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Yesterday I finished the storage crate I plan on mounting on my Defender roof rack.  Weathering is pretty much done, and I added some decals to it to give it a little more character. 

top coat before weathering

46620766025_cb597f6252_c.jpgUntitled by Joe, on Flickr

done

46620767775_3a3bac7643_c.jpgUntitled by Joe, on Flickr

33667817028_71d15b3365_c.jpgUntitled by Joe, on Flickr

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I got sidetracked from paint prep by the possibility of an ORV Unimog.

ORV Unimog

 

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@78Triumph that box looks great.

I went to the sale of an RC collection today. It was pretty much all onroad and from 10 - 20 years ago. I was very tempted by a mint TRF418 roller for $250, they are a few generations old now but would still be a good racer in stock toruing.

Jamie came with me and I had a vague idea of getting him a F1 and ended up coming away with a F103 Mclaren which is in very nice condition. It looks like it was built and never run. I need to add some photos to see if anyone can identify which variant it is as there are so many different versions of the F103. Jamie's school is a 5min walk so we can go and run the F1 cars after school, that will teach him throttle control like nothing else.

I just wish I had thought to ask if they had any single oil dampers as thats the only thing I would change on it and I bet they cost heaps to buy a new single one

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Received a second Trackstar Gen II 120A esc for my 21.5t car, did some dyno runs and collected some data:
7tK8F7f.png


Ignore the wiggles (and power spiking back up, lol) in the plots near the max rpm for each run, this is an artifact of me backing off the throttle before the rpm maxxed out fully and became constant, and because I'm doing some curve fitting because the rpm data is a bit noisy. I expected less torque down low when the timing was wound up. Instead, there is almost the same torque down low and significantly more rpm and a bit higher maximum power. This should pick up a decent increase in top speed without sacrificing acceleration.

Another thing to consider here is that we do expect the dyno runs to be the same at very low rpm because I'm using the ESC's boost function to try to add a static amount of timing. I set the boost start rpm to minimum values; start 1000rpm end 3000rpm; so even in the '30*' run the ESC is starting at 0* then ramping up to 30* between 1000 and 3000rpm then holding 30* from there. I'm not actually sure what the bell timing is on the motor because the Trackstar software was bugging out on me trying to measure the bell timing, I would hazard a guess that it is 25-30*, so perhaps the actual timing at the motor is more like 30*, 40* and 60*. Maybe the effect of higher torque at low timing/rpm would be more dramatic if I used a motor with an adjustable bell that can go down to 0* and did the dyno runs by rotating the bell and keeping the ESC in blinky mode. I think I want to try a Trackstar 21.5t V2 for curiosity's sake, just have to wait for them to come back in stock :). 

The green traces were with the ESC programmed to boost = 30*, start rpm = 1000, end rpm = 10000. This gets more or less the same power curve as 'constant' 30* boost but it's going to run much more efficiently and cooler when the motor is operating below 10000rpm. Next step is to run the car and see how hot it gets driving around with those settings.

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@nbTMM There's a great article by @qatmix on thercracer.com about current draw vs heat. The crux of it is that you want to adjust the timing to get as close to 6 amps draw as possible, as after that the power and revs go up, but current draw (therefore run time) drastically reduces and heat really increases. Do you have an ammeter to run across the battery terminals to overlay current draw on your graphs? 

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Could do, just need to hook up a current clamp to the second channel of my scope.

I burnt half a pack bashing on the 30*/1000rpm/10000rpm settings and the motor can hit about 60c, top speed 36kmh. Then I tried 40*/1000rpm/12500rpm for a few minutes and got 41kmh, then 45*/1000rpm/13500rpm for a few minutes which got 42kmh then the ESC went into over temperature protection for the motor (85C) and the can was ~70C. I feel peak power must be in the 30-40* range but 45* went fastest because I'm gear ratio limited, not peak power limited.

I'll have to change the spur/pinion to dyno >30* because the rpm goes way up and the speed that the acrylic flywheels rotate makes me uneasy.

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Picked up a Subaru Brat from a hobby shop in Brisbane today. It’s such a nicer experience than clicking on pictures online to handle the goods as soon as a transaction is made. Experience tells us that something you have had you’re eye on will sell a week before you get there so I phoned last week and got them to put it aside for me 👍🏻  Now the only problem is I have to decide how I’m going to paint 2 bodies. Well actually 3 as I got a spare Buggy Champ body to while I was there. 😁 

Happy Days 👍🏻

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Built the CC01 tonight.  Had to also order a few screws that the Unimog kit doesn't come with to fit the Bronco body.

d8Dr11T.jpg

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9 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

I just wish I had thought to ask if they had any single oil dampers as thats the only thing I would change on it and I bet they cost heaps to buy a new single one

The stock plastic friction damper is not a thing of beauty to be sure, but with a smear of AW grease on the shaft it actually works rather well.

I have three F103s in my fleet - one with the stock plastic damper, one with a 53155 alloy damper and one with a 58431 TRF damper. Maybe it is just that my driving isn't refined enough, but I can't really tell much difference between them in terms of damper performance. 

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9 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

Picked up a Subaru Brat from a hobby shop in Brisbane today. It’s such a nicer experience than clicking on pictures online to handle the goods as soon as a transaction is made. Experience tells us that something you have had you’re eye on will sell a week before you get there so I phoned last week and got them to put it aside for me 👍🏻  Now the only problem is I have to decide how I’m going to paint 2 bodies. Well actually 3 as I got a spare Buggy Champ body to while I was there. 😁 

Happy Days 👍🏻

Hope you do a build thread on the Brat, you'll have great fun painting 3 bodies, what colours are the two Brats going to be? ( I'm about to download that manual to check out body post locations and parts compared to the BF)

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7 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

The stock plastic friction damper is not a thing of beauty to be sure, but with a smear of AW grease on the shaft it actually works rather well.

I have three F103s in my fleet - one with the stock plastic damper, one with a 53155 alloy damper and one with a 58431 TRF damper. Maybe it is just that my driving isn't refined enough, but I can't really tell much difference between them in terms of damper performance. 

I suspected as much, and it will make no difference to Jamie. 53155 comes in purple though, it matches the motor mount...

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53155 is more of a pinkish purple, a bit lighter than the motor mount. It won't match, but it shouldn't look too out of place either.

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I made some Bigfoot decals on the computer for my TXT-2 build and got them cut out with the help of a friend, who has a vinyl cutter. They look brilliant! I'm going with the Bigfoot 18 scheme.

And yesterday I got a pair of Alturn Ultra High Torque servos. Just waiting on a new Hobbywing 880 Dual brushed esc and some paint. Need to get some more bearings on order too!

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Just ordered a full set of TXT-1 bearings for the TXT-2. So should have a few spares for future builds...Yay!

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Discovered the famous Tamiya hex wrench has a very handy use...

LpYTNzf.jpg

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Went racing today, 10th offroad. There was a pretty small turnout so we got an extra round of qualifiers in and it made it a really relaxed day. Jamie's car was playing up after the 1st round. I was trying to calibrate ESC again and then saw a strange grey wire wrapped around the driveshaft, oops, thats the aerial, now detached from the rx. Luckily I knew someone who had just switched from Futaba to Sanwa so managed to buy a secondhand rx of him. Jamie missed a race as it took a while to sort out. 

Still struggling for traction with my Ultima, but after @ThunderDragonCyexplained the difference between 3 gear and 4 gear gearboxes i'm changing mine to 4 gear. I asked around and a few people are running the 4 gear and say it makes a difference. Hopefully this will sort out my lack of traction. The Lazer was flawless, that car is so fun to drive, especially when compared to going im circles in thr Ultima.

Also got the new F1 going. My Boomerang doesn't go anymore, it donated its speedo and rx. I need a new Futaba rx so we can run both F1s together, I will hopefully get that in 2 weeks at the next race meet.

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Trimmed and drilled the Unimog body today.  I tried the 96mm tyres on the Unimog wheels and I think I prefer them more this way.  I'll look at getting some 90mm ones for the Bronco.

z3yvBOC.jpg

I can't decide upon a paint scheme for the Unimog.  Orange, green, blue, red, yellow.  I'll have to think about it while sanding the edges down.

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1 hour ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

i'm changing mine to 4 gear. I asked around and a few people are running the 4 gear and say it makes a difference.

Trial and error. I swapped the KF2 to ,low grip set up, as that was what meant to be the best, and it was horrible, just too much understeer for my liking.

Does the 4 gear swap the motor side, or do you need to swap the motor rotation with the esc?

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8 minutes ago, Wooders28 said:

Trial and error. I swapped the KF2 to ,low grip set up, as that was what meant to be the best, and it was horrible, just too much understeer for my liking.

Does the 4 gear swap the motor side, or do you need to swap the motor rotation with the esc?

Good point, I assumed it swaps the motor side but need to check that. I need the lower grip setup as I am fishtailing down the straights at the moment!

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28 minutes ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

Good point, I assumed it swaps the motor side but need to check that. I need the lower grip setup as I am fishtailing down the straights at the moment!

Once the weights shifted, it'll handle different, so may need to look into a brass bulkhead to get the steering back.

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41 minutes ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

Good point, I assumed it swaps the motor side but need to check that. I need the lower grip setup as I am fishtailing down the straights at the moment!

It does swap the motor side. Plate will move from right to left side. 

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1 hour ago, Blista said:

 

z3yvBOC.jpg

I can't decide upon a paint scheme for the Unimog.  Orange, green, blue, red, yellow.  I'll have to think about it while sanding the edges down.

Being the ultimate German all work no play Wertarbeit Ubermaschine, it requires a joyless, serious, industrial-agricultural complex, highly engineered, lest-they-think-we're-wealthy, nature-is-not-something-to-be-enjoyed type of paint. Like grey. Solid, greenish-grey grey. 

That, or a bright orange "very-hard-official-work-being-undertaken-for-the-public-good" city council uniform type of paint job. Just not too bright, since hard work is not meant to be fun, ok? Technically bright without being visually invigorating, that's what a Unimog paint job needs to be. 

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9 minutes ago, S-PCS said:

Being the ultimate German all work no play Wertarbeit Ubermaschine, it requires a joyless, serious, industrial-agricultural complex, highly engineered, lest-they-think-we're-wealthy, nature-is-not-something-to-be-enjoyed type of paint. Like grey. Solid, greenish-grey grey. 

That, or a bright orange "very-hard-official-work-being-undertaken-for-the-public-good" city council uniform type of paint job. Just not too bright, since hard work is not meant to be fun, ok? Technically bright without being visually invigorating, that's what a Unimog paint job needs to be. 

That's precisely what I've been thinking.  I'm leaning towards pastel grey with the rear tray in silver.

I have to admit that part of me wants to paint it purple though.  Even Unimogs need to be happy some times.

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12 hours ago, Bromley said:

Just ordered a full set of TXT-1 bearings for the TXT-2. So should have a few spares for future builds...Yay!

What’s missing from the kit? Do you need to order rubber or metal shielded? I’ll need to get mine for the summer. Also going for the Bigfoot 18 scheme after watching the record jump with the boy.

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