Body - Painting

[Broem-Broem 0]

I need some help

I just bought a TT-01 ferrari enzo with a unpainted body only i have never painted a body before. So does anyone has some tips or knows some handy stuff about painting body's

Thomas

[Vroem-Vroem 0]

I think it is first paint, then cut the body out...

-mattijn

BTW: The name is allmost the same, but the person isn't

[yannick 0]

I always cut out the body first to prevent making a scratch in my paint. but if you work with 2 colours be careful.

like when you have a white car with black hood...when the body is cut out before you must be careful that the black doesn't get on the outside of the car, the white.

and good luck with the car. show us some pics when it's finished.

which color are you going to paint it in?

[Broem-Broem 0]

Im painting it ferrari red. and just one color

sooo its first cutting it and then painting??

[ideal2k 3]

Broem:

These new shells come with a layer of see-through plastic on the outside, so that you will not get paint-dust on the outside of the body.

This is what I do:

First, cut body. Then I use sand paper #80 grind to smooth the edges around the wheel-arches and other places I have cut, so that the body doesn't crack if you crash the car into something.

Then, wash body in lukewarm water with regular green dishwashing-liquid.

Dry body off using tissue paper.

Mask windows (inside body!) using masking tape.

Spray (inside body!) with Tamiya PS spray can, first thin layer - then second thin layer, then third a bit thicker layer. Then remove window mask, and the see-through plastic from outside of body.

You are then ready to place stickers and decals on body.

[yannick 0]

that's how I work...

maybe someone else has some more tips?

[Mervyn 1]

Pretty much the same here except I always "scuff" up the inside of the body with an s.o.s. pad. The paint sticks really well especially if you plan on racing where contact with others or objects is inevitable. Rule 1 is always wash and dry the inside of the shell and make sure when you dry it,you leave no lint behind. I also after the first thin coat,heat the outside of the shell with a hair blower. Helps the paint to cure to the body a bit better-I think. Years ago when the frog first came out and that was my first lexan experiance,one of the magazines suggested the sos pad and hair dryer,and I have used that program ever since,with good results.[8D]

[jozza 1]

Only caution with roughing up the inside of Lexan, is don't do it if you are painting with one of those chrome paints; the scuffing will show through. Also, make sure you don't scratch where the windows or lights will be! (I've seen that done by mistake a few times).

I have scuffed some shells, not scuffed others, and not noticed any difference between the strength. So nowadays I don't bother scuffing the shell up.

Some tips I've picked up over the past year and a bit (I've painted 30+ Lexan shells now, some for me, some for others):-

• The first coat of paint you put on should be really thin. It should hardly show on the shell. This serves to seal the edges of the masked areas and avoid paint bleeding under the masking tape.
  
• Lots of thin coats is better than a couple of thick ones.
  
• A tack-cloth is quite handy for making sure there is no dust inside the shell before painting. These are impregnated with tacky stuff which lifts all traces of dust, but leaves no trace of residue. They are designed for using between coats of paint on real cars.
  
• Make sure it's not a damp day when you do your painting.
  
• If you are holding the bodyshell whilst painting, be careful not to let your thumbs/fingers hold where paint is going to go. I've done this before and in cold weather, the heat from your digits will cause the paint to move away from them, leaving an unsightly blob
  
• Get a good quality mask. (One designed for vapours/painting, not just a normal dust mask).
  
• Once you've finished painting, leave the shell for a week or so before using it on the car. This gives the paint a good long time to form a bond with the Lexan (particularly important if you are using acrylic paints like Faskolor).
  
• Practice! Each shell you paint will come out better than the last
  

There's probably a million and one other bits of advice, but I found the practice was the best. I always have some old plastic drink bottles and other plastic containers for cakes etc to hand, and practice new techniques on them; it's a lot cheaper than practicing on bodyshells!

[sub_sea 0]

does anyone know how to fit lights to the inside of a lexen shell. i have the leds and wires etc but dont know how to mount them. if anyone does please email to sub_sea20@hotmail.com

[SubaruBrattJunkie 1]

Clear silicone works well. You can make L brackets out of pop bottles and silicone them in place. Do not use CA on lexan as it will surely foul your paint. A blob of clear GE silicone will hold the lights in place and hold the wires to the shell. It makes it so the vibration doesn't knock them lose. Solder everything together and use shrink to make good connections.

[jimbo858 0]

So, what does everyone use to paint the details on a lexan body? 

I asked the owner at our LHS and he said nail polish or a good quality

enamel? What do you all do?  I'm planning on painting just some of

the details of my Parma PSE Beetle body.

[DJTheo 2]

I usually use Tamiya PC or Pactra paint bottles with a brush.

Cheers

[Drewboyaus 0]

I usually use Tamiya PC or Pactra paint bottles with a brush.

Cheers

For sure...and if you wanna be realy tricky, paint them on the inside before adding the final colour so they don't scuff off.  'Takes practise but looks great!