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You know those epic, sliw-mo shots of cars sliding through the leafs in fall?

It doesn't quite work as well with RCs...

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For me, I finished the custom XM1S Beetle and took the car for a nice final test drive. :D   The car drives so well I love it.  Very low ride height, zero rubbing 4WD traction.  For Xpress, it does not matter 210 or 239mm wheel base, still turns sharp with a tight turn radius.   👍

The 25.5 BL is fine for my driving space, it's like a SportTuned motor kind of overall speed, but with like 10x the torque so braking is instant which is fantastic.  The motor lacks a bit of modulation vs my 240S or my ThunderPower BL, but it could be because of the high gearing I am using.  I will try a larger pinion down the road and perhaps a steel pinion.

I posted a reel in prep for a quick photoshoot tomorrow.  Please check it out if interested on instagram.  I think it turned out pretty good.  #pretendRCshop 

 

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8 hours ago, Elbowloh said:

Do I go box art?

I definitely would.  It's an uncommon body in an uncommon colour which looks fantastic.

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No pictures, but today I've played around at pretending to be @Mad Ax as I've been making my own links. I've got a Thunder Tiger 4x4 pick up, and I'm reducing the wheelbase to 215 mm from 242 mm so it can fit under a Pumpkin. In the end it will have all metal gears and a brushless motor to allow for a fun mud truck or mini monster truck.

This means sizing up and cutting all my own links using stainless steel rod. 

I've got a question, after I cut down the rod (using a small tooth mitre saw) I often loose the thread at the very end. Any top tips to reform it? 

 

 

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1 minute ago, Nikko85 said:

No pictures, but today I've played around at pretending to be @Mad Ax as I've been making my own links. I've got a Thunder Tiger 4x4 pick up, and I'm reducing the wheelbase to 215 mm from 242 mm so it can fit under a Pumpkin. In the end it will have all metal gears and a brushless motor to allow for a fun mud truck or mini monster truck.

This means sizing up and cutting all my own links using stainless steel rod. 

I've got a question, after I cut down the rod (using a small tooth mitre saw) I often loose the thread at the very end. Any top tips to reform it? 

 

 

I can't find the making links guide just now but I recall using a nut on the threaded rod - having it on your new link prior to making the cut and then running it back up the rod and off the end to help reform the end. Does that help? 

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14 hours ago, Badcrumble said:

I can't find the making links guide just now but I recall using a nut on the threaded rod - having it on your new link prior to making the cut and then running it back up the rod and off the end to help reform the end. Does that help? 

Yes, that sounds like a great plan. I messed up one ball end with a badly cut rod, but that sounds like a good idea. Going from the good end and turning towards the cut should really help.

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Just made my first purchase from Mercari via Buyee :)

Keeping my fingers crossed it goes as planned.

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3 minutes ago, Tobyone said:

Just made my first purchase from Mercari via Buyee :)

Keeping my fingers crossed it goes as planned.

I don't know what any of this means but I wish you luck.😄

 

I'm still waiting for this PS dark blue for my Fiat 131 to become available in this country, like many others no doubt.

Why did Tamiya release a car with no paint...

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7 minutes ago, Yoshimitsu said:

I'm still waiting for this PS dark blue for my Fiat 131 to become available in this country, like many others no doubt.

Why did Tamiya release a car with no paint...

Maybe that is why we aren't seeing any builds yet (youtube or otherwise)?

Is it this one? https://tamico.de/Tamiya-Lexan-Spray-Dose-PS-XX-Dunkel-Blau-Farbspray

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2 minutes ago, JimBear said:

Maybe that is why we aren't seeing any builds yet (youtube or otherwise)?

Is it this one? https://tamico.de/Tamiya-Lexan-Spray-Dose-PS-XX-Dunkel-Blau-Farbspray

Still waiting on body sets too. I have a couple on pre-order and best estimate for delivery is Q4 2023 :(

Shame you have to spend 165 euros with Tamico to order for delivery to the UK, that's a lot of paint!

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2 hours ago, Nikko85 said:

after I cut down the rod (using a small tooth mitre saw) I often loose the thread at the very end. Any top tips to reform it? 

The old "screwing a nut on first then backing it out" method works well if the thread isn't too damaged.  I have the benefit of a small bench grinder which I use to cone off the ends of the rods just like how they arrive in the post, this helps getting the thread to start off in the rod ends.  You might be able to do it with a Dremel or even a hand file if you're careful.

4 minutes ago, Tobyone said:

Shame you have to spend 165 euros with Tamico to order for delivery to the UK, that's a lot of paint!

Sounds like an excuse to order another NIB to me :)

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20 minutes ago, Mad Ax said:

The old "screwing a nut on first then backing it out" method works well if the thread isn't too damaged.  I have the benefit of a small bench grinder which I use to cone off the ends of the rods just like how they arrive in the post, this helps getting the thread to start off in the rod ends.  You might be able to do it with a Dremel or even a hand file if you're careful.

Sounds like an excuse to order another NIB to me :)

That's a good idea. Or put the rod in a drill and sand against a flat board take the bad first threads out of play.

I think I've messed up one end - but I am assuming they are mainly generic/replaceable.

It's a fun project, certainly much more like mechano!

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37 minutes ago, Mad Ax said:

The old "screwing a nut on first then backing it out" method works well if the thread isn't too damaged.  I have the benefit of a small bench grinder which I use to cone off the ends of the rods just like how they arrive in the post, this helps getting the thread to start off in the rod ends.  You might be able to do it with a Dremel or even a hand file if you're careful.

Sounds like an excuse to order another NIB to me :)

I tidy up the ends of cut rod with a hand file, just enough to remove any protrusions is all you need IMO. 

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2 hours ago, Yoshimitsu said:

I don't know what any of this means but I wish you luck.😄

 

I'm still waiting for this PS dark blue for my Fiat 131 to become available in this country, like many others no doubt.

Why did Tamiya release a car with no paint...

That is the non-metallic dark blue, correct?  I believe that paint was discontinued..  

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/spray-ps-polycarbonate/ps-dark-blue/

Tamiya discontinued the light gray they use to offer on the original 1000 TCR.. I really like that light gray color.  I'd need to mix my own in this case.

 

 

For me today, going to cut the JJ WC main body again (take2 since I messed up the front hole and tower opening locations last time :blink:)       I plan to do a reel (short video clip) of the JJ WC with my standard Ultima and Scorpions once the body is done.

.. and photoshoot the new Beetle.  B)  The reel I posted last night got decent number of views so that is good.  

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Just now, Willy iine said:

That is the non-metallic dark blue, correct?  I believe that paint was discontinued..  

No it's a special colour for the Fiat 66994 we're waiting for.

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Took the first step toward starting my own wheel store. Been 3D printing and prototyping for about 2 years now. Been saying I wanted to start selling them online for a while but I keep getting carried away and designing new ones, up to about 140 so far. But I decided to get a few sets printed professionally in proper decent resin so I can give them a proper test run and they arrived today. If all goes well I can narrow down my selection to stuff I think will sell best and see how it goes. I feel there's a gap in the market for a lot of rim styles that none of the big companies are making, especially a lot of the older JDM retro type rims.

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‘‘Twas a good day” did a bit of 1:1 driving in the Mazda ( had the roof down whilst driving) then went to the skatepark and did my best Kevin Talbot imitation with the Arrma Gorgon on 2s. It’s a really tuff fun platform. Only real issue is the motor can shift after a heavy landing loosing drive. Mind you better than breaking something 

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7 hours ago, Nikko85 said:

No pictures, but today I've played around at pretending to be @Mad Ax as I've been making my own links. I've got a Thunder Tiger 4x4 pick up, and I'm reducing the wheelbase to 215 mm from 242 mm so it can fit under a Pumpkin. In the end it will have all metal gears and a brushless motor to allow for a fun mud truck or mini monster truck.

This means sizing up and cutting all my own links using stainless steel rod. 

I've got a question, after I cut down the rod (using a small tooth mitre saw) I often loose the thread at the very end. Any top tips to reform it? 

 

 

Probably a bit late now but when I shortened the GOM chassis I made up two plates made out of strip aluminium and drilled holes in it for the axles at the length I wanted the basically bolted them on with wheel nuts and it made it easy to measure and cut the right lengths.

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Yesterday I started and finished a new body for our battered The Grasshopper. My first hobby grade RC-car! Bought in the first months of 2021. Starting a new hobby.

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One of the shocktowers is almost completely detached from the chassis so this car will spend the rest of its life on the shelf. We sure had a lot of fun together!

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Its new home.

Excuse the bad lighting. I think the camera on my phone is also at the end of its life.

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7 hours ago, Mark_McQ said:

Took the first step toward starting my own wheel store. Been 3D printing and prototyping for about 2 years now. Been saying I wanted to start selling them online for a while but I keep getting carried away and designing new ones, up to about 140 so far. But I decided to get a few sets printed professionally in proper decent resin so I can give them a proper test run and they arrived today. If all goes well I can narrow down my selection to stuff I think will sell best and see how it goes. I feel there's a gap in the market for a lot of rim styles that none of the big companies are making, especially a lot of the older JDM retro type rims.

IMG_20231109_140307.jpg.71322fc4175acd1692fb237a523d25ff.jpg

Gorgeous wheels. Another tip for production would be BBS E-30 style mesh wheels and Ronal Racing in M-Chassis size. That would be a certain success  I think. I know my M-05 Golf needs that.

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For me, posted photos of my XM1S Beetle in the gallery only thread.  More pictures and reel available on instagram #pretendRCshop.   Please check them out if interested.  B)

Besides this, I cut the JJ WC Ultima (take2) body this morning, masked, and painted.    I'm going to do a little more shaping after the paint cures as it is easier for me to see cut line imperfections with paint vs clear (old man eyes).  I did not mess up the front holes and tower openings this time.  :lol:  haha

 

 

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40 minutes ago, Andreas W said:

Gorgeous wheels. Another tip for production would be BBS E-30 style mesh wheels and Ronal Racing in M-Chassis size. That would be a certain success  I think. I know my M-05 Golf needs that.

Great recommendations... But someone has already facilitated the M-chassis Ronal Turbo's and is working on the BBS too...

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I cut the rest of the links and even managed to fix the bad ends, so the 4x4 pumpkin is back on track. In the end I went for 71 mm upper and 54 mm lower.

 

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Just used 3 mm stainless for these. Should be strong enough on this scale and weight car.

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Wheelbase matches perfectly!

Could drop the body a little, at the moment it's just resting on the chassis.

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Width seems to match well. Got lucky here.

These are just temporary tires. I may go full pumpkin..

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So yay, looking like its going to work! Thanks all for the help, first time doing anything with links or solid axle rigs.

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3 hours ago, Nikko85 said:

 

ZisgzAS.jpeg

 

Great work mate. I have to say this looks so good and I really like the elevated body height. 

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