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Does the club need more member blogs...  

361 members have voted

  1. 1. Should we reintroduce this feature?

    • Yes - for anyone that wants one
      131
    • Yes - but only for a few that do 'interesting' stuff regularly
      69
    • No - the forum is enough
      70
  2. 2. If we do bring it back would you want one?

    • Yes
      126
    • No
      144
  3. 3. If you had one how often would you update it

    • Several times a day
      270

This poll is closed to new votes


Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, Re-Bugged said:

My itchy trigger finger won’t last that long, I had to buy a couple servos & receivers the other day so satisfying withdrawal symptoms 😂

Haha same.. but greater power(?) wont allow it.. and was thinking christmas would be a good excuse…

  • Like 1
Posted

I was invited to a small indoor track.  Its all artificial turf with assorted jumps.  Did I say small?  Yeah, small.  Guys mostly race Mini-Z buggies but there is also a race for 1/16 scale (ish) cars where the fastest guys use Losi Mini-B's. 

I took a couple of TamTech Gear cars and quickly realized that: A) I can't drive worth a darn  B) I can't see worth a darn either.. possibly leading to observation "A"  and.. C) 5200kv brushless and 2S lipo with the stock slow and oddly shaped TamTech steering servo weren't helping my case one bit on a small and tight indoor course.

I had loads of fun however.  My friends tried to drive my TamTech cars and all agreed that it was a miracle that I could manage to get around the track at all with them. I normally use them in wide-open parking lots.  I got behind the wheel of one of the Losi Mini-B's and came in 2nd for one race, and won another one.  

And yes I'm gonna buy a Losi Mini-B pro now (don't mention it to the wifey yet:rolleyes:).

But before I do that, I wanted to make some adjustments and improvements to the TamTech cars and give them a second chance at redemption.  I swapped out the steering servo.  The stock servo TSU-02 is rated at 0.14sec  60 degrees(6v) 3.3 kg-cm.  Replaced it with a Corona DS-319MG servo rated at 0.06sec 60 degrees(6V) 4kg. Next I adjusted the esc settings for quicker throttle response (less neutral band).  I left one car with medium punch setting, and another with soft punch setting.  Also went with thicker damper oil and medium springs in the front on both.  I did a little test run on a small makeshift track and definitely can tell the difference.  Can't wait to get back out there and give it another go!

  • Like 4
Posted

I finally sat down and got the M-03 (or Mini Cooper Racing to be more exact) up and running again. Tried it with the body on indoors, but ran it naked outdoors (not me, the chassis!). Small size, good cornering, a bit hard to get the power into the ground.

  • Like 4
Posted
1 hour ago, JimBear said:

I finally sat down and got the M-03 (or Mini Cooper Racing to be more exact) up and running again. Tried it with the body on indoors, but ran it naked outdoors (not me, the chassis!). Small size, good cornering, a bit hard to get the power into the ground.

Sounds great.   I put weights (1:1 tire balance weights) on my FWD to keep the nose down.   The only way to get immediate real traction is to get a 4WD m-chassis, I suppose.  

 

Speaking of which, since my XM1 Competition took the upper hand over my Sabre 4WD m-chassis the other day, I'm going to try different setups on the Sabre to narrow the gap.  I think the first thing to make it a fair playing field is to rid the NiMH on the Sabre and run mini 2S as I do on the XM1/XM1S/M-Four.   That alone is a HUGE weight savings.  From there I'm going to change the diff setting.. the XM1 runs a soft 5000 weight where as my Sabre runs considerably stiffer oil (I don't remember what's in there) as I had better traction in the past running on rubber flooring.

Should be a fun day.  :D 

  • Like 4
Posted

Finished first version of M-05 extension :) It would've worked without the top braces, but it would lost its charm.

Now, I can start with my build

382639911_272990552301540_910898003872242501_n.jpg

  • Like 7
Posted

I really really enjoy painting and decalling bodies. Fact is. Im awful at it, even after years. Its just not my strong point. As a result I decided to crack on with the bodyshells Ive got outstanding. Very simple single colour shells for an Egress Black and my new BBX that Ive not built yet.......

BBX Body Panels. Never done a body like this before. Ive got complete box art. PS4 Bodywork and PS1 for the roof. Its far from perfect, but I cant wait to get it mounted. 
 

OQgGWPr.jpeg

The Egress Black bits are ready. Simple black. Seems fine so far

tzpDeGv.jpeg

  • Like 13
Posted

Beat the Porsche subject to death by posting about it again. But I think I found my new favorite photo scene. A glowing white backdrop that  paints the body with wonderful reflections. Oh and a white set of wheels.

YK3bYaX.jpg

3rsRpYP.jpg

  • Like 24
Posted
1 hour ago, technics said:

Beat the Porsche subject to death by posting about it again. But I think I found my new favorite photo scene. A glowing white backdrop that  paints the body with wonderful reflections. Oh and a white set of wheels.

YK3bYaX.jpg

3rsRpYP.jpg

What did you paint the wheels with? Will I need Primer? Can I use Tamiya PS paint?

Posted

@Kpowell911 I prime everything before painting except lexan 🤠 using Tamiya primer. I used Tamiya TS paints for the wheels. I guess it depends what you’re after and what finish? Nothing wrong with using PS paint 👍🏻

  • Like 1
Posted

So this morning/afternoon I spent 4-5 hours trial & error setup on my Sabre 4WD m-chassis and had a good time.  While doing the set ups I was reminded again that I am out of the thinner clamp-type aluminum hex hubs so did some research and found that Tamiya makes 3mm, 4mm versions.   I placed order for various hubs and spacers.  B)  This should keep my parts bin stocked for some time.

  • Like 4
Posted

New body Ultima Pro and wing trimmed and sanded, wing wire and wing buttons sorted too. 

Gonna go with pearl white instead of plain white on this one to stick with box art but give it a bit of extra bling.

Such nice lines on these cars IMO. 

This car is getting ready to be racing vintage class again. Haven't had it on a track since early 90s. Will be fun. 

20230930_104605.jpg

  • Like 15
Posted

Some Sand-Hopper progress;

I primed the spare Blitzer Beetle nosecone with oxide red primer and have decided to use it instead of the Scorcher nosecone, the Blitzer nosecone almost seems made for a Grasshopper, it aligns very well.

I made a rudimentary rear mount out of an old wing that I got from aliexpress, the wing is made of a very strong flexible plastic, underneath I have bolted Lunchbox body mounts.  I still need to clean it up and paint it.  The alignment can be adjusted with washers.  This will do until I get 3d printed version 

Thanks again to Ziddan 

DSCF6375.JPG

DSCF6374.JPG

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  • Like 12
Posted

I finished (finally) my GF01 crawler/trail Jeep.

At the moment there's very little time to get outside and drive, so wanted something that can run indoors. This is perfect; a GF01 trail truck. The body is a 1:12 (ish) Taiyo Renegade with about a 185 mm wheelbase. The wheelbase is extended by flipping the rear arms. Works just fine. 

In terms of upgrades just CVA shocks, bearings and 20T steel pinion.

The stock front arms were giving postive camber so I made new arms using ball joints and 3mm studding to make it adjustable. 

It's running a torque tuned motor which may be too fast, but its nice to have some wheelspin as this is more a rock bouncer than crawler. If it keeps tipping over or its uncontrollable I may drop down to a 35T motor.

I am using a Tble04s which leaves the possibility of li ion batteries open, which would lower the COG considerably. 

Xgfq1SE.jpg

I've made a few changes from stock. The main issue was getting the body low enough with the interior as I wanted something more scale than a wild willy 2 type thing. I added spacers to the servo to drop it down. This is surprisingly sturdy, although I may make a 3D printed mount instead.

CqbRvEy.jpg

I also got rid of the battery cover and then made a shelf for the electronics at the rear. The electronics now sit under the rear bed. The car interior goes firmly over the battery, locking it into place. 

tlwKSfx.jpg

Wheels are bead locked 1.9" from eBay, with a 96 mm diameter tire. This gives lots of clearance. 

ZGiYABy.jpg

 

 

It's a pretty decent performer. Yes, it won't match a proper crawler and it will wheelie, but it's a blast around the house and can get over much more than you'd think. Can't wait to try it on some rocks. It tackles pillows and bundles of clothes well so far. It's also super quiet which is great for night time driving with a sleeping toddler.

 

  • Like 12
Posted

For me, only exciting thing I've done today RC wise was to order my 60th minty green MID.  :D   I'm just going to paint it the best I can to the box art color and build right out of the box, no additional hopups.  

Besides that I started the day driving my 1:1 Golf-R for my weekend morning relaxing drive, organized my XM1 parts box with all the misc hopups and spare parts I got recently, and finished replacing the sump pump outlet piping on the house.   

  • Like 2
Posted
15 hours ago, Pizza Frog said:

 

DSCF6374.JPG

 

That looks too good for a Grasshopper chassis, take care when you run it. When I ran a lexan bug shell on my Hornet (which granted, had a bigger motor) it liked to traction roll alot.

On my end I bought this to the LHS, 20-30 years apart, can you spot the differences?

ktt8YA8.jpeg

  • Like 4
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