Jump to content
Badboy

So, What Have You Done Today?

Does the club need more member blogs...  

361 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Made some shelving in my “hobby shed/man cave” so my empty kit boxes have somewhere decent to live 

48508887071_01b18f2b9a_k.jpg

  • Like 17

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Last week I broke a plastic suspension link om my mst-mtx1, I know they sell a aluminum hopup suspension link set but that is 55 euro, I had a spare plastic link set,  when I looked at the plastic link I noticed that it was hollow inside through the whole link.

So instead of buying the aluminum link set, I bought 1 meter of m3 thread rod for 2 euro and cut that on the right lengt of the links and screwed it throught the link, so now the have a metal thread inside of them, I did that with al of the 8 suspension links.

I changed the metal center drive shafts back to the stock plastic ones, I did not like the metal hopup driveshafst, they get hot and the grup screws that holds the pins get loose  every time I drive it, even with red treadlock and after 5 packs they have a lot of wear and a broke a pin on 1 of them.

I never have run the plastic driveshafts, I wil see of they wil hold up, if not I think I buy erevo driveshafts and cut them trough lenght.

IMG_7195.JPG

IMG_7196.JPG

IMG_7197.JPG

IMG_7198.JPG

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, nowinaminute said:

Made a start on my "Mad Bull Fighter" but I'm getting sleepy now so I'm leaving it before I try to solder an ESC to the shock absorber or something.

The tyres and uprights from my cheapy ebay mad bull find were all good though so I've got my £12 worth. Rear wheels have some slight warping but I've run worse, especially on rigs like this! I'm just glad there's no cracks in the tyres and they haven't gone stiff or anything.

JS0v4Ke.jpg

I'll do the servo linkage mod tomorrow probably.

Just took her out for a run, it did not disappoint. It was everything people say a Mad Bull will be!

Understeer, bump steer, front wheels that wobble around and collapse so badly in reverse that you can hardly believe what you're seeing when it actually works "properly" going forward.

But despite all the directional instability, it's actually very stable in terms of staying upright which is great and although the rear suspension still visibly stiffens up as soon as you hit the throttle, it does work a little better than the Hopper/Hornet/Lunch box design and perhaps most importantly, although the overall effect is still somewhat bumpy, the side to side articulation clearly works to some extent evenon the throttle.

The only really criticism is one that everyone has experienced, because it retains the buggy gearing the motor gets very hot, especially with a lipo. That's an area I'd like to address but I don't want to sacrifice any top speed so either a modest brushless or perhaps a slower brushed motor but running 3s to get the RPM back up which in theory would be more efficient and not run as hot.

I have a load of old plane and drill motors I've been meaning to experiment with so I might give that a go. Got some beautiful old Overlander Hurricane 650 plane motors, lovely old chunks of metal. And a few old 12v and 18v drill motors that might be fun to try out.

I love it so far though, it's one of my favourite kinds of RC where it wobbles around like a jelly but is still somehow controllable and stable. The DT03 damper set helps to give it a little composure but doesn't really change the personality of it.

I can see me putting a lot of miles on this before winter comes.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Blew a motor (I think) on an Egress, had the steering assembly fall apart on a Top Force and broke a C hub on a Cougar. Good day.

On the plus side, burning out the motor on the Egress means I can go brushless. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Managed to get some rc time this evening. 

1/2 a pack each on my Super Astute and Top Force in the back garden. I thought the TF was going to win that battle, but I really enjoyed the Super Astute. Lighter and mor poised, though a lot more grip roll. If it carries on like this, I might have to treat it to some hop ups :)

cut’n’washed a 934 body ready to be sprayed green a la

porsche-16-preview-744x421.jpg?l.r=-7785

not thought about wheels yet, I’ll see how much I like the green when it’s done first!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hooked up my electronics and rigged up a temporary [tiny] battery in the cockpit of Willy's Rocker so I could finally test drive it this afternoon!

i-RHqQb92-XL.jpg

Jx

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

my trend of very little rc time continues, but I did manage to set up a cheap chinese laser cutter I'd bought about 6 weeks ago. Although the software is terrible, it does the job, and was easy enough to work out. The manual is even worse though! Its 60W and looks like its actually a 60W laser with matching power supply. With this I should be able to cut up to 700 x 500 mm. While this is for work, I do have a few RC related projects in mind. In particular, laser cutting car badges from a material called Romark (Romark is a brand name). Its a 2 colour layer, thin plastic, used primarily from engraved signs. I have a chrome/black sheet that I should be able to laser cut into the car badges you use to see on cars in the 70s and 80s.

laser-cutter-3.jpg

 

Yes, its cutting in mirror, haven't found the setting to stop that yet 

laser-cutter-4.jpg

 

some 6 mm acrylic

laser-cutter-2.jpg

and just better make sure I keep these cuts to a minimum :o

laser-cutter-1.jpg

 

  • Like 11

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got a little closer to "finishing" the Hotshot. I decided to add a little yellow to mix things up!

rZMRQAj.jpg

I just need to find the strength to swap the other two wheels over and the courage to paint the driver.

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Helped my cousin build this one. Originally a TT02D (drift kit with full ball bearing) but he wanted a rally car so I converted it. I modified the rear suspension arm to create more droop. Installed some 55mm aluminum dampers which I have as spares. Replaced the plastic center shaft and cups to aluminum and hex hubs too. Will eventually replace the plastic steering to aluminum and a few other parts too to improve the car's handling.

Ride height stands at 2.4cm (front and rear) with load.

IKLugBSh.jpg

EcKM9qBh.jpg

cKOfjo8h.jpg

nA81TI3h.jpg

Fe5XtKDh.jpg

aQei2Fgh.jpg

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Worked on my M05 a little bit today...  ;)

Edit:  I've seen more showroom entries with cars in scale garages lately; the scale garages based on printed photos sometimes really trick me for a second or two.  Today I photographed my real garage, photographed my M05 in the garage with the same lighting, and then did some scaling/positioning to see what sort of effect I could get.

IMG_4116_mod.JPG

  • Like 10
  • Confused 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, speedy_w_beans said:

Today I photographed my real garage, photographed my M05 in the garage with the same lighting, and then did some scaling/positioning to see what sort of effect I could get.

Fooled me enough to zoom in, then read the post! 👍

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/12/2019 at 1:20 PM, yogi-bear said:

 I have a chrome/black sheet...

Cutting light reflecting material is no good idear with laser cutter. Even carbon fiber (yes, fiberglas is reflecting light -> hurray to quick internet!) doesn´t work well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Collin said:

Cutting light reflecting material is no good idear with laser cutter. Even carbon fiber (yes, fiberglas is reflecting light -> hurray to quick internet!) doesn´t work well.

true, but what I have is design for a laser, it's made by romark and called Romark LaserMax Brushed Silver/Black. 

This stuff, https://rowmark.com.au/collections/lasermax/colour_brushed-silver

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What's better than having three TT02 chassis? Four, of course.
EUmX7s3.jpg

I guess that makes this now a TT-02RR Type S
247xoAQ.jpg

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, nbTMM said:

What's better than having three TT02 chassis? Four, of course.
EUmX7s3.jpg

I guess that makes this now a TT-02RR Type S
247xoAQ.jpg

That definitely deserves a better set of aluminum dampers. Either TRF or YR Qutus dampers. Those plastic CVA ones are eye sore so please change them. :lol:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All in due time ;). Already feels way better than before, even with the cvas, probably because the standard tt02 suspension has so much friction damping "built in". The type S has very little due to all metal hinge pins, so the cvas are doing all the work :). Makes me want to try retrofitting a standard tt02's lower arms with metal pins, just to see how much it can be improved.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Collin said:

It will be fine then. :)

I'm hoping!

But I agree with your sentiment, have to be very careful what you laser cut. Not only the surface finish, but plastics like polycarbonate give off nasty gases.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

exactly! And some cardboard simply smell like old fish :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Greeeeeen

6862-BBA6-059-B-45-E4-A8-C3-6-D0107-A907

Not quite the green I thought it was, but fun nonetheless. Gonna need some black detailing though!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 Learning a few things on this wobbly test print.  The first drive was drama free!  I managed to peel off the unglued tires in the front, which amused me greatly.
spMQSWY.jpg

Version 2 has a much better way of separating the body panels via the full-scale car's mold.

kq5dyYy.jpg

I'm going to paint the shell and design a pattern for windows/windscreen.  Get all of the learning done on this one, then V2 will be gorgeous.

  • Like 7
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 minutes ago, firefoxussr said:

So the prototype here is going well.  Learning a few things on this wobbly test print.  The first drive was drama free!
spMQSWY.jpg

Version 2 has a much better way of separating the body panels via the full-scale car's mold.

kq5dyYy.jpg

I'm going to paint the shell and design a pattern for windows/windscreen.  Get all of the learning done on this one, then V2 will be gorgeous.

that's looking really good. Given its such an iconic part part of the car, will you try and get the driver side to open?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, yogi-bear said:

that's looking really good. Given its such an iconic part part of the car, will you try and get the driver side to open?

Oh yes, it's in the works.  My ability to separate the pieces is limited, but I am learning.  Here's how I'm thinking of cutting v2.  Going to separate the lights.  Doors too one day.

BKXdn9o.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wired up a £13 sensored ESC in my Manta Ray and shortened the servo wires. Nothing super exciting but it now moves under its own power - cue getting in trouble for tire tracks on the kitchen lino :D

k8f0y76.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, firefoxussr said:

Oh yes, it's in the works.  My ability to separate the pieces is limited, but I am learning.  Here's how I'm thinking of cutting v2.  Going to separate the lights.  Doors too one day.

BKXdn9o.jpg

I'd be keen to see how you print the bonnet area and bumpers, as it looks to me you'd have to print lots of supports. As for getting the doors in one piece, I probably would have gone the easy way and just printed two of the middle section, rough trimming doors out of one and sanding back, vice versa for the roof section. Or the other way to do it if you are keen is to just cut the doors out with some cotton thread, you can get a really thin cut that way, but takes a bit of work.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...