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Posted

Hi-

Great site - first post - been lurking for a while. Been in RC for about 25 years.

I have acquired a NIB Wild Willy 1 with the exception that the body parts were painted with automotive paint.

I searched 11 pages worth and could not find a straight answer to my particular question. Is it possible to strip automotive type paint without damaging the original '80's body? The paint is nice, but I think I want a different paint scheme. It is now painted deep cherry red. The body was not primed prior to laying down the paint. I do not want to damage the body at all.

I have been reading this site for quite some time, and have used many tips, particularly painting tips, to finish my VLB, Grasshopper, and Hi-Lift. ShoDog's Hi-Lift painting tutorial is saved in My Documents, and it really helped me with a very nice Hi-Lift job.

Thanks for any info/help.

Posted
Hi-

Great site - first post - been lurking for a while. Been in RC for about 25 years.

I have acquired a NIB Wild Willy 1 with the exception that the body parts were painted with automotive paint.

I searched 11 pages worth and could not find a straight answer to my particular question. Is it possible to strip automotive type paint without damaging the original '80's body? The paint is nice, but I think I want a different paint scheme. It is now painted deep cherry red. The body was not primed prior to laying down the paint. I do not want to damage the body at all.

I have been reading this site for quite some time, and have used many tips, particularly painting tips, to finish my VLB, Grasshopper, and Hi-Lift. ShoDog's Hi-Lift painting tutorial is saved in My Documents, and it really helped me with a very nice Hi-Lift job.

Thanks for any info/help.

foam spray on oven cleaner, sitting in the oven for 3 days with repeated sray ons? I used 2 cans.

See the bruiser in my showroom for an example.

Posted

There should be many posts on this topic out there....

When I stripped the paint from my Wild Willy body I used oven cleaner. I tried a few brands, but found that "Easy OFF oven cleaner" in the red can worked best for me. I also found that anything that said "NON Caustic" may as well had "It will not work" written on the can.

In a shaded, well ventilated area, spray the oven cleaner on and leave it sit for an hour or so. Then using a toothbrush, give it a scrub, and then rince under water. Repeat the process until all paint is removed. Times will vary depending on the paint and oven cleaner used, and also, dont forget to wear your PPE (see safety instructions on the can), it is caustic and will burn skin and eyes on contact.

I have not tried this method, but some members have had sucess with soaking the parts in automotive brake fluid.....

Cheers

Posted

Make sure you buy the RED/CAUSTIC version of EasyOff, not the greenie softie version which does nothing to paint.

Unlikely its auto 2-pack as usually you'd need to stick it into the bakeoven to get a good finish - it'll melt the plastic.

(we had plastic bits on an old english car melt too, whilst it was getting painted in the bakeoven)

If you're trying to make your NIB kit whole again, could just buy another set of bodyparts... they're not too

crazily expensive all things considered. The WW2 took a big edge off the crazy prices of yore.

Posted
WillyChang you are saying it's unlikely epoxy paint on our models, because those paint type needs to be baked?

Hmm... may be there's still hope in stripping paint off my mounty. :blink:

from what (little) i know, 2-pack auto paint won't be done "at home" because

its poisonous enough to require breathing apparatus to use it.

And if its been done at a pro paintshop, they probably paint it in their full booth anyways.

(so they're not mutually inclusive)

Got a shell done in Toyota Blue autopaint which is supposedly the right colour for the model year.

The paint looks a little more "plasticky" than normal, not as shiny as it don't have clearcoat.

But it buffs up real well using a cut-n-polish wax.

  • 8 months later...
Posted

you can try reactivating the paint using premium thinner from anywhere that sells 2k automotive paints, a few wipes and it should come off

Posted
from what (little) i know, 2-pack auto paint won't be done "at home" because

its poisonous enough to require breathing apparatus to use it.

And if its been done at a pro paintshop, they probably paint it in their full booth anyways.

(so they're not mutually inclusive)

Got a shell done in Toyota Blue autopaint which is supposedly the right colour for the model year.

The paint looks a little more "plasticky" than normal, not as shiny as it don't have clearcoat.

But it buffs up real well using a cut-n-polish wax.

you can use 2k at home you just need a compressor, spay gun and a respirator brought for 20. t

he booth is an aria away from were the sanding work is being done it also sucks out the fumes and paint dust so that it wont settle on the wet paint

Posted

Automotive paint can be tough stuff. I have a ww2 body painted with auto paint I have been trying to strip and it isn't going so well. One thing that helps the stripper is to slighty scuff the surface of the paint. this knocks the hard shiny surface off and allows the easy off to penetrate it.

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