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I spent part of the afternoon doing not a hillwalking session (a la @Mad Ax) but rather a streetwalking session with the kid and his newly painted, spiffy DT-01 around the village.

I was mentally set up to be doing some work on Socky the CR-01 but well, as soon as I think of grabbing a screwdriver, there's a call for help or attention somewhere in the house ... No matter, this weekend turned out to be for the DT-01, with watching the kid do his first paint job, and get it running again. 9 euros for a can of paint at the big box store, but moments and memories; absolutely priceless.

And for the first time in recorded history, the DT-01 tracks straight, and goes where you want to. Whether it is the new paint or the M3 threaded rods up front, I can't say for sure. :)

Photo added below - the driver is off for a cup of tea and a ham sandwich after a long drive.

dt01.jpg

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Finished the damper stays for my TA02 + TRF foam bumper kit. Replaced the square body post mounts on the rear damper stay with the later two-hole style body posts from the 51253 Evo 5 bumper sprue and deleted the body post mount from the front damper stay as they became redundant. Added a middle position for front damper adjustment for the heck of it.

 

TA02 Damper Stays.jpg

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It was a gorgeous afternoon so I gathered a few of my favorite toys and played in the dirt. :D

 

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I've located some bearings for the Mid so I plan to reassemble it tonight and run it in the morning. 

Spring is the best time of the year.:) 

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Worked on the Honda project. Wheels, lamps, and oem markings. All a wip but going forward nicely. Expirementing with the rear lamps which to go, left is about half way to what I am thinking.

Wildly different lighting conditions excuse the varying photo qualities :)

 

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I had my first real breakage with the Redcat Lightning, it clipped a dip in the road and rolled over which snapped the wing. I'll probably just tape it back on, no biggie.

I also grabbed another WPL Jimny, they've made a few small but noticeable improvements that make them run better.

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Test drove the now proper 4WD Brat I’ve cobbled together out parts I have already on the Terra Scorcher chassis. Turns out to be well suited to backyard bashing 😃

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It really looks the part @Re-Bugged, I can't believe there's a Terra Scorcher chassis under that Brat! 😲😎

Not today but yesterday I tackled the shocks on my AE RC10, which needed refilling.

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I replaced the oil entirely, smeared all the parts with Green Slime, and applied a tiny bead of marine grade silicone around the old gaskets on the top part of the shocks.

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This should be enough for the good season and maybe more, since I don't drive it that often, but for next time I plan on replacing all the O rings with new associated ones. I already have them in stock, but wanted to squeeze whatever life is left out the old ones 😁

In low rider stance 

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Here it is once done. Next, it's time to drive!

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On 4/28/2024 at 11:55 PM, Wystan Withers said:

Finished the damper stays for my TA02 + TRF foam bumper kit. Replaced the square body post mounts on the rear damper stay with the later two-hole style body posts from the 51253 Evo 5 bumper sprue and deleted the body post mount from the front damper stay as they became redundant. Added a middle position for front damper adjustment for the heck of it.

 

TA02 Damper Stays.jpg

 

Are your damper stays home made? The cutting looks perfect. 

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The ups and downs of the RC hobby ... we had a memento mori moment (RC-wise) yesterday while out running. Kid is ahead of me, uphill on a deadend street where normally no 1:1 cars drive. At one point there is a sharp curve where sight is very limited.

Of course, sunny warm day and all ... a car comes slowly around the curve, but too quick for us to see. Kid steps on the RC brakes and watches as the 1:1 car passes over his buggy with a "thump" and drives on, the driver seeing and hearing nothing. If I had seen what happened, I would have flagged down the 1:1 driver, but I only understood what had happened afterwards. Unhappy kid and a flattened RC car.

We pick up the pieces, somewhat shaken, and walk home to the kitchen table. The DT-01 chassis broken up front, the body post and rear shock tower bent.

Luckily, he used a runner body, and nobody got injured. And I've ordered some spares today.

 

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On 4/27/2024 at 3:29 AM, Re-Bugged said:

I’ve been chewing over body alternatives for the Terra Scorcher. Firstly was a Sand Scorcher following on from one I had on a Javelin chassis for while that I liked.

Secondly a wondered about a Hot Shot body? (Bit of a coincidence @ThunderDragonCy 😉 nice work on the TD4👍🏻)

But then this seemed like a good option as the front post was all to easy using what I have already, albeit maybe re-drilling the bonnet hole to put the body slightly forward a bit. Underneath the bonnet a piece of Lexan is now shoe gooed ready for that as the hole will be close to the existing one,

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A 4wd Brat seems just right to me. Nice work!

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2 hours ago, Tamiyastef said:

A 4wd Brat seems just right to me. Nice work!

Another one of those "nicer pairing than the originals" to me!

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12 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

Test drove the now proper 4WD Brat I’ve cobbled together out parts I have already on the Terra Scorcher chassis. Turns out to be well suited to backyard bashing 😃

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That's perfect!  You have inspired me. :D

I happen to have a spare Brat body and now I want a 4wd chassis for it.  One with lots of tire poke - like yours.

Thank you. :D

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Passed by the hobby shop today, bought a liter of nitro fuel for my 1/8 buggy that I haven’t run in years

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Then went to the mall because the wife had to do some shopping. Luckily there is an RC track inside the mall. Brought the TT-02 Type S with genuine Tamiya hopups as well as my TT-02 Type AE-S “AliExpress Special” :lol: 

Last week I broke the left front upright on the TT-02 AE-S, today I broke the right side. I don’t know if it’s because the plastic is already brittle because I didn’t even crash when it broke. Went ahead and placed an order for aluminum front and rear uprights. Less than $9 for the entire set, it’s worth it if it means not having to do the walk of shame around the track looking for the diff joint and plastic upright spacers every time the front upright breaks

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11 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

Are your damper stays home made? The cutting looks perfect. 

Yup, homemade. Santa brought me one of those cheapo 3018 CNC 'engravers' for X-mas and been fiddling with it.  It handles CF fine if you set it to go slow, and I used my 3d printer to print a tray for a water bath to catch the evil dust. Takes some fiddling with the designs to get things just right but I'm getting there. For example holes in my design need to be 3.2mm to deliver a 3mm hole... just lots of trial and error which gets pricy in CF. Current dilemma is finding just the right setting to get counter sunk holes correct- if you look closely at the pic, the screws on the chassis plate stand just a hair proud, and on the bumper adapter are cut just a hair larger than they need to be. I likely shouldn't obsess about it too much, but the plan is to offer the chassis plates for sale, and IMHO they should be perfect before I do so.

 

Last night's wacky idea- a saddle pack plate for the TA02S. Basically just a shortened top force, using the TF J parts and standoffs and such. Is there any practical reason someone would want this 30 years late? No, but I do have this lovely Lancia body left over from the 934 project...

 

TA02 lower 1 v21.jpg

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16 hours ago, Ferruz said:

It really looks the part @Re-Bugged, I can't believe there's a Terra Scorcher chassis under that Brat! 😲😎

Not today but yesterday I tackled the shocks on my AE RC10, which needed refilling.

I replaced the oil entirely, smeared all the parts with Green Slime, and applied a tiny bead of marine grade silicone around the old gaskets on the top part of the shocks.

 

This should be enough for the good season and maybe more, since I don't drive it that often, but for next time I plan on replacing all the O rings with new associated ones. I already have them in stock, but wanted to squeeze whatever life is left out the old ones 😁

 

What a nice buggy.  The body, wing and livery are perfection. :)

Servicing shocks is so much fun - said no one ever.  :lol:

The C-clips on those bottom loaders can be fiddly.  My pliers won't fit so I'll resort to using a small screw driver and a knife blade to work them out.  Top loaders are much easier to service - but they came along later.

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On 4/28/2024 at 10:07 PM, JimBear said:

I spent part of the afternoon doing not a hillwalking session (a la @Mad Ax) but rather a streetwalking session with the kid and his newly painted, spiffy DT-01 around the village.

I was mentally set up to be doing some work on Socky the CR-01 but well, as soon as I think of grabbing a screwdriver, there's a call for help or attention somewhere in the house ... No matter, this weekend turned out to be for the DT-01, with watching the kid do his first paint job, and get it running again. 9 euros for a can of paint at the big box store, but moments and memories; absolutely priceless.

And for the first time in recorded history, the DT-01 tracks straight, and goes where you want to. Whether it is the new paint or the M3 threaded rods up front, I can't say for sure. :)

Photo added below - the driver is off for a cup of tea and a ham sandwich after a long drive.

dt01.jpg

Loving the colour matched wheel nuts!

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2 hours ago, Wystan Withers said:

Yup, homemade. Santa brought me one of those cheapo 3018 CNC 'engravers' for X-mas and been fiddling with it.  It handles CF fine if you set it to go slow, and I used my 3d printer to print a tray for a water bath to catch the evil dust. Takes some fiddling with the designs to get things just right but I'm getting there. For example holes in my design need to be 3.2mm to deliver a 3mm hole... just lots of trial and error which gets pricy in CF. Current dilemma is finding just the right setting to get counter sunk holes correct- if you look closely at the pic, the screws on the chassis plate stand just a hair proud, and on the bumper adapter are cut just a hair larger than they need to be. I likely shouldn't obsess about it too much, but the plan is to offer the chassis plates for sale, and IMHO they should be perfect before I do so.

 

Last night's wacky idea- a saddle pack plate for the TA02S. Basically just a shortened top force, using the TF J parts and standoffs and such. Is there any practical reason someone would want this 30 years late? No, but I do have this lovely Lancia body left over from the 934 project...

 

TA02 lower 1 v21.jpg

Whoa. Just googled that. I had no idea you could get a CNC machine capable of this for this sort of money!

I've been cutting CF sheet myself manually to paper drawings glued to the face but if I had such a machine I guess my accuracy could be much improved, as well as my ability to do finer detail and presentable curves. I would be interested to know more about your use of this machine for through cuts in CF sheet. What bits do you use? Do you need anything more than comes with it? How have you kept the work piece attached to the rest of the clamped down sheet as you cut right through? Left a little bridging material or just not cut all the way and finished it by hand? Or fixed it down centrally somehow?

For countersinks in 2mm sheet I was pleasantly surprised by how good a job I could do with this fairly simple bit with attached depth stop in my bench drill:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07NS6HS1F

I had to set its depth by trial and error but I only use M3 screws so that was a job I only had to do once. 

I also ended up using a 3.2mm bit for the holes for ease of assembly (and if they're countersunk anyway I assume that'll centre them). 

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Took the day off.....after 18holes of golf hit the track for some practice with one of my TLRs....wasn't happy with my results Sunday, so practice was needed.

Ran 4 battery packs over 3 hours.

In between I walked the shop waiting for the next project to jump out at me.....might be a Euro Truck as we can race them locally but I already have a TT-02.....so.....

Was and still kinda am contemplating building an Optima Mid reissue and trying to campaign it in the 13.5T 4wd classes just to be different than the typical TLR 22X-4 and B7s but.......I can't get any firm grip on whether parts will be available for the common breakables......

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Nothing too special on the set up- the machine is box-stock and I just use standard 1.5mm flatnose end mills. It isn't rigid enough, nor does it spin fast enough, to cut aluminum but eventually I'll add the upgrades to do that and eventually get my palm router mounted in it (gantry needs a lot more beef before that can happen). These entry level units are very much like the Tamiya business model- enough to get you started but you'll become addicted to the hop ups. I run it off an old laptop I just leave in the garage, I do recommend that over the little hand controller although the hand controller will suffice if you absolutely know your file will perform the way you want it to the first time (my rudimentary CAD skills mean that has never ben the case for me).

The only real modification I've done to it is to add the printed water bed which has little stand offs in it meant to be threaded and used with work holding clamps but I went a slightly different route- once it was installed on the worktable I milled the tops of them to a uniform height and glued a sheet of 1/4" lexan to it for the sacrificial work surface. I use removable silicone mounting tape to hold the CF to the lexan and so long as I include some in the center where the part is I don't have to worry about tabs or things like that.

Only real upgrade I'd classify as a NEED right now is the extension kit (enlarging the work area from 300mm x 180mm to 300 mm x 400mm) as the 180 is to small to cut chassis plates much larger that the TA01/02 plates. For example if a fella were silly enough to be so inclined as to cut custom 230mm WB chassis plates for the TA03 and up or TRF cars (wink, wink; nudge, nudge, coming soon to a town near you) I wouldn't be able to do so without a lot of waste. I think I could make it work if I aligned at at a 45* angle but that's far from ideal.

 

Edit: It's difficult to see in the pic, but the lexan sheet is shallow enough that I can fill the bed with water and the top of the CF is a couple mm below the water's surface.

 

 

 

tray.jpg

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This is why I like trucks with hard bodyshells, be it toys or RCs, they make for useful tool holders when you're not driving them.

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Just got back from a long time away from home and a fair number of rc things to do and finish. Wanted to share this interesting backbone design on a Bulldog that contains the diffs and gears. 
 

IMG_5620.jpeg

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9 hours ago, Wystan Withers said:

Nothing too special on the set up- the machine is box-stock and I just use standard 1.5mm flatnose end mills. It isn't rigid enough, nor does it spin fast enough, to cut aluminum but eventually I'll add the upgrades to do that and eventually get my palm router mounted in it (gantry needs a lot more beef before that can happen). These entry level units are very much like the Tamiya business model- enough to get you started but you'll become addicted to the hop ups. I run it off an old laptop I just leave in the garage, I do recommend that over the little hand controller although the hand controller will suffice if you absolutely know your file will perform the way you want it to the first time (my rudimentary CAD skills mean that has never ben the case for me).

The only real modification I've done to it is to add the printed water bed which has little stand offs in it meant to be threaded and used with work holding clamps but I went a slightly different route- once it was installed on the worktable I milled the tops of them to a uniform height and glued a sheet of 1/4" lexan to it for the sacrificial work surface. I use removable silicone mounting tape to hold the CF to the lexan and so long as I include some in the center where the part is I don't have to worry about tabs or things like that.

Only real upgrade I'd classify as a NEED right now is the extension kit (enlarging the work area from 300mm x 180mm to 300 mm x 400mm) as the 180 is to small to cut chassis plates much larger that the TA01/02 plates. For example if a fella were silly enough to be so inclined as to cut custom 230mm WB chassis plates for the TA03 and up or TRF cars (wink, wink; nudge, nudge, coming soon to a town near you) I wouldn't be able to do so without a lot of waste. I think I could make it work if I aligned at at a 45* angle but that's far from ideal.

 

Edit: It's difficult to see in the pic, but the lexan sheet is shallow enough that I can fill the bed with water and the top of the CF is a couple mm below the water's surface.

 

tray.jpg

I just might do this. It could be quite a small price to pay for the combination of accuracy, automation and much better dust collection. I hope you don't mind me bombarding you with a few more questions (and sorry others for the little thread derailment). I assume the bed has to be fixed down for accuracy, so do you just lift the whole machine up to empty the water? Or I could model a drain hole into the 3d print easily enough.

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Tinkering with the TD2 a bit more...

oAUMaugh.jpg

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