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Does the club need more member blogs...  

361 members have voted

  1. 1. Should we reintroduce this feature?

    • Yes - for anyone that wants one
      131
    • Yes - but only for a few that do 'interesting' stuff regularly
      69
    • No - the forum is enough
      70
  2. 2. If we do bring it back would you want one?

    • Yes
      126
    • No
      144
  3. 3. If you had one how often would you update it

    • Several times a day
      270

This poll is closed to new votes


Recommended Posts

Posted

I was so disappointed with the speed of my hpi  firebolt 15t in my re re optima even after moving up to a 28t pinion i threw in my reedy radon. Huge difference in speed and torque, the optima was pulling wheelies now. Only negative was i flipped it in the street and slightly chipped the rear shock tower with a little bend. So i ordered the carbon rear hock tower and the antirollbars since the optima definitely rolls alot. I read it makes a huge difference

Posted

Ordered a couple of MG996R servos from eBay. One or both will go in my Clodbuster - either one as a replacement for the MG996R that is in it that seems to have given up. Or I'll go for a servo on each axle using some 3D printed mounts that came the other day.

Also placed a Modelsport order for an Alturn High Speed servo and 2 Core RC micro receivers. The servo and 1 receiver will go in the RC10 when it arrives.

Still not decided on a motor for it.

Posted

Painted up the driver for my f103, I was totally at a loss for how to paint it until I came across some fluorescent blue and pink in my box of paints and then it hit me. I now have the Suicide Squad version of Harley Quinn driving my car lol. I'm actually pretty pleased with the end result considering it's less than a couple of hours work. 

 

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  • Like 2
Posted
21 hours ago, Motorworldmedia said:

Finishing up my original Vintage Nissan R91CP #58109 (not the re-release).  This car in particular was a challenge for several reasons...finding a Nissan R91CP original chassis with a original body kit isn't easy in the US.  I came across a original roller on ebay with a Tamiya 53106 RD Aluminum Finned Motor Mount Heat-sink already installed.  I performed a complete disassembly to clean and inspect before putting back into roller form.  The foam tires and wheels were worn out very badly from the previous original owner.   No rear wing stay mount, motor or electronics came with the car so sourcing those replacement parts took some time.  The body kit is a original Tamiya brown box from a long time Tamiya modeler he had stashed away which included a NIP set of black wheels, foam tires, driver cockpit and original Nissan R91CP decal sheet which includes the Good Year licensed decals for the side, front fenders, rear spoiler and foam tires.   I thought of doing a build thread but got side tracked trying to get to this point of the project.   :rolleyes:

I decided on the P-30 brilliant blue "Calsonic livery" over the P-4 darker blue per the instruction manual.  Both P-30 / P-4 blues look great on the R91CP.  I still have to install the motor, electronics and complete the rare factory group c driver cockpit.  By accident I installed the incorrect rear wing stay (this one is for the Mazda 787B). 

So technically this would be a partial unveiling of what I like to think is one of the top elite group c models (next to the Mazda 787B) produced by the Tamiya Factory.

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Very nice indeed.

 

A couple of questions - Does your windscreen wiper conform to the curve of the windscreen in that position? The reissue one doesn't fit nicely unless it's in the straight up position.

The front of your body sits a little low. Is that just because it's temporarily in place, or are you missing the clear plastic spacers? I ask because I have several spare if you need them.

Posted

Thanks Fuijo.  I forgot to put the clear spacers on for the photos so the body does need to come up in the front & thanks for the offer!  The wiper blades conform perfectly in this position per the instructions...I just took a double check...2 original & 2 re-release and all the wiper blades are 100%. (I have seen them on others with a curve up like you mentioned off the windshield in this position) 

You did a amazing job on your cars & cockpits...I hope my cockpit for this one comes out as nice as yours.

Posted
1 hour ago, Motorworldmedia said:

Thanks Fuijo.  I forgot to put the clear spacers on for the photos so the body does need to come up in the front & thanks for the offer!  The wiper blades conform perfectly in this position per the instructions...I just took a double check...2 original & 2 re-release and all the wiper blades are 100%. (I have seen them on others with a curve up like you mentioned off the windshield in this position) 

You did a amazing job on your cars & cockpits...I hope my cockpit for this one comes out as nice as yours.

Ah ok, thanks for that. It seems that I just got unlucky then. Four times (I have four shells). In that case I'm going to apply a little heat to one of them to see if I can coax it into a nicer shape.

Best of luck with the cockpit. I found it difficult to see exactly what was going on with the harness, it just looked like a random mass of lumps and bumps to me. I had to google for help.

But the rest of it wasn't too bad really. The only place I had to be careful, was where I used blu-tack to mask off the driver figure when painting the black areas. The blu-tack was more robust than the

ultra-thin moulding. So my breath was firmly held when peeling that off.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Fuijo said:

Ah ok, thanks for that. It seems that I just got unlucky then. Four times (I have four shells). In that case I'm going to apply a little heat to one of them to see if I can coax it into a nicer shape.

Best of luck with the cockpit. I found it difficult to see exactly what was going on with the harness, it just looked like a random mass of lumps and bumps to me. I had to google for help.

But the rest of it wasn't too bad really. The only place I had to be careful, was where I used blu-tack to mask off the driver figure when painting the black areas. The blu-tack was more robust than the

ultra-thin moulding. So my breath was firmly held when peeling that off.

The heat treatment should fix the issue on the wiper blade.  I've done a few of these group c cockpits for a Jaguar XJR-12 & Merc C-11 & run into the same issues with the harness belts around the torso.  If I had to do it all over again I would of used a different method approach when it comes to the helmets.

I took a F-1 approach with the driver helmets and tried to color match the suits with the accent colors of the car.  For the R91CP I'm going to stay box art traditional since I have 2 to complete and been putting it off forever because I don't want to screw them up.

  • Like 1
Posted

Longest build to date but apart from needing the blue centre post and servo stays ny TA04 is finished 😊

Can't resist carbon fibre and blue aluminium 😉

Probably my favourite Focus body too!

Need to update my showroom next

sven

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  • Like 5
Posted

Got my SWB WW standing on his own two feet now thanks to @Dojo Dave and @NameUnchanged and I cant forget to mention @TwistedxSlayer for helping me out with Shipping NameUnchanged to the US for me.... The body is still needing to be stripped, but man this thing is in great condition.... not a single crack in any of the tires not scratch, minus front bumper which is slight.

PS anyone have a SWB radio box cover????

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  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
21 hours ago, iluvmud said:

Got my SWB WW standing on his own two feet now thanks to @Dojo Dave and @NameUnchanged and I cant forget to mention @TwistedxSlayer for helping me out with Shipping NameUnchanged to the US for me.... The body is still needing to be stripped, but man this thing is in great condition.... not a single crack in any of the tires not scratch, minus front bumper which is slight.

PS anyone have a SWB radio box cover????

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Seems I had only one or two parts for a WW here, get me a measurement or some information on that radio lid and I will measure the one I got here. AND NO, it isn't wet, I didn't get flooded this trip.

Posted
6 minutes ago, Crash Cramer said:

Seems I had only one or two parts for a WW here, get me a measurement or some information on that radio lid and I will measure the one I got here. AND NO, it isn't wet, I didn't get flooded this trip.

HAH, glad youre ok bud.... but not sure about measurements but there are more holes in the SWB one.... as so.

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Posted
5 minutes ago, Jason1145 said:

Just purchased a Tamiya Dash 1 Emperor 1/10

Had no idea this car existed but it looks kooky and quirky!

Me neither. Just googled it and it's another shell to the thunder shot/dragon family :)

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Just discovered that the JunFac Chassis Skid plate doesn't fit a CC01 in LWB configuration :(

Needs extra spacers and some trimming of the plate to allow full articulation with the stroke extension kit. 

Posted

I took my Radio Shack extreme machine out for another bash but with an old Trinity D3 20t motor this time. I deliberated for a while between taking a lipo or an NIMH, I settled on a NIMH just in case it was a little volatile, I made the right decision! That's the fastest that truck has ever shifted unless was originally imported by plane.

I wouldn't normally put such a high turn brushed in a truck with such big wheels but as it has 8T pinions I thought it would probably be ok and while the motor got fairly hot it didn't seem to suffer at all. The 8T pinon gives great torque but having some decent speed from the high RPM motor was a nice addition.

The truck is currently RWD only because I managed to break one of the front drive cups through no fault of the vehicles. I dread to think what it would be like with 2 motors and running on lipo.

I'm just about to install some cheap oil shocks. The stock ones work pretty ok as far as friction shocks go when the truck is in stock form but because I've gutted the front gearbox and swapped the hard shell for lexan it's a lot lighter and the springs aren't really compressing any more which made for some hairy moments with that motor, it was fine on grass and dirt but on cratered tarmac it got a little bouncy to say the least. The oil shocks are adjustable and have softer springs so I should be able to make the truck stay in contact with the ground a bit better. It's especially an issue at the rear because it has a solid axle similar to the Lunchbox etc and although its designed slightly better and the suspension will actually work somewhat under power it needs to have feather soft springs for it to happen otherwise it will just act like it doesn't have suspension at all just like all the others. I may have a go at converting the rear end to 4 link at some point, that seems to work wonders for the lunchie.



 

Posted

Fitted a transmission brace to my lads Lunchbox. While I had it apart I replaced the little axle springs. One had broken and the other had lost all its spring.

Also put together some servo-on-axle mounts for my Clodbuster. Found them on Thingiverse and, with the help of a friend, got them printed. Don't have the servos for them yet so it was just a test assembly.

Posted
2 hours ago, nowinaminute said:

I'm just about to install some cheap oil shocks.

Hmm well that didn't go quite to plan. Typical that pretty much all the cheap stuff I buy from China works fine but when I buy a set of cheap shocks from a UK seller they are appalling, I'm talking sub absima grade! They have more play than an xbox, there's an impression of the screw threads on the INSIDE of the cylinder so the piston often grinds against it, they were filled with some weird gunk that was the consistency of hair gel and when I tried to put some decent oil in they leaked like a sieve! 

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In the end I drained them again and filled them with some thick sunflower oil, at least they don't leak as much now! The springs were too stiff for the rear too due to the weight all being unsprung but I had some Cen springs that are much softer and seem to do a better job.

Interestingly, I just read that the biggest reason this chassis isn't as bad for gearbox slap/lock up is that the front motor and gearbox cancels the effect out. And my truck doesn't even have a motor or gearbox in the front at the moment so I guess it's only going to get so good until I restore 4WD.

Oh well, all said and done, the front now articulates freely and independently like it should rather than the entire front end rising when either wheel goes over an obstacle. And the rear end is softer and damped so also an improvement over the stock shocks.

Just a shame these shocks are so appallingly bad. I have some piggyback ones on the way from Hobbyease, I know those ones are decent quality for the price so that will make me feel better about things.

Posted
43 minutes ago, Phil_H said:

Made a Ramp :) 

 

great video love the comedy benny hill type sounds when you build the ramp. mind i would re edit the video to remove the washing off the line  lol 

Posted
2 minutes ago, topforcein said:

great video love the comedy benny hill type sounds when you build the ramp. mind i would re edit the video to remove the washing off the line  lol 

haha...yeah, was a last minute decision to make a Video :) 

It's only my lads washing, not the old ladies undies :lol:

I did have the Gallery music from the old Tony Hart program, but got a copyright warning. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Replaced the steering servo in my Clodbuster.

Not a fun job! Half the car in pieces to get to the servo, hardly any room to take off ball connectors. Steering rods bend like they're made of warm chocolate.

All done though and I set all of the steering rods to the lengths in the manual. Hopefully that will help sort out the steering somewhat.

Also ordered a body and undertray for my Procat and an undertray for the RC10 that is on the way.

  • Like 1
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