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@Nikko85 - oh sweet potato! These ones look good - I am partial to Edgars Safari (Amewi or Fayee body?). :)

The rear arches on the FJ45 look a smidge too tight to me. No matter - I just wish I could get off from the "oooh, shiny!" things on the internets and actually do something. :D Good tip on the Sand tyres on the M rims - will have to make a note of that - thanks!

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18 hours ago, naturbo2000 said:

I put together a 186mm wheelbase MF-01X. I've got to stretch it out to 190mm yet, but figure I can do that at the wishbones. I'd best get some small radio gear on order.

It's going to be touch and go as to whether the chassis is low profile enough as it'll be easier than taking 20mm out of an M06 (I at least have a backup plan for 15mm there).

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I 3D printer spacers if you are interested that allow for more sizes than stock.

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32 minutes ago, Nikko85 said:

I 3D printer spacers if you are interested that allow for more sizes than stock.

PM'd. I had thought about custom spacers but don't have the equipment or talent and had gone off the idea. But seeing how tough the chassis is during assembly, I'm pretty sure 3D printed parts there would be plenty strong enough, especially in the extra short chassis sizes.

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Replied.

I think I also had a post about it somewhere for an MF01X Pumpkin I was planning! 

3D parts seemed super tough in this application. 

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Last few evenings I have been obsessively 3d modelling. It's not fast but I hope to achieve some quite good stuff, and every day it seems a new idea pops into my head. Yesterday multiple 7mm ball joints to test to destruction before I design them into suspension arms. Today I've modelled a first go at a water resistant TPU-lined mount for my Hobbywing ESC switches, which if it works I intend then to add different mounting points for my various models. I much prefer to have an accessible and properly fixed switch but not to worry about dirt and wet damaging it. If I ever model a gearbox case it will get a complete gasket modelled for it in TPU as well, because that would be a relatively easy addition to the modelling for big benefit - a really complete sealing method.

 

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8 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

Last few evenings I have been obsessively 3d modelling. It's not fast but I hope to achieve some quite good stuff, and every day it seems a new idea pops into my head. Yesterday multiple 7mm ball joints to test to destruction before I design them into suspension arms. Today I've modelled a first go at a water resistant TPU-lined mount for my Hobbywing ESC switches, which if it works I intend then to add different mounting points for my various models. I much prefer to have an accessible and properly fixed switch but not to worry about dirt and wet damaging it. If I ever model a gearbox case it will get a complete gasket modelled for it in TPU as well, because that would be a relatively easy addition to the modelling for big benefit - a really complete sealing method.

 

Clever stuff, way above my pay grade 😂

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Started fitting the new carbon reinforced chassis to my XV-02. It is WAY stiffer. 👍 

ese4B8G.jpg

 

LtjxwYq.jpg

 

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58 minutes ago, Grumpy pants said:

Clever stuff, way above my pay grade 😂

I'm definitely not clever, but I'm quite good at repeated trial and error and on a computer screen I can start again without having broken anything! 

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2 minutes ago, BuggyDad said:

I'm definitely not clever, but I'm quite good at repeated trial and error and on a computer screen I can start again without having broken anything! 

I can so relate to this!! :lol:

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I didn't "do" this, but I did commission it from a local contact after being absolutely offended at the Shapeways shipping cost:

IMG-20231115-WA0004.thumb.jpg.02d66b842106be6fa6e236c2ad22f2f7.jpg

 

Total cost to me? £10. 

Shapeways equivalent? £75.

:lol:

 

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40 minutes ago, ChrisRx718 said:

I didn't "do" this, but I did commission it from a local contact after being absolutely offended at the Shapeways shipping cost:

IMG-20231115-WA0004.thumb.jpg.02d66b842106be6fa6e236c2ad22f2f7.jpg

 

Total cost to me? £10. 

Shapeways equivalent? £75.

:lol:

 

Nice parts.

 

This is exactly why my Grasshornet never got the wheel adapters for the Scorpion rims and the tab for the rear axle and had to do with the Scorpion drive washer and fishing string mod. The ridiculously hefty freight is just killing it. 

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6 minutes ago, Andreas W said:

Nice parts.

 

This is exactly why my Grasshornet never got the wheel adapters for the Scorpion rims and the tab for the rear axle and had to do with the Scorpion drive washer and fishing string mod. The ridiculously hefty freight is just killing it. 

Do you have models for the wheel adaptors you want? I'm going to be sending a print job to Lancashire3d.uk in the near future - they don't post to Norway, but I can add your parts in and then post them to you (I promise I will be cheaper than Shapeways!!)

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For me, practiced gimbal video taking last night and still better at choreographed free-hand junk iPhone12 mini video taking so posted a quick heads-up reel on the group photoshoot I will be doing on the JJ WC Ultima this morning. ( @Raman36 if interested, I posted on instagram. #pretendRCshop.   Please check it out).

Actually I already took the group video last night, but will post the reel tomorrow.  I have to say, the JC WC Ultima, Ultima, and Tomahawk, Scorpion, all pop.   👍

I really want to do a metallic blue Tomahawk..  I saw @Kai City RC's blue one and man.. :wub:     .. but where would I display it?  :( :lol:

 

 @bRIBEGuy that Willy navigator photo you posted in the gallery thread is hilarious!  Very well done!  haha!  :D 

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2 hours ago, jonboy1 said:

Do you have models for the wheel adaptors you want? I'm going to be sending a print job to Lancashire3d.uk in the near future - they don't post to Norway, but I can add your parts in and then post them to you (I promise I will be cheaper than Shapeways!!)

The adapters were created by @Pintopower (doesn't frequent the forums much these days but is very active on Facebook).

They're listed on My Mini Factory where you can donate to the cause and download the .stl file.

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10 hours ago, jonboy1 said:

Do you have models for the wheel adaptors you want? I'm going to be sending a print job to Lancashire3d.uk in the near future - they don't post to Norway, but I can add your parts in and then post them to you (I promise I will be cheaper than Shapeways!!)

Thank you for the kind offer and PM resulting in a PM back to you :)

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3 hours ago, cosworthwesty said:

Finished my T3-01 in Chips style 😂

IMG_1693.jpeg

That is so good. Amazing work!

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This evening I have been really getting my geek on. Bear with me!

Designing compact steering parts to fit DT-03 (should fit loads of others to), aiming to beef up the material (because 3D printed plastic is nowhere near as strong as the best molded stuff) while also maximising throw. To that end I have been trying to design a c hub that really maximises its own bracing around the constraints of the upright.

 

DT parts max throw2

I can get to 40 degrees throw on the inside wheel (as pictured). Is this good, inadequate, or just passable? I'm not sure. If anyone has a view I'd love to hear it. I think it's about on a par with my DT-03s as they are. One key thing this does have going for it (and the main reason for creating it) is that by comparison with the other hex conversions I have found for bearing wheel buggies it has reduced Ackermann angles. This is relevant because on most models the arms of the uprights create most of the Ackermann, but these basic buggies tend to have direct-to-servo tie rods, and the servo saver in those situations creates a lot of Ackermann itself, so on them you don't really want the upright adding to it much further or the outside wheel really lacks angle.

I might also design some uprights which go almost straight back like the stock ones. The above example is more of a halfway house. But in any case it's not the arm that's fouling the c-hub here, it's the bearing housing, and that's got nowhere to go, so the only way to increase throw now is to extend the kingpin outwards in a bigger "C", which I'd only do if really necessary (strength effect).

 

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Nice job @cosworthwesty!     I am sure it will make both Robert and Chris Pines proud!  :D 

 

For me, did some minor video editing on the reel I will be posting tomorrow.   I have a few Mac's and decided to bring one of the Mac-Air's to the pretendRCshop as its permanent home.   The factory Photo software in the Macs have white balancing feature so it makes it A LOT easier to get the colors where I want it.   But I noticed I could not just drag drop the edited video files on iMovies in the Mac and use it as- is as I can on iOS for some reason.. the video file becomes the pre-edited color version.. :wacko: not sure why that is as the edited photo's dropped in just fine.

Anyway, I will just use my iPhone's imovie to do the final edit and post it on instagram this time.  I'm not making any production level clips so it's perfectly fine.  👍

Updated.. I posted the JJ WC Ultima group reel this morning on instagram.  Please check it out if interested.  I need to dial back vibrance next time around.. the compression on Instagram takes a bit of getting use to as it also changes the color of my grainy videos.. :wacko: #pretendRCshop 

Update2..  been driving my XM1S and XM1C this morning and the biggest difference I am noticing is the throttle modulation.. I am running a HW 25.5BL on the XM1S (Beetle#3) and modulation is not as smooth as my old ThunderPower motor in my XM1C (21.5BL).  I noticed the same issue with HW's highend 21.5BL in my TRF420X..  the chassis is stable enough one can drive it not thinking too much about it, but just not smooth like the LeMans240S or ThunderPower.. or even Tamiya's BL for that matter.  I think I'm going to swap the 25.5 to a 19.5 LeMans since I have inventory.. or just get a 21.5 gold motor..

Edited by Willy iine
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I finally got around the painting my BBX.  My goal was to create a Blue that had some interesting depth to it. So I started with their translucent blue.  I also sprayed a scrap piece of lexan with it and then tested backing it with: dark anthracite, light anthracite and silver.  All had very cool effects. I settled on backing the upper body with silver. It’s a little darker than the TRF blue. The lower portion will be light anthracite. 

 

 

72187999878__25B7655C-9EDB-441C-999B-7DBB8EF7E842.jpeg

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The F104 came back in stock today so I snapped one up from my local(ish) hobby shop. I’m so excited I’m driving the 30 miles to pick it up tomorrow rather than wait for a delivery on Monday. 

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13 minutes ago, Nick-W said:

The F104 came back in stock today so I snapped one up from my local(ish) hobby shop. I’m so excited I’m driving the 30 miles to pick it up tomorrow rather than wait for a delivery on Monday. 

It is a chassis well worth getting excited about. What are your plans for it?

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1 minute ago, TurnipJF said:

It is a chassis well worth getting excited about. What are your plans for it?

Chassis wise, because I’ve waited so long for it to come back in stock I’ve picked up most of the HopUps just by adding them on to PJ orders. I’m just missing the front suspension arms block really.

It’ll be a brushed motor with a LiPo battery, I think. I’d like to get it out on a track but nowhere nearby runs an F1 class. I might be able to get a few practice laps in before racing starts at my local club.

Paint is still up in the air. I thought about Racing Green/Jaguar but my wife hates that colour. Maybe a yellow nineties Jordan style. 
I really can’t wait! 

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1 minute ago, Nick-W said:

Paint is still up in the air. I thought about Racing Green/Jaguar but my wife hates that colour. Maybe a yellow nineties Jordan style. 
I really can’t wait! 

They look pretty good in Caterham livery with metallic green paint. 

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