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1 hour ago, Kpowell911 said:

What part number are those shocks?

They look like #54504 & #54505.

Springs are #54506, #54507 & #54508

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3 hours ago, Kpowell911 said:

What part number are those shocks?

54505 Aeration Big Bore dampers front and rear. Built with the Y1 spacer on the front shocks per the regular Evo HiCap build. Standard Evo springs work all round,  though at the rear I'm using the red spring from 54508.

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I started the M-08 build this afternoon. It’s going together well so far. 
Should have it finished tomorrow. 
 

XFN2LD8.jpeg

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@BuggyDad homebrew buggy looks sharp to say the least. You are doing something truly amazing. And after all that effort, you'll get to name it too! 😉

As for me, I finally resurfaced from the booth after a week or so of painting shenanigans (funniest of which was me trying to transport the masked, prepped, vulnerable body through a blizzard all the way to the garage without getting it wet 🤣). 

A detailed description and more pictures are available on the build thread. Anyway, now I have a shiny body ready to decal 🤩

That moment when you peel off the film is just priceless. 

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On 2/22/2024 at 11:34 PM, naturbo2000 said:

I added some bling to the Top Force Evo. I race it, and the price Plaza Japan wanted for these shocks was just too tempting to turn down.

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Amusingly, those collars and bottom mounts are the only blue on the build.

Nice one mate😎 I've also toyed with the idea of fitting a set of the PJ sourced🇯🇵(and temptingly priced🤩) big bores to my EVO too. And I've also considered fitting the taller shocks bodied rear set to the front, with an internal spacer perhaps, just like the stock hicaps setup. Have you fitted a taller front shock tower? And did you go with the internal spacer?

Also, a bit of oven cleaner will remove that blue in no time and leave you with a dull grey finish which could look pretty cool.

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5 minutes ago, Kol__ said:

Nice one mate😎 I've also toyed with the idea of fitting a set of the PJ sourced🇯🇵(and temptingly priced🤩) big bores to my EVO too. And I've also considered fitting the taller shocks bodied rear set to the front, with an internal spacer perhaps, just like the stock hicaps setup. Have you fitted a taller front shock tower? And did you go with the internal spacer?

Also, a bit of oven cleaner will remove that blue in no time and leave you with a dull grey finish which could look pretty cool.

I built them just like the Hi Caps. Rear shocks on the front with an internal spacer. Standard tower and front springs. All set pretty low ground clearance because I race it indoors. The damper pack is key for landing jumps. Rears with yellow oil and 1.6mm 2 hole pistons feels awesome.  I built the front with yellow oil and 1.7mm 2 hole pistons and it feels under damped. Will know on Friday and possibly (probably) switch to 1.6 holes on the front.

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Spent some time on the rear of the legacy and made some super basic hood mounted windscreen water nozzles. 

Various vinyl stickers, tapes, and clear XF paint will bring this to life.

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My oldest friend and me doesn't see each other very often the last years. Maybe one or two times a year, but then we're still on the same level as in our glorious past. December last year I said to him: "Remember when we ran our RCs together? Imagine Tamiya is Re-Releasing your Super Sabre again!" Some weeks ago he wrote to me, that he needed some advice regarding some equipment to run a RC car. He planned buying "his old buggy" and build it again. My answer: "Imagine your Super Sabre is still somewhere in my stash. Why not rebuilding it? Save your money for some upgrades on it!"

Well I started searching for the model and finally found it. Even by the smell I could tell, that just cleaning it up would become a tedious work to do. And here we are:

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Today I started cleaning the first bits of it and even though I am not a believer ... Oh my Lord! The grease has turned to somekind of wax (at least the consistency) in the 35 years laying around. I cleaned the teeth of the gears with a cotton swab where I cut a sharp edge into the stick part of it to get between the teeth. Unfortunately one of the C-clips that hold the cups at the gearcase went flying.

I never had one of these buggies myself, even though I liked the appearance of the original Hotshot. It always remembered me of an offroad motorcycle with its monoshock system on both axles. During disassembly there was a question that turned up in my head:

How do I get rid of these strange bushings and get in some ball bearings instead?

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Regarding the first amount of work I did I would like to say something:

"To all you newcomers in the RC-business who intend building RC cars starting with a kit: NEVER! Never ever "drown" your gears in grease as we did in the late eighties!"

Getting it off is such a pain to do. And it doesn't help anything! Every single drop of grease that goes off your gears during running is wasted! It won't come back to the drivetrain. It will stick somewhere in an edge of the gearcase and won't do anything but getting hard with time creating a mess when you going to do some maintenance on your car, just causing disappointment.

I wrote something like that from time to time as a comment to some YT videos, when I see folks use ball bearings and lubricating every shaft and seat excessively. That doesn't make any sense at all. Some argued with corrosion protection, but that did not convince me. Putting grease between a shaft/seat and a ball bearing offers the possibility of a slipping shaft inside of a bearing shell what makes the ball bearing needless. And on the "outer drivetrain" it simply attracts even more dirt as you already pick up while driving. OK, just my personal belief.

Have a nice Sunday!

Cheers

Martin

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I do not remember such warm end of february. I run TT-02B on dusty asphalt. Lot of drifting and... hitting curbs.

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Dirt and crashes are something I am not used to. Last year I spent almost fully on clean asphalt.

Now, on some dirt, I ran 6 packs within 3 days and had more failures than ever before.

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Tried to find a thread I read on here once about someone making a grasshopper tribute car from a DT03 neo fighter or racing fighter?  I used search can't find it.

General dt03 build threads I'm looking for. 

List them if you know, thanks.

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28 minutes ago, F-150 said:

Tried to find a thread I read on here once about someone making a grasshopper tribute car from a DT03 neo fighter or racing fighter?  I used search can't find it.

General dt03 build threads I'm looking for. 

List them if you know, thanks.

Kinda like this one?

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/82220-grasshopper-dt03-adventures-in-getting-back-into-rc-now-with-proline-truck-shell/

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4 hours ago, urban warrior said:

Well I started searching for the model and finally found it. Even by the smell I could tell, that just cleaning it up would become a tedious work to do. And here we are:

Amazing stuff!!! To track progress and record in one place, I'd suggest creating a build thread in the builds section buddy!👍😎

Oh, and a spray can of brake cleaner to clean the grease off gears will clean if off in seconds. A bit of agitation with an old tooth brush will remove an stubborn stuff. Some have said it could damage the plastics, but I have never found any evidence to that end🙂

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9 hours ago, naturbo2000 said:

I built them just like the Hi Caps. Rear shocks on the front with an internal spacer. Standard tower and front springs. All set pretty low ground clearance because I race it indoors. The damper pack is key for landing jumps. Rears with yellow oil and 1.6mm 2 hole pistons feels awesome.  I built the front with yellow oil and 1.7mm 2 hole pistons and it feels under damped. Will know on Friday and possibly (probably) switch to 1.6 holes on the front.

Nice one mate. I went with the 1.6mm and 400 weight standard yellow Tamiya oil in the big bores on the rear of my Dyna Storm. On the front (shorter shock bodies) I went 1.7mm and 100 weight, due to the very light 2WD front end, but I think I'm going to change out to 400.

I'm still undecided on whether to go with the big bores on my EVO. Need to run it a bit as it is first once the better weather is here and decide after that. Let us know how you get on with them please mate👍👍

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The m-08 was almost finished today. I need to install the ESC, adjust the shocks (it might be a little low) and change the hexs (8mm is too wide). 
I also mounted the shell quickly. I only had time to put on a couple of the pin stripe stickers but I think it’ll look good when finished, at least until it hits the track. 
PiQ7U4N.jpeg

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I found a new spot for my off-roaders, lots of flat dirt and gravel that's perfect for buggies and trucks.

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3 hours ago, Badcrumble said:

Yes that the one, thanks. 

I'm firing up a Dt03 project I have planned and getting some ideas. I have the racing fighter with all possible bolt on upgrades.  Long story, but I went way to much on this buggy...I'm in it now, so may as well get it done lol 

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3 hours ago, F-150 said:

General dt03 build threads I'm looking for. 

List them if you know, thanks.

Here is another with a few examples:

 

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4 hours ago, Yoshimitsu said:

53550600567_c0c4d0caaa_k.jpg

Looks ace 👍🏻

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8 hours ago, urban warrior said:

Never ever "drown" your gears in grease as we did in the late eighties!"

How we used to plaster grease when we were like 13.  Lol...  (Come on, we all did it!) 

But you are absolutely right.  Making the gears swim in caramel is self-sabotage.   And automotive grease isn't "better."  Petroleum based grease will crack plastic gears!  (Plastic is also petroleum based. It's like paint solvent destroying paint.)  Plastic gears won't rust like metal gears anyway.  This much grease and a bit of bigger tires will burn out the motor in no time.  

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I've been using plastic-safe teflon grease for 20+ years.  (LaBellle 106 grease, first used on my Wild Willy 2 in 2001, which still has this grease on the gears).  Even this was a little too much.  Being touched by grease is enough.   

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The point is to make them run smoothly, especially when there are lots of them.  (I took off shields on ball bearings and re-applied with light oil. So they could run like ceramic bearings, only quieter.  It was not a necessary step at all.  But I had fun playing with them.) 

D9bGIHT.gif

 

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On 2/24/2024 at 11:08 AM, mtbkym01 said:

 

My Flickr account is basically full (without paying for pro), and I cant get TCPhoto’s to work for me (Apparently I have an account but cant reset the password, just dont get emails), so was looking at imgur, but this feedback above doesnt sound great

Sorry to hear TC Photos isn’t working for you as it’s mostly what I use now 😬

I found Imgur to work great on a computer but was a real pest via the phone app. 

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@Re-Bugged I’m thinking I might try TCPhotos via my computer to see if I get the email that way, only tried on iPhone and iPad so far

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3 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

Sorry to hear TC Photos isn’t working for you as it’s mostly what I use now 😬

I found Imgur to work great on a computer but was a real pest via the phone app. 

I use Imgur on my phone by selecting "Desktop Site". Then I can use it the same as on my pc. Not as easy but at least it works.

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Gears for the electrified Mugen Seiki came in so some work on that to overcome the issues that came to light at its first test run.

Small re-position on the motor bracket mounting holes for correct mesh.
Center gearbox now with nylon gear, motor with brass gear, and locktight as the screws were coming loose.
Filled the shocks.
Fitted extra grippy HPI tires, and glued them.

Test run later when all glue is dry.

Qid01Sy.jpg

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