nightmare to build - normally I find damper assembly quite therapeutic and relaxing! This was just stressful triple-checking the (somewhat rubbish) manual to see if I've done a process correctly, because nothing feels right when you're familiar with regular TRF / CVA dampers...

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8 minutes ago, ChrisRx718 said:

:lol: I reckon that's possible

Yeah, built as per instructions where you raise the piston up (but not all the way up) then seal them. Even drilled and screwed the damper caps like I saw on a thread on here.

The piston disc things aren't off of a parts tree they are separate items with no flashings. Nothing is binding, I'm out of ideas.

On the old 'bench test' (squeeze between thumb and index finger) they feel normal and free-moving. They return to their extended position as you would expect. Same once fitted on the car, if you lift a wheel up it will spring back downwards.

But rest the car on a flat surface and the dampers won't allow the springs to 'lift' the car back to its' neutral position, as per my animation.

Not impressed, will have to rebuild them tonight and see if I've gone wrong somewhere. The whole damper assembly feels very un-Tamiya like and they were a nightmare to build - normally I find damper assembly quite therapeutic and relaxing! This was just stressful triple-checking the (somewhat rubbish) manual to see if I've done a process correctly, because nothing feels right when you're familiar with regular TRF / CVA dampers...

I've got the same set I think, unbuilt. I'm unlikely to be any use to you because I know much less about the subject than you do but you've piqued my interest so I might have a crack at assembling them later. I was thinking to put them on my Optima Mid, accepting they'll look a bit out of place. 

If they're OK off the car, it's not something other than the shocks by any chance? Maybe ball joints too tight or something binding because they're a bigger diameter?

Or a bad batch of o-rings? I've had some quite sticky ones although they only really showed up because I want exceptionally soft front shocks on my DT-03. 

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8 hours ago, Frog Jumper said:

brain-storming a new look for the Frog/Black Ranger

Something pschedelic from the 60s?

psychedelic-beach-break-fantasy-mal-bray

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4 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

I've got the YR carbon set too. The silver weave in the CF I'm unsure about aesthetically just looking at it in the box but it might grow on me fitted to the car. Def one good option is to fit all the higher up bits but leave the alu chassis, as I have a hunch that lowering the centre of gravity is more valuable than a small reduction in weight? And I recall that ESC fitment is easier/better. Or, I could just sell on the YR set as new, since I'm not sure it's for me and it was quite expensive, but knowing me I probably won't!

Having just fitted three stock parts for which I have CF alternatives, it looks like I'm headed first down a route of "stock but with some functional hop-ups" where I fit Kyosho steering bridge and turnbuckles and aftermarket CVDs and that's about it. Maybe CF top deck. It wasn't a clear decision I made, rather I got to the parts, couldn't see the clear advantage of the hop-up part in each case, and so thought I'd run the stock parts before seeing what all the fuss is about. 

One of the benefits of the upper and lower CF decks is clearance for the servo horn and more overhead space for your ESC.  I chose to run the Yeah Racing CF MID with a lower polycarbonate tray.  The silver weave actually looks pretty darn good once on the car.  There is no problem going with the factory stock parts.   A member posted he broke one of the shock towers so swapped to CF.  

I decided my MID #4 (MID-Night Concept) will run all Kyosho CF bits again, but with the gold 13.5 BL.  

 

 

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1 hour ago, Willy iine said:

One of the benefits of the upper and lower CF decks is clearance for the servo horn and more overhead space for your ESC.  I chose to run the Yeah Racing CF MID with a lower polycarbonate tray.  The silver weave actually looks pretty darn good once on the car.  There is no problem going with the factory stock parts.   A member posted he broke one of the shock towers so swapped to CF.  

I decided my MID #4 (MID-Night Concept) will run all Kyosho CF bits again, but with the gold 13.5 BL.  

 

 

Ah. Thanks. I got it the wrong way round then. So I'll probably fit the top deck at least and if I struggle with ESC fitment I know I have the option to improve that a little by swapping the lower deck. 

I wonder how much weight is saved where aluminium is swapped for CF. I suspect that other than the chassis it's not much, because the parts are fairly small. I should've put the two chassis plates on some scales for comparison. 

Anyway, loving the feel of build quality of this chassis. It's very pleasing. In a funny way (which is perhaps personal and not reflective of any real science), machined aluminium contributes to that at least as much as CF would. 

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Went to the track today. First time to try the XV-01 on pavement. Wow that thing turns so well

 

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1 hour ago, BuggyDad said:

Ah. Thanks. I got it the wrong way round then. So I'll probably fit the top deck at least and if I struggle with ESC fitment I know I have the option to improve that a little by swapping the lower deck. 

I wonder how much weight is saved where aluminium is swapped for CF. I suspect that other than the chassis it's not much, because the parts are fairly small. I should've put the two chassis plates on some scales for comparison. 

Anyway, loving the feel of build quality of this chassis. It's very pleasing. In a funny way (which is perhaps personal and not reflective of any real science), machined aluminium contributes to that at least as much as CF would. 

Not sure how much weight is saved with the CF if any.. I am going for the cool factor for the most part especially since I do not actually race these cars on a track.  It's like those exotic cars old people have who enjoy the ownership, GT driving, and display more so than driving the cars to its limits..

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7 hours ago, ChrisRx718 said:

Not impressed, will have to rebuild them tonight and see if I've gone wrong somewhere. The whole damper assembly feels very un-Tamiya like and they were a nightmare to build - normally I find damper assembly quite therapeutic and relaxing! This was just stressful triple-checking the (somewhat rubbish) manual to see if I've done a process correctly, because nothing feels right when you're familiar with regular TRF / CVA dampers...

I didn’t enjoy the build much either. Fiddly and, as you said, the instructions are awful. Especially compared to other Tamiya bits. 

Mine didn’t rebound any without the spring. I searched the forum and YouTube but couldn’t find if this was normal with this type of damper but came up blank. 

Mine are on a 2wd but I found I had put a heavier oil in than I would normally. I’ve got 900 on the back and stiffer springs than came with the shocks but they bounce back just fine. Do yours squeak any. Apparently they are supposed to. 

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Worked on the Tomahawk body and driver some more..  Driver still needs a little cleaning up to do, but almost finished.  I will start the chassis maybe tomorrow.. 

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2 hours ago, Nick-W said:

I didn’t enjoy the build much either. Fiddly and, as you said, the instructions are awful. Especially compared to other Tamiya bits. 

Mine didn’t rebound any without the spring. I searched the forum and YouTube but couldn’t find if this was normal with this type of damper but came up blank. 

Mine are on a 2wd but I found I had put a heavier oil in than I would normally. I’ve got 900 on the back and stiffer springs than came with the shocks but they bounce back just fine. Do yours squeak any. Apparently they are supposed to. 

No squeaking as such. The pistons did squeak against the seals before I put oil in. The manual says to move them up and down until they move 'freely'. They never felt that free. I disassembled and greased the rods but it didn't seem to change much.

Going to try and bleed all the air out maybe. Someone linked to a Team Associated instructional video on aeration dampers where they moved the piston halfway up until oil bled from the cap screw. Tamiya never implies this, but maybe it'll work.

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32 minutes ago, ChrisRx718 said:

Going to try and bleed all the air out maybe. Someone linked to a Team Associated instructional video on aeration dampers where they moved the piston halfway up until oil bled from the cap screw. Tamiya never implies this, but maybe it'll work.

That seems logical. One of the things I found said the air gap is supposed to accommodate the piston shaft as it moves in. 
It’s really weird that the instructions make no mention of a whole operational part of the damper. Not the drilling, bleeding or anything 🤷‍♂️

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Went digging in the loft for some real car parts and came across this and a load hop up parts I bought years ago and forgot about. It originally started life as a Dirt Thrasher and then when I got it I converted it to a Top Force tribute with a Fibre-Lyte chasis and other bits & bobs. The thing is pretty filthy with dust and grime from the loft but I think it's time I rebuilt it and put some more fancy bling on it. Can't remember what's inside the diffs etc but I think I have the necessary parts to build something a bit special. I also found a couple of brand new spare bodies so if anyone has any suggestions for what should do/upgrade it etc, they would be welcome. 

 

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High End workmanship as Always @Willy iine .

Today i finished The interior in my Tamiya 1/24 Subaru Impreza model.

This was so hard for me, not only the Tiny model/interior painting but also all Decals as small as the tip off my fingertips. Not as high standard as many on the forum, but best work i ever did so far. Glued the Cage and next will be Decals on Body (after i bought mixture that melt the decals into the models it started to look really good)

Edit: I thought about painting the shoe laces but i then quickly stopped myself doing that. Most of the interior no one will ever see again ..

 

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Installed metal drive shaft axles on my crawler.

ddyEnoB.jpg

Changed for my FF03 speed run vehicle the CVD axles, as previous where really bend. The car wasn't running a few weeks until I got time for this.

It was kind of a mix and match thing, two CVD axels from Xray and two CVD cups from LRP with missing parts. :rolleyes:

ea93Hzt.jpg

 

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Today I became a Canadian citizen and run the Manta Ray

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Installed esc and receiver on tt-02b. It is actually more fun with brushed+ lipo combo.

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I just finished up getting a TT-01E sorted out, and very slowly re-building a CC01 with ball bearings and fixing the diff.

I also took a very well modified Rising Fighter out for a spin, somehow despite Tamiyas best efforts and the previous owners modifications it still drives like a Grasshopper, albeit a more stable Grasshopper. Fun if overlooked kit that one is that deserved a nicer shell.

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I drove a Lunchbox for the first time today

 It's now my favorite runner, I love it, it was surprisingly stable on a hard surface, I taped a bit of cardboard on the roof but it never rolled.  I thought it would be more tippy like my hornet.   

It made me smile a lot, especially when the front squats down in reverse, and on grass the steering became non-existent.   

Here's pic of it, I'll try and take some running pics next time, I have a spare 'runner' body for it so it will be a gold color in those pics;

 

lunchbox_black_edition (10).JPG

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On 3/28/2023 at 4:51 AM, Nicadraus said:

I'm amazed how quick you work on your projects @Willy iine.

Do you have some sort of tiny elves who help you out with the builds overnight including the cutting and painting of bodies? :lol:

Nice new addition to your nostalgic fleet Calvin! B)

 

Rumplestilskin without evil intentions 

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6 hours ago, Ferruz said:

Today I became a Canadian citizen and run the Manta Ray

Best citizenship ceremony ever! 
Congratulations! 

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45 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

Rumplestilskin without evil intentions 

He must've done it during St Patrick's day. :lol:

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7 hours ago, Ferruz said:

Today I became a Canadian citizen and run the Manta Ray

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Congrats on the new citizenship. :)

I'm waiting for my Coruscant citizenship. Apparently, the council is taking too long tp approve it. I'm assuming Palpatine is behind the delays. :lol:

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On 3/21/2023 at 8:48 AM, Elbowloh said:

Just discovered that RCmart has an eBay store with free delivery to the UK.

Ordered the TT02 Type S steering set to see how good the service is, costs just shy of £35, where the best price I can find in the UK is £58.

 

Edit: Just had an update to say it's been posted with a delivery estimate of 4th to 24th April :unsure:

Well, it arrived today, so only 8 days!

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