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1 hour ago, nel33 said:

what sort of effort or info needed goes into making a 3d printed part? im using a TT02 friction shock spacer for a halfway stand in for a servo saver on an old Tyco Taiyo turbo outlaw. so far i havent seen many parts for it understandably... is there any other similar part in a kit i can order/design that  can be strong enough to serve as a C shaped servo saver?

I've done servo savers for the TT02 on my home printer successfully. They generally work pretty well, tighter than a stock tt02 saver but they are a bit more sacrificial than the stock one with short, sharp shock loadings (crashing into a curb at 25mph, they snap).

I dunno how anyone does the shapeways thing without a home printer as well, must be expensive, as there is a lot of back and forth tweaking with the initial prototyping. My servo saver would have run me about £300 instead of 30p if i'd done it that way. :wacko:

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9 minutes ago, Crucial said:

I've done servo savers for the TT02 on my home printer successfully. They generally work pretty well, tighter than a stock tt02 saver but they are a bit more sacrificial than the stock one with short, sharp shock loadings (crashing into a curb at 25mph, they snap).

I dunno how anyone does the shapeways thing without a home printer as well, must be expensive, as there is a lot of back and forth tweaking with the initial prototyping. My servo saver would have run me about £300 instead of 30p if i'd done it that way. :wacko:

Yeah I have parts which have taken a few iterations. But most recently I printed some suspension arms which although fairly large and therefore not cheap, were the kind of thing you could get right enough first time. I have also asked a friend to print an initial prototype for size before. 

Way I see it, 3D printing is an expensive way to buy a part, but an inexpensive way for an individual to commission the manufacture of a part they've designed.

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I fitted a one way diff to my Mini-Z and during the process spent around half an hour looking for this little piece that pinged off and shot across the room.

Tic tac for scale. 

 

IMG_3076.jpeg

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@Beena I've lost that part too.. good find.    I must have not pushed it down far enough after changing the widths and lost it while driving.  I bought a couple of spares.  :D    It's bad enough my vision is deteriorating, these Mini-Z parts are tiny!   I need to use my magnifying lens LED lamp while working on these cars..  even so sometimes hard to see black on black.

 

For me, going to work not the JJ WC Ultima body today.  I need to go waste about 5 hours of my life going to the office for my money making gig, so probably wont get a chance to paint today.  These face to face meetings are honestly completely unnecessary.. 

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8 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

@Beena I've lost that part too.. good find.    I must have not pushed it down far enough after changing the widths and lost it while driving.  I bought a couple of spares.  :D    It's bad enough my vision is deteriorating, these Mini-Z parts are tiny!   I need to use my magnifying lens LED lamp while working on these cars..  even so sometimes hard to see black on black.

 

For me, going to work not the JJ WC Ultima body today.  I need to go waste about 5 hours of my life going to the office for my money making gig, so probably wont get a chance to paint today.  These face to face meetings are honestly completely unnecessary.. 

It's a real challenge working on them coming from 1/10 scale isn't it.  I had my wife and dog both looking for it for me 🤣 Still can't believe I found it.  I also have to use my magnifying lens LED lamp when working on them.  I guess the upside is that they don't take up much room.

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Just now, Beena said:

It's a real challenge working on them coming from 1/10 scale isn't it.  I had my wife and dog both looking for it for me 🤣 Still can't believe I found it.  I also have to use my magnifying lens LED lamp when working on them.  I guess the upside is that they don't take up much room.

Yeah, it's definitely a trade off with the size.  But they look so good and drives so well for its size, I am not complaining either.  :D 

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Just now, Willy iine said:

Yeah, it's definitely a trade off with the size.  But they look so good and drives so well for its size, I am not complaining either.  :D 

I saw them described as RC Beenie Babies by someone and I am inclined to agree.....there are so many I want 🤣

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13 minutes ago, Beena said:

I saw them described as RC Beenie Babies by someone and I am inclined to agree.....there are so many I want 🤣

Yeah, I completely agree.  Once you start there is just no stopping..  :lol:  

I hope someday Kyosho does a Mini-Z version of their Fantom.  I bet Fantom fans would grab it, as much as Optima and Inferno fans grabbing the Mini-Z's.  :D 

 

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almost finished my restoration of my original 58079 Egress.

After a lot of second guessing and nerves I cut out the original body and decals. I also decided to switch out the Futuba radio set for a P-160F CPR and servo. The final decider being that I refitted the Futuba set and no matter how hard I tried I couldn't get the wiring to look nice. Obviously if it were a new kit I would've trimmed the wires and braided them, but I wasn't going to do that with vintage stuff. Plus, I decided if it was going to be MY Egress, I'd build it how I would have if I'd been able to when it came out.

The only other modification I have made are the titanium turnbuckles. I could never understand why Tamiya would fit titanium screws to this - their flagship buggy - and then fit crappy steel threaded rod that scratches as soon as you adjust them. 

I am officially tickled several shades over cerise about how this has turned out :wub:

IMG_2580 IMG_2581

I might still smoke the windows, haven't decided yet, and paint in the tyre lettering, but otherwise it's done! :wub::wub::wub:

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2 hours ago, jonboy1 said:

IMG_2580  

I might still smoke the windows, haven't decided yet, and paint in the tyre lettering, but otherwise it's done! :wub::wub::wub:

Very nice my man 👍🏻

It is yours to do with as you wish but I kinda like the windows clear being able to see the internal vintage heart of the beast adding to the character, but that’s just me 😉

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42 minutes ago, Re-Bugged said:

Very nice my man 👍🏻

It is yours to do with as you wish but I kinda like the windows clear being able to see the internal vintage heart of the beast adding to the character, but that’s just me 😉

Thank you my friend! :) 

Yeah, I'm kinda leaning toward your thinking. If I could get it to be a very light tint so you could still see inside clearly but look darker when viewed from a distance (does that make sense?) then that would be ideal. I definitely won't be fitting the window stickers though.

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So I cut the body and made a hole for the front body post for my JJ WC Ultima.. only to find it was 5mm too far aft.  :wacko:  not to mention the openings for the front tower is off by that much as well.  The kit comes with a cutting template so I used that, only to be confused as to what it was trying to say how to align to the body,   They even included a revision instruction for the front hole.. which only made sense retrospectively.. because I am dumb and was originally skinny then fat then normal, but still dumb.  

I wish they didn't include the template because then I could've eyeballed the post location using hope.. :ph34r:   and for me EWH technologies (eyeballed with hope) has always sort if worked.. :wacko: :lol:

Photos on Instagram Stories if you want to make fun of my mistake.  :D

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10 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

To design a part you need to model it in one of various software packages, some of which are free. I use Fusion360 which is free but takes a little time to get going on. I think there are much quicker options out there. You need something that'll export in a suitable file type (.stl, or there may be others). Then it's "how long's a piece of string" from minutes to days depending on part complexity. Individual parts of servo savers I've seen look generally at the easy end but I can't visualise yours. 

Or if you're lucky someone might've published the part you want for free or a donation on eg thingiverse. 

To print with a commercial printer you generally need a minimum order quantity (£40 before VAT and delivery with the one I've used), so you need to be doing a few things. But all you do is upload the .stl file and select a few options (material, finishes). If you wanted to piggyback on someone else's order to avoid the minimum order quantity that might work. Eg I could add your part to my order and send it on to you at cost, if I was placing one, but I'm not imminently.

Or do you know anyone with a home printer? Only home printed parts I've had have been weak in the dimensions of RC parts but YMMV.

Then there's Shapeways, a commercial printer which also hosts a catalogue of designs by third parties, so you just order a part from a Shapeways store. I don't think there's a min order quantity but it's relatively expensive. But here you're also paying towards someone's work in designing the part, maybe multiple iterations and reprints.

thank you for the reply, getting that setup is a bit daunting at this point. im not that great with design software so making a file would be a challenge. i dont know anyone with a printer, though i havent really asked.  there is one person who might have a special printer but im not sure if its a 3d printer or something else of that sort

i will check on shapeways and see if there is something that could work but i hope someone by chance might have made a part like that

 

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9 hours ago, Crucial said:

I've done servo savers for the TT02 on my home printer successfully. They generally work pretty well, tighter than a stock tt02 saver but they are a bit more sacrificial than the stock one with short, sharp shock loadings (crashing into a curb at 25mph, they snap).

I dunno how anyone does the shapeways thing without a home printer as well, must be expensive, as there is a lot of back and forth tweaking with the initial prototyping. My servo saver would have run me about £300 instead of 30p if i'd done it that way. :wacko:

i will 2x check the servo saver on my tt02  though i dont have a spare one if i remember correctly. if the dimentsions are close or same i might consider it. the Taiyo servo saver is 3 parts, 2 parts sandwhich the c ring.

ServoSaver lightExtrLttrs CM, shapeways. not sure of the dimension though

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1 hour ago, nel33 said:

i will 2x check the servo saver on my tt02  though i dont have a spare one if i remember correctly. if the dimentsions are close or same i might consider it. the Taiyo servo saver is 3 parts, 2 parts sandwhich the c ring.

ServoSaver lightExtrLttrs CM, shapeways. not sure of the dimension though

If the servo saver isn't some proprietary part and a fairly standard one would do, it isn't something I'd consider 3d printing for. I'd just buy something suitable. 

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I think I may have done something wrong!!! I posted a new thread in  Tamiyaclub news thread about the loss of Fusion Hobbies and I’ve now got a warning triangle by the post. It doesn’t show as a post!!!

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8 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

I think I may have done something wrong!!! I posted a new thread in  Tamiyaclub news thread about the loss of Fusion Hobbies and I’ve now got a warning triangle by the post. It doesn’t show as a post!!!

It’s probably just because sometimes when you create new threads here a miss has to validate them before they are openly published and viewable by someone other than the OP.

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It's been a long month of not doing anything RC (apart from ordering stuff online which I don't need)

So it was nice to finally get some time in. I have a huge backlog of bodyshells, so being as it was Halloween yesterday I set about cutting up 7 bodies in my kitchen :lol:

After the massacre there was quite a pile of plastic:

Cuttings.jpg.a18444c0200f7ccd029267abf8a02caa.jpg

Please excuse our hideous lino flooring.

I was left with this pyramid of stuff to paint. Can anyone identify all 7 vehicles? Not all of them are Tamiya (sorry):

Bodies.jpg.42fde216954971951efac20fd15f5218.jpg

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For me, after wasting 5 hours at the office for my money making gig, I fixed (?) the front body mount on my JJ WC Ultima.  
 

How I fixed it.. I won’t tell if you won’t..approach.  :ph34r:   Photos on my Instagram Stories and how I did it if interested.. It looks factory finish until something looks weird.  :lol: #pretendRCshop 

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After those beach-blast days with the Hornet in early September, I remember @mtbkym01 wondering -rightly so- whether the buggy was going to get some well deserved TLC.

I can now confess I've been guilty of leaving it unattended, dirty and caked in sand for well over a month, while the new entry Mad Van was getting my undivided attention :ph34r:

There's actually a reason for that: I was waiting for a new gearbox case, that's it. I would never forget about The Hornet :lol:

The part tree came in the mail last week, and I started the stripdown and cleaning in the evening...

20231022-202545.jpg

...to then keep going in the morning with better lighting. 20231023-111344.jpg

The old gearbox case provided outstanding service for a few years, but by now it was just shot! The bottom was ground down to less than half its original thickness 😅, maybe you can see a bit by the photo. Still not too bad, if I think of all the punishment it took 20231023-122655.jpg

In general, the car was in better shape than I expected. Even the gears + pinion were alright, just dry as bones and in much need of grease. Easily sorted! 

What was really unpresentable: the bearings. Caked in gunk and dirt almost to the point of no return. I thought I would end up replacing them, but a massive amount of WD40 did the job eventually. I soaked them overnight but changed the WD40 four or five times. This photo is of the third Jacuzzi bearing bath, and still, look at that color 😖 20231022-202556.jpg

All done now, on to the next adventure it goes, and with a well deserved new gearbox case. 

20231023-135501.jpg

To finalize the pampering, I did some quick tire lettering and slapped on the fæncy shell. Took a few pics for the occasion. 20231029-192135.jpg

20231029-170225.jpg

20231029-192252.jpg

 I don't know if I'll fully revert it to shelf queen with all the other bits though... the infamous beater shell could be back on much sooner than expected 😜

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That Hornet @Ferruz must be close to the “Most Famous” on TC. Great to see it all dressed up nice again. Great job mate

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I almost finished my latest build, it's a WPL D12 on top of a Tamiya QD. The chassis is brushless, widened (to avoid tip over) and has a full hobby grade conversion. It's essentially a smaller lunchbox but with a solid front axle and much lighter, using AA batteries. By swapping the 540 with a tiny 2030 motor it's got much less unsprung weight, which helps a little, although it's still a bouncy fun drive rather than anything serious.

I decided to put a WPL D12 on it. Although the D12 is 1/10 it fits in with the rest of my 1/12 collection really well, as these trucks are so small in real life.

The wheelbases lined up perfectly. The main thing I had to do was bolt the two halves together and then fabricate a front mount to connect the body to the chassis. I also had to drill two holes in the bed to allow the shocks to pass through. I'll take more pictures this evening.

I think I'll skip any livery, but I may add a scale toolbox, fire extinguisher and spare tire, so it looks like a utility or maintenance truck.

qf8DWb5_d.webp?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&

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