Motor Magnets All The Same?

[Singapore_959]

This season my buggy series has changed the rules to 23T Tamiya motor with no timing changes. Slower, cheaper

I am wondering if putting a 23T rotor in another tamiya can and endbell would give more power?

Eg. BZ rotor in a Acto Power Black (touring special motor) or Pink (buggz special motor) would do any good?

Hoping some of our hard core racers will know about this.

And any suggestions on a good motor checker tool and supplier? Ebay draws a dud, surprisingly.

Thanks!

[terry.sc]

Firstly not running a 23 turn can is likely to get you disqualified from racing, especially as they don't have the fixed timing required in the rules.

Secondly yes there are differences between magnets, usually the magnets are chosen that work best with the armature that is in the can. Using a can designed for a low wind armature will not be the best choice for the armature, you are better sticking with the original can. You will get better performance by tuning the brushes and springs, the ones that come with the motor will just be basic versions. I have never run any of Tamiyas motors so can't advise on the best brushes and springs to use.

The best dyno around was the Competition Electrics TurboDyno45, but not been around for years.

The best motor dyno you have a chance of getting hold of is a Robitronic Promaster dyno. Gives you a nice graph of the power, torque, revs and current draw of any motor tested on it. Special order only from Robitronic it will set you back around 900.

Easier to get hold of (and a lot cheaper) is the Fantom Facts Machine http://www.fantomracing.com/store/index.html?cat_id=44

Those are proper motor dynos which put a load on the motor so you know exactly what the motor will do in the car.

The are many motor checkers around, such as the ancient Shinwa Motor Dresser or Tekin 900 Dyno, or the new Integy Indi Motor Dyno or Trinity Monster Horsepower Machine. All these will give you though are current draw and speed when it is running free. They put no load on the motor so don't give a true comparison between the dyno readings and what will happen on the track.

[Singapore_959]

Thanks Terry! You always know!!

Really interesting info to learn!

As I am not a fan of the recent Tamiya motors I am interested how to get the best out them this season. I really liked the Orion motors we could use last season. Having spent quite some time over the past few days looking around I am really quite surprised at what little most "motor checkers" around appear to do. They seem to only really tell you current drain, and others spring tension - presumably for some friction vs power transfer ideal balance. And yet they are expensive, stand alone pieces of equipment! Only the Shinwa item looked really useful to me, but now I know it puts no load on.

Since our series sponsoring model shop owner is also the Robitronic distributer here, and is a good friend, I will find out if he wants to pool one, or get a loan of one for his shop for test purposes . Or possibly we could do a day over at Robitronic in Austria as it is only a few hours drive.

Thanks.

From the info gleaned so far, I think I will try a RZ as it has lay down brushes, put in bearings (still can't believe they come without!) and try a whole lot of different brand bushes to see what seems best.

It is not really necessary to cut the comm to bed in the motor is it? I have never done that before, and careful running in has served me well in the past.

Cheers

[Singapore_959]

Yes! Got use of a Robitronic Promaster dyno this weekend!

Will test as many motor, brush, and spring(don't have alot to choose from here) combinations as possible.

So far list will be: BZ, RZ, Type S, will be others too.

If possible time wise:

Orion 19T - last seasons DS motor

Dynatech 01R in Can Am Lola

AYK 600 in my Fantom

Kyosho LeMans 480 gold

Should be interesting!

*cannot find a Tamiya spare or hop up lay down brush set for the RZ. There is none?

[94eg!]

*cannot find a Tamiya spare or hop up lay down brush set for the RZ. There is none?

Tamiya Racing Motor Brush (Laydown Type) #53483

Currently on eBay from Vellrip for only $3.40 (us) + $4.00 postage...

[Singapore_959]

Thanks!

Sharp eyes

[madaz75]

I'm interested in knowing what the results of your Dyno Session were,

if for some chance you're concerned a "competitor" may come across your findings here,

you could PM them to me.

No chance of me "selling out" info... Nor using it against you since I'm on the opposite side of the globe

[Singapore_959]

I'm interested in knowing what the results of your Dyno Session were,

if for some chance you're concerned a "competitor" may come across your findings here,

you could PM them to me.

No chance of me "selling out" info... Nor using it against you since I'm on the opposite side of the globe

ha, , no problem. I posted up in the General forum section that the session was postponed to next weekend - for a rather unique reason! -

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=37872

I will post up the results for all to see. My main competitor is cleary not a Tamiya man and regardless I think its fun and interesting for everybody.

[MAD RACER]

ha, , no problem. I posted up in the General forum section that the session was postponed to next weekend - for a rather unique reason! -

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=37872

I will post up the results for all to see. My main competitor is cleary not a Tamiya man and regardless I think its fun and interesting for everybody.

In all the years a raced electric the best item a came across is the trinity motor hood alignment bar. It does all brushes except oval ones.

It aligns the brushes togeather and to the center of the magnetic field with the center pole it comes with.

It always gave a better result on the dyno and on the track. They aren't to expensive and does lay down, standard and p94 brushes.

[Grahoo]

Hi,

The supplier of Acto-power motors has already gone bankrupt, so please never forget every Acto-powers has fatal cooling problems if you change genuine rotor into other.

TZ, BZ and RZ are using just same cans and magnets. I think so.

but stopper rings are different material and only stand-up brush version has a steel ring.

and it seem steel ring give much torque as you know.

By the way,

I chose RZ as training motor. (because I love its red graphic.) but it became soon a junk.

first, I had to disassemble also junk TZ to transplant its brush holders.

After assembled I shaved endbell's nipple, and my RZ changed adjustable.

Of course I changed also a couple of its metal bearings to ball bearings.

Last Sunday, I cleaned commutators of various used rotor which came from my junk yard up by lathe, to put into my excentric RZ.

After all, my RZ has adjustable endbell and stand-up brush,

and 12T-rotor inside.

I could get new motor in totally cheap and it's my personal Tamiya Ecology Movement too.

[94eg!]

Hi,

The supplier of Acto-power motors has already gone bankrupt, so please never forget every Acto-powers has fatal cooling problems if you change genuine rotor into other.

Can you elaborate on this? I was planning on running a new 53125 Acto Power 2WD "pink" motor in my Dyna Storm with CPR-unit P160F. I already killed my Dyna Storm "kit-version" pink motor, and I don't want to pry it apart to try to fix it (sealed can). What do you think?

[Singapore_959]

Can you elaborate on this? I was planning on running a new 53125 Acto Power 2WD "pink" motor in my Dyna Storm with CPR-unit P160F. I already killed my Dyna Storm "kit-version" pink motor, and I don't want to pry it apart to try to fix it (sealed can). What do you think?

You CAN rebuild the pink DS kit motor. I have done it and it is straight forward.

If you use this motor alot in dusty or thread filled (ie carpet) environments, the brushes die very quickly. I thought my esc had gone twice infact when it happened to me.

You can use TZ/BZ replacement brushes. I don't know if its perfect, but it ran fine for me with these replacements.

[94eg!]

You CAN rebuild the pink DS kit motor. I have done it and it is straight forward.

If you use this motor alot in dusty or thread filled (ie carpet) environments, the brushes die very quickly. I thought my esc had gone twice infact when it happened to me.

You can use TZ/BZ replacement brushes. I don't know if its perfect, but it ran fine for me with these replacements.

How do you pry out the metal tabs holding the end-bell on? Are the tabs any good to reinstall the end-bell? If not, how do you hold the end-bell on?

[Grahoo]

How do you pry out the metal tabs holding the end-bell on? Are the tabs any good to reinstall the end-bell? If not, how do you hold the end-bell on?

If you remove its brushes and strike the rotor-shaft from front-bell side by the hammer, you can remove its end-bell easily.

It is not a joke.

And after replace your rotor and assembled them, please strike again both tubs of can and fix end-bell carefully.

Please try, it is very easy!!

[94eg!]

Thanks Grahoo, but I have 1 questions:

- When you say "replace the rotor", does that mean replace it with a new one because the comm is damaged? I ask because I can easily true the commutator with my motor lathe...

Also, does anybody know what size bearings to use to replace the bushings?

[Singapore_959]

Thanks Grahoo, but I have 1 questions:

- When you say "replace the rotor", does that mean replace it with a new one because the comm is damaged? I ask because I can easily true the commutator with my motor lathe...

Also, does anybody know what size bearings to use to replace the bushings?

They are std motor bearings, any r/c shop should stock them.

I simply bent of the tabs with a thin flathead screwdriver. Was easy, and put it back the same way. I used replacement racing brushes pack - the one made for the TZ, BZ motor.