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So, What Have You Done Today?

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Not exactly "today" but over the past Sep 28-29 weekend, kind of did a speedrun of building both the M-05 and M-06.

The M-05 is the M wheelbase to match the Mazda MX-5 Roadster/Miata. As it was my first time building this (both) chassis, it took roughly a full day to complete everything. Trimmed the body, but realized I trimmed off the back too high. Also, per the body instructions, I made the mounting holes through the back window, which was a massive pain and it obviously didn't come out great. After thinking about it some more, I realized I could have just swapped and flipped the rear posts and drilled holes through the rear trunk/bonnet where it would be flat and much easier. Just a few measurements and markings with a ruler and sharpie helped and it was a perfect fit. I guess this will be the "running body" for track days. I do have a spare body for shelf queen status so that will be done in the future.

The M-06 was built with the L wheelbase as it came with the Volkswagon Type 2 Van (which will take a separate weekend to complete). This one I was intrigued because the servo/steering rod slants diagonally downwards from the servo to the steering arms so I didn't think it would work that well, but when I got it to a running status, trimmed it all up, it can actually go straight with no slop at all. However, I'm not a big fan of the battery cover that needs to be oh so carefully removed as to not mess with the steering rod. I feel like that design could have been changed. Also, having the motor ALL the way at the back means that I had to put the esc as far back on the little tray as possible and bend the motor wires JUST to get them to connect. Just barely, but they're secure.

One other thing about the M-06 is that while the rear has a lot of toe in, the front has a lot of toe out and positive camber. Is that by design by Tamiya? Good think there's all these adjusters that can be lengthened/shortened to ensure uniform tire wear.

EDIT: Nevermind, figured it out. The adjusters were the correct length, but the gold springs needed to be moved to the front and the silver springs to the back. After making that swap, the chassis sits flat (previously the rear was lower than the front) and the camber has been significantly reduced to almost zero. Still drives straight.

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I went racing for the first time in a long while! 

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Had a great time, and was able to make it to the final race without too much fuss. Also had everybody love the GT and comment on how cool it was so that was fun. Looking forward to trying to get a gas truck class started at the club!

Heres some other cars somebody brought on the first day of practice! Didnt get to race against them though :/

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Nitro truggy Main:

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https://lensdump.com/i/nJWtKv

 

 

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A few buggies got a refresh. One for Alex and one for me. Alex approved. Then we raced them to see which was faster.IMG_2181.thumb.jpg.45db60940ae4a9f181fdaf4fcd420f80.jpg

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More soldering today. Almost halfway done moving all my 2S electronics from deans to XT60. These are just so much better, so glad I made the switch. 
 

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One of my mandates for this year as Fleet Manager (I'm also test pilot, chief engineer and CEO) was to end the electronics musical chair by sourcing and installing one motor, servo and ESC in each of my cars. 

So the Group C is finally getting a low profile servo 🙂 which is my old S9551. It fits with 1mm to spare and only for 280mm wheelbase. Now I can finally tune Ackerman by using shims between the servo saver and the ball nuts.

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@Andreas W you should hear that V12 sounds right behind you anytime now!!

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1 hour ago, Pylon80 said:

One of my mandates for this year as Fleet Manager (I'm also test pilot, chief engineer and CEO) was to end the electronics musical chair by sourcing and installing one motor, servo and ESC in each of my cars. 

So the Group C is finally getting a low profile servo 🙂 which is my old S9551. It fits with 1mm to spare and only for 280mm wheelbase. Now I can finally tune Ackerman by using shims between the servo saver and the ball nuts.

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@Andreas W you should hear that V12 sounds right behind you anytime now!!

I like it. Looking forward to see this in the ERBP again. Now further improvedB).

 

PS: I'm one of those not wearing earprotection while attending tractor pulling events or drag racing^_^. Still I can hear that screaming V12 from far, far away. 

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Good Evening @ All!

Maybe some of you remember when I was posting a picture of a completely "overgreased" gearbox of a Tamiya Super Sabre from 1987/1988 this February ... after a lot of cleaning the day of reassembly did finally arrive. My old friend and I were sitting together rebuilding his Super Sabre from when we were in our early twenties.

With some printouts from the old manual we started with the gearboxes

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My old friend Torsten totally focused on the frontaxle build

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We decided to go for aluminum knuckles instead of the original plastic ones.

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And after several hours "she" was standing on her own wheels. Maybe the tires are the wrong way around. 🤔 Anyway ... easily changeable.

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Resurrected after 36 years ... in Germany you got the legal entitlement to put a special license plate for historic vehicles on your car when it becomes 30 years old.

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Proud of a fine days work and in awareness of some final minor mods and adjustments we closed the todays "Workshop Thursday". The already done "hop ups" are complete ball bearings and stainless steel screws (where possible) and aluminum steering knuckles. We could re-use the chassis tub, gearboxes, driving hardware, dampers and body. Changed had to be wheels and tires, and the suspension arms. Next on the list is cleaning up the body and get it repainted. And putting in some electronics. Now I am thinking about getting a Hotshot so that we can do some "Heritage Rallye Races".

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The "easy" switch of a conked Axial (scx24) servo turned into a Thursday evening horror story with a bad ending, since my hope for the little Jeep to run was squished by an Emax servo that is way too strong for the original plastic servo holder, bending it out of shape and snapping the servo horn in the process. Not sure what would fit really, but thinking of the Samix servo holder. And a metal servo horn, just to be on the safe side.

 

 

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I took my new BBX that I finished building yesterday to the beach, after a few minutes of driving, and after and a jump the driveshaft came out of drivecup, so not so happy, it was inpossible to get it back in on the field ,without assembly the car, so I went home:(.

I don't know how it happened, I have a gear diff in mine and with full compresion of the shocks  you do not get them out of the drivecup.

So for now I am going to shim the driveshaft as far as I can in the drivecup, and put some  O rings on the shocks to limit the travel a bit, they have enough travel in them when the car is botteming out

The positives, the car drives great, tires are good and have a lot of grip on the beach and loose sand,  and it jumps good in a straight line it is nice balanced.

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First project I've done since building my XM-01 chassis, due to building a garden office and creating a new workshop space.

Is this sacrilege? I think the OG livery suits the car much better - plus the previous owner had already painted the bodyshell white, I had no choice really... :lol:

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Trusty tools; Tamiya decal scissors, a spray bottle of lukewarm water and Fairy liquid, my wife's old hairdryer... :D

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Done! Happy with how it turned out. Justock ESC / Brushless combo to go in this and then - god forbid - I'm actually going to run it!!!

Next project on the bench is to finish the aforementioned XM-01:

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Reassembled the DF02 and soldered some new wire onto the ESC. Also eliminated the power switch. Next will be shortening the servo and ESC leads, final soldering of the ESC and shock building.

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Took the Tyrrell P34 out for a run in the school playground! it’s been a while. Problem is zero grip from rear tyres though. I recently got a small lipo specifically for this model which means I can now run it occasionally, the original nicad is not great (this is a rere I bought in 2003)

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soft lipo in this packaging i made to hold it

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I found my missing tc01 wheels in a box of f201 parts and the driver/mirrors with my other unpainted tc01 body and parts inside of a Volvo fh12 box, not sure how they all got there but looks like I should probably do some organizing :lol:. Hopefully I’ll finish the TC01 tomorrow. Today I finally fixed my dual motor xv01, turns out the pinion screw on the front motor was missing and had to recalibrate the esc.

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Then I decided to give it a different body and wheels 

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and since I had both my supras sitting on my desk I figured I’d get a quick pic of them together 

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Well, after nearly two weeks of rain, the sun finally re-appeared. Did some "Stomping Around" in the Blackfoot, now with the mighty power of the vaunted Tamiya Torque Tuned motor.

BF11 BF12 BF14 BF13

 

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Took a trip out of town with some friends to skate this today. The moment we saw it I wished I'd bought some RC cars along

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Started building my TD4 Super Avante kit that's been lying around for two years now. Lots of fun so far.

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5 hours ago, Ferruz said:

Took a trip out of town with some friends to skate this today. The moment we saw it I wished I'd bought some RC cars along

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There's a new one a bit like this near where I live. I'll probably try, one of these days. I just wonder which chassis to take with. GF-01, WR-02 (Honda City?), a Monster Truck? Or the Street Rover...

Typical TamiyaClub answer is "take 'em all", isn't it? ;)

 

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59 minutes ago, Mouc-RC said:

There's a new one a bit like this near where I live. I'll probably try, one of these days. I just wonder which chassis to take with. GF-01, WR-02 (Honda City?), a Monster Truck? Or the Street Rover...

Typical TamiyaClub answer is "take 'em all", isn't it? ;)

 

I’d take the GF and a MT. 

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14 hours ago, Saito2 said:

 now with the mighty power of the vaunted Tamiya Torque Tuned motor.


 

How do you like the Torque Tuned motor? I’m curious how it behaves in the BF/MB chassis. 

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1 hour ago, ADRay1000 said:

How do you like the Torque Tuned motor? I’m curious how it behaves in the BF/MB chassis.

I like it. Its my usual go-to motor when I want to add just a little spice. Keep in mind, I'm very old school and still use Nimh packs. Things that are overly fast and uncontrollable aren't my jam. I very much like driving vintage design Tamiyas within their design limits and don't own anything faster than a Sport Tuned motor (aside from the HPI  Firebolts in some of my Clods). A Torque Tuned is cheap, pretty durable and never feels out of place in old Tamiyas. Hope that helps.

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Been off the forum for a while, been busy doing other things and have recently taken up astronomy as another hobby.

But today went on to Buyee and bagged an XV01 in very good condition for under £100. Comes with Toyota Gazoo body and many hopups, like alloy suspension mounts front and rear, carbon damper towers, front and rear stabilser bars and cvds (on the front at least). Comes with a parts box of spares and what looks like another gear box (maybe has a spool fitted?)

Was looking to get a rally car and this was £50 less than what I sold my TT02 lancia for. Yes, I'll be paying a bit for postage and may get hit for VAT, but still a good buy I think.

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No driving for me today but I finished the body and decals on my Novafox. 

Tamiya Novafox

 

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Been adaptive a Boomerang body for my Thunder Dragon. It's gonna look more like a Frog than the Hotshot style I intended for. It would look workds better than the Tesla Cybertruck I have had so far (sorry all Thunder Dragon fans^_^). 

 

The spoiler is gonna be attached via Egress wing mount.

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