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Maiden run with my YJ, everything seems to be working properly, did not loose any bit. Still learning and it was awesome :)

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Finally got round to fitting proper Tamiya shocks on my Top Force. Had Schumacher on before, these are nicer.

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After 5 months sitting in a box my sand scorcher rebuild is done, I wanted to put a new kamtec lexan rough rider body on it ,because the beetle body was mounted to much to the front and the rear wheels  hit the fenders on full compression, but with not a lot of time these days and 4 other project builds to be done I deceded to chop of the fenders for now and replace the body if this one is toast.

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Busy afternoon! New shocks on the Top Force plus replacement carbon front shock mount that I totalled last week!

Here's the pair together 

 

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Finished 2 rough and ready braces and the e clip arm hinge pins for the terra scorcher. Got the back rebuilt with new gearbox halves. Waiting for a little more 303 rod to make one last pin then i can do the front.

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Met up with a couple of mates at my local model shop and spent the day building a drivers stand. Need some finishing touches, but overall looking good. Then proceeded to break my TT-02. Thankfully I got a loaner Hornet and raced against two Wild Ones!

 

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Extreme pallet art !

 

 

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Finished building my Losi 22 2.0. The instructions were pretty easy, I heard other brands were difficult. I've never built a TRF kit, so it's not an apples to apples comparison.

Time to paint the body and wire up the motor. Flysky GT3B and tires should be here next week. Can't wait to give it a run to see how "race" buggies drive compared to my vintage ones ;)

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Masking day today.  Probably the least fun part of any build so I did two at once: the S13 Silvia and Unimog.  And now that I look at the photo I realise I've missed a bit I was going to do on the Unimog.  Almost ran out of tape today and tomorrow I'll be using a half empty PS paint can without a backup.  Living dangerously.  ;)

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1 hour ago, Blista said:

Almost ran out of tape today and tomorrow I'll be using a half empty PS paint can without a backup.

Nerves of steel right there :o

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I got lucky last night 😉

Picked up a rere Blitzer from eBay for less than the one I missed out on last Sunday.

Just needs a clean and radio gear to run it. 

Very happy 😊

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Fitted tyre decals to the BuggyRa Fat Fox.... these suit the taller sidewalls very well

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Then mounted the freshly painted Clod wheels into their tyres... that's a workout for sure!

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Drove the Turnigy SCT and after 10 minutes lost a dog bone when a screw came loose holding the rear camberlink letting the rear wheel angle out... too much of this caused it.. good fun though

 

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Started my bashing body for the Egress. Fluorescent pink seemed 90's enough. Got a Schumacher wing turning up next week, that'll be white....

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Finished the Easter BigEgg build. For 33 years, I've been decidedly undecided about the Bigwig. Do I like it? Do I not like it? 

Well, today I finally found out. It's a beautiful buggy, once you build it for yourself, but - there's a but

So it's a Hot Shot family car, the one that was meant to overcome all the inherent Hot Shot weaknesses, right? Like not having an equal shock-to-wheel ratio, ridiculous bump steer, huge turning circle, you name it. 

Maybe I'd gotten my expectations up too high, but (and here's that but mentioned earlier) somehow it seems like all upgrading efforts went into the elaborate rack-and-pinion assembly - which, after it was finished, was then half heartedly stuck onto the new Bigwig chassis tub. And it still bump steers to a degree, despite or because of the weird tie rod angle. 

Maybe I just don't get it. Why is this steering system built around a free floating servo? What's with all the sponge tape? Why is the servo being held in place only by the ESC mount, which is only screwed down on one side? I mean I understand that different sized servos had to be taken into account, but this, this is just sloppy. 

And while I'm at it, what do they expect me to do with the Rx? Tape it down onto thin air? I guess the electronics layout must have been different on the original release, but this is just a non-solution.

And the two rubber O-rings in the front inner drive cup setup... It just doesn't work like that. Seriously, you can't expect anyone to run the car like that. It binds up the front suspension to the point where the steering is effectively locked out. 

But what gets to me the most... why no ESC? To keep the kit price down? When every other re-re buggy in the last 10 years that came with a motor also came with an ESC? 

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4 hours ago, S-PCS said:

two rubber O-rings in the front inner drive cup setup... It just doesn't work like that. Seriously, you can't expect anyone to run the car like that. It binds up

Yeah, I've seen somebody running like that.  There are few Tamiya cars with that problem.  I realized that Tamiya instructions aren't some religious texts, so I learned to be flexible.  You can use one O-ring, or the pink sponge thing Tamiya sells.  Whatever could remove the slop and still not bind.  I made mini springs out of a ball-point pen and put them in.  

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The way Tamiya did the servo is weird, indeed.  No bolt or anything!  Maybe Tamiya instruction missed out the double-sided tape under the servo?  I thought I was supposed to put double sided tape under the servo supporter thingies, attaching them to the chassis.  Tamiya instructions are known to miss things once in a while.  But even if you don't use the double sided tape under the B1 and B7 columns, the neck is secured by the C7 collar.  B1 and B7 columns are there so the servo wouldn't twist up and down.  

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I was concerned about the strength of one piece of double-sided tape under the small footprint of B1 and B7.  I was going to use the ultra strong 5 pound red tape. (Seriously, that stuff might keep a bowling ball attached to the side of a chimney in a stormy day.)  But amazingly, even with the regular double-sided tape, the servo worked fine in a parking lot run.  The servo would be really secure because of the tapes top and bottom of the servo.  I didn't use the cover for now... 

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ESCs and RXs are so small these days, there is plenty of room also.  ECO20 ESC uses the bottom casing as a heatsink. So, instead of using a piece of double-sided tape, I used two screws and a zip tie to keep it in place.  I also cut a square piece from the flexible yellow sprue, and screwed it so the wire won't touch the rotating shaft.  That's one screw for the cover, and the other one is securing the ESC by hooking a ziptie, in my case.   

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Original Bigwig ran an MSC with BEC so there's room in there for the second servo too. Everything needed to be tidied out if the way to close the chassis top plate.

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Went racing, on Easter Sunday. I was on the fence since you know, easter, family stuff. But ,y wofe asked my son what his favourite thing is and he said "to go racing" and I wasn't there to encourage him, so we went racing. It was an 8th day and his car is in bits so he ran my Lazer. Which is now in bits. It must've been close to breaking already, but anyway, new c hubs ordered.

Being easter sunday it was a quiet day, only 30 nitro buggies. So they ran 30min mains for everyone, so I had my longest race ever, 30min. Concentration started going at the 25min mark, but it was so much fun. That's basically a 10th day racing 2 cars in 1 race. Started 6th, finished 5th, happy with that. Thats the C main of course, but I think thats my 3rd nitro race meet, I opened my second bottle of fuel.

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5 hours ago, Juggular said:

You can use one O-ring, or the pink sponge thing Tamiya sells.  Whatever could remove the slop and still not bind.  I made mini springs out of a ball-point pen and put them in. 

I just took out one of the O-rings on each side, that kind of solves the problem. Ideally, I would have removed 0.75 o-rings, but... yeah, it'll do for shelf duty. The only times I've ever lost drive shafts on HS family cars is when I broke control arms, in which case no amount of o-rings would have helped anyway. 

5 hours ago, Juggular said:

The way Tamiya did the servo is weird, indeed.  No bolt or anything!  Maybe Tamiya instruction missed out the double-sided tape under the servo?  I thought I was supposed to put double sided tape under the servo supporter thingies, attaching them to the chassis.  Tamiya instructions are known to miss things once in a while.  But even if you don't use the double sided tape under the B1 and B7 columns, the neck is secured by the C7 collar.  B1 and B7 columns are there so the servo wouldn't twist up and down.  

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I thought about taping the servo down, but it just seems like the servo is supposed to float by design... Why else would you be instructed to grease the contact patch between C7 and the tub? And between tub and rack-and-pinion cover, for that matter? I can see the point, it's just that on left turns, all that's holding the servo down is the yellow esc mount, which is not really attached to anything on its left side. 

could use 3M Super Strength automotive tape, the stuff used to stick body moldings and emblems to 1:1 cars (easily strong enough to tape the bowling ball directly to the storm, skipping the chimney, so to speak), but then again, I just don't know. It'll work in any case, I mean even standard taped servos work, see the SRBs, kind of. You just can't call it an engineering solution if it relies on sticky tape. For a 1986 race-engineered top of the line buggy, it really leaves a lot to be desired. 

5 hours ago, Juggular said:

 

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ESCs and RXs are so small these days, there is plenty of room also.

No problem there, unless you really wanted to stick to the instructions. 

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I think I'll do a HS car suspension and drive shaft slop comparison today. 

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First day of painting down.  Three days to go.  Am I the only one who keeps a list of what to paint on which days?  I'm paranoid I'll do something out of order or forget something.

Only minor stuff today on the M06 Silvia.  I feel a bit nervous about painting the Unimog tomorrow.  I'm going for something a bit different and I'm not sure if it will suit it.

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11 hours ago, S-PCS said:

No problem there, unless you really wanted to stick to the instructions. 

Yes, Bigwig instruction is definitely odd.  

The other thing that I deviated is the grease on the collar (C7).  Why grease the contact point with the chassis? It's bolted. I didn't grease where they indicated.  I greased on the inside, on the red part below (though the neck of the gear is already greased).  

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Over the years, I came to see these oddities as "Tamiya easter eggs."  I wonder if we discover all the eggs, we get to own the controlling stocks of Tamiya, maybe?  

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Got the Magura hydraulic brakes working on the FG Monster ,age did a number on a connector and it leaked brake fluid ( or.. whatever the blue stuff is they call it )

cleaned up a lot of 2 stroke gunk out of .. well.. all places..    26cc of fuel power is fun.. but , got to stop to , preferable fast. 

While i was busy with it anyway, modified the C hubs a bit ( see, you roll in it straight away :) ) to remove some play that was annoying , now at a dead-stop on the FG's

as i can't test any of the radio gear due lack of battery's .. * any *

Ordered battery's .. ( ****, i love that brexit btw.. nice pricing.. can't get them shipped from a dutch store for that price ;p ) after needing help in another topic

to get up to speed on "battery's ,  a decade later" 

 

Oh , and dug up a landrover body , what seems to fit .. nearly ( ! ) on a FG ..   * smells a FG Landrover Monster coming * .. 

At this moment waiting on a message back , to pick up a monitor to get my old "gear" pc running again.. ( charger and nomadio radio set ).

That thing just refuses to work with a modern pc. 

 

Still can't find some other vital gear.. what .. i should still have.. requiring more digging ! 

 

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38 minutes ago, Juggular said:

Over the years, I came to see these oddities as "Tamiya easter eggs."  I wonder if we discover all the eggs, we get to own the controlling stocks of Tamiya, maybe?  

That, or if you put them all together in kit number order, you'll discover they form a hidden master manual that shows you how to build an unknown master model out of individual parts taken from each of the known models. 

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Got some CC01 action today with a few mates.

 

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