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Drove my Falcon with MSC and 3000mah NiMH battery... Wow, I was not expecting that battery to get so hot!

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After months of mucking about with onroad cars, i realised i hadn't run my thunder dragon for ages. I rectified that on the way home from work. 

20190917_163538

The smaller mounds of grass cuttings proved to be quite good ramps! 

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My "project list" had too many unfinished shells.  

Cutting and applying mask was quite demanding.   

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It occurred to me that I can draw silver from inside.  (Molotow 2mm pen) 

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If it rolls, the stickers might scrape off.  

But the silver underneath it won't be affected.  It's not as shiny on the outside, but still shinier than stickers.  Too uneven to keep it as it is.  I'll probably apply outside decal over the silvers. 

I was able to erase Molotow Chrome with alcohol, which means it's acrylic.  So, PS-62 didn't dissolve Molotow.

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I cut up scrap to mask the gap in the open trunk.  I might paint the gap black, smoke or leave it clear.  

2 layers of orange.  White under orange.  Black under white.  5 layers is a bit overkill, but oh well.   

WtvjhQy.jpg

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44 minutes ago, Juggular said:

It occurred to me that I can draw silver from inside.  (Molotow 2mm pen) 

fgO2XV5.jpg

If it rolls, the stickers might scrape off. 

That looks really good.  I had been debating doing this myself to an NSU TT body.  Nice to know it does work well.

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If I do it again, I might try 1mm marker on the side trim.  2mm was a bit too thick, but the groove was thick too.  

At least, alcohol can erase Molotow quite easily.  

 

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Finished the mostly-sealed tub TT-02 with some custom FRP side trays and some closed cell foam to fill the gaps and make a tight fit to the body. Oh and some stupidly overpowered weatherproof electronics of course (7.5t running sensorless + Hobbywing 8BL150 + 3S). Now i'm waiting for some rain so I can test if it actually works or if it's still just a fast bathtub :rolleyes:

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started to build my nib konghead, I build the gearbox/chassis today, I have put 300.000 silicone oil in the diffs, I am going to use the konghead as a crawler/trail truck but I don't want to lock the diffs.

I know that the konghead have no sealed diffs but the 300.000 is just as thick as chewing gum, I put it in the diffs wait for an hour to see if they leak, but no leaks so I think it wil stay in.

 

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If it does, get diff putty like dynahead uses?

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As Dynamog is basically done I need a little fun project until I can do another proper build, so I thought I'd create another body for the G6-01tr chassis so have ordered a set of Wild Willy parts. Working on the assumption that the wheelbase of Willy roughly equates to the front two pairs of axles then a cut halfway through the rear arch should allow me to extend the body to cover the rear set. I have seen a picture of this somewhere, could even be on this site, just cant find it. Whole lot including Postage from Tamico was £50 and I have a Willy to put in it. Only thing I havent got is a winch cos I just put it on Dynamog.

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2 hours ago, taffer said:

If it does, get diff putty like dynahead uses?

Works well with mine. I might lock the centre diff when it gets its first service and have putty in front and rear. Having the middle wheels in constant motion certainly helps its mobility

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17 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

As Dynamog is basically done I need a little fun project until I can do another proper build, so I thought I'd create another body for the G6-01tr chassis so have ordered a set of Wild Willy parts. Working on the assumption that the wheelbase of Willy roughly equates to the front two pairs of axles then a cut halfway through the rear arch should allow me to extend the body to cover the rear set. I have seen a picture of this somewhere, could even be on this site, just cant find it. Whole lot including Postage from Tamico was £50 and I have a Willy to put in it. Only thing I havent got is a winch cos I just put it on Dynamog.

Would these help?

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957A8DC1-6168-434C-AEC5-E36F55BEE25B.jpg

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More progress with my TB-03

8F0A0A5D-C6D4-4038-BD68-F84EC6587976.jpg

Nearing the end before the dreaded stickering!

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1 hour ago, jupitertwo said:

More progress with my TB-03

8F0A0A5D-C6D4-4038-BD68-F84EC6587976.jpg

Nearing the end before the dreaded stickering!

The red stripes just above the side windows are difficult to do without wrinkling them.  You might try the soapy water trick or work with a hairdryer to get them to conform properly.  When I did my shell a long time ago, I failed and those stripes were always somewhat wrinkled.  The other areas to stress over are the rear wheel arches, and the big "G" decal on the hood won't want to conform to some of the ridges molded into the shell.  The headlight buckets, if you use them, will want to fall off later; use a better tape like a Scotch VHB tape if you want them to stick better.  Or use the headlight decals and skip the buckets.  This was one of the tougher shells I finished; it didn't leave me pleased.  Take your time and read up on soapy water and hairdryers if you don't already know about those techniques.  Lots of luck!  I hope it turns out well for you!  Still one of my favorite Tamiya chassis...

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9 hours ago, speedy_w_beans said:

The red stripes just above the side windows are difficult to do without wrinkling them.  You might try the soapy water trick or work with a hairdryer to get them to conform properly.  When I did my shell a long time ago, I failed and those stripes were always somewhat wrinkled.  The other areas to stress over are the rear wheel arches, and the big "G" decal on the hood won't want to conform to some of the ridges molded into the shell.  The headlight buckets, if you use them, will want to fall off later; use a better tape like a Scotch VHB tape if you want them to stick better.  Or use the headlight decals and skip the buckets.  This was one of the tougher shells I finished; it didn't leave me pleased.  Take your time and read up on soapy water and hairdryers if you don't already know about those techniques.  Lots of luck!  I hope it turns out well for you!  Still one of my favorite Tamiya chassis...

Thanks for the tips, I'll be watching out for those areas specifically. I generally use the soapy water method, I haven't tried the hair dryer in a long time. Light buckets seem to be problem with most shells, I swear there must be a difference between the white and brown sides of the double sided tape :D

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Shaw these decals last week while on eBay and thought their unusual so ordered them along with some tyre decals for the bruiser.

Stuck them on the reefer trailer.:D

 

IMG_20190919_142849.jpg

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2 hours ago, topforcein said:

Shaw these decals last week while on eBay and thought their unusual so ordered them along with some tyre decals for the bruiser.

Stuck them on the reefer trailer.:D

 

IMG_20190919_142849.jpg

Awesome!

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Started on the stickering, and thought I’d finished the M08

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A trip to a local park reminded me that I hadn’t finished the wheels. The rear tyres aren’t glued, and certainly didn’t like staying on too long! I think I’ll want some softer tyres too, not a great deal of grip. 

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Those stickers are perfect on that trailer @topforcein 👍🏻

Its funny how things turn out sometimes, all that agro you had before has lead to these 😎

17 hours ago, topforcein said:

 

IMG_20190919_142849.jpg

 

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4 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

Those stickers are perfect on that trailer @topforcein 👍🏻

Its funny how things turn out sometimes, all that agro you had before has lead to these 😎

 

thanks, i had all but given up on getting some made then i just happened to see them

to me the font is great and the colour is perfect as a match to the paint also.

i am thinking of asking the chap that makes them to make me some more as he is just 5 miles from me witch is a bonus

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Peeled off the protective film. (If that counts as "doing.")  

Strange how Molotow was chrome on the inside, but it's silver on the outside.  It's good enough.   

Masking the gap in the open trunk was a good idea. 

It looks like the trunk is open. (Tamiya should have provided masking for the trunk. There was enough scrap to cut it myself, but it was tricky)  

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I'm not going to mess with black interior anymore. 

Apparently there were areas where 2 layers of orange and 1 layer of white had missed.   

I might use a black marker to draw some trim to cover it up.  

I painted bottom skirts black, and that turned out okay too (though I haven't seen it done in 1:1).   

QGznW4S.jpg

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I've been repairing my TXT-2. One of the ball studs snapped of the axle top gear cover, leaving the threaded portion in the plastic boss. I managed to drill out the remnants and then drill it out to 5mm. Thankfully I still have the original parts sprue. I cut a small length of this of and used some epoxy to hold it in place. Tomorrow I'll drill it out to 2.5mm and reassemble the truck.

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1 hour ago, Juggular said:

Masking the gap in the open trunk was a good idea. 

It looks like the trunk is open. (Tamiya should have provided masking for the trunk. There was enough scrap to cut it myself, but it was tricky)

That looks great. Youve done a good job with the boot lid. Could you not use some paint remover on the wheel arch then mask a bigger area and re spray?

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Started work on the roughest QD shell I’ve ever owned. Before & after pics below, and yes the red patches in the 1st pic are where the previous owner painted around the decals 😳

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Just a crack in roof & rear wing to repair now, along with multiple deep scores in the shell.

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