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Does the club need more member blogs...  

361 members have voted

  1. 1. Should we reintroduce this feature?

    • Yes - for anyone that wants one
      131
    • Yes - but only for a few that do 'interesting' stuff regularly
      69
    • No - the forum is enough
      70
  2. 2. If we do bring it back would you want one?

    • Yes
      126
    • No
      144
  3. 3. If you had one how often would you update it

    • Several times a day
      270

This poll is closed to new votes


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Posted

I forgot to mention the special features of the 10L. There are no mounting holes for the battery or servo and everything has to be servo taped in place, The front wheels are E clipped on. The rears are a square 4 bolt pattern and can't be changed. A Tamiya wrench can be laid flat and used to keep the wheels off the ground or a pencil will do. My favorite is the wheelbase, 260 x 235. If it were a little shorter or wider I could mount the body sideways to improve it's looks. The only bit of the suspension with any travel has to all come off to get a motor in it. That's as if the lock collar front steering wasn't enough to prove this to be the racer it was intended to be. :o

But it still looks fantastic , old school :D ... All of this makes it what it is today , OLD!! :o Like US :P:lol:

Posted

But it still looks fantastic , old school :D ... All of this makes it what it is today , OLD!! :o Like US :P:lol:

I've had cars that look good at a distance of a few feet but I guess that this one could look good from the distance your at from it......thousands of miles. :D

I understand the age thing, with the way it looks and the way I see it's a perfect match. :o

  • Like 1
Posted

I've had cars that look good at a distance of a few feet but I guess that this one could look good from the distance your at from it......thousands of miles. :D

I understand the age thing, with the way it looks and the way I see it's a perfect match. :o

Its a great example Dave - yes the wheelbase is short but with the right racing body with the big front and rear overhanges the relative width to length issue will be resolved. Keeping it pointed the right way with that short wheelbase may be a different matter, BIG rear wing required :D

Posted

Strictly speaking this was last night, but I needed sleep by the time I finished :lol:

stripped the first of my RC10 Team Cars (the rolling chassis)

decalled the SWB Optima Mid project (runner)..

image_zps2b665e7c.jpg

and fitted the body and wing on the LWB project (probable shelfer)..

image_zps78d9dcb7.jpg

Posted

Its a great example Dave - yes the wheelbase is short but with the right racing body with the big front and rear overhanges the relative width to length issue will be resolved. Keeping it pointed the right way with that short wheelbase may be a different matter, BIG rear wing required :D

The body is another plus. I have the new Protoform body for it from Tower. It's the one and only 235mm body I could find so like it or not isn't an option if I want a body for it.

Posted

Very early in the morning today I installed electronics into my Lancia racer:

zqvc.jpg

With the short receiver antenna, I improvised and installed an antenna mount on the plastic bar where another servo would be screwed in on the original MSC-equipped ORV chassis:

dexl.jpg

And so, after 'borrowing' a motor from my Striker, I was able to give the Lancia some tests inside the house:

yjvh.jpg

Steering was initially poor with the vintage setup using a separate servo saver, but adjusting the links and rod positions changed that. It is quite a difference still between the original Lancia and re-released ORVs, but I am sure it can be rectified under actual running.

Now, lights and its own motor...

  • Like 1
Posted

I forgot to mention the special features of the 10L. There are no mounting holes for the battery or servo and everything has to be servo taped in place, The front wheels are E clipped on. The rears are a square 4 bolt pattern and can't be changed. A Tamiya wrench can be laid flat and used to keep the wheels off the ground or a pencil will do. My favorite is the wheelbase, 260 x 235. If it were a little shorter or wider I could mount the body sideways to improve it's looks. The only bit of the suspension with any travel has to all come off to get a motor in it. That's as if the lock collar front steering wasn't enough to prove this to be the racer it was intended to be. :o

Actually I think the original Optima had some sort of weird zip tie/servo tape combo instead of servo mounts as well. I remember wondering if adhesive used to be better, or if racers were just much more tolerant of their cars ejecting servos mid race.

Posted

Bought some TS and PS paint in Modelzone, then shot a few pics of projects finished this week..

TL-01 based CLK-DTM 2002

smerk5_zpsbf14d729.jpg

and to wind Shaun up, another pic of the Opti Mid SWB :P :P

swbfrontquarter_zps348308b2.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Took the basher FTX Carnage/ Wild Dagger body down to the park . Running a 9t brushless on 2 s lipo it was excellent fun until we lost a wheel nut . The hex is stripped completely in the wheel . Not worried as we have loads of suitable spairs . These really are good cheap fun .

Posted

Wow Grastens, that Lancia is looking awesome. What light setup are you going for? Is the light pod going to illuminate?

Thank you! I do intend to light up all the fronts - the two headlights and the four rally spotlights - as well as the rear brake lights.

Taking inspiration from TC member zakspeed (link at http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=76105&sid=1604), I am going for a 3Racing light setup, but intend to do away with the turn signals since I figure racers never used them...

Today I was going to drill out the spotlights for the 5mm bulbs, but ended up just replacing the gears, regreasing the friction pads, and cleaning the ball bearings on my F103-based Toyota GT-One.

Posted

Took the basher FTX Carnage/ Wild Dagger body down to the park . Running a 9t brushless on 2 s lipo it was excellent fun until we lost a wheel nut . The hex is stripped completely in the wheel . Not worried as we have loads of suitable spairs . These really are good cheap fun .

EDIT - Sorted . Found some Traxxas Slash wheels with BFGoodrigh Mud Terrains in the spairs stash . Perfect fit and they even look better . We'll test them out for grip .

Edit . These proved to be way better than expected . Being slightly smaller and narrower than the originals I wasn't expecting much from them . However speed was increased , it seemed to turn better and was less prone to wheelie .Motor temp was ok . Overall a zero cost RESULT .

Posted

RALLY TIME:

sfuk.jpg

36i5.jpg

A set of lights came in the post today, and so I had an entire afternoon to work. It turned out surprisingly well for my first such project, even if some of the light buckets cracked. The car is now essentially completed, though I do plan to replace the original hex-drive half-shafts with proper universal joints and dog-bone ends. Some waterproofing of the light unit will also be in order...

But here and now, this has been the most rewarding project of my short career. I now have the biggest flashlight in the neighbourhood :P

P.S.: Special thanks to TC member zakspeed, who inadvertently inspired me to configure the lights for this vehicle.

  • Like 3
Posted

Trying to start a regular monthly 'vintage' Tamiya meeting here in Bangkok, so had a meeting with a couple of guys to discuss some ideas.

Unfortunately it rained today at the track so it was very much a show day!

Posted

It does indeed! Is this a runner or shelfer?

The chassis doesn't look to have ever been run before so the lap around the living room it's already done is all it'll be run. I'll hang it on the wall for a bit and then sell or trade it off. It was kinda forced on me to see if I could finish it off. The wheels for it would have been a task if I didn't just happen to have a set. It still needs the body posts but I'm sure I have them somewhere

Posted

Bombed around the parking lot across the street with the WR8. Now that the tires are more worn, it's easier to get the rear end to break loose and it grip-rolls a lot less, which means more powerslide and drifting fun.

Posted

I took this picture to kind of freeze the moment in time. I've got some body mounts to do and they are all for AEs so I gathered them all together to get a list together of what I needed.

This is all of that brand that I have right now, there used to be quite a few more repeats but I decided to keep only the ones I wanted.

DSCN0310.jpg

Posted

Two runs - one in the morning, another at night:

nhfx.jpg

v8u1.jpg

It was all incredible fun, being cool to see the lights on the car flickering in the morning and then seeing them shine brilliantly at night...

Posted

I made some progress on this really slow going project. There's a lot that all has to fit together but you can kinda see the direction I'm going.DSCN0311.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

swapped the plastic diff gear and the metal bevel gears in Baja Brat - was going to sell this but think I'll keep it a while longer as its great fun :D

  • Like 1
Posted

front end strut brace and uprated shocks on the top force , tried it and even with the cva,s as soft as they could go with oil as thin as water they were still far too hard and slow, much softer now and superfast return from compression , front realy digs in on corners now , the strut brace stops the twist in the towers, shocks and strut brace fitted on ball studs, changed the rears to match , wanted to keep in the black theme so these don,t look too far away from the box set

shockmodtopforce002_zps20960dea.jpg

shockmodtopforce005_zpsd3bb30a3.jpg

shockmodtopforce001_zps7da299f9.jpg

shockmodtopforce003_zpsfb69d2d4.jpg

  • Like 1
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