Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

good upgrades are ball bearings and if it already hasnt got one, a propper esc to replace the rubbish combined esc reciever thing.

Thanks

Posted

ahh yipee my field of expertize.

ok first off get bearings and a alu tamiya shaft or carbon GPM shaft. these make the car faster and longer battery life.

next upgrade the dampers and springs to oil filled and springs to the most appropirate (i.e. hard road, racing etc.)

Diffs you can keep stock no need to install one ways unlesss you plan on racing.

The stabilizer bars are not as needed,

The carbon top plate makes a difference to rigidity but youll only see this difference is you race timed or you are a pro drifter. (tt01 is a rocking drifter by the way)

If fitting a different motor make sure you get a metal motor mount as it has two purposes,1. cools the motor slightly, 2. metal doesnt melt!!!

The stock esc/ cpr unit (the unit you got which houses the teu101 and receiver is a good esc and will run 27 turn stock motors easily and even 23 turn super stock motors. maby mod it with a heatsinc or replace with a better one (but dont discard that cpr unit, youll use/need it one day).

Make sure you fit a decent heatsinc to the motor if your running strange gearing or a hopped up motor.

the 58 spur and 23 pinion gearing ratio makes for good speed and accel on a tz/rz/bz motor.

One thing i would recommend you do is buy as much hop ups as possible and then fit them all same time to the car.

tt01's chassis strip very easily and if you strip the bottom holeswith the bottom gearbox holder then your in for trouble also the holes which fit the gear cover is also very prone to stripping so use tamiya thread lock on those.

A good but not nessacary hop up would be to get GPM front uprights (hub) because the tt01's snap always at the wrong time.

Any more help just ask.

Posted

thanks for the advice, ive fitted metal ballraces, always my first job, ive already fitted a lrp ai pro 10t limit esc, along with a yokohoma 13t pro stock 2 motor with a 3racing heatsink, running stock gearing 19/61 would this motor suite the stock gearing, are am i heading for trouble. ive just ordered an upgrade prop shaft, oil shocks and metal motor mount. ive just rushed to get a on-roader for the up coming wrexham meet on sunday so didnt have much time to get upgrades. do you think i will damage anything with my setup for the day.

Posted

Mark, You might just need to play with the gearing a little thats all. The Motor should rev quite a bit, and if its overgeared it will feel sluggish as badword. the larger the spur gear the better for a lowish turn motor.

Have fun on Sunday :rolleyes:

Posted

ok big problem.... huge problem.... be ready to have your race stopped prematurely.

the plastic shaft will come out. i have lost plastic shafts due to bending/flex with a stock 27 co27/p2k2 so that has to be upgraded before you go race.

stock gearing will make it a bit slow on the straights, but as i said "HEED MY WARNING" the chassis screw holes stirp very easily thus you cant open it every day to change parts.

get the gears and fit 23/58 or similar, once and try not to do it too many times.

metal motor mount? that motor is gonna get really hot thus you might melt the mount in one race....

the stuff you need before sunday would be

metal motor mount and a alu shaft these are not debatable.

Posted
thanks for that all, going to have to find a upgrade motor mount and prop shaft before sunday, thanks alot everyone.

It would probably be best to get a quality aftermarket Aluminum motor mount. The Tamiya one is very heavy steel painted silver to look like Aluminum. I didn't know this until after my brother got one for his Rising Storm..

Posted
It would probably be best to get a quality aftermarket Aluminum motor mount. The Tamiya one is very heavy steel painted silver to look like Aluminum. I didn't know this until after my brother got one for his Rising Storm..

the tamiya one is still light compared to the plastic stock one and rigid, thats the only thing you want and it fits first time. a lot of aftermarket manufacturers dont produce to perfect spec thus meaning sometimes it fits perfectly sometimes not. GPM has this problem sometimes, although i got a gpm carbon shaft and it goes like a dream.

i have had the tamiya shaft and it work a charm so dont worry.

21012007162.jpg

Posted
that looks great, i think i might spend a little more money on this one. cheers

yeah that cost me a pretty penny but not all of its nessasary.

shes now a shelf queen.

what i got on that car is:

carbon shaft

alu steering

read diff cover and shock towers

front alu hub and lower arms

rear alu hub and lower arms

titanium mid shaft set

alu battery holder and cooler

metal motor mount

copper front arm balls links

tamiya heatsinc

tamiya carbon upper brace

any more but i cant remeber and those are michelin pilot tyres.

Posted

dude its the 3racing carbon chassis. dont even bother.

on a tt01 the cost is too high for the little performance youll gain.

with that money rather buy a stock ta05 which will rape your tt01 around a track.

its a cool idea, but the pricing fails it. there is a company who makes carbon goodies for the tt01 like carbon shock towers and tower stabalisers and gearbox holders (the part on the bottom of the chassis which holds the diff in place), really cool stuff, but mostly useless.

if you wanna save weight, get a dremel and remove a slight amount of plastic around the tub. not too much as the chassis will flex alot and weight ratio might go out the door.

Posted

well did'nt get the upgrades before sunday so went with stock motor and gearing, was ok on the track, but boy was it slow down the straights, so will rectify that for next time, going with sugested, 58t spur, 23t pinion, metal motor mount, alum prop, 13t motor and 19t limit esc, already ballraced. should be a different animal next meet. thanks for all your advice.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
well did'nt get the upgrades before sunday so went with stock motor and gearing, was ok on the track, but boy was it slow down the straights, so will rectify that for next time, going with sugested, 58t spur, 23t pinion, metal motor mount, alum prop, 13t motor and 19t limit esc, already ballraced. should be a different animal next meet. thanks for all your advice.

If you're running a 13T motor, surely you'll not be using a 19T limit esc?

You should go lower on the esc Turn limit than the motor :rolleyes:

Posted
If you're running a 13T motor, surely you'll not be using a 19T limit esc?

You should go lower on the esc Turn limit than the motor :rolleyes:

**** i didnt even notice that.....

ok just get a novak gtx ESC

Posted
"HEED MY WARNING" the chassis screw holes stirp very easily thus you cant open it every day to change parts.

The chassis strips WAY too easily. I complained to Tamiya USA about this and they are going to send me a replacement chassis when they are back in stock. They said something about the new chassis coming from japan addresses the problem. Right now the Chassis is "out of stock" on their site, maybe enough people complained and the chassis that are on the boat from Japan have addressed this issue.

You may want to give Tamiya a call in your region to see what they can do for you.

Posted
The chassis strips WAY too easily. I complained to Tamiya USA about this and they are going to send me a replacement chassis when they are back in stock. They said something about the new chassis coming from japan addresses the problem. Right now the Chassis is "out of stock" on their site, maybe enough people complained and the chassis that are on the boat from Japan have addressed this issue.

You may want to give Tamiya a call in your region to see what they can do for you.

unless it becomes fibre reinforced itll always strip, teh plastic needs some give and the cant harder it without losing the give factor.

i think the tt01 is way past its life in any case and they are more thatn likely working on a replacment.

just be carefull with the tub, thats all and use the tamiya thread locker that stuff makes a difference because if you dont tighten it too much then the thread locker will save you but

Posted
unless it becomes fibre reinforced itll always strip, teh plastic needs some give and the cant harder it without losing the give factor.

i think the tt01 is way past its life in any case and they are more thatn likely working on a replacment.

just be carefull with the tub, thats all and use the tamiya thread locker that stuff makes a difference because if you dont tighten it too much then the thread locker will save you but

Funny, I asked the same question and the Tamiya tech basically said the TT-01 is still "mid life" and isn't due for a replacement for "a long while"

I'm not sure how they will make it better, but I'll be sure to post here on how easily or not easily the new one they send me strips.

Posted
Funny, I asked the same question and the Tamiya tech basically said the TT-01 is still "mid life" and isn't due for a replacement for "a long while"

I'm not sure how they will make it better, but I'll be sure to post here on how easily or not easily the new one they send me strips.

with cars like the HPI e10 coming out, which is convertable between different motor setups, i think (me perosnally) the tt01 has had a good run and will be either "face lifted" or replaced.

maybe theyll give it a flat chassis, not as much the tub and mod it to have a few more setup options.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recent Status Updates

×
×
  • Create New...