Wrc action 0 Posted February 3, 2008 Well I had a quick offer up with the prop from dads CC-01 Landy and figured that an XC pajero length one should be good for the front and lookin in my highlift manual I reckon that a stock highlift one should be about right for the rear. Do you av any spare props? Cheers Ryck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blakeatron 16 Posted February 3, 2008 Yeah ive got a spare set of rc4wd punisher shafts that i bought for a 350 project but didn't use - they go quite long tho so might do it! They are at work so i will dig them out and give them a measure if you want? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wrc action 0 Posted February 3, 2008 that would be superb, Just dnt let ure apprentice loose with it or I will get it measured as a fraction of a roll of parcel tap cheers Ryck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wrc action 0 Posted March 15, 2008 I seen some of them parts somewhere before!Looking very good ryck, hope its a runner soon - come on pull your finger out! Well your in luck, had some time and parts to add today so think its time for another update, thats if you lot are still reading my posts :L Right starting off in chronological order to what I have done is the shortening of the rear prop shaft, this was done by removing one of the caps by litterally pealing it off, then cutting down the shaft before drilling a new hole, putting the pin back in and then re-attaching the cover and securing it back in place by shaping it and using some heavy duty tape, this "weaker" end of the shaft will be the one placed placed up on the gearbox out of the way of any damage (hopefully) Next I put in the shift servo, due to my raised gearbox I have had to mount the servo the other way up from the kit option and I have used a mixture of links with a 3mm shaft and bored out 2mm ball stud connector at the gearbox end. I have also had to add some guide posts to make sure that the shift is smooth and consistent and works within the shift gates of my transmitter. Next I added in my radio gear and a test ESC the stock TEU-101Bk, a big thanks here to Rich (Biggusditchus) for my nice 2nd hand acoms set that is working perfectly and will also control my knight hauler once that is finished. To conclude I screwed in my spacer and front drive shaft, a Big thanks here to Gareth from dads work who was able to make the spacer rods that moved the driveshaft outup forward and allowed me to keep the stock highlift shaft unaltered. as you can see I have managed though raising my gearbox to get a great deal more clearance in the middle of the chassis than expected that really helps when tranversing peaked obsticles. Best Wishes Ryck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blakeatron 16 Posted March 15, 2008 thats better ryck - is it running yet, if so hows it performing? so what in those mercedes tubs? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wrc action 0 Posted March 15, 2008 Yep running up and down the hallway and all over my tool boxes including those cans. Results are very promising so far, no problems so far with grounding in the middle, Speed wise I think i might need to look at a slightly larger pinion in order to get the kinda overall speeds that I want, Been thinking about 2.2's but I will need to re-design the rear box section over the rear wheels to do that. Have losened up the screws mounting the tops of the shock the suspension has become much more supple tho I think I will need to get some stronger shocks to make it go back upto full height and to cope with the extra weight over a stock hightlift epically on the rear end. ow and those merc tubs contain a variety of parts and tools. they contained the complimentary travel sweets when we get the car serviced each time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wrc action 0 Posted March 27, 2008 Right an update is due over the last few days I have been trimming and painting the next batch of pannels, Still using the Blue Halfords paint I have decided against using the undecoat this time as I feel the result was to dark and also that I couldnt be bothered. the result I think is better and frankly the consistency of the coat no different so from now on the primer is out and just 3 coats of halfords :L Still what use are panels without the screws so today I went to a local trade counter in Blackpole to get 100 threaded screws for the final sum of 7.50 including the goverments 1.11 slice :@ meaning that I could now get to work on attaching my new panels and finally make this look like a proper truck. The first panel to go on was the roof panel. 9 screws later and it was secured. I worked from one end to the other in order to make sure that there was no miss alignments which can happen if you drill all the holes at once because the plates can slip when you change drilling holes. the roof pannel is a much thinner material around 0.5mm compared to the side doors and sills which are 1.25 mm plasticard. This was partly due to weight and also wat came in my latest bundle of plasticard. Also sorted out before the roof went on was the radio gear, A big thankyou here to Tipsy (Paul Gee) for a superb deal on an Lrp no limit F1 reverse esc that is just perfect with a smooth and stable powerflow and full reverse unlike those nasty mtronicks viper ones :L I have mounted the radio gear highup on the back wall some 8 inches of the ground and out of splash range. This is because should I have boxed them up like before I would have had very limited room on the base of the support truck for spares as well as having to compromise the batteries position. Finally in there present position I will drown both the shift servo under the cab followed by the steering servo and the battery/motor before my esc or reciever cops it so I think I will be ok :L In order to reach the battery which I will talk about later I needed to make an extension lead this was made from an old battery cable from a set of disused cells and is just the right length as well as potentially being transferable to future kits. The next stage that I did was to attach the side panels and flashing for the opening doors, The side skirts are borrowed my previous CC-01 based support truck tho this time I have done away with the brackets and am mounting them straight to the box section with a screw and nut which also travels through the flashing on the other side, A nice intergrated solution this was repeated on both side with holes in identical places left to right thanks to inititially drilling the side skirts at the same time one ontop of each other. My next task was to attach the opening side access doors. These are both the side panels from the old CC-01 truck and have been cut to size and are attached using a pair of hines each. they sit flush with the flashing on the front and the bottom and soon the rear. I will be working on a more accurate pinned holding method but for now its just a simple piece of velcro in the corner to keep the doors closed when running. The front and rear wheel arches are also beginning to take shape tho rough. I will therefore soon be looking to get some tamiya wheel arches to smooth them off even if it is simply applying the facias. The rear also needs some rear skirting to be added again this will most likely be what I made for my previous CC-01 support truck. Now back to the battery situation having moved the radio gear up onto the front sidewall of the rear box section I have much more space and freedom to mount the battery in the best possible manner. So I have decided to mount the battery laterally in the middle allowing for optimum weight distribution and also easy changes of battery, The question now what to put it in and thats when i spotted the holder for the tile spacers that my parents are going to use on redoing some tiles in the house. Ooo they do have a use so after a little bargaining and trading one of my pots I had the perfect sized pot to take my battery. Unfortinately the lid being made of some naffo plastic broke upon its removal so I have simply a tub, but this was easily added and with a few straps accross the top should keep my battery nice and secure in the back of the car as well as being splash proof much more than the normal tamiya tractor truck/highlift style battery holder. I secured it onto the back panel using slightly longer mount screws so both the panel and tub are now mounted on the same screws saving overall parts as well as weight and complexity. Finally I charged a pack and headed to a little spring stream at the bottom of the green where I live for a bit off off road action with a few rocks and muddy sections thrown in and It copped very well, First gear has plenty of torque but not really enough top end and and 3rd is a bit gutless due to the weight of the truck so far. I think a more powerful motor is definately in order but thats in the future. The locked front and rear axles give it superb off road manouverability and its suprisingly tight turning circle made it highly manouverable. However I think the tyres where letting it down a little as there was one double slope section that I couldnt get up, perhaps take a pic to show u trial people :L its not a big section buts its very slippery and slidey clay :L Still some pics of that another time until then a quick set showing the machines present state as it stands today. Take care Ryck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wrc action 0 Posted March 29, 2008 On the subject of rear arches does anyone have the dimensions for the rear arches to the tractor trucks - Scania highline - Mercedes 1938L - Volvo Globetrotter. Cheers Ryck - @blakeatron where are your normal words of "wisdom"? my thread is looking bare now Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tamiya King 1 Posted March 30, 2008 WOW! You have changed it so much from when you began! Looking good so far! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wrc action 0 Posted April 7, 2008 Thankyou for your comment Tamiya King, Done a bit more running and its clear that the steering isnt quite upto the task both in link system and the servo, Does anyone have any ideas/tips/recormendations that could allow me to tighten it up and make it a little more "direct" as well as able to rotate when the truck is at a standstill. What servo do you guys use in your highlifts? Cheers Ryck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blakeatron 16 Posted April 7, 2008 On the subject of rear arches does anyone have the dimensions for the rear arches to the tractor trucks - Scania highline - Mercedes 1938L - Volvo Globetrotter. Cheers Ryck - @blakeatron where are your normal words of "wisdom"? my thread is looking bare now Sorry young man been busy erecting fences, stupid wife I sir have a scania - so which dimension would you like? The internal arch on the rear wheel is approx 4/3rds a roll of masking tape (88mm).... Although some custom flares would be sweet (dready has some skills making these - and giving tips) As for steering scrap that rubbish stock set up and mount your steer servo next to the shift (if its still up front) with a bit of bodgeing it all fits and works, and removes most of the play, im using standard acoms & futaba in mine and they work no probs. My only concern at the moment is the front archs look a bit makeshift - i am sure you will attend to this though.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wrc action 0 Posted April 7, 2008 Sorry young man been busy erecting fences, stupid wife Ok I will let you off this time, Old Man lol Right what I could do with is the width at the widest point internally as well as the internal height so I can see if it will fit in its entirety, if not then i will just need to cut the facias off and glue that on as it would be a purely athetic item and therefore be pretty pointless in my opinion but has to be done :L I think I shall go and try that, tho I not sure if there is room left as i think my shift servo is in the middle in order to get the right stroke on it, Does anyone have a spare servo saver for the shift servo or the steering servo? My only concern at the moment is the front archs look a bit makeshift - i am sure you will attend to this though.... Yes I havent really started on the cosmetics yet as you can see I still have panels and mechanisms to add all over the place. Also thinking about better tyres espically for the muddy stuff as well as fitting a winch in the front part, However there would no longer be any room with the moving of the steering servo. hmmm ........... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blakeatron 16 Posted April 7, 2008 i dont think the 1/14's will work - there isn't a lot of room inside them. If i were you i would do a custom job - and you've saved the cash of trying to buy the archs! Is the trans where it would be in a 350? if so just put it to one side, the shift works fine on an angle. Or put the shift ball on the back of the shift rod and mount the shift servo behind the trans I dont want to hear your excuses about not having any time - i went to school and i had loads of spare time (spent mostly in pubs and with women...) but you have a much more pressing project And yep feeling very old at the moment! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pagedm_f350 3 Posted April 7, 2008 I love your truck wrc action, I love your passion for all things rally! Keep it up. Daniel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wrc action 0 Posted May 10, 2008 A little update and perhaps some pictures later, just for you blakeatron Done most of the paneling now for the whole truck just the wheel arches and wheels to sort out now which I am going to wait on until I get some 1.9 inch rock stompers as the present highlift tyres just arent cutting it when it gets boggy out there the shift servo has been refined again tho it still needs to sit in the middle as Im running a long shift back to my gearbox that is 20mm further back than the normal box in order to bring it up without needing to take the back of the cab out as these bruder cabs are very well built. stronger than the tamiya ones for definate I would say. I took it out for a run yesterday and unfortinately suceeded in snapping off the rear bevel gear into the axle leaving me with only 2wd it did however highlight the lack of weight over the front end in carrying on with 2wd so I think i shall need to move some stuff fwd. On a lighter note does anyone have any experiance with RC winches as I feel like using my 4th channel for something constructive regards Ryck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wrc action 0 Posted May 10, 2008 And now the pictures Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
minivtec 0 Posted May 10, 2008 ryck that is truely brilliant great work Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wrc action 0 Posted May 11, 2008 ryck that is truely brilliant great work Cheers Its taken a long time to get here but its looking good - Does anyone have any ideas on the wheel arches? Cheers Ryck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blakeatron 16 Posted May 11, 2008 Sorry Ryck, not sure if you got message but no spare bevels! Looking good - how about some 3 or 6mm mdf cut to shape, painted and stuck on? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wrc action 0 Posted May 13, 2008 Sorry Ryck, not sure if you got message but no spare bevels!Looking good - how about some 3 or 6mm mdf cut to shape, painted and stuck on? Yes I did get it thanks andy, and dont worry I have ordered 2 hardened ones from Rc4wd along with some rock stomper 1.9 tyres which should give me an extra edge off road, tho I might well need to expand the rear arches. Yeah sounds like a good idea. perhaps put a little profile on it. How are your projects progressing? Best Wishes Ryck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wrc action 0 Posted May 17, 2008 Well thanks to a tip off about RC4wd having hardened TLT bevel gears I now have some nice shiny new bevel gears, 1 for the rear axle and 1 spare (just in case) as well as some rock stompers that I have had my eye on for some time. they are like the mother of 1.9 inch tyres and dwarf the high lift tyre which means they do just the trick in filling arches as seen below on there temporary rims until I source some more - realistic ones. Im going to need to enlarge the rear arch vertically by removing some of the aluminum bar and then adding a costmetic arch like Blakeatron keeps going on about in order to disguise my doctoring lol. I have also adjusted the rear leafs by taking out the smallest leaf plate so they are now a medium stiffness and it appears to have worked as the machine was much more stable on a little test run up the road despite the softer tyres is roled and wallowed like I would have expected rather than just pitching over. the larger diameter has also really broken through the next speed barrier and its much more satifying a machine to watch. I have also revised the steering system by moving the servo upfront into the front right wheel arch which has resulted in the use of only 2 links for the front steering those being the link one behind the axle and a custom made hook shaped one that like the highlift threads on top of the axle from one side to the other. The servo is a little exposed and could well get covered in the pervierbiable so Im pretty sure I will replace it in short time with one of the new traxxas waterproof ones that I have been hearing good reports about. This should also give the machine a much needed boost in terms of steering power The photo just shows the mount position which was possible due to my gearbox sitting further back than it originally would have been. Any more pictures or comments are more than welcome as well as ideas as to how I could re-create these wheels. Im thinking perhaps those from the new box freezer trailer as they are 26mm wide 1.9inch rims if I am not mistaken? Best Wishes Ryck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blakeatron 16 Posted May 17, 2008 looking good ryck - dready made some wheel covers like that from old loo cleaner bottles... my projects are for sale (well some of them) - saving for a motorbike! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wrc action 0 Posted May 24, 2008 I would qoute the stephen fry joke from when he was on top gear about motorbikes, But I dont think it is in that gooder taste :L Well I have sprayed the wheels black now and Im going to add like a ring around them screwed on with the normal screws of mine in order to disguise there touareg roots :L Im also planning to add the long awaited arches soon, Just for you lol. Also took it for another test run this time until the front prop shaft came off :L and not having the allen key at hand I was forced to withdraw. It ran very well tho and easily charged flat out through 3 inches of muddy water as well as making it up the tight path that defeated it last time! Cheers Ryck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wrc action 0 Posted June 15, 2008 Right Guys, another little update here, I had the front diff apart today in order to remove the diff lock and hopefully stop it crabbing so much on the slow sections (very unrealistic) I also found it not to be ball raced the shame so that has now been done and the rear one will need to come apart as well shortly in order to do the same and perhaps take the diff lock out of there as well - Opinions anyone? I also re-aligned the steering again, this time with a straight rod instead of a curved one like on the highlift kit and what a difference the steering is now so much more direct and even from side to side, tho I reckon that it would be even smoother and tighter if the rear diff was unlocked, But then there becomes the issue of off road performance. I think that I do need a larger servo tho perhaps the waterproof one from traxxas in order to maximise the steering along with a proper servo saver that would hopefully not flex quite as much :L The Above picture shows the new alignment, I also removed one of the front leafs so its just the main and one large one which seems to have made yet more improvement at slow speeds over obsticles tho this is offset by the now loose front diff. hopefully more updates soon guys and maybe a beach run Cheers Ryck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Swarm 242 Posted June 15, 2008 I like your Dakar Rally truck mate the job to convert it must have been a long a tedious one but well worth it by the looks of it .My next project is a Rally truck and car prob Red Bull I have been thinking about it and the real Dakar rally support vehicles have seats for downed dirvers behind the driving compartment(Iam still trying to solve that prob) .Have you watched Charlie Borman Race to Dakar ? it shows you on several shots the support vehicle and the interior where everybody sits and the containers of food and drink under each seat and inside the support vehicle itself Tools,Tires,Workbenches,Welder basically a house and mechanics workshop on wheels its a good dvd to get if you want an insight into the rally vehicle . I will definatly use your build as a guide as it looks great luv the everything you have done .Exc Job Cheers Stuart Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
