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Does the club need more member blogs...  

361 members have voted

  1. 1. Should we reintroduce this feature?

    • Yes - for anyone that wants one
      131
    • Yes - but only for a few that do 'interesting' stuff regularly
      69
    • No - the forum is enough
      70
  2. 2. If we do bring it back would you want one?

    • Yes
      126
    • No
      144
  3. 3. If you had one how often would you update it

    • Several times a day
      270

This poll is closed to new votes


Recommended Posts

Posted
5 hours ago, unixphreak said:

Here is my fun for the next couple of weeks, waiting on a bearing set and a shipment of half a Gallop from a gent on RCTech.net to provide the needed rear roll cage due to this one being broken. This will sit on the shelf it is complete and the gears are near virgin along with the tires. Percymon was kind enough to part with a Progress so it will be my 4WDS vintage racer/runner and that will get posted on its own thread along with my Gallop MK I. Glad the two are of the COX variant since i don't think many were sold in comparison to the Scorpion chassis line.

WP_20180119_16_35_05_Pro.jpg

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Seems you might want to ask SubaruBratJunkie if he happens to have any parts to spare for these oddball cars he seems to have a few of.

Posted
10 hours ago, Effigy3 said:

I sold a DT-03T to a guy I work with.  It suddenly just stopped working this past weekend.  He's been asking me troubleshooting questions all week and finally, he brought the whole thing in so I could take a look.  As it turns out the TBLE-02S ESC is dead.  Like dead, dead.  No lights, nothing.  Which is unusual for this ESC.  They generally quite robust so long as they don't get soaked.  But sure enough, I plugged in a spare I have in my bits box and it worked like a champ.  I'm going to bypass the switch tonight to see if that's the issue. 

Since his motor is a Leopard 21.5T sensored brushless, he's going to order up a HobbyWing QuicRun 10BL210 ESC to replace it.  At least the new ESC will give him a proper low voltage cut off for the LiPo battery he's running.

QUICRUN_10BL120.png?v=1507160954

That 120amp ESC seems a bargain at that price. Have you tried them and are they any good?

Posted
10 minutes ago, Jason1145 said:

Some amateur tyre decals applied with some clear nail varnish borrowed from the Mrs.... I say borrowed.... stolen is more apt.

zOHjLGc.jpg

Is it really your nail varnish??

Are they Michelin Eagle tyres!?😉

Posted
1 hour ago, svenb said:

Is it really your nail varnish??

Are they Michelin Eagle tyres!?😉

NOW it is my nail varnish ;)

I believe they are a hybrid tyre, Tamiya Eagle rofl. It may not be correct but the cockpit driver doesn’t even have a gearstick so I’m not realistic at all.

  • Haha 2
Posted
12 minutes ago, Jason1145 said:

NOW it is my nail varnish ;)

I believe they are a hybrid tyre, Tamiya Eagle rofl. It may not be correct but the cockpit driver doesn’t even have a gearstick so I’m not realistic at all.

Must be an auto👍

Posted
8 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

That 120amp ESC seems a bargain at that price. Have you tried them and are they any good?

Not this exact one, no.  I have a couple Quicrun brushed 1060s and a 1080.  A lot of the guys at the track swear by the XERUN series.  The Justock is particularly popular in the 17.5T 2WD buggy class. Once my buddy gets his I'm going to install it for him and I'll report back on my impressions.

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, Effigy3 said:

Not this exact one, no.  I have a couple Quicrun brushed 1060s and a 1080.  A lot of the guys at the track swear by the XERUN series.  The Justock is particularly popular in the 17.5T 2WD buggy class. Once my buddy gets his I'm going to install it for him and I'll report back on my impressions.

At my club there is an Orion dealer, so half the people seem to run top shelf orion gear for 17.5T blinky. I don't fully understand why, my trackstar powered cars clear the double and also lose traction with the others so not sure how a tiny improvement from a $300 ESC will make anyone faster.

Hobbywing seem to cater  for everyone,  they have their top line XR10 as well which are popular at the onroad club.

Posted

Balance lead was a fire hazard and nearly none existant on one of my very old hardcase lipos, so pulled it apart and soldered on a new one.

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

Finally took the Sand Scorcher down to the beach for it's first run. I expected it to drive crappy because of it's old design, but it was a ton of fun! Took the Holiday Buggy DT-02 down as well, but the Scorcher was more fun. The RC4WD Sand Thrasher tires kept it from being able to do donuts due to the deep paddles. The Scorcher would let loose. Son and I had fun, but ****, it took sooo long to clean the sand afterward :)

  • Like 1
Posted
8 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

At my club there is an Orion dealer, so half the people seem to run top shelf orion gear for 17.5T blinky. I don't fully understand why, my trackstar powered cars clear the double and also lose traction with the others so not sure how a tiny improvement from a $300 ESC will make anyone faster.

Hobbywing seem to cater  for everyone,  they have their top line XR10 as well which are popular at the onroad club.

I tried racing with a TBLE-02S in my TRF 201.  It was smooth but I didn't realize how "mushy" it was until I tried a Novak Impact.  The difference in punch was immediately noticeable, which surprised me TBH.  That Impact lasted all of one race day.  I returned it and exchanged it for an LRP Spin Pro.  That's not even a race ESC but I couldn't tell the difference between it and the Novak.  When I built my TRF 211 I used a Speed Passion Reventon Pro 1.1 EX.  It doesn't feel any different than the Novak or the LRP but it sure does have a lot of options!

At my track, Tekin and HobbyWing are probably the most popular brand ESC.  I'm one of the few running a Speed Passion.

Posted
1 hour ago, Effigy3 said:

I tried racing with a TBLE-02S in my TRF 201.  It was smooth but I didn't realize how "mushy" it was until I tried a Novak Impact.  The difference in punch was immediately noticeable, which surprised me TBH.  That Impact lasted all of one race day.  I returned it and exchanged it for an LRP Spin Pro.  That's not even a race ESC but I couldn't tell the difference between it and the Novak.  When I built my TRF 211 I used a Speed Passion Reventon Pro 1.1 EX.  It doesn't feel any different than the Novak or the LRP but it sure does have a lot of options!

At my track, Tekin and HobbyWing are probably the most popular brand ESC.  I'm one of the few running a Speed Passion.

I have heard that the TBLE-02S isnt the best. I still run them in all of my bashers though. I don't believe there is a huge difference between most of the race type esc though, regardless of brand or whether its their mid or top of the line model.

I have found the Speed Passion esc really good, I have the same as you in my onroad cars. My cars are as fast as the fast guys cars, just wish I was as fast as the fast guys!

  • Like 1
Posted

Ordered a large brushless motor combo from china for the tnx and a few other bits even tough I said it will have to wait as on a budget :rolleyes:

  • Like 1
Posted

Sprainted the flatbed on my CW-01 Unimog with Tamiya PS-5 Black.

 

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And learned that dust gets everywhere making it look like it was pebble dashed. Then I coated it with Tamiya PS-55 Flat Clear and the dust under the gloss goat sort of blended into the matt finish.

IMG_20180121_142421.jpg

Not very happy with the bleed that got under the masking tape. I really couldn't have avoided it as as I neraly took the skin off my fingertips trying to make the seal as tight as possible. I used proppa' model maskin' tape an' all! :(

  • Like 4
Posted

The Grasshopper2 Super G I bought to base Project Ultra G around turned out to be a bit of a pup. Serve me right for lusting after fluoro wheels.

Completely cleaned, stripped and rebuild the vintage CVAs with new seals top and bottom and 10wt oil. By the look of them they never have had oil in them and the guy must have run them dry with no seals! Work smoothly now so once I have the final couple of bits sorted I can sell it in good conscience. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I wired up some LED lights on my son's Axial Deadbolt.

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This is the Axial AX24257 "Simple LED Controller".  A Tamiya TLU-01 it's not.  Cheap, it is.

01.21.2018-11.59.png

While I was in the Rx box plugging this bad boy in, I also dropped in a Rudedog RP-0104 Glitch Buster capacitor.  It was small enough that it fit inside the Rx box.  Nice and tidy.  I had it in my bits box and figured "What the heck."  Maybe it'll help him out if he gets caught up on something and tries to servo wiggle himself out.  I plugged it into the BATT port on the Rx. The LEDs are plugged into CH3.  Maybe his transmitters CH3 switch will turn them on/off...

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

The Grasshopper2 Super G I bought to base Project Ultra G around turned out to be a bit of a pup. Serve me right for lusting after fluoro wheels.

Completely cleaned, stripped and rebuild the vintage CVAs with new seals top and bottom and 10wt oil. By the look of them they never have had oil in them and the guy must have run them dry with no seals! Work smoothly now so once I have the final couple of bits sorted I can sell it in good conscience. 

As a mate and I discovered yesterday on another forum, the Super G was intended to be built with no oil or seals in the shocks. While oil and seals are both possible with the stock mouldings and no doubt a good idea from a handling perspective, if you fancy keeping it original, they go together dry.

  • Like 2
Posted
Just now, TurnipJF said:

As a mate and I discovered yesterday on another forum, the Super G was intended to be built with no oil or seals in the shocks. While oil and seals are both possible with the stock mouldings and no doubt a good idea from a handling perspective, if you fancy keeping it original, they go together dry.

I had read some Super G variants came with friction shocks but I understood the original European release on the yellow wheels had oil filled shocks. Certainly it simply took top and bottom seals to get them sorted. This won't original for sale anyway. I am keeping the fluoro wheels and new shell for Ultra G. The rest isn't exactly pristine so 12mm hex convertors, spare astral dish wheels and a non- box art repaint and decal with paint and stickers I have in stock should get me a presentable runner to sell on.

Posted
22 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

As a mate and I discovered yesterday on another forum, the Super G was intended to be built with no oil or seals in the shocks. While oil and seals are both possible with the stock mouldings and no doubt a good idea from a handling perspective, if you fancy keeping it original, they go together dry.

Did you find out why? It seems strange to supply CVAs but then not use them. Is the bkdy too light for example so no oil is better, or was it saving the $1 of oil?

  • Like 2
Posted

I had a weekend with quite a bitmof RC action. Had friends over on saturday afternoon so ended up running 4 cars around the backyard track for about an hour. Its amazing how kids can land jumps at right angles to the ramp and then run the wrong way across the track. It did show that tye track is big enough for amfun afternoon if you can get 4 cars per race. Then same again on Sunday, but that was only 3 cars running. The Monster beetle diff needs sorting, it is very noisy now so i need to look into that.

Also shimmed the TA07, just one corner needed it. I found when insoecting for binding in the drivetrain that 3 corners were perfect but one needed about .7mm of play removed. No idea how I got one corner so wrong, but its fixed now.

And finally I repleaced rear diffs in then TT02B. The DF02 diff slows them down too much on stock motors, so I will just have to keep a supply of stock diffs to keep replacing them. The ball diff is an option but I can have 8 standard diffs for the price of 1 ball diff so not sure that its worth it. The main problem is the people driving them, they are loaners so if they could back off thw throttle when they land a jump or crash they would be fine, but its amazing how many people can't drive rc cars

  • Like 2
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