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Fixed the broken steering knuckle on my Lazer, and also found the universal is bent. Jamie ran this car at 60% EPA for 2 races on a proper track, did a proper job on it. Straightened the shaft in the vice so its less bad, checked and its US11.99 for a new one from Amain which is better than USD46.49 for new universals.

He has run his HB D413 for months now without a problem, just goes to show how bullerproof HB cars are!

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16 hours ago, Effigy3 said:

Can you record a short video and post it so we can hear the noise?  The motor type will change the sound tone the car makes while driving, but it should never sound like "grinding".  Excessive noise can be caused by using the wrong pitch pinion gear, improper gear mesh, debris stuck in the drive train, and as I learned the hard way, the pinion grub screw interferes with the spur gear if you aren't careful.

Sensorless brushless motors are known for cogging at low speeds.  The poorer ones will cog sooner/worse than the better ones.  A sensored motor should eliminate the cogging effect.  That's the whole point of the sensor!  If you are in fact experiencing cogging with a sensored brushless it may be an el cheapo motor (the TBLE-02S ESC is quite smooth) or it may be a defective motor.

I would recommend NOT driving it with an obvious flaw in the drive train.

Thank you for your reply, I checked the car again today, I found the problem it was the yeah racing aluminum motor mount, whitout the gear cover the mesh looks fine but with the cover on I think the mesh pinion and spur is to loose, I put on the stock plastic tamiya motor mount and the problem is gone, no more grinding niose and sounds like the where marbles in the gearbox.

So do not buy this motor mount its junk.

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Took my TXT-2 out for a run with my boys and their cars. First run for it since I fitted a larger pinion (21t if I remember correctly).

Last time out I ran it with a 19t pinion and NiMH, take off was quite lovely and it would easily get up on the back wheels.

This time, I hoped the larger pinion would calm the take off and raise the top speed. But this time I ran 2S LiPo.

Well, giving full beans from take off will flip it on its roof! So I had to start steady. Was good for a while then inexplicably it would suddenly slow down, then stop.

I didn't think I'd been running long enough to reach the low voltage cutoff (set to 3.4v), so I had to resort to the ESC manual. Turns out it was hitting a temperature limit. ESC didn't feel hot though. Motor was warm but not untouchable.

Wondering now if the 10BL120 ESC isn't quite up to the job in this setup.

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28 minutes ago, Peter_B said:

Took my TXT-2 out for a run with my boys and their cars. First run for it since I fitted a larger pinion (21t if I remember correctly).

Last time out I ran it with a 19t pinion and NiMH, take off was quite lovely and it would easily get up on the back wheels.

This time, I hoped the larger pinion would calm the take off and raise the top speed. But this time I ran 2S LiPo.

Well, giving full beans from take off will flip it on its roof! So I had to start steady. Was good for a while then inexplicably it would suddenly slow down, then stop.

I didn't think I'd been running long enough to reach the low voltage cutoff (set to 3.4v), so I had to resort to the ESC manual. Turns out it was hitting a temperature limit. ESC didn't feel hot though. Motor was warm but not untouchable.

Wondering now if the 10BL120 ESC isn't quite up to the job in this setup.

I think you have your lipo voktage alarm set a little high. The 10bl120 seems quite conservative, or maybe it goes into limp mode when the voltage dips due to a big draw rather than steady voltage level. I have mine set at 3.0 and even when i run it to the cut off when i get the battery on the charger there will be rarely less than 3.5v per cell. 

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8 hours ago, dannymulder said:

Thank you for your reply, I checked the car again today, I found the problem it was the yeah racing aluminum motor mount, whitout the gear cover the mesh looks fine but with the cover on I think the mesh pinion and spur is to loose, I put on the stock plastic tamiya motor mount and the problem is gone, no more grinding niose and sounds like the where marbles in the gearbox.

So do not buy this motor mount its junk.

IMG_7165.JPG

Use the Tamiya aluminum motor mount instead. No grinding nor noise problems and more pinion option too.

 

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33 minutes ago, Nicadraus said:

Use the Tamiya aluminum motor mount instead. No grinding nor noise problems and more pinion option too.

 

I have seen the Tamiya aluminum motor mount it looks nice, but for now I think the plastic stock one is fine.

I bought the aluminum one to act as a heatsink, but the brushless motor never gets warm, after 30 minutes of driving the motor was  still cold and its not a high power brushless motor its a 21.5 turn 1740kv motor.

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Ran the Boomerwig in the sunshine today after soeting the new ESC and lighter oil in the rear shocks. Its such a nice runner. Really enjoying it. Unfortunately broke the vintage wing mount with a couple of flips. Hardly surprising! Wonder if there is a metal version available? Some better pics of the decals in the daylight

Tamiya Boomerang 'Boomerwig' Conversion by CTE RC Tamiya Boomerang 'Boomerwig' Conversion by CTE RC

 

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3 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

I think you have your lipo voktage alarm set a little high. The 10bl120 seems quite conservative, or maybe it goes into limp mode when the voltage dips due to a big draw rather than steady voltage level. I have mine set at 3.0 and even when i run it to the cut off when i get the battery on the charger there will be rarely less than 3.5v per cell. 

Yes it probably is high - that was my first thought when it started acting up.

That's why I reached for the manual - to check what happened in a low voltage situation.

But according to the manual, low voltage is indicated by slowing down and stopping with a flashing red led.

I had the slowing down and stopping but with a flashing green led. According to the manual these are the symptoms of a thermal shutdown.

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15 minutes ago, Peter_B said:

Yes it probably is high - that was my first thought when it started acting up.

That's why I reached for the manual - to check what happened in a low voltage situation.

But according to the manual, low voltage is indicated by slowing down and stopping with a flashing red led.

I had the slowing down and stopping but with a flashing green led. According to the manual these are the symptoms of a thermal shutdown.

Hmmm. Does sound odd.

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About two weeks ago my daughter married and moved out of our house permanently.  She and her husband grabbed a few things from her bedroom at our house a few days ago and gave us approval to do whatever we wanted with the rest of her stuff.  After spending days removing clothes, toys, books, furniture, and other things she didn't want, we finally had a clean room.  I am happy to say that most items found new homes -- quite a bit went to the local Goodwill charity, the used bookstore, and a local care center for young children.  My wife and I decided to turn her former bedroom into a storage room for our hobbies, mostly my RC stuff and her sewing/quilting stuff.  We spent a good portion of the day today building shelving units and moving items onto them.  We still need to move quite a bit of fabric, and there are some opportunities to de-clutter other parts of the house, but it just feels good to see some order coming out of the RC chaos for now.

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@speedy_w_beans Nice! Are all those NIB or have some of them been built and stored in the boxes? Could i politely request a "full Speedy" TRF801X brushless conversion build please? 🙏

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On 5/28/2019 at 5:44 AM, J@mes said:

The ‘mog got a run today. Much better with rubber bands on the wheels to stop the tyres slipping. Salt water is not kind to the hardware & there’s a few screw pins that have rusted, not good especially on white nylon.

Mog

 

I dobbed a bit of Penetrol rust treatment on my SRB chassis screw heads when they started to show some corrosion and has turned them black again with no further rusting. 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/the-flood-company-300g-penetrol-spraycan_p1560172

I'm sure there a re many other variants of rust treatments. I remember my Dad always swore by Trustan 23.

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3 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

@speedy_w_beans Nice! Are all those NIB or have some of them been built and stored in the boxes? Could i politely request a "full Speedy" TRF801X brushless conversion build please? 🙏

@ThunderDragonCy Those are NIBs; I've been collecting for the past 9 years.  They'll keep me busy through retirement.  I've slowed down purchasing quite a bit especially with new MAP pricing.  The built models are in my showroom (here).

As for the 801X build, I'll eventually do one, but in the meantime I do have a brushless 801XT build already (here).

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Thats an impressive collection @speedy_w_beans, you must be looking forward to retirement.

Put the deck on the racing sparrow today, its looking a lot more like a boat now. There isn't all that much left to do, fibreglass the deck, fit the keel, do a final tidy-up/sand/prime and then make the rig. It should be ready by summer...should...

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3 hours ago, speedy_w_beans said:

@ThunderDragonCy Those are NIBs; I've been collecting for the past 9 years.  They'll keep me busy through retirement.  I've slowed down purchasing quite a bit especially with new MAP pricing.  The built models are in my showroom (here).

As for the 801X build, I'll eventually do one, but in the meantime I do have a brushless 801XT build already (here).

Thanjs for the link. I shall enjoy reading that later 

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dSMyufj.jpg

Brushless test number two, broken servo saver! Brakes werent set anywhere near strong enough.

I see many broken parts in its future.

However, glued diff is working well, still open, but stiff. Reinforced tyres dont balloon, rear wheels are true and it accelerates straight, just wont steer at the same time 😂.

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Prime time today,

KEtnNPkl.jpg

While being watched by a Wallaby through the fence,

vsbhNubl.jpg

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Went racing, 10th electric offroad day today, and my sons 6th birthday. He had a great day since he asked the club president to announce his birthday at drivers briefing, which of course happened, and he took a cake which he shared with everyone. I had mixed results, the Lazer is pretty much on its way out as it didn't finish its 2nd race meet in a row. The car is 3 years old and was the car i learnt on so it has seen more than its fair share of cartwheels. I suspect that I will be breaking stuff most meets since its fatigued from abuse. Conveniently theres a great deal on a HB D418 and my birthday coinciding, so hopefully that is here for the next race meet. The Ultima was brilliant though, until the tyres unglued themselves and I got beaten by a 9yo. That'll teach me for gluing on the day and not having rubber bands with me.

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Well my nothing to lose body shell is really making my mind tick.

The broken front wings are off and the engine lid/cowl has gone, Dremel for the front wings and a hot knife for the back end.

I’ve also taken out the door quarter lights, next I’m going to try and shave the rear wings, then I’ll see how I feel about the running boards.

The roof had been heavily broken and repaired and it has 2 more splits in front as well as the front body post damage so you can see why I have nothing to lose on this 👍

It’s all quite clumsy but I’m enjoying myself all the same.

 

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today I finished my cc-01 build, I only had to finish the body, so now its ready for a nice run in the forest.

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In truth ? done lots of stuff today :)

( mostly as it was my first long weekend / free time since December. )

Got the Leopard 2A6 working,  not only that.. as i found some shiny parts.. figured, to celebrate the fact 

it worked again , it would be a terrible waist not to install those metal tracks and alloy front runner wheel.

Why keep it boxed !   

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That, and could not resist messing around with the Phantom 1 ..  Like a big bug in the sky ;p

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Installed the Hobbywing software on my laptop then connected up the new program box and updated it's firmware.

Then I was disappointed to find that, in order to update the ESC firmware I need to connect a battery to it. Trouble is, currently the ESC has no connectors on it.

Can't be bothered getting the soldering stuff out tonight so have given up for now.

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52 minutes ago, Truck Norris said:

Finished this Taisan GT2 with more detail than I've ever done. Took forever! :o

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=133708&id=43050

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This is absolutely incredible. First I though the car on the picture is the original race car and for me it's hard to find evidence that it is not. Maybe the wheel nuts... And to know this is a Lexan body shell makes it even harder to believe. Superb!:wub:

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