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40 minutes ago, chris.alex said:

Today I also checked the front gearbox of my TD4. Lo and behold β€” everything was clean, not a single grain of sand! Now that the inspection is done, Paranoid Perry can drive this great buggy through the winter days a little more relaxed. 😌 

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Was Paranoid Perry rubbing off on you a bit then Chris?πŸ˜‰πŸ˜‚

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11 minutes ago, BuggyDad said:

For me, I defined the tool paths to cnc cut my Astute chassis*.

Awesome mate, sounds like some top quality work in the makingπŸ‘

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Changed 2 stickers on my ARRMA Mojave Grom, think the change looks outstanding thanks to @KalEl63Β for the stickers from MCI

Before:

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And after:

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During the last few days -and nights- I went through a few battery packs with the Big Boss, rejuvenated with the new dogbones.Β  It is now pulling wheelies again, just like it used to do over 30 years ago while I jumped in awe as a kid,Β  :)

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Feels good.

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P.S: I remember back then I had some fantastic radio/receiver gear, probably worth three times or more what I'm using now! It came with the car but sadly got lost in the sands of time.

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7 hours ago, Kol__ said:

Was Paranoid Perry rubbing off on you a bit then Chris?πŸ˜‰πŸ˜‚

Haha, yes, there might be some truth in that. πŸ€”

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11 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

Automotive clear lacquer from Halfords.Β 

Beat me to it. The only proviso is try and check it on a piece Β of the body that can’t be seen to make sure you don’t get a paint reaction. The Halfords stuff is generally inoffensive but you never know. Having said that in the past I have had paint reactions on multi layer paints and after letting it dry and lightly rubbing it looks even better. Very ratty!!

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Lacquer- check

Scourer- check.Β 

Thanks for the help and advice, chaps!Β 

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The QD lunchbox project continues....

Happy to do a dedicated thread if there is interest and post my edited 3D files.

I coated it all in satin black paint and I got very lucky with some headlights and light buckets that fit perfectly. I will add LEDs to this for sure.

I might do a chrome/steel grill too, as IΒ printed a spare. You can still see the print layers but not at any distance so that's fine with me. If they hold up well I might but the effort to print finer layers and really sand nicely, but zero point if they break in five mins!

I still need to 3D print a little more and attach it all up together but it is really working.

I am going to keep all black, maybe add a racing number/ decals etc. and do indicators and number plate.

I sanded the inside arches so the wheelbase looks a better match.

Ignore the negative rake, rear end propped up with masking tape so it is sagging.Β 

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Β 

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Finished my team associated/yokomo yz10 it took me about 4 weeks to complete because I’m not really feeling RC at the moment although once I’m wrenching I’m kinda still enjoying building! And I thought it’s such a quality kit and this is purely a queen of the shelf like the clear RC10 IΒ would do the same and keep the body clear so it would show the workings (belts for the 4wd and mid motor etc) the brushed alloy wheels bring it to life I think?Β 

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Got the revised 3d prints for my df01 2wd bitsa thing and thankfully it went together OK. It's now a complete chassis. Bit more work to do to get it running, but pleased with how it's coming together

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Β 

Β 

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Swapped motors on my A stamp RC10. Off goes the vintage hot Reedy Radon motor, in favour of the even more vintage Associated Stock motor that came with the car.

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Thankfully both motors are in very good condition, the Reedy one having been ran only once. I will enjoy the (g)oldenΒ RC10 with herΒ period correct horsepower, while the spirited Radon motor will be part of my upcoming Turbo Optima Eldorado build, given the shiny gold open endbell which fits perfectly with the color scheme I have in mind.

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Might be the vintage materials and all that, but I find the RC10 to be one of the most satisfying cars to work on.

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TF5

Went to a park yesterday. The forecast was for cold, yet clear skies the night before. It turned out to be bitter cold, cloudy and windy. The Top Force made about three laps before it began to snow. Enough of that nonsense. Packed it in and headed home.

Β 

Today was still pretty cold but I was determined to get a Javelin run in.

Jv1 Jv2 Jv3

They may not be quite as competent as the Mids, but I really dig how the old rear motor Optima series runs.

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Today I carried out some maintenance work on the Manta Ray and cleaned her up20241201-140658.jpg

Once done, I took the buggy out for a good spin. The first, thin layer of snow provided some extra fun while keeping the chassis' debris intake to a minimum.

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The outing was great, so I doubled down with the Mad Van shortly after. I appreciate how versatile this platform is, last time I drove it was on sand and now it's snow. Not a single problem so far thankfully.

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22 hours ago, NUFCRc said:

Lacquer- check

Scourer- check.Β 

Thanks for the help and advice, chaps!Β 

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Careful with that scourer, looks fairly vicious. I was thinking more likeΒ the green scotchbrite type. Go gently, may the force be with youπŸ˜‚

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I've set up a new power supply for my headlamp. It now works with one lithium cell instead of three NiMh cells. It lasts noticeably longer, is only half as heavy as the NiMh's and can be charged with my standard charger.Β 

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And since these lithium cells have protection electronics (BMS), I don't have to worry about any deep discharge.

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7 hours ago, Busdriver said:

Careful with that scourer, looks fairly vicious. I was thinking more likeΒ the green scotchbrite type. Go gently, may the force be with youπŸ˜‚

I was ever so gentle. It will be ready to clear coat by Wednesday. I hope it looks as good as I think it will.Β 

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This weekend was the first run of the TT-02 rally after a slow rebuild and upgrade. Still temporary electronics while I wait for the 10BL60 and a TBLM 21.5. So... what was supposed to be a simple basic car ended up with a good/fast servo, double-cardan joints and a brushless system πŸ™„ About the DCJ's, the best fit I found for a TT-02 is to use the M-05 verII part. They are nice and long and will take 7mm hexes anytime. There's no need for a thin bearing nor any Dremel work on the knuckles either, and the pivot point is perfectly centered with the barrel of the DCJ's 😎

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I love how it drives now that it sits higher than last year (15.5mm compared to 13mm). The weight bias is currently 50/50 but will be 55/45 with the new ESC on the bumper and a brass plate underneath, hopefully next weekend 🀞

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I completedΒ my TT02R rebuildΒ today. The only thing I have left is to tidy up the servo/speedo wires but I need to get a crimper first. I ended up stealing the 1060 out of my GF01 because it was black and just looks better. To that end, I cut off the power switch and soldered the leads together so that the car tuns on when plugged in.Β I also soldered the motor directly to the speed control because why not. Lastly,Β @Pylon80Β pointedΒ out the stock 27t pinion was a bit tall for stock motors so I ordered a 21, 22, and 23. I installed the 22 for testing. Smoke from the flux is filling his lungs, he's earning minimum wage

Β 

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@Rinskie looks like a Lightly Tuned motor on the picture 🧐 I used to run it with 68/23 if I recall correctly (postal/small running areas type of things).

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Today the TT-02 rally was back in the action πŸ˜€Β I had been missing this.

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15 hours ago, Pylon80 said:

About the DCJ's, the best fit I found for a TT-02 is to use the M-05 verII part. They are nice and long and will take 7mm hexes anytime. There's no need for a thin bearing nor any Dremel work on the knuckles either, and the pivot point is perfectly centered with the barrel of the DCJ's 😎

Β 

The M05 Ver. II part you are talking about is the 9804933 part from the 42300 set? And you combined it with a 39mm shaft?Β 

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Pushed the button on a TD2 from Time Tunnel motors for Β£145 (no esc).

I really wanted a Super Astute, but that's Β£95 more. Even the Hornet Evo is another Β£45.

Will build it stock, but probably not box art!

Not sure if I was into buggies, but now have a DF03, DB01, BBX and now this...

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