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So, What Have You Done Today?

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1 hour ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

Its all part of the plan, if I've costed it down to an $11 tool then surely I've been thorough right? When really I have no idea about what the others will cost like the starter box and I hear people talk about glow plugs or something

Actually this was a surprise, I came back from the committee meeting and talked about the event and the chancellor said it sounded cool and i should do it. Then this week I reminded her about it and talked about servos and do I go cheap or expensive etc, and then ordered it all today at $500 more than original "discussion" about it. Something is up...

Sounds like your re-election plan might take a dent if the press get wind of this budget overspend. Atleast with all this spending it’s not totally gone go the wind, there is always some resale value retained in these purchases so keep thinking of that. 

Last month I splurged two months worth of fun budget in one go, I knew the consequences of it st the time but this ‘dry’ month is pretty depressing now lol... I will try to not look at the postman thread for a couple weeks and weather the ️, I’ve enough stuff to keep me busy.

With your 3 different vehicle meets you must need tons of prepping, now you can add on a speed run attempt too!

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2 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

Sounds like your re-election plan might take a dent if the press get wind of this budget overspend. Atleast with all this spending it’s not totally gone go the wind, there is always some resale value retained in these purchases so keep thinking of that. 

Last month I splurged two months worth of fun budget in one go, I knew the consequences of it st the time but this ‘dry’ month is pretty depressing now lol... I will try to not look at the postman thread for a couple weeks and weather the ️, I’ve enough stuff to keep me busy.

With your 3 different vehicle meets you must need tons of prepping, now you can add on a speed run attempt too!

Funnily enough thats my thinking with most of it, the resale if I don't like nitro. I will get most/all of my money back from the servos and engine. The new kit vs 2nd hand is the big cost but to me its worth the extra $400 - $500 for the build day and having a new kit which will be more reliable, but I accept that is money lost.

I don't have a budget as such, its more about what is necessary/reasonable. So this will cost a huge amount but flew through the finance committee, but a $300 Top Force will get blocked for no other reason than I have a bunch of cars and i can't give a reason other than 2 very valid reasons which are "look at it, its so pretty!" and "but I want it".

I really need to give a speed run a go but need to rope in a friend to help and they are all busy with kids and families and stuff. I have attempted a couple but couldn't get the video, and I have a new gps watch which will help (wonder what strava will make of it!)

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13 hours ago, Effigy3 said:

Good luck with your surveillance.

thanks very much it ain't the first time i've had one fitted before. arr the joys of getting old 

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So since today my XB Suzuki Swift arrived, and after my wife went to work, after a beer and unboxing it, I already had to put in work. Nothing seriouse,  but work.

 

 

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Painted an inspection cap for the Striker.... I wanted it slightly off centre honest.

kokbvyj.jpg

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@Jason1145you were spot on with the 3mm hex driver comment. I don't need to pay for the other order til the end of next month, so ordered the 3mm hex driver today so they are in different months...and the uncosted rx and shock pliers so that $11 hex driver actually cost $168. Added some tamiya masking sheets to the order while I was at it. Since my last body I have bought an xacto knife and masking sheets so the next one will be perfect. Except I won't need another as I also bought shoe goo and fibreglass tape so my new rough one will last forever!

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Went over my cars after the day running at the track on Saturday. DB01R has yet another melted ball diff (although only slightly this time so I am improving) but I have had enough. Going to shelf it for a bit and get the gear diff when I have a bit of spare cash.

Ultra G's diff action is also virtually non-existent too but as that has a Thunder Dragon diff of somewhat indeterminate origin I suspect a new set of diff gears and my spare casing and it'll be right.

DN01 is a bit noisy so needs a strip and clean but does still actually work. I lost one of the battery hold down knob/screw thingys. Anyone know what the proper name is for these and if I can buy them separately so where? 

Grasshopper(DT0)3 is all good as is the Thunder Dragon. Spent some time comparing it to the DB01R to see if I can figure out why it's so edgy to drive. My 3D printed shock tower that clears the body with twin shocks leaves the front shocks much more upright than the rears, which is the opposite of all the other buggy setups I have. Going to try the original kit setup again to see if angling them right over gives a softer front end. Some other things to think about too.

 

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4 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

DN01 is a bit noisy so needs a strip and clean but does still actually work. I lost one of the battery hold down knob/screw thingys. Anyone know what the proper name is for these and if I can buy them separately so where? 

Actually when I got my DN01 they were the first thing I got rid of: I replaced them with TB05 Mount Screws (Tamiya 19805886) and body clips.

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wire clamp instaled on my f103, and gave my new suzuki the final touch regarding decals. :)

 

Also on my f103 all details, like servo, esc, motor, clamo are red. But none of the red is visible on the outside while the body is on. Blue body blue details, and when you lift the body, there is the red, like,blood running through the veins. Haha I think I did good.

 

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7 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Went over my cars after the day running at the track on Saturday. DB01R has yet another melted ball diff (although only slightly this time so I am improving) but I have had enough. Going to shelf it for a bit and get the gear diff when I have a bit of spare cash.

Ultra G's diff action is also virtually non-existent too but as that has a Thunder Dragon diff of somewhat indeterminate origin I suspect a new set of diff gears and my spare casing and it'll be right.

DN01 is a bit noisy so needs a strip and clean but does still actually work. I lost one of the battery hold down knob/screw thingys. Anyone know what the proper name is for these and if I can buy them separately so where? 

Grasshopper(DT0)3 is all good as is the Thunder Dragon. Spent some time comparing it to the DB01R to see if I can figure out why it's so edgy to drive. My 3D printed shock tower that clears the body with twin shocks leaves the front shocks much more upright than the rears, which is the opposite of all the other buggy setups I have. Going to try the original kit setup again to see if angling them right over gives a softer front end. Some other things to think about too.

 

If you cant find the plastic battery twist nuts Exotek sells the battery screw downs in blue aluminum for the dn01. I used them because i got their carbon fiber battery cover on clearance for $2 going back. I think they were $4-5. I also purchased their slipper eliminator that i never used. 

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1 hour ago, Rb4276 said:

If you cant find the plastic battery twist nuts Exotek sells the battery screw downs in blue aluminum for the dn01. I used them because i got their carbon fiber battery cover on clearance for $2 going back. I think they were $4-5. I also purchased their slipper eliminator that i never used. 

Thanks. At least I know what they are called now! Exotek doesn't seem easy to get over here and I quite like the idea of the body clip option so I am going to get some TA05 parts as recommended above.

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On 7/14/2018 at 1:58 PM, pininfarina said:

 My riders decided to form a biker band instead, while waiting for their bikes!

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They look like they need to smoke.  "Just get us a pack of cigarettes, man."   

 

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2 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Thanks. At least I know what they are called now! Exotek doesn't seem easy to get over here and I quite like the idea of the body clip option so I am going to get some TA05 parts as recommended above.

You'll need to put an up to 3mm spacer under each mount screw, depending on your battery size.

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Made a deal for a NIB Super Astute. Will get it in about 4 weeks time 🙂

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4 hours ago, Badcrumble said:

Step 13 of the Asterion build

Blue shiny!

I was looking at the underside of mine this morning, and one of the rear arms seems to have more toe in that the other. I'm wondering if I've bent the stock plastic rear suspension mount. Did you go for Tamiya metal ones?

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1 hour ago, jupitertwo said:

Blue shiny!

I was looking at the underside of mine this morning, and one of the rear arms seems to have more toe in that the other. I'm wondering if I've bent the stock plastic rear suspension mount. Did you go for Tamiya metal ones?

Oh dear. 

I went for the metal ones for the rear too, from RCMart. According to the manual, the toe in / out can be adjusted with suspension arm spacers (not worked out quite how though) but if you need a replacement plastic part, let me know - I should have them going spare!

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45 minutes ago, Badcrumble said:

Oh dear. 

I went for the metal ones for the rear too, from RCMart. According to the manual, the toe in / out can be adjusted with suspension arm spacers (not worked out quite how though) but if you need a replacement plastic part, let me know - I should have them going spare!

Thanks :) I've had the rear end apart, and so far nothing looks out place, bent or missing (including spacers). Next try will be to see if the arm itself is bent. It's only a few degrees, but it's there. I'll have to check I got them the right way round too, sneaky ******s.

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31 minutes ago, jupitertwo said:

Thanks :) I've had the rear end apart, and so far nothing looks out place, bent or missing (including spacers). Next try will be to see if the arm itself is bent. It's only a few degrees, but it's there. I'll have to check I got them the right way round too, sneaky ******s.

I saw that the manual says the arms are reversible and to be careful! Do you move the NN27 to adjust toe-in?

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30 minutes ago, Badcrumble said:

I saw that the manual says the arms are reversible and to be careful! Do you move the NN27 to adjust toe-in?

Everything seems to be the right way round. I haven't adjusted the toe in on NN27, that's still in the centre position.

Not the greatest photo, but the left (as you look at it in the photo) arm seems to be off by a degree or two.

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While searching for my Honda City turbo box that I've been looking for a couple of months I finally found it and came across these behind the box I ain't seen these in a long time so I thought I would plug it in and to my surprise it came on. 

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29 minutes ago, jupitertwo said:

Everything seems to be the right way round. I haven't adjusted the toe in on NN27, that's still in the centre position.

Not the greatest photo, but the left (as you look at it in the photo) arm seems to be off by a degree or two.

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If the arms seem OK, is there any slop at the hub? Any shims required?

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