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10 hours ago, Andreas W said:

I am eager to see the results of that new motor. I think it would be a lot easier to run fast and you can use more of the throw on the throtle. 

 

PS: If you want to run the 24t pinion it's super easy to enlarge the hole in the motor mount. I used a stepped drillbit for it. The material is like drilling in cardboard. 

 

I am singing a lullaby here with the morning coffee and try to use my (non existent) telepathic skills to give your kids the best possible sleep, so dad can go playing with his toy car B)

Haha thank you 🙂

The discontinued and beautiful blue motor mount is a bit of a mental barrier for me to take a unibit and rebore 😅 but if I try the 24t I'll just split the chassis. So split the chassis -> measure the distance from the face of the pinion to the mount -> remove the 22t -> install the 24t with the same distance -> check for sand/dust/grit -> close the chassis. One gets used to splitting an M-05 but it's always a bit of work. 

Also I now have the newer ball diff rather than the old Manta Ray ball diff and the difference is that you can adjust it from the outside! A huge plus!

If I don't get a crack this round I'll certainly enter the next one.

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'Alfie' is ready for some fun on the tarmac. 

Tamiya TT02( I know they get some hate 🫣)

It has a high speed gear set, stock torque tuned motor, aluminium motor plate, 29t pinion  upgraded shocks, bearings, adjustable motor mount, aluminium drive cups, aluminium wheel hexes, aluminium shock towers,aluminium body posts.

 

killerbody alfa gtam bodyshell

 killerbody alfa romeo sv aluminium wheels

core RC metallic red spray paint. 

 

 

IMG-20240927-WA0019.jpeg

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Some work on the tiny Reely monstertruck I got.

Was hoping the rear gearbox used the same size bearings as the front, but no luck there. 7 Millimeter outer diameter bearings seem to be a special size, so just use the plastic bearings for now.

Also, it has a rear differential but that is locked up by a locking plate. I will 3D print a new plate that allows free movement.

Got the steering servo in place and working, so at least that's a plus.

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On 9/27/2024 at 7:25 AM, JimBear said:

You said ... what? RWD and 4WS? On an M-03?

That's indeed a flying teapot, sir! :D

 

On 9/27/2024 at 3:32 PM, Verskis said:

I think that needs it's own thread! (unless there already is one)

 

On 9/27/2024 at 4:21 PM, JimBear said:

Amen to that, @Verskis!

 

I believe I took a few photos when putting it and its rally sibling together. I'll see if I can dig them up and cobble together something that the mods will accept as a build thread. 👍

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Hi All,

since I discovered the Tamiya Quadtrack system, I am becoming a fan of it. But how to get those tracks w/o spending too much money on them? One idea was parting out a Tamiya 58704 kit, selling the chassis to regain some bucks.

Here's the victim:

GF-01_01.thumb.jpg.e37b062b82dcf4baeebd03402f69d241.jpg

The Idea was to build up the chassis to runnig condition and then find an interested buyer. But I came across some "show stoppers". First I tried a set of FMS Mashigan wheels and a set of TRX Bronco wheels. Just to find out that 120mm tire diameter is quite much to fit under the body w/o setting it to high. So I was looking for alternatives: Louise CR Griffin with 106mm diameter, experimentally mounted on some Toyota aluminum rims:

GF-01_02.thumb.jpg.ac2c4e135d4d7d16f5b675512600d959.jpg

 

Looks quite funny and not too bad. But I discovered that the center of the wheels doesn't line up with the center of the wheel wells:

GF-01_03.thumb.jpg.041793f2008b85256fc05fb479ffa0aa.jpg

 

That's a nasty surprise. I had the idea of turning around the suspension arms to get more wheelbase. What looked promising at first glance:

GF-01_04.thumb.jpg.2a9fb56f5b86a1b3ae915c409e9e26ab.jpg

 

But the downside is the angle of the dogbone of the rear axle:

GF-01_05.thumb.jpg.fba31d5c106b84aafe6b62ba4c88d60f.jpg

 

So, at this point I am out of other ideas. Why do they do that? Changing the body mounts would shift the misalignment to the front. By the way I wanted to avoid the wheels of the Tamiya 58589, since I don't like the look at a Land Cruiser body. Is the wheelbase of the 58589 differing from the 58704?

Any suggestions are welcome.

 

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On 9/27/2024 at 3:11 PM, NUFCRc said:

'Alfie' is ready for some fun on the tarmac. 

Tamiya TT02( I know they get some hate 🫣)

No hate for the TT02 here, they get the job done. If I'm really cranky I could ramble on about some of the aftermarket upgrades (which you've wisely avoided).

On my end I finally broke out the Bigfoot/Stampede. The foam-less tires and tiny pinion make for an interesting experience, it definitely looks better than a regular Stampede and drives closer to what I'd expect from a monster truck, even if its 2wd.

20240928_154921.jpg

20240928_153945.jpg

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Today, I finished up this little project for my scale garage:

Workshop 180

 

More details here:

 

 

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Haven’t touched anything rc since the start of the year I think, possibly end of last :(, so I picked up a bt01 to ease myself back into it.
IMG_2932.jpeg.83954699166f2e709f69cc87bb11d273.jpeg
Built it last week and was going to finally run it today, but rain prevented that. Instead decided to work on some of my many unfinished projects from last year. Started to put together an XV01 and quickly found I was missing a couple parts, so ordered those and went on to putting together a TC01 body I painted last summer.

IMG_2950.jpeg.21d917101267c8a21d9bfe02f6b56d60.jpeg

Almost done with stickers but seems I need to locate the driver and two missing wheels, hoping they’re with the other TC01 body I can’t seem to find either :lol:.

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10 hours ago, urban warrior said:

So, at this point I am out of other ideas. Why do they do that? Changing the body mounts would shift the misalignment to the front. By the way I wanted to avoid the wheels of the Tamiya 58589, since I don't like the look at a Land Cruiser body. Is the wheelbase of the 58589 differing from the 58704?

Any suggestions are welcome.

Looks like all GF-01 variants have the same wheelbase: https://tamiyabase.com/chassis/302-gf-01ft#all-gf-01-variants

What about keeping the LandCruiser body? (And put it on a M-chassis maybe?). And buying a VW bus short wheelbase shell and install on the chassis? :)

spacer.png

Or sell the chassis without a shell. Someone may be interested in upgrading its WR-02 to a GF-01...

 

 

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3 minutes ago, urban warrior said:

Why sad? Fried motor?

Ha no, my adult children think I'm sad for doing it despite the fact my daughter bought me the display cases. The rectangle case is perfect for batteries.........🙄

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2 hours ago, urban warrior said:

Why sad? Fried motor?

Nah, it is one of these "break the glass in case of emergency" things ... :D

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9 hours ago, Mouc-RC said:

 And buying a VW bus short wheelbase shell and install on the chassis? :)

spacer.png

Or sell the chassis without a shell. Someone may be interested in upgrading its WR-02 to a GF-01...

Man, that one! So great. :D It's one idea for my "Bodies to put on a WR-02" project ...

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@urban warrior - can't you move the body forward a bit (bending/moving the body posts)? It looks to me like the body is just a smidge too far back?

Those tyres/rims - what are those? Looks great!

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21 hours ago, urban warrior said:

Hi All,

since I discovered the Tamiya Quadtrack system, I am becoming a fan of it. But how to get those tracks w/o spending too much money on them? One idea was parting out a Tamiya 58704 kit, selling the chassis to regain some bucks.

Here's the victim:

GF-01_01.thumb.jpg.e37b062b82dcf4baeebd03402f69d241.jpg

The Idea was to build up the chassis to runnig condition and then find an interested buyer. But I came across some "show stoppers". First I tried a set of FMS Mashigan wheels and a set of TRX Bronco wheels. Just to find out that 120mm tire diameter is quite much to fit under the body w/o setting it to high. So I was looking for alternatives: Louise CR Griffin with 106mm diameter, experimentally mounted on some Toyota aluminum rims:

GF-01_02.thumb.jpg.ac2c4e135d4d7d16f5b675512600d959.jpg

 

Looks quite funny and not too bad. But I discovered that the center of the wheels doesn't line up with the center of the wheel wells:

GF-01_03.thumb.jpg.041793f2008b85256fc05fb479ffa0aa.jpg

 

That's a nasty surprise. I had the idea of turning around the suspension arms to get more wheelbase. What looked promising at first glance:

GF-01_04.thumb.jpg.2a9fb56f5b86a1b3ae915c409e9e26ab.jpg

 

But the downside is the angle of the dogbone of the rear axle:

GF-01_05.thumb.jpg.fba31d5c106b84aafe6b62ba4c88d60f.jpg

 

So, at this point I am out of other ideas. Why do they do that? Changing the body mounts would shift the misalignment to the front. By the way I wanted to avoid the wheels of the Tamiya 58589, since I don't like the look at a Land Cruiser body. Is the wheelbase of the 58589 differing from the 58704?

Any suggestions are welcome.

 

My suggestion is the Suzuki Jimny body if you can source one. The wheel wells line up better and the body seems to fit the personality of tracked vehicle better as it's more "square" as viewed from the top just like the chassis with tracks. I have searched high and low for a body that works and the Zuk is by far my favorite. 

 

All Photos - 1 of 1.jpeg

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40 minutes ago, JimBear said:

@urban warrior - can't you move the body forward a bit (bending/moving the body posts)? It looks to me like the body is just a smidge too far back?

Those tyres/rims - what are those? Looks great!

Actually, the front wheel well lines up quite perfectly, moving the body to the front by modifying the posts will move the misalignment to the front.

The tires are Louise CR Griffin 1.9 and the wheels are some I found by chance at eBay recently, if you mean the shiny ones (which where the last pairs). The other rim is some generic stuff from eBay too, casted metal bead locks.

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40 minutes ago, Rinskie said:

My suggestion is the Suzuki Jimny body if you can source one. The wheel wells line up better and the body seems to fit the personality of tracked vehicle better as it's more "square" as viewed from the top just like the chassis with tracks. I have searched high and low for a body that works and the Zuk is by far my favorite. 

 

All Photos - 1 of 1.jpeg

Well, that's a nice idea. My primary intention was to get the kit because of the tracks and sell the chassis. The more ideas are posted, the lesser I'm willing to let the chassis go. BTW, back in the late 80s I had a Suzuki SJ410:

SJ410.thumb.jpg.8ac3cfedea0992b0667ecbd31babc9d1.jpg

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No RC for me today. We went to look at houses today. My wife has PPMS so a bungalow is on the cards. 
This wasn’t one of them. It’s too far out for work and too expensive but I might have to check it out anyway.
Indoor track:

wm6preo.jpeg
 

Outdoor track:

MspRL1i.jpeg

 

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1 hour ago, urban warrior said:

Actually, the front wheel well lines up quite perfectly, moving the body to the front by modifying the posts will move the misalignment to the front.

Hmm ... typical - moving one thing moves something else ...

Thanks for the info on the tyres/rims. :)

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Went to run these today. But the grass was longer and wetter than anticipated, so didn't run all of them in the end or for very long. :(

 

 IMG_4977.thumb.jpeg.aa2ebb9d1c61a97a55a92c76501f08ef.jpeg

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On the quest to find some rally tyres for tarmac usable in the cold time of the year I made the first test with the MST LTX realistic rally tyres. It was a success. Now the car give confidence out of the corners again, like ut should. I tried Tamiya Racing Radials (with lowest possible expectations) earlier today and they were bad. Hard Rally blocks were better,  but they will wear out and they had not the sideways grip I wanted on the rear. The MST tyres were super. I can push pretty hard and the car waggles it's rear in a controllable manner, like I want it to.

 

Weather forecast was not so good,  so the old body had to do 

20240930_162647.jpg

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6 minutes ago, Andreas W said:

On the quest to find some rally tyres for tarmac usable in the cold time of the year I made the first test with the MST LTX realistic rally tyres. It was a success. Now the car give confidence out of the corners again, like ut should. I tried Tamiya Racing Radials (with lowest possible expectations) earlier today and they were bad. Hard Rally blocks were better,  but they will wear out and they had not the sideways grip I wanted on the rear. The MST tyres were super. I can push pretty hard and the car waggles it's rear in a controllable manner, like I want it to.

 

Weather forecast was not so good,  so the old body had to do 

20240930_162647.jpg

Looks like it’s seen it’s share of cold weather. Just need to add some fender rust from road salt. :)

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35 minutes ago, Hypoxic said:

Looks like it’s seen it’s share of cold weather. Just need to add some fender rust from road salt. :)

Hehe. That would be correct for a proper italiano ^_^. To be fully realistic it should also have blinken leds inside to immitate how the dash looks. Everyone having laid their hands on a Lancia Delta, Fiat Ritmo Abarth or Fiat UNO Turbo in not 3 or worse would know what I mean :D

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